cayenneturbo

Can anyone direct me to the DIY for replacing the coils/plugs. I have searched but can't find anything.

Thanks

I am installing aftermarket.

I'm getting ready to switch out my PCM 2.0, it is the CD version. Before I post on eBay I figured I would offer it to someone here. No issues with it, I am just upgrading to different head unit. It is still installed, it has the most updated CD's. I really don't know how much to ask for, the ones on eBay sell for $1500, but I can't imagine it really being worth that.

Thanks

I forgot to mention that it will come with NAVTV Ipod adapter where you can control your Ipod from the head unit.

I just have a questin about the Odometer reading and any programing. The reason I ask is becuase I needed to replace the cluster in my M5 due to pixel failure and it would not work unless the Vin was programmed in and and if the mileage was lower then what was on mine then red dot appeared. So I got a cluster with about 14K more miles on it and had the dealership program the vin in. The could not adjust the OD due to chip inside was not writable.

I am wondering if anyone recieved the red "tamper" do or something similiar for those installing lower mileage clusters.

Well I took on the HWY for first time in long time and did a hard accel at HWY speed while in 4th gear.....and unfortunately it did it all gears,,,3 - 4 and 5. It happend right at 3000rm with visible rpm change, seems to be constant. It also feels as if it was coming from right rear area. That one tire is real bad, I just had it moved from the front to the rear because of vibration at 70ish mph. I orginally thought it was the shaft at that tiime (2months ago), but they said it was ok. They re-balance, rotated and aligned the car and the vibration sort of went away. It was gone for a while but returned slightly but felt coming from the rear. I just can't believe it could be tire to cause that because it is independent of speed. Actually I concentrated so much on RPM that I never noticed speed. I will have to verify that tonight, because I think I was doing approx 45mph cruising when it happened in 5th gear.

For past few days I have felt a vibration when in 3rd gear under acceleration. It happens at around 2900-3000 rpm and last till about 3200-3300 rpm. I can only feel it, I don't see the rpm surge as if it was slipping. It happens only in this gear and under acceleration. Anyone else experience this?

I am usually the last one to say "Use the search" function, but man if you look down just a couple of posts you will see my own posts on this topic. I did some research and found that the best is OEM Pagid, but you will get the brake dust. There are mixed reviews with the Hawk HPS and thier Ceramic. Mostly that they don't have the initial "bite" that the OEM has, but you are not left with tons of brake dust.

I went with the Hawk HPS and I hope that I get the same results others like Mudman has (he has installed or about to be on his 3rd set). The ceramic have the potential to eat rotors and not be as effective when cold, but have no visually dust. Thier dust is very light.

Of course you can go OEM and use aftermarket inhibitors like the new Armor All.

Good Luck!

We were at the dealership today to look at some 911's. Time for us to get rid of our M5. When the salesman saw our CTT he was amazed that it did not come with Alcantara headliner. He says it comes standard. We had a peak at all the other CTT and they all had it. I had the VIN ran for option codes and it shows up as a deletion. I found this to be odd. Does anyone else have a CTT without Alcantara? After being in one with it I feel gypped. Anyone had thier upgraded to Alcantara or similiar material? It looks real nice inside, very luxurious.

What is eveyone's thoughts on Hawk Ceramic vs Hawk HPS?

I have completed a search on which brake pads to use and the consensus on the forum is Hawk Dustless, although like "GCHU" I could not find Hawk Dustless, like him I could only find the following below post that I copied/pasted. My main criteria is to retain OEM stopping power and to reduce brake dust. I have heard that Hawk pads have to heat up or be hot to be effective, at least on some of the review websites that I have read. Our OEM Pagid are great but have the brake dust issue. Are they any other brands out there that are better. Also if you could tell me where you are getting them, thanks.

Posted August 13, 2008 - 02:01 PM

I did some searching and found everyone talks about the Hawk Dustless Pads. The only Hawk Pads I found for the Cayenne from Hawk are the:

Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads

Stopping Power: 3 Stars, Low Noise: 4 Stars, Low Dust: 4 Stars

Hawk HPS Street Brake Pads

Stopping Power: 4 Stars, Low Noise: 3 Stars, Low Dust: 3 Stars

Hasw LTS Truck/SUV Pads

Stopping Power: 4 Stars, Low Noise: 3 Stars, Low Dust: 3 Stars

Has Hawk Dustless got replaced by one of the above? Anyone has experience or recommand of these pads for a heavy 5000+ pounds Cayenne? Thanks.

How many brake sensors are there? 2 or 4. I was about to buy from AutohausAZ and their site states (2) per car in each of the front and rear sections.

For any other car I have owned (other then Porsche) I have always concentrated on pads vs rotors. Does rotor brand make any significant difference? I know that pads do.

I am mainly going for the look, I have always thought that drilled rotors looked more sporty.

I was planning on just buying everthing I needed from AutohausAZ ($607), then I saw these on eBay:

These are cross drilled:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cayenne-3-2L-350MM-05-06-Drill-Brake-Rotor-Premium-F-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2557c0e0e7QQitemZ160386048231QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

These are a set of front/rear with pads, although I wasn't planning using those pads.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-CAYENNE-2004-2008-350mm-Brake-Rotors-pads-F-R-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5acec752QQitemZ250631604050QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I am stuck between using Pagid and Hawk for pads.

