Izzy

I was holding from replacing my fuel filter (I am at 50K miles) until I read the outcome of your dilemma. It looks like it was painful, but I thank you for sticking with it and posting the results as many of us can benefit and learn. Thanks again, I will be doing this weekend.

Was the check valve replaced or just had to be unstuck?

Tom,

That is exactly what I experienced, to the letter. The fix I described worked perfectly so far. I may have to add a little more hydraulic, as it hesitates once in 20 cycles. But nothing like it used to, which again is exactly as you described.

The John Deer fluid seems to be working fine so far, and the Children's medicine syringe with the little hose trick made it easy to fill the reservoir. It was a pain to get the screw back in, otherwise, and easy fix.

I will take some pics this weekend if I top off the reservoir.

Izzy

Hey, that is a unique plate, never seen it done that way, great imagination. I also see the reflection on the bumper of the truck with the big ole tires. Doing some muddin' I take?

I noticed my 996 dashboard "comes alive" with the key just inserted. It is all black or "off" when the key is off. So with the key in, it is drawing some amperage. Don't know how much, but it can be enough to drain the battery.

I had a similar problem with the Honda Odyssey, and they key in or one reading light left on. In 2-3 hours the battery would be dead. I replaced the original battery (485 CCA) with a new 1000 CCA and the problem has been solved for a couple of years. The kids still leave a light on and it doesn't bother the battery. The original battery was a year old when replaced. Honda wouldn't do a thing to fix it since it was a common problem with all Odysseys.

So, where is this nice 911 with the key in the ignition?

Just kidding, but I always think of the explanation to the cops or the insurance company "well, I left the key in the ignition....." Even though I live in a nice low crime area, my car is garaged and alarmed for both house and garage doors, won't leave the keys there. Growing up in Miami, you see......

I have had Hankooks K104 front and back on 18 in rims. 5 track days so far this year, and 15K miles on the the tires. The Rears where gone, the front are still excellent. The fronts performance are very good, great traction and turning on track days, great handling in the wet too.

The rears I just changed to Kumhos Ecta Supra 712, to see if they last longer than the Hankook in the back. So far (500 miles) I have been inpressed with the dry traction of the Kumho.

Not bad on the wallet either. Tire Rack has them, but NTB got the same price without worring about shipping and install. Same tire and rating.

You will find many opinions here. another place to look is in:

www.epinions.com

Izzy

Sorry, my miss. I am not sure, but did a quick search at the PCA website and found this. Someone else was trying it. Seems doable, but you may need other parts (shims, harness, etc) listed here to make the change.

Another option, ask the dealer and see if you can talk to one of the techs, and if they can tell you what parts are needed for the change. Hope this helps

http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...6-FE28063B2FE2}

I have also read that it is a bolt on. One place who may know for sure is the LA Dismantler. They also sell the units, may save you a few bucks. Let us know how you make out.

Izzy

I did it about a month ago, and the Schnell cold air intake. Not sure if more HP, but the throttle response did change. Significant enough that I spun out a couple of times at the track, didn't have the new timing right.

The convertible top starting acting up again, intermittently not coming up or not completing the closing operation. Same symptoms I had before and have seen others describe as well. So I follow another link describing the hydraulic fluid reservoir location:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=convertible

Removed the 5 mm Allen bolt and used a syringe (from drugstore, used for measuring children's medicine) and a short hose.

I added hydraulic fluid. If you do it at night, place a powerfull flashlight on the driver side of the translucent pump reservoir. The fluid is golden color, and you can see how high it is. I added 2.5 teaspoons of, here is the heretic comment, so stop reading if you are a purist, John Deer Transmission and hydraulic fluid, HY Gard, used in JD low viscocity hydraulic systems.

After putting everything back together, I open and close the top several times (about 10), the previous hesitation is gone. It is perfectly operational now.

I know it is not the pure Porsche fluid, but I got tire of going to the dealer for the same thing. My background is mechanical engineering, postgraduate work in particle pinning mechanics. Not rheology or chemistry. But I did a lot of work in fluid dynamics, a lot of viscous system calculations both theoretical and application based. I had to try this, I can't imagine the JD oil "attacking" the Porsche fittings and seals in revenge, causing major hemorrage of the top system. We'll see soon enough. If this works, and the $2.99 quart of JD hydro fluid is as good as the $25 Porsche, will let you know. Otherwise, back to the dealer with the "I don't know what happened" face.

it should be below those codes.  it should say something like body color.  those codes are the options, not the colors.

post everything it says on the sticker.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Your hood sticker should look something like this:

untitled.bmp

the large bolded L3AZ corresponds to the paint color location. The paint is the 3AZ number for mine. Once you get it, look in the Carrera Paint Colors link above and you will get it.

Izzy

You should try buying the parts yourself from Sunset Auto, link is on the top. The parts do sound overpriced, but then again I only buy from Sunset and they are typically 60% what the local dealer charges.

I got some new information on the Fabspeed mufflers. Friday was track day, a generous track day at CMP in South Carolina. Some wet tracking, some dry tracking. Most of the time running 2-3 gear at over 5-7K rpm continuously. Odometer read about 135 miles total track - and most high rev.

With the helmet on, you can't hear much anyway. But the interesting information came after the track. Went out for dinner to a friends house, and it WAS a noticeable reduction in the sound. My wife and friend who were not in the track noticed first, then I noticed.

I do remember the strong smell of "new car muffler" burning after every track time, so the hypothesis of "burning them in" may have some validity.

Even with the top down, listening to the radio is fine now, almost as good as stock. But when you stomp on the gas, you get the sweet snarly sound that says "I am all business back here".

Still have not found a dB meter, but do have at least one data point here, when brand new and torqued to Porsche specs, the radio was useless and sounded like the cheap rice burner boy racer. Now torqued down tight and after some tracking work, it is generally normal (meaning stock-like) sounding around town. I can get used to this......

I just had the very similar issue with the temp light this morning. It was flashing after a fast acceleration run, when I stopped at the end of a highway ramp. The outside temp was around 65F, the temp needle between the 8 and the 0, normal conditions.

No coolant leaks, the tank is the latest model. Coolant level is just above min.

The fan check above:

"For info: If you want to test the operation of the engine compartment fan, unplug the 2 wire connector from the engine compartment temp sensor located on Bank 2 just recessed on the top of the engine rightside between the intake ducts. The fan should immediately turn on. You can do this just with the ignition key on and engine not running."

Did this check and the fan did not turn on at all. Is this a real check or not?

I plan on getting some coolant tomorrow from Porsche and fill to MAX line, but before I order a new fan if that is the culprit, wanted to know if anyone has tried the verification above, or any other tricks.

Thank you

Icy

I will keep you in mind, Sean.

Did torque the cat sleeves to about 55 ft lbs (from 34 ft lbs in manual), and tighten all other bolts as hard as I dared without causing a break. Vibration is gone, and it did improve the "harshness" of the sound some. It is raining today, so may not be able to really tell how they are with top down. May keep them another couple of weeks and decide. If they "mellow out" the sound would be actually good. Still looking for one of our techs with a sound meter and get some readings new and after 1000 miles. See if we can disprove the theories.

I may keep them longer, nut sure yet.

Surgeon, can you articulate the relative difference between GHL and Fabspeed?

My reference point has only been PSE's. They sound to me about 2/3's the resonance of the Fabspeed, more "discreet", and deeper ie lower octave sounding. The Fabspeed website sound is almost close to the PSE's I heard. The Fabspeed I have are more like the "ridiculous Honda with the coffee can on the muffler" sound.

If I keep them longer and start loosing my hearing, might not be able to hear my wife complaining..... No, wait, that's bad, isn't?

I am going to Carolina Motorsport Park (Kershaw