viper501

I assume that you have done a manual check of the oil level using the dipstick. Try checking the oil filter housing as well and give the bottom of the engine a general once-over. FWIW, your K&N filter may cause a CEL as, if overoiled, they can eject oil drops onto the MAF sensor. Congrats on the purchase though. Sounds like you have a great find.

Look for Loren's 3d Radiator install instructions. Should prove very helpful as the front bumper has to come off the mount the third radiator. Take the time to clean out your radiators while you have the nose off. You'll probably be fairly disgusted by the amount of debris in there (including formerly living things).

I think I've seen somewhere that there were additonal gussets welded into a couple corners of the inside of the pasenger compartment. I don't remember exactly where they were nor where I saw that information.

Careful about powdercoating alloy wheels. Depending upon the construction and the temps used by the coater, you could weaken or induce excessive brittleness in the metal. As far as painting, most of our wheels are painted from the factory. If done correctly, it can be extremely duable. Preparation and experience are key though so find a good shop that will get everything right.

Unfortunately yes. Also, it's very hard to reassemble it without introducing any rattles.

That is why I'd be *very* reluctant to take that apart. Its like when you were a kid, pulling stuff apart, easy. Putting it all back together perfectly, not so easy. :cursing:

Filter on a manual tranny?!? I've found the electronic level indicator in my car to be worse than worthless. It is *never* correct, or the dipstick is always wrong. Frankly, I am going to trust the dipstick, not the electronic indicator.

Alcantara is definitely a synthetic. Uses microfiber technology to form the material.

Split, what did you use to adhere the alcantara to the pieces? I assume a spray adhesive? Any tips would be appreciated. I'm going to start the progressive conversion process as well.

I'd strongly suggest getting new pads. As Nick pointed out, the pads are normally replaced with the rotors, i.e. if you need new rotors, you also get new pads. Be careful that you don't induce uneven wear or grooving on your shiny new rotors.

Viper, What is your thinking re: transaxle fluid; do you think i tbreaks down over time or has there been a history of issues around that, or its more of a being conservative suggestion?

I'd say its a little bit of both. Heat and time effect the lubricants, even synthetics. The whole lifetime tranny fluid stuff started with the advent of JD powers reports on cost of ownership over "X" years, which also led to the extension of a number of critical service intervals such as a oil changes ... :cursing: I think that it is a good idea to spend the fifty or sixty bucks for the knowledge that you've got fresh fluid and fresh protection for the transaxle...

You locking nuts can also be removed by a special removal tool, and an air wrench. BE AWARE, it will likely destroy the locking bolt, but at least you'll have the thing out. In a pinch, you can also destroy a socket by forcing it onto the locking bolt then removing it. Again, these are emergency type fixes with definite drawbacks.

Personally, I'd add a transaxle fluid change to that list. Even though your miles aren't high, five years probably warrants a change although some may deem it excessive. Might also consider an alignment depending on the condition of your streets. Finally, I'd inspect and clean the radiators of debris.

Tires and alignment should go a long way toward fixing handling issues. You might also want to determine which suspension you have and whether you have any factory or aftermarket ground effects. If you have the factory aerokit 1 (aka taco tail ) make sure that it hasn't been fiddled with and make sure that they have the correct bumper. Pictures might help somewhat in identifying what parts and pieces you have.

mine whines as well. I think its fairly normal, up to a point.

And remember if you tint your windows and do get stopped, roll them down and turn on your dome light so the officer can see inside when he approaches. In many locations this is a legal requirement as well as a good idea.

Dharn55, Please do a 996 supplement on the heated seat install. I'd really like to do this, and my wife would like it even more. Even a parts list would be a great starting point. Thanks!

Thanks Loren, the shop said that I will not get all the benefit from my intake/exaust unless I do the $1400 computer "flash". They must be talking about a chip, what kind of improvement might I see or feel?

The most realistic performance increase will probably be the weight loss associated with the reduction of your wallet by $1400. Most computer voodoo is just that unless you have *significantly* changed the intake parameters (i.e. cams, turbo, supercharger, etc.) I think the reason that Lauren suggested a before/after dyno run is because most of the time, there isn't anything gained in this area. Even where there are some gains, it is my experience that there is merely a shifting of the peak without any increase in the area under the curve and in many instances, there is actually a reduction of the area under the curve. Like I said, mostly voodoo unless you have really changed the engines flow characteristics with something more than a 'free flow' intake or exhaust. Just my two cents. :soapbox:

.....can they clean the sealant crap out of the tire?

From what I understand, no. Although it could be that they just don't wanna mess with it. :cursing:

.... error code 1128. Replaced air filter with K&N filter, checked all hoses and no air leaks. Still, every 150-200 kms, the CEL comes on. I would like to try cleaning the MAF and tightening the bolts a try before I take to a dealer who will empty out my pocket.

My MAF issues disappeared after removing the K&N style oiled filter and replacing w/ dry paper OEM element. I'd try that plus the electronic cleaner mentioned above.

....cannot get the alternator past the lower bracket. I think the lower bracket is part of the cooling system and would prefer not to remove it and have coolant leak everywhere. ...

It is and you will, if you remove it. And be sure to completely tighten the upper bolt or bad things can happen ... :censored:

Have you considered cleaning the idle air control valve? Other vehicles of mine have experienced similar problems due to IAC not working properly due to contamination. Its a cheap and simple fix. Although, I'm not certain that the egas cars even have an IAC? Loren?

All fixed. $467 and change split between parts and labor. Most expensive part was new alternator pulley (replaced due to two small dents on the outer surface).

In the spirit of finishing threads off, I thought I'd finalize my saga, at least for now.

Got the car back. $467 and change split fairly evenly between parts and labor. Sucks because I could have easily performed the labor had I noticed this at home. Good thing is that it seems to be running fine and the new belt looks much healthier than the one that came out of the car.

If you become a contributing member you can access the TSB page which includes the litronic retrofit instructions, as well as a bunch of other useful information.

I just replaced mine w/ the B.G. full syn gear oil. The difference is incredible. Synchros definitely seem happier.