viper501

Your description sounds *very* similar to a problem I had on the way to a hearing. Except I had a plume of steam coming from the rear as well. Turns out that a small plastic fitting near the alternator failed. When the engine was running, it was spraying coolant everywhere, very quickly, and under pressure. If you look for the thread I posted in on removing alternators you can see some of my pictures of the general area. The fitting is about a five dollar part but is not, according to my local dealer, an 'in-stock' item. They had to pull it off of an engine that was shipped in to replace a blown one. I'll see if I can find an appropriate pic.

Bottom line, I wouldn't risk overheating the engine. Get it towed to the shop.

... Except I had a plume of steam coming from the rear as well. Turns out that a small plastic fitting near the alternator failed. ...

Take a look at the plastic fitting that is just right of the idler pulley. See the small hose feeding into it? Its full of pressurized coolant. The fitting failed and spewed coolant *everywhere*.

Used factory *front* rotors only. Didn't replace the rear rotors. HP+ on the front and factory on the rear. IIRC, it was about 100 for front pads, 100 for the rear, and about 100 for each of the two rotors. Factory parts came from Sunset(?) or the like while I can't recall where I got the HP+'s. I know I looked far and wide for the best deal I could find on the pads.

I second Loren's analysis. Had both of mine go out almost at exactly the same time. Pulled the bumper and replaced with a pair from Autozone. Been working great ever since.

The only part that I wouldn't reuse would be the vibration dampers. They are stick on items and I doubt that they would be effective as a used item. You literally stick them on to the new pads with the adhesive backing. Not sure that you would be able to get them off the old pads and get them to stick to new pads. If you aren't changing the rotors you should be OK otherwise. (although it is possible that the spring shim could be weakened from heat cycling but none of mine were).

Not to mention the fact that there are three bulbs on each side ...

While most of the 'illegal' stuff is also in poor taste, I'm *really* glad I don't live in the Republik of Kalifornia. You'd think they might have some more pressing issues than the color of windshield washer nozzles and the presence of lights on tire stems .... *shaking head in disgust*

I responded to your question on 6speedonline.com as well but I'll leave it here to in case someone else has the same inquiry. I changed my own pads ( all the way around ) and the front rotors. Put Hawk HP+ on the front and factory pads on the rear. New backing platest (to prevent/limit squeal) all around as well. IIRC, total on parts was about 400 dollars, maybe slightly more with the backing plates and new bolts for the front calipers ( not sure that is totally necessary but did it anyway as Porsche recommends). Took about an hour and a half to do. Very easy DIY. A quick search should locate a good DIY here. Don't pay over a grand for pads. Just not remotely worth it considering how easy it is to do yourself.

I did 25% all the way around with a film that uses carbon instead of metals or dyed polyester. That way no interference with radio signals, such as sat/gps/xm/cell, and no purpling over time. Can't remember the brand name though. I've had good experience in the past with Llumar films though in other cars. You might see if there is a CA exemption for vision / medical reasons.

No experience with this but found it while reading the perfectbore site. http://www.autofarm.co.uk/new.php3/silsleevepricing.html

Be sure to get the green bolt tight during the reinstall. I believe that the dealer failed to properly tighten it causing it to slowly back out and allow the alternator to pivot on the red flange, cracking it and requiring replacement. Fortunately there was no major failure of anything else and I heard all heck breaking loose as soon as I started the car to leave the office.

Loren, I thought that the C2 and C4 hubs were different so that the C2 calipers were not direct bolt-ons to the C4 and vice versa. Is that incorrect?

Here are some pics from my fiasco. Feel free to use them if you can. I've got many more but most are fairly duplicative.

My alternator was kind enought to fall off a number of miles after it was R&R'd by the dealer doing another repair. :/ Fractured the lower bracket and shredded the belt and the oil filler hose. I've got some pictures of the area. I'll see if I can find 'em and post 'em up.

That's *ugly*! I hope you're not driving it like that. And judging by the looks of the wheel, I don't see any obvious signs of damage on the exterior. What prompted you to notice the fracture?

Cluster removal instructions are in the DIY section, somewhere. GPS is, from what I understand, installed by the factory exactly where you are thinking about putting it. I used the same spot to mount my XM receiver. Cover pops off fairly easily, be sure not to break it, ask me how I know ... There is a small hole there that you can feed a wire down behind the dash. Grab it from there and feed it whereever you need it. Might help if you yank the stereo for access.

While I like the 'bling' factor offered by the big turbo brakes, I don't know that they are really necessary, even on a s/c car, unless you're doing track time. I've pushed my C2 hard using upgraded pads and have not had any fade even in less than optimum conditions. The brakes really benefit from a pad upgrade. Given the costs associated with the upgrade to the turbos, I'd be inclined to give a pad change a try first. YMMV though.

Response time can be a bit slow. My understanding is that the Turbo brakes were larger than the standard black C2 brakes. IIRC, you can't just bolt on the Turbo's brakes to a C2 but have to replace the spindle, or machine an adapter.

6speedonline.com has beat this horse silly. Lots of dissension over whether the results are valid or not. I'd really like to see someone independent and unbiased do a test. So far, I haven't seen one. The ones that are out there haven't met the numbers K&N is claiming.

One thing that you might check is the torque on the lug nuts. Its quick and easy to do and eliminate as a potential source of clicking. ( I understand that its a long shot but I've seen them be loose from inadequate installations )

So ... if you want to join in we will be gathering this Saturday morning (15 July) starting approx. 7:00AM at:

Caribou Coffee at Governor’s Square on Fairview Rd (near SouthPark Mall)

Doh! How often are these things going to occur? I'd love to make it this weekend but I've got family coming in. :censored:

Loren's method is what I was referring to as the proper method for the repair of our tires. Requires removal of the tire from the rim. The only way to do it *properly*.

I had a nail in my front tire .Brought it to the dealer .They repaired it with a plug .

Is this the correct method?? 2004 996 <_<

Plugs are *NOT* appropriate for our cars. They can allow water to infiltrate the steel belts, they can fail at speed, and they are generally entirely too dangerous for high speed driving in modern steel belted radials. Get that tire removed and patched with a pull-through style patch. BTW, your dealer is an idiot for patching a tire on a Porsche. :cursing:

Since your is an 04, I believe that it is a MOST car. I don't have the MOST system so I'm not exactly sure what all it controls, but, it is my understanding that the components are all networked together and removal of one of the components in the network can cause issues with the rest of the network communication / interaction. If everything is working, and you're happy with the sound, I'd say you're in good shape.

Reroute the release cable (its easiest if you remove the right headlight) from the void behind the light to the area immediately behind your front bumper. It is plenty long enough. Then, remove your towing socket bumper plug, and route the cable loop out through that. Tie a piece of cord/fishing line to the loop, and the other end to the back of the bumper plug. Push it all back into the bumper and reinsert the plug. Now, when you find that your normal release will not work, you can just pop out the bumper plug, pull out the cable loop using the cord, and, "open sesame".

Excellent suggestion! :clapping: :renntech:

What year is your car? MOST installed cars obviously have different issues than pre-MOST systems. In my experience, the factory 6 channel amp was a bit inadequate, to say the least. I upgraded the amp myself, along with the head unit and speakers, to a JL Audio 4/300.