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97-boxster

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Posts posted by 97-boxster

  1. Hard to tell, allot of ambient noise, what I can hear sounds like a bearing. Are you concerned about that knocking? You might be able to narrow it down with a stethoscope or take to a good indi shop for diagnosis only (they're not always right it's a start).

    Regards, PK

    Ya, I asked a shop that I was at, and he said the balancing shaft, does that sound like it could be it? Gonna take it in for a diagnoses in a week, and see what they say. Just want to be better prepared and know what's wrong so I can set aside the money.

  2. Sticking scavenge pump, camshaft running dry by clogged oil gallery's, incorrect torque of the valve covers, valve covers improper for the actual cylinder heads, etc. A lot of work to find out, unless you know what happened with the engine. Difficult to say without further research.

    Well definetely something I did not want to hear but such as life. What do you suggest my next step is to further the diagnoses?

  3. Can you post a sound clip?

    Hey, the noise is coming from the left side, and the second air pump is on the right correct? I'm not able to post a sound clip at this time, but I will when I get the chance. Really bothering me, i left it at my parents till the weekend because it's incredibly annoying to drive right now. Anymore ideas? Just so when I go to diagnose it, i'll have somethings to check. Thanks a lot guys.

  4. I had my PS pump done ...fixing that it ran pretty good, then all of the sudden it start getting a ****ty idle going from 1000-1800, I checked all my vacuum lines and they are ok. Any other ideas? Can the IAC be cleaned? How would I go about doing that?

    Your first idea makes scence and would bemy firs guess though mine have usually been most pronounced at idle...If i recall corectly. How did you check your vacume lines?

    My second sounds like a bad pulley bearing, but … we know it's definetely not a pulley on the front of the engine. Any insight is greatly appreciated, thanks guys.

    A loose and slipping belt can squeak but that usually goes away when it warms up Lifters to but I think that goes away. Is it a low droan on or a squeak or…. Dose it go away

    Regards, PK

    Hey,I checked my vacuum lines with a vacuum line tester, well my friend did. I think its the iac just not sure how to clean it, or the proper way to take it apart. The squeeking doesn't happen all the time, but when it starts it stays around for a while, doesn't do it if I coast, or touch the gas slightly, but revving it at idle will make it be very noticeable. Its not a belt as it was already changed. How do I go about checking lifters etc? Really want this noise gone. Thanks

  5. I had my PS pump done at a shop and they messed around with the vacuum lines so after fixing that it ran pretty good, then all of the sudden it start getting a ****ty idle going from 1000-1800, not sure if this is the IAC or something else. I checked all my vacuum lines and they are ok. Any other ideas? Can the IAC be cleaned? How would I go about doing that?

    My second issue has bin around for a while, it sounds like a bad pulley bearing, but after looking at it for a while, we found out that it's not. Its coming from the left side, below the airbox, not sure what could be causing this at all, been troubling me and my buddy for a while, just can't seem to figure it out. But we know it's definetely not a pulley on the front of the engine. Any insight is greatly appreciated, thanks guys.

  6. Any further insight on replacing the power steering pump guys? If someone could give me quick directions or, a link on a DIY article that would be well appreciated, let me know guys, thanks.

    If you are sure it is only the power steering ( I still suggest that do you what said) then you likely have a bad power steering pump bearing. That means a new pump.

    Ok, thanks. How hard is it to change the pump? Anybody able to tell me their experience in that? Or is it pretty straight forward? Is there a bleeder valve on the pump to get the air out after? Let me know guys, thanks.

  7. If you are sure it is only the power steering ( I still suggest that do you what said) then you likely have a bad power steering pump bearing. That means a new pump.

    Ok, thanks. How hard is it to change the pump? Anybody able to tell me their experience in that? Or is it pretty straight forward? Is there a bleeder valve on the pump to get the air out after? Let me know guys, thanks.

  8. Remove the belt and inspect all of your pulleys for wobble. A failed pulley can do major damage to your engine and/or alternator.

    My car is a 97, it has 95000km on it. The noise was definetely coming from the power steering pulley when i had the belt rear engine cover off, I could definetely tell, so will replacing just the pulley fix this problem? I'm going to remove the belt this weekend, and check it all out and see what info I can find about this problem. Any other insight guys?

  9. My power steering pulley is making a really loud squeeking noise and want to know if I can change the pulley or is there a bearing assembly I can get with the pulley that will eliminate the noise caused by it beeing worn out, or do I have to buy a new power steering pump? I changed the drive belt, incase ppl are thinking thats the noise. Let me know guys thanks.

  10. I went over a bump and bent the backing plate on one of my rear rotors and now rubs, if I completely take this off to get rid of the rubbing as it is annoying as hell to bend back, will it do any harm to anything on my car? Let me know asap, thanks.

    The backing plate is a brake dust shield.

    No, it will not do any harm to remove it completely - it won't find the brake dust shields on dedicated track cars because it inhibits rotor cooling.

    I've seen, though, on this forum, several instances where guys have successfully "reshaped" their shields. If you take the caliper and rotor off, you will have a lot of room to re-bend it.

    I cannot remember for sure because I did it eons ago, but I think to remove the dust shields, you have to remove the wheel hub, which, without the proper tool, is a challenge.

    So, I think, you want to try and re- bend it first.

    Hopefully some of the guys that have done this can chime in.

    Ok thanks, yes i believe the hub does have to be removed, thanks for the info, but more replies are welcome if any additional info can be added. Thanks a lot.

  11. Hey, too bad your not able to access it to retrieve the part, i had to replace the whole rod with the socket, which is white now, they did infact change the colour of it, no sure how long ago it was. But all the sockets that fit over the ball are now white, mine was red aswell, the passenger side is still red. But if yours is white, it probablly means it was replaced before, I would look into this a little further something tells me it's not screwing in properly. Check the condition of the threads see if the prvious owner, or place that repaired it didn't strip the threads. Let me know how it goes. Hope this is the answer you were looking for.

    2003 Boxster S 3.2L Manual

    Several months ago I changed my air filter on my boxster. I accessed the engine compartment the usual way, and used the strap to hold up the top while I was in the engine compartment. Changed the filter and buttoned everything up.

    Afterward, I noticed my convertible top was a little mis-aligned; when I closed it, the drivers side didn't close all the way, leaving about a 2 inch gap. I thought maybe I had twisted or bent something while using the strap to hold the top up, as it did take some effort to put the strap in place. Messed around with it but couldn't see anything obvious. It didn't seem to be a big deal, as I could just reach up and pull it down with my left hand while latching with my right. Been like this several months now, and I put the top up/down half a dozen times a week, no problems.

    I recently got out the Bentley and decided to take a closer look to see if I could find anything, it was kinda nagging at me. Long story short, the "Convertible Top Drive Operating Link (red-tipped)" (Bentley name) was not even attached on the driver's side! The ball pin (part 986 561 879 00) and nut were gone. I found the nut down below near the drain hole. Apparently the ball pin fell thru the drain hole and tube and is long gone. I assume the nut was loose when I changed the air filter, and the stress of using the strap to hold open the top made the nut pop off the pin. The solution is simple; I just need to order a ball pin and install. But I have two questions:

    1) Bentley refers to the operating link as "red-tipped". Mine's not - it's white. Am I messed up here, or did they change the color?

    2) Have I done any permanent damage to anything? If I have, what is the most likely part to be damaged?

    Thanks

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