What are your thoughts, thanks/

We bought the car last July with 50K, it now has 66k. Would you say the likley hood is that the car has had it brakes replaced already? I am trying to figure out if this is the 2nd 3rd or 4th brake change.

How long do the rotors last? Or how often are the brakes replaced on the Turbos?

My brake light warning light just came on. My question is do I have to replace the rotors? I see from prior post that it seems to be the case, but I just want to know for sure before I spend an additional $4-500 rotors. Does anyone where the cheapest place to get the set. I have priced AutohausAZ at $607 with out new hardware - this is for 4 rotors, pads and 2 sensors.

Thanks

It all depends on condition and service history. These are overall good,dependable vehicles but can cost a small fortune to bring up to par if they haven't been maintained or require timing belts,water pump,oil cooler repair,engine oil leaks or clutch replacement. The vehicle would have to be in very good condition to fetch 5k where I live.

I have had a # of these, and unless this is a one owner vehicle I seriously doubt that it has only 55k on it. The odometer only goes up to 99,999. These were eco-porsches even when I bought my first one 22 years ago. I all likely hood this thing has 155k if no 255k. I would look for a boxter for a couple more $K.

Drill out the rivets. You can re-rivet it or use sheet metal screws to tighten the panel. I still have to fix my door lock (it doesn't lock) and I've drilled out the rivets to see what the problem was. Since I have not done the repair my rivets are still out but the only time my panel makes noise is when the window is down. After I do my repair I will either re-rivet or use screws. I believe you can also access the lock mechanism from the outside handle/ key area. It is a really detailed process, I did it by just looking at it so plan on taking 2 to 4 hours (if you take your time).

I just did a repair on my lock, the door sensor malfunctioned it was constantly saying it was open. Just drill out the rivets, the part you will removing the rivets from is a security feature to prevent "slim jims" from opening your door. It is just a guard over the lock pulley wire.

I just bought a CTEK 7002 Charger, I was just going to get the 3300 (which is what Porsche re-badges as thier own) but I was able to get the 7002 on sale for $100 and it is 7amp vs 3 so the charging will be faster. One of the nice features is the reconditioning function that is suppossed to remove stratified acid.

Has anyone ever used one of these for reconditioning? I don't want to mess up the batteries or more importantly the electronics.

Well I am the poster child for why you must read the instructions ---- fully. I took to the shop yesterday, I found an indie with a old PIWIS who programmed it for $85. What should have taken 10 mins took an hour. They could not read the module. What I had failed to do was connect the "red" connector that is burried deep in the side panel.

This is a definately an easy DIY. You can save hundreds if not more by buying the kit or getting on off a salvage like I did. Total cost for me was under $500 and everything is OEM.

The module you get may have 2 or 3 female plugs depending on how old it is if you are getting it off a salavage. Mind had 3. For US models only 2 plugs are used: Black, Red to module and Green to car. The Black and Green male plugs come from the wiring harness is is very easily pushed through the foam with the bumper off. The red plug is behind the panel that must be removed. Panel removal will take about 15-20 if done carefully.

If any one has any questions please feel free to email me. I was able to do the whole install aside from coding. I estimate the whole install time from start to finish to be about 2 hours at relaxed pace.

I tried using the search but could not find the answer I was looking for. I intend on replacing my PCM 2.0 (cd version) with Pioneer or Alpine Navigation unit. I intend on doing self install which I have much experience with ..... but with regular cars not MOST.

So from what I see from the wiring diagram the MOST goes from the PCM to the amp and from amp to speaker are regular speakers. So I could just replace the PCM and the amp. I would just have to run pre-amp cables from front to rear to new amp. The amp would have to be at least a 3 way to isolate the sub and tweeters. I would most likely get a 5 way. I would run the GPS cable along with the pre-amp cable and install in the rear wing with the other antenna.

I would of course loose steering wheel controls, but in reality all I am really loosing is the ability to adjust the volume since the other buttons only act as a scan and not to change from one programmed channel to the next.

I have seen the MOST-HUR, but there is no info on the NAV-TV website on it. Does anyone know of anyother product to which I could use to maintain MOST wires and steering wheel functions.

Thanks

Thanks, I just went ahead and plugged it in tonight. No faults were displayed, but I did not connect it to my Durametric. Thanks

Has anyone connected the hitch module themselves that can help me out or if someone with a hitch could be kind enough to see how many wires are attached to the module?

From the TSB the large connection (black) is for USA while one of the smaller ones is for non-usa, but that leaves one empty. The green one looks like it connects to the green connector on the car, but is there a connection from car to the module?

I appreciate the help, as I am trying to minimize the cost as much as possible from the dealership that is going to charge me $140 just to program the car this comming Monday.

Thanks

I just installed the hitch today and routed the wires through the car and just have the module to install. The directions in the TSB aren't clear to me. The module has three femaile plug spots, my wiring only has two male plugs ( one black and one green). The black one is the larger and there is only one spot to connect to. The green one I think plugs into the car in the green slot. Am I missing something? What are the other to spots for?

Thnx

Loren,

Thanks,