viper501

Change the fluids... the technology has gotten better but the real reason for the increased service intervals is the companies like JD Power that provides data on cost of operation. Various manufacturers, Mercedes, BMW, etc, have increased service intervals to decrease the perceived cost of ownership. Frankly, it is a huge disservice to the buyer but it typically won't affect the manufacturer as failures will occur after the expiration of the relatively short time frame for warranty coverage.

I haven't seen a single seat that would fit in the back. And I've been looking. Why not put the Porsche seat in the front and have 5'4 sit in the back?

A pic might be more apt to get a quick response.

What updates or improvements were there?

As I understand it, the factory updated things along the way that they found to be problematic. I think Loren or Toolpants can provide a detailed list of the changes made through the years but I understand them to include bearing changes, changes to the intermediate shaft (a known problem in older cars) and other things Porsche identified in the intervening years. Nothing performance oriented but more service/durability issues.

Congrats. You get the latest version of the engine with all of the updates and improvements plus a new two year warranty on the new motor. Sounds like a great deal for you.

And do what white987 suggested and break the new motor in carefully.

My C2 is done. Used a lift and a friend. Total work time from lift to drive off was about 2 hours. Including the time to put the skid plate in the engine. Helped a lot to have a lift and to have both a spring compressor and a pry bar for the rear shock/spring. Taking a little tension off then gently lifting with the pry bar made it a cinch to get the old units out. The pry bar also came in handy when installing the new rear units and trying to replace the bolt.

Loren, do you know if the X74 sways are the same as the US M030 sways?

Thanks Tpants. I guess we (you and I) and them (safelite) are both right. I just am *very* hesitant to have them doing anything that might lead to rattles in the dash.

Lane, fortunately, this is covered entirely by insurance in my state. Frankly, considering the pitting that I had / have in my current windshield it is going to be nice to have a smooth surface again.

How did they deal with the wiring issue? That is the local Safelite angle on the need to disassemble at least some portion of the dash.

Ironically, Safelite is the installer that is saying this. The trim is being ordered right now. We'll see what they come up with. They still insist that to get the antenna plugged they have to pull the cover closest to the windshield. I'm still skeptical. Anyone accessed the plug for the antenna without messing with the dash?

Bringing this back from the dead. I got a nasty crack in the windshield and just said goodbye to the Safelite guy (who is using an OEM piece of glass). He said he couldn't do it because a) he didn't have the trim for the windshield, and B) he said that the dash had to come out because of the antenna in the windshield. By the looks of the above picture, it wasn't necessary to pull any part of the dash.

Any educated thoughts on this question.

Probably jinxing myself here but what the hay. I've got almost 110k miles on my 99C2. It does have a small oil leak (looks like cam cover gasket). Had to replace a coolant hose that failed abruptly as well as a serpentine belt that was eaten when the Stealer botched the reinstall of the coolant hose repair and didn't tighten the alternator properly. Also recently replaced the water pump that shredded itself about the 106k mile mark. *knocking on wood*

I had the 3m product installed on my ///M Roadster when I bought it. Held up very well and really protected the nose from all but the most severe rock impacts. Even the big stuff didn't do very much damage. Definitely a sacrificial layer. Highly recommend it be installed by a professional with lots of experience, references (that you actually call) and do NOT let them cut it on the car. They will have to make some trim cuts but don't let them do the whole car that way.

Also, you might want to check with them regarding the durability, or rather removability, of the product on non-factory paint.

Your car is lactating. :D Seriously, not sure what it would be unless it was a sign of water contamination in the fluid. Again, that is just a guess. Congrats on getting the job done with some 2x4 engineering.

I'm assuming that the same applies for an X74 upgrade?

I had real problems with my car when it was cold and had the fluid changed to BG brand fluid. It was a huge difference in both the shifting and the prevention of the popping out of gear (2d only) when cold. Highly recommend it!

Bleed the brakes man! If you just drained the fluid and refilled, that is definitely your problem. I'm hoping that I misread that. The traditional technique outlined by Dman should work great in place of the pressure bleeder.

I have the sport seats in my 99 but I think that they are different from the Sport Adaptive seats you are looking at. The sport seats are great, in my opinion. They have great support and do a good job of holding you in place without 'wearing' them.

Get an upgraded amp. It will make a huge difference, probably more so than the speakers. The head unit isn't that bad, other than the limited amount of inputs, e.g. no XM control built in, but the amp is pathetic (even in the hi fi cars). With what you are looking to spend on speakers, I'd strongly suggest getting a decent amp (JL 300/4 or Audison are both great options). The rear speakers are more for fill so I'd save a couple dollars on them. Also, there is a guy on here who is selling adapters for the rather oddly shaped factory dash and rear housings. A little pricey but if you want something plug and play they look pretty nice ( I used a sheet of ABS plastic to cobble together something similar prior to seeing his stuff). Oh, and I think you'll enjoy the Focals.

Be careful with any overwattage bulbs. Prior owner of my car browned the pass. side and started melting the driver's side (not bad, just noticable) with overwatt bulbs.

No. Or at least, I wouldn't think so. Chroming is a much different process than paint. I'd send it to a pro like wheelenhancement.com

No. Don't waste money on the chip until you have done something to truly alter the flow characteristics of the engine. For example, intake, cams, header, and exhaust then you'll need a chip/reprogram.

Drain tube is probably clogged and not draining as designed allowing water to collect and overflow. Had it happen in other cars with similar designs. Try blowing some compressed air up the tube, or remove the tube and blow down and out (probably a better idea now that I think about what you could be blowing back into the car).

While the car is rattling, try putting your foot on the exhaust tips and see if it stops. Mine does that sometimes and goes away if I do this. Told me that there's nothing serious going on until I find the time to deal with it.

I installed mine under the front bumper cover. It is completely invisible and it works well. It is clearly a bit more work, but it seems to have no "shadow" effects, and gets as good reception as another car that I drive that has a factory install on the roof.

That's a great idea for true stealth install. I don't know how big your Sirius guys antennas are but I mounted my XM antenna on the dash underneath of a small plastic cover in the center of the dash. Popped off easily and there is a small metal tab that the magnet stuck to. I then ran the wire down into the dash.

I don't have any suggestions for the Sirius processor though. I got sick of wires all over the previous car so I upgraded my head unit to an Alpine XM ready unit.