Izzy

Mufflers, you got to do the mufflers

Yes, no pics but have the 17 mm rear spacers and aftermarket 7mm fronts from H&R. The Porsche 17mm rear have studs and nuts, and the nuts are annodized black of lightweight alloy. I recommend getting spares as they can get cross threaded easily.

I got some Rejex last week and used it, two coats. First coat Friday, second on Saturday. Car was in garage the whole time. My first reaction was WOW, I like it much better than Eagle1 or NXT. The car and wheels have an great depth of color (basalt black metallic) and shine, better than wax. Used 1/2 of the small bottle.

The big test was today, tracking all day at a private event (small group) at CMP. I can't remember how many laps, but I went through 1 1/2 tanks of gas! Hot day, numbers on the car with small piece of tape on the leading edge. When I got home, washed the car, and it looked just as before the track. None of the nasty residue you get from rubber and other stuff on track was visible after the wash. This is a first for me, no other product did that before. The tape glue stayed on the door, but some minor rubbing with wax removed it immediately. That is new too, I kind of like Rejex, expensive, but good stuff, highly recommend it.

By the way, interesting sidebar. Early this morning a HELICOPTER landed on the paddock area, and Bobby Labonte and Dale Jarret came out, and from a unmarked trailer their new Car of Tomorrows unloaded with crew, ready for "shakedown". We shared the track and a few laughs with them, those stock cars are fast. **** fast. But no leather seating or CD players......

Use the search function and type "brake light switch", you will get all the info, and pictures

Long finger nails! Or a pair of tweezers. But to get to the seals, you have to remove the calipers and the plug off the break line going to the caliper so you don't leak the fluid.

Then you have to remove the pistons, a compressor set at a low pressure is needed, and a block of wood to prevent the pistons from hitting the metal or each other. This is not a simple task as the caliper has pistons on each side, and you have to balance them out as they are pushed by the compressed air and keep your fingers out of the way. Once the pistons are out, the rings are set in a groove inside the caliper, easy to see and remove.

If you have never done it, not a bad idea to do a google search for "caliper rebuild" and read through a series of instructions on how to do it before you tackle it.

Thanks Rattles. I did look in there then Ebay (had to do it) for Cross Beam Adapters. Not expensive, about $30-40 and mount on the jack, expand to 24-36 inches. I put a link to one of them below. Will do some research on it, and see if I get one, take some pictures, do some trials and repost examples. Probably will be after this weekend, I got father's day tracking to do.....

Izzy

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Ton-Floor-Jack-CROSS...1QQcmdZViewItem

Gang,

After a brief "off-line" talk with Viola, I believe my 99 cabrio had the same issue. I have been lifting it using the motor point with a hockey puck on the jack for a couple of years, at least once a month. One day the lift produced some dark fluid, the color or motor oil, but very low viscosity, cleaned like water. At first I thougth it was some dirty water since it had been raining, and I did not see any leaks. Also could not determine any smell from the fluid and cleaned like old coffee.

The next few times I had to jack the car, however, had the same effect. No more than a 1/2 cup to a cup of this liquid will come out when I applied the jack to the engine point. And the liquid will stop when I got the car on jack stands. I no longer have the 99, so could not go verify.

I have been using the same point on the 03 for lifting, but now thinking "where else can I get the jack to lift the car and not create anothe problem". Does anyone else have this problem? The liquid could be ignored as it is just like dirty water. Thanks

Izzy

Mike, cograts, have fun and drive fast. I can help with some:

1. yes, windshield

2. dunno

3. The dealer can order them, just need the vin number. You can also download the manual here in the "Quick menue" section

4. yes it is powered always

5. Check the sticker under the hood, bring the number to the "quick menue" and see the option look up, you can get all the factory options

6. no, not normal. something must be broken on the hinge. Do a search for fuel door, there is a diagram of all parts for the it in the website, somewhere....

Your problem has me worried, as I "tinker" with the car monthly, and can be putting it on jackstand 15-20 times a year. I have been using the engine point as a lift point also, and slide an old hockey puck to make the contact. I found this at the PCA site:

http://treffen.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_questi...4-F17A94BC49D0}

What caught my eye is the phrase "...it is permissible to do it at the engine, noting as you did to get to the strong part ahead of the flat sump area..", which is exactly what you did and what I think I have been doing. I am open to any other suggestions as to how to get the car in the air without spending $1500 on a lift.

Awesome, thank you. I was waitlisted for the last PCA. NASA HPD3 is not W2W, if you are ever inclined to try it. HPDE4 is combined with Time Trials so it gets hairy on turns 10A-B and 12. Can't wait to do the new asphalt. Thanks again

Izzy

Insite,

Having a hard time determining which seal I need from HRPWorld. Do you remember for front 996 which one it is?

I am partial to Pagid Oranges for track days, have had great luck with them. Also, going to Road Atlanta in August, try out the new surface. You drive it with PCA or NASA?

Boxstermao,

I finally got around to the dealer, as the brakes where fading worse on track. They tried a full flush thinking it was air on the system (using the PIWI), and it did not work. Next they recommended my front calipers are toast, and I need new ones. The pistons where not moving as they should and the seals shot.

I got the new ones Friday, ordered the Boxster S red calipers and installed them, got them centered on the calipers, and did another flush. Now it does seem to stop perfectly, have not done track time yet but going on the 6/18.

Now the old calipers I just cleaned up and removed the pistons. The boots where pretty shot, so I can see the issue. I will order new dust boots and take them to the dealer, see if they see anything else wrong. Otherwise, will either keep them as spares or sell them on Ebay, recoup the costs of the new ones. Sunset has them (red or black) for $365 plus shipping, my local gave me the same deal plus tax, so went with them. They are my track buddies anyway, and I owe them for their advise.

Hope this helps you, as a minimun try to clean them up and new dust boots. If you have the tools to remove them and a compressor to remove the pistons, it doesn't seem to be a big job.

Izzy

They look pretty cool, good job

Donovan,

So you don't buy the Butt-O-Meter measure tool? Me neither, but follow the link above the picture, has the dyno test in the website. I did, and it looks like max peak 20 hp gain at some point above 5K rpm. But for the rest of the powerband is closer to 4-5 hp (hard to read graph) increase, sometimes 10. What the dyno test did not cover is if the mufflers or intake where also modified or not, which could make a bigger difference.

Is this your 2001? What mileage on it? Is the engine oil looking thin or "frothy" when you change it? If the above doesn't work (getting the air out), may be a different problem.

Brickman, before doing all of that, there is a notoriously faulty switch on the handbrake that goes bad. I had mine replaced for the new model. It may not be the light but the switch. Does your top operate?

Just make sure they are Porsche wheels. If not, you have to take into account different wheel offsets from other manufacturers. Also the bolt pattern has to match the your car, 5 x 130 mm pattern or the bolt holes won't lign up.

How many miles on it? What year? You may need O2sensors

skan,

the last one is easy. There is a black switch on the middle of the dome lights where the a black hook goes when the top is closed. When the top is down, stick your finger in there and actuate the rear windows. Done deal. I got a small black plug from Autozone (50 cents) and stick it in there when the top is down. That way I can open and close the rear windows without having to put my finger in it.

I believe you can buy the tool at avarious places or a Porsche dealer. It is the plate with the pin that goes over the jack pad. Do a search in google for "996 jack pad" and you will find hundreds of lists. Ebay has a few listed as well, run you about $60.

Or you can use an old hockey puck......

Senor Diablo,

check out Schnell, they have the black tips already painted black, so if they don't work at least you can stand to replace them with warranty from them (www.vertexauto.com). Not sure about the bypass pipes, off-the counter you can get "appliance spray paint" at some stores, but I can't remember what the temp range is, I think if below 250 F for that paint, so it may peel off. On the other hand, cheap enough to retouch every once in a while.

Otherwise, you may need a professional deposition process as BD mentions.

Izzy

I have never used H&R, but did use Eibach springs on my 99 and loved the look and the ride. About 25 mm all around. the Eibach springs are also taller than the stock uncompressed. The load resistance is what makes it different.

I know have an 03 with M030. If you want the Eibachs let me know, I will be selling them shortly.

Izzy

I think that is what was meant by "gulluble", as in the ability to take-off like a gull? And not gullible.

Since it is posted in the 996 forum, then yes, get a 996 and hang on some GHL mufflers

I would go for a newer 911, Porsche certified if possible. For example, got my 03 coupe with 12K miles from a Porsche dealer, low 50's. Porsche warranty until 10/09. Had a 99 that I got for High 30s wiht 35K miles 3 years ago, and the 03 seems like a better car to me.

A Cayman S would be awesome (track car), low 50s or high 40s under 10K miles, if I didn't need the 911 back seat.