Izzy

Guys, is the below applicable to the MY 2K 996 cabrio? I'd like to perform this simple mod....and where's the particular relay located in the 996? I tested the hand brake and one click does the job in allowing the top to be operated but does it at all activate the emergency brake? Sure doesn't feel like it!

http://www.iq.dynip.com/~gary/hacks/cabrio/cabrio.html

Thanks,

PS BTW I just won a B&M STS on ebay so I'll be busy installing it when it gets here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...IBSAA%3AUS%3A11

The link for the pin 18 mod is for Boxsters. For the 996, you can purchase the unit from Wilhelmy ( http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3287 ) or you can cut the speed wire that goes to the convertible controller (pink and grey wire) and you are done. Here is the link from June 2003

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=38&hl=

The smarTop did not work for my car (1999), so I cut the wire and have been operating the top while moving ever since. Easiest mod.

I ended up removing the Fabspeeds, regardless of the dB meter, the wife meter was beeping. Realistically, too loud for crusing, the resonance was really unbearable to some neighbors asking me if I had a bad muffler. So I put the stocks back on.

Now, I installed GHL's, just bought them from Dave-G. His description was perfect for me, so I decided to try them out. Dave shipped them immediately, installed them this weekend. (Thanks again Dave)

I got to say, they are the perfect combination for me. Just a bit lower note than stock up to about 3500-4000 rpm, from there on up they sound just like the Fabspeed. The throttle response is pretty good too. I had noticed when I hung the stocks back after removing the Fabspeeds that the backpressure was quite different and throttle response harder.

So for now, I will spend a month with the GHL's. But first impression, they are good to stay.

Fabspeeds anyone before they go to Ebay?

Izzy

I have never seen it, but please let us know what the outcome is so we can all learn from your experience. Thanks

Glad to see I am not the only one that doesn't seem to have that problem. My 99 C2 can be sitting at the airport for a week, or at home when we are out for vacation for 10 days, and no problems starting at all. I would suggest that there may be some leakage to ground somewhere that is drawing from the battery, or bad contacts somewhere for the alarm system? The old trick of removing the fuses and seeing where the bad circuit is can be handy.

For a potential quick-fix, try this:

Our Honda Odyssey on the other hand, would go dead after a couple of days (even when new), nearly a few hundred mamps draw when locked (common according to the dealer). Fixed that after enough dealer "that's the way it is" with a $50 new battery. BUT I change the CCA (cold cranking amps) from the stock 480 to 1000. The new battery box is the same, just a more powerful battery. Problem solved, never went dead again

Tim,

Have you tried the battery disconnect and window re-teach yet? I recently had to do that after disconnecting the battery for the MAF cleaning (and thanks again for your help on that). Just wondering if some memory or prox sensor problem......

Izzy

Ross, wondering if there are any parts that could be geting hung or may need lubrication, if it is only 1/2" off. Or one of the braces may have gotten bent? Just seems like a lot of dough for that problem.

One final word on this thing. Never did get the dB meter, but the wife meter did peaked out. Actually, after 3 months, had to remove the Fabspeeds. The sound is, to copy a word from another thread, too "ricer" boy racer. I may keep them for track days, the car feels a bit quicker. But the sound is just too loud, borderline obnoxious.

Richard,

I have since added the Fabspeed mufflers and put back in the resonator or muffler in the airbox. It was too loud withtout it. Just a sound trick if you do not have the sports muffler

As for the grill, your choice if you want to remove or not. It has been a while since I instructed Fluid Dynamics for compressible fluids in the old engineering school, but I can't imagine that grate, so close to the MAF, lowering the values or Reynolds number. Laminar flow would not give the best flow anyway, turbulent higher pressure flow would increase volumetric. I think it is just there to prevent the gerbils or other critters from getting to the MAF?

It is a pretty thick area, if you add up the small lattice, so for me removing did allow more air to the combustion chamber. Also, more sound. Vroom vrooom stuff, that is all that it meant to me.

They do go belly up after some time. Mine (from a 99) lasted until a few months ago. Then you have to replace the FOB. I got mine from Sunset, then take them to the local dealer for programming. Save a bundle doing it that way.

But before you do anything else, there is a "reset" I learned from the guys at Sunset too. Here is what you do:

1. Remove the battery from the unit and wait ten seconds

2. Reset the battery upside on the unit, press the button to activate for 2-3 seconds

3. Remove the battery, wait 10 seconds

4. Reset the battery right side up and see if it works.

You can repeat at least twice. If that doesn't do it, then the FOB may be indeed dead and you need a new one. Funny thing, my spare one died about a week after my main one. And I only used my spare one on weekends. So it must not be a click count that kills it, just age.

Izzy

1 Amp, should have a leak somewhere. Car closed and alarm on, I thought it would be in the 10-20 milliamp range?

Do you know what kind of air filter was in the airbox? There has been some discussion in this forum about K&N and other oiled filters that over time can cause a fault in the MAF. The fix seems to be to clean the MAF filament with an electronic cleaner spray.

Would be another inexpensive thing to try before shelling out the dough for a new MAF.

I had the same issue with my 99, and the coolant level was a little low, only 1/2 a cup. That much less volume and some "spirited driving" will send the light to blink. I found the small coolant leak, parts on order.

Navin,

Some old neighbors of mine did have a similar situation, and extended the garage "backwards", almost having a double deep garage. It was architectured too look like the house, and no neighbors complained. It actually looked very nice, you can put more junk back there too. They ended up heating that room and it was sort of a workshop/garage for winter. It gets cold in KC.

Izzy

I heard the clicks when I did that, but the passenger side is still malfunctioning when I open the door. Also I noticed if I push the window down to that certain amount after I open the door, it will go back up correctly when I close it. (???) Thanks for that idea though. Is that to reset the limits after a battery disconnect or something similar?

Something like that. It had worked for me, but had to do it 2-3 times in a row. The battery diconnect is not a bad idea either, cheap to do. Just make sure you have the radio codes, and leave the battery off for 5-10 mins.

Try this short trick just in case.

Open the window all the way down using the one-touch.

When down hold the down buttons on both windows for about 3 seconds.

Close the widowns using the one-touch.

Hold down the close buttons for both windows for about 3 seconds. You should hear a faint "click" sound.

Repeat the process twice.

Now see if the windows are working properly and lowers when opening the door.

Izzy

Wanted to know if anyone has ever changed the coolant valve that regulates the flow for the ATF cooler. The valve is leaking in my 99 Cabrio, and even though it is about 1/2 cup every other week, it is worrisome as it can get bigger. I could smell the coolant when the engine got hot, but not loosing too much.

After taking the rearmost undercover off, I could see where it is leaking from.

I will order the parts from Sunset this week and get it done this weekend, take pictures, etc. But wanted to know if there are other brave souls out there who have done this so I can rely on their wisdom. Thank you

Izzy

I got Kumho Ecsta Supera 712 on the rears about 1000 miles ago, and put in full day of track at VIR. I was replacing Hankook K104's. Still have the 104s in front, the car handles great, and the tracking was just as good. NTB has them for $162.

Izzy

Took my car to the dealer for 30k service and the roof started working again (park light ok) and the dealer reported no issues. However 2 months later the roof has locked in the down position. No handbrake light with flashing dash light. This time however the door key does not operate the roof, so now I am thinking could be the same as Izzy's thread.

However with a completely inoperable top how do I open the panel it to access the reservoir? Does the allen key method previously described (one turn each side) open the panel?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark,

If I read correctly, you have no parking (hand) brake light? That could be the handbrake switch. Otherwise, I would advise on the fluid fill, which was the same symptoms. Follow the link above and will take you to a step by step.

Make sure the fuse is good, the engine lid is fully closed, get the easy stuff out of the way first.

To get your top to move up, follow the emergency procedure in the owners manual. I recall you have to remove the back seat panel cover (no biggie, two phillips screws). There you will find an Allen wrench. Insert the wrench into the nut as shown in the manual, and give it a 1/2 or full turn in the direction shown. What it does is start the process so the hydraulic system does not have to overcome the fully closed postion. Then use the dash switch to continue the process the rest of the way.

That procedure got me out of trouble a few times until I discovered the reservoir and how easy it was to fill up.

If you don't have the owners manual, let me know. I can get to it later tonight.

Izzy

Good-day Izzy-

It sure seems that our car's are sisters....as they keep having the same issues. :help:

My top is now acting up and stalling in either direction. The motor is running, but sounds "louder", so I am thinking that this may be due to low hydraulic fluid as you mentioned in the post. This weekend, I plan to try out your method. I have a few questions...

First, my stereo takes up the backseat area and is a pain to remove. It sounds like you are able to access the reservoir from the rear area (where the floded top sits). Is this correct? I do not need to remove the panel just behind the rear seats?? This would be great news!

Second, Is this on the drivers side, or passenger side? Are there "fill lines"??

Third, fluid -- any ol' hydraulic fluid will work you think?

Fourth, ever take any more pic's??

As always, thanks!!!!

-Tim

Tim,

You are in luck, here is the step by step write up with pictures in the DIY section:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6967

The reservoir is accessed through the area where the top folds, and there are no fill lines. But you can get yourself set up with $2 and a CVS drugstore nearby.

I used John Deere fluid, not Porsche. It has been a couple of months of trouble free running, so my decision so far so good.

As a mechanical engineer involved in design, I have a hard time thinking that a fluid was created just for this hydraulic system. The engineers would have been fired if they did that, in my experience.

The pics and write up are pretty cool, but let me know if you need more, I took more pics.

It does sound like the fluid problem, the way you describe it.

Izzy

Thanks for the help guys. I opened the top and looked over the seals and, like everything else on the car, they looks brand new. I'll give Gregg's trick a try.

Thaks again,

Jim

Jim,

I did the same thing in my Cabrio when I got it. The kids where in the car so they thought it was funny that it rained inside Daddy's car. The pressure of the touchless was too much. Then............ I read the owners manual, where I learned that you are NOT supposed to take it to any automatic car wash. I have stayed away since.

Also have been caught in torrential windy downpours, raining sideways, and no leaks. But the car wash will do it to the convertible. Just my 2 cents

Izzy

Replace asap because your rubber ( pun intended ) is going to be as hard as a well...a brick and is not going to be pretty good in stopping and other things such as driving at speed or maneuvering.

Harry is right. Wear is not the only thing to consider. Your tires must be about 7 years old. Have a look at the DOT-number on the sidewall of the tire. It will tell you which week and year they were made. For example "228" would be 22 week in 1998. IMHO tires should be changed after 4-6 years.

Thorsten

Don't wait until winter which can make it worse too. The elastomers in the compound will outgas over time and exposure to UV rays, making the tire more brittle. Cold temps can make the brittleness worse. So besides the mileage, age will affect a tire.

Here is something from this link

http://www.conti-nline.com/generator/www/u...ire_life_en.pdf

"The tire industry has long recognized the consumer’s role in the regular care and maintenance of their tires. The point at which a tire is replaced is a decision for which the owner of the tire is responsible. The tire owner should consider factors to include chronological age, service conditions, maintenance history, storage conditions, visual inspections, and dynamic performance. The consumer should consult a tire service professional with any questions about tire service life. The following information and recommendations are made to aid in assessing the point of maximum service life."

The Valentine V1 is the best I had. I had used Cobra, Escort, Uniden, etc. Got the V1 shortly after I got my 911, and it is worth every penny. Road & Track has a recent comparison, you can search their website and see the whole article with the "real life" situations results. V1 trumps the rest.

Today I was doing the fuel filter and oil change on my 99 996 Cabrio. When I removed the rear cover under the car to remove the fuel filter, found this part that seem to be wet. When I squeezed it, saw coolant bubbles coming out of it. Can anyone identify it? I could not find it in my manuals.

I have added a cup of coolant about 3 weeks ago, so not a big leak. But like any big leak, will get bigger is I don't fix it. Pictures below:

Thank you

Izzy

The first time I did it, having the wheels off and the car on jacks helped to see where everything was, and to let my fat hands get to the nuts.

Second time, wheels stayed on, no problem getting to the nuts after you figure out best angle of attack for your arms/tools.