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viper501

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Posts posted by viper501

  1. Air / Oil is probably about right since they will likely remove the engine to gain access to it. While in there, they should be able to replace the filler hose with no extra work as well as the PCV's. The compression test is, in my opinion, a bit high. When my motor went, I paid an hour of labor for them to do the diagnosis which involved a compression check on all six cylinders (number 2 was 0).

  2. Jsoto, the best we can tell is that I probably lost an exhaust valve spring. Car was misfiring horribly but would still run. No compression on number 2 but no indications of a failed cylinder. A scope exam of the cylinder showed no debris or liquid inside so no indication that the cylinder liner failed. Also, the failure was 'instant' but no buildup prior to the mishap. I replaced the engine myself with a 'new' Porsche reman'd unit. Including the flywheel and clutch, as well as some miscellaneous incidentals, I spent about 10k.

    The biggest pain was the horrific experience I had with Brandywine Porsche telling me they ordered the replacement engine and assuring me it would be in and on its way to me while completely, totally, and absolutely lying.

  3. Intermediate shaft controls the cams, all four of them, via a chain drive. If the shaft fails, the chain doesn't rotate and therefore the cams don't rotate. No way you have a broken intermediate shaft. The pistons slam into the valves and that's all she wrote for that engine.

    The flashing CEL is something to be concerned about but I'd suggest that it is not related to the IMS. The thing I think I'd be curious about at this point is the state of the coil packs. They are notorious for developing cracks and failing. My experience is that high RPM tends to show ignition problems that won't appear at low RPM.

    Personally, I'd find another dealer, or a good independent (preferred) who has a good reputation for Porsche work.

  4. Frankly, it sounds to me, being the cynic that I am, that your dealer may be trying to take advantage of someone. If your engine had an IMS failure, it would not run. Period. There are a plethora of reasons that the CEL could / would be on including something as simple as a bad MAF sensor or O2 sensor or any number of other things.

    On the other hand, if the warranty company picks up the tab for a new engine, you get a two year unlimited mileage warranty from Porsche on the replacement motor.

    Having replace an engine at 126k miles, I would be very surprised if yours truly needed replacing given what you have described.

  5. My LWF rattles slightly at idle in neutral. Press the clutch in and it goes away. Your service advisor is an idiot, end of story. Either that or the tech is, or both I suppose. I would recommend that you get the car away from them. Far, far away. Then get someone competent, like yourself, to change the transmission fluid unless it has been done recently. The 'lifetime' fill on the transmissions means the lifetime of the factory warranty.

  6. I would especially check the oil separator bellows for cracking, esp. on the back side of the bellows. It is located on the driver's side of the engine above the first cylinder cam. Do a search and you can find some photos and discussion on replacement. On my old motor I replaced it fairly easily using the factory bellows and a pair of screw down clamps (versus the factory style spring clamps). Easy DIY but painful to get to physically due to positioning.

  7. To answer one of your original questions, the OEM amp is pathetic. Simply stated. The OEM speakers are likewise substandard for a car of this caliber. If you're going to do a replacement head unit, instead of what KevinMac has suggested, do the whole kit and kaboodle. You'll be very happy with the end result over OEM. I'm using an Alpine head unit with JL Audio amp and Focal components in the front and, IIRC, Boston Acoustics as fill in the back.

  8. donuts,

    I thouht of doings something similar but have decided that the assembly of the halogen housings is not separable like many of the composite headlights. Or at least, they do not appear to be without subjecting the housing to almost certain destruction. The BMW technique of shake and bake is not going to work (BTDT). The housing appears to be held together with a non-thermoset style adhesive (almost looks like an RTV).

    Good luck though. I'd love to see someone figure out a way to do it.

  9. Joe,

    Majority of the problem is that the engines are so blooming expensive and there really aren't that many of them relative to the SBC's. Therefore, the learning curve can be fairly expensive. I think there is someone on Rennlist, or maybe 6speed, doing his own centrifigal s/c build.

    Ruf did this ... http://euroautoforums.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1408 ... while it looks like a 997, the interior shows it is really a 996. The back end also shows that it has twin turbos with the IC's old school style on top of the engine.

    Also, the turbo cars (TT and GT2) and the GT3 use a substantially different block than the m96 that is installed in the 996/97 cars. It is much stouter and is really more a water cooled version of the 993 engines. Presumably, this is because the m96 can't take the boost levels that the TT/GT engines can handle.

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