my996

On the first pic, taken of the front pads, are these the pistons from the calipers? Mine were stuck to the pads. Is that normal? Should I reuse them or get new pistons?

On the second pic, what metal part is the arrow pointing to? Do I need to keep that and reuse or is that a part of the pad that can be thrown away?

Those are the retaining springs that help holds the anti-vibration dampers in place.

Have a look at the brake DIY here for more pics.

thanks Loren. Also, do you think I should replace my dust gaskets and the inner gaskets?

On the first pic, taken of the front pads, are these the pistons from the calipers? Mine were stuck to the pads. Is that normal? Should I reuse them or get new pistons?

On the second pic, what metal part is the arrow pointing to? Do I need to keep that and reuse or is that a part of the pad that can be thrown away?

I have been cleaning my brake calipers and wanted to flush them in case I got any dirt or water in where the brake line attaches or in the piston locations. I am sure I can use brake cleaner to clean out the piston holes. I was thinking of setting up a gravity flow process where I could place a funnel at the screw hole where the brake lines attach (see arrow in pic) and then let some fluid drain through. So, is there anything instead of brake fluid, i.e. mineral spirits or kerosene that I can use to flush out the inside of any debris or water before I put the bleeder screws back in and that won’t damage anything inside the calipers?

Not sure what this does. It had a small diameter plastic do dah on it that was mostly off. The inside looks clean so I thought maybe the plastic cover just recently came off. So what is this hole for? Should I cover it up with a plug?

So please share how you clean it. I am serious. :)

Is this the cross member where I can place the rear hydraulic lift?

And someone please explain how to clean the under side of the car as good as Orient Express did! Wow!!!

I got a 2 ton jack from Harbor Frieght for $90. Works great!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=67022

They also have jack stand for $35.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=38847

Hi. looking to replace my front pads and rotors. Wanna do it on a budget. It doesn't have to be original porsche parts. Is there an online site that has a good price on aftermarket pads and rotors? The prices seem to vary wildly from place to place.

I just ordered a set of Pagid yellows (rs29) front and rear from velocityspot.com. They seem to be able to offer a discount that not many others can.

Some websites are referring to Pagid enforcing a minimum sales price. I thought that was illegal in this country..

JP

Pricing fixing among competitors is illegal because it violates the Sherman Antitrust Act but minimum pricing established by one manufacturer to all its retailers is not price fixing and is not illegal. Unfortunately!

The logic behind this is that the one light is not a fog light for you to see but instead, during inclement weather, a light so others behind you can see you better. One light can easily pierce through the weather without blinding those followers when two are on. Just leave it the way it is.

On an interesting note, I had a cop pull me over once and he wrote me a ticket for one of my lights being out. As he gave me the ticket, I asked which light was out so I could get it repaired. As I exited the cabin, I flipped it off. lol. He was a little dumb founded when my brake lights came on and off with no problem. A little fun at his expense. :)

I have a laser jammer ready for install. With that comes a kill switch so you don't jam the signal all the way as you drive toward the LEO, sparking undue suspicion. I'm loathe to drill new holes in my car and prefer a factory look. Does anyone know if you could use an OEM switch in one of the locations where there are blank switches in place of the supplied kill switch? In my car there are two blanks below the PSM switch and two more behind the ashtray on the rear center console.

I'm an electronics idiot and will probably pay somone to do this but I want to know what is possible first and also what parts I should have on hand, if any. Thanks!!!

Which laser jammer are you using?

i never get the alignment done at the dealer. indy's BETTER.

I agree. The indy's are better for a lot of things. I go to the dealer as a last resort - they are, for the most part, very expensive and don't provide any better service. Start doing your homework now and you'll figure out where to take your car for what ails it. G/L

A lot of wheels are cast, even OEM Porsche. The real question is the quality of the molten metal put into the mold and then the process of casting. If done incorrectly (ie in a rush, or with lower quality guideline) casting can create a more porous material. The surface can be made to appear great with some paint but I'd be concerned about the stuff you can't see. IMHO, either go with OEM, used OEM, BBS, or OZ. All these manufacturers use proven quality techniques and their products have been tested under race conditions. For me, the extra cost is worth the piece of mind.

How did you clean your foam? I have the same problem and am trying to resolve it. thanks

I have taken the lid off and now I want to remove the silver knob (or whatever it's called). But, I can't seem to push/pull it off. I tried to use pliers but I don't want to get too aggressive. Any suggestions?

FYI - Super glue did it.

All these cars eyed me yesterday. :lol: I live near Woodward Ave in MI, where, every summer around this time, all kinds of cars come out, old and new. Last night with my wife, after picking up dinner, with our two puppies on her lap, two mustangs, a jeep, a corvette, an old fart in his Mercedes, a number of Honda's, and Subaru's came by me, separate times, and revved their engines to try out the P-car. We must have had a full moon. Funny part is that I was timing the lights so I ended up beating them all (a little luck with traffic) and didn't even have to race. :) It's all the Porsche.

Only good for getting out of the car in VERY TIGHT parking spaces. :P

Regards, Maurice.

Well, too think about it, Bling is always good to get into other very tight things! Where do a get a pair?!?!

I don't know, I think if enough people roll their eyes in disbelief, anybody will give a ****. :eek: Don't do it.

One of my window moldings is ripped. Anyone know of an adhesive that will bond the ripped molding together for a weather tight seal? I do not want to replace it just yet because it costs about $200 since it comes with a bracket and other parts etc etc. so I thought of just trying to repair it first. Thanks.

BTW, changing your own brake fluid is soooooo easy. I read about it on here and it took about 1.5 hours beginning to end. Had a friend pump the brakes. Next time it'll be faster. Saved money and I feel more comfortable with the Porsche.

Thanks, especially Tool Pants. I'll make a list of things to do and tackle them accordingly. Seems like my toy is going into the garage early this year. :(

Here's the problem. As any gear is engaged and I step on the gas, the revs climb but I only get partial engagement of the clutch. If I am already moving and I apply a little more power, same slipping feeling. And my clutch pedal feels lighter now too. So I think this is a clutch slipping issue. What should I do? Do I replace a clutch pad or the entire clutch itself? Should I attempt this on my own and save a few bucks? Or pay an independent? Also, if I have it done, what's the cost? Should I do any other replacement while this is being done? - ie RMS although I don't see any leaking oil.

Here are the other links I have looked at too.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms2.php

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...clutch+slipping

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...clutch+slipping

Thanks

This is the definitive brake pad/ brake rotor DIY page

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/

I like this link but it is for a Boster. Is the process for a 99 996 the same?

Great Write up. I have one short modification. I did not even take the latch out of its location. I lubed the spring right in place since it was clearly visible. Then just tightened the two bolts, checked to make sure I did not forget anything. Took about 10 minutes. Hood shuts perfectly now and the spring is lubed. I might even spray it again in a couple of days just for overkill.

Thanks once again

BTW, anyone know the part number to just the red plastic cover on the latch? I thougt I'd replace it since it is looking a little faded.

Thanks Loren. Once again, even though I did a search I could not find this thread. But, thank you to you sir for the right answer!! :D I'll attempt this fix this weekend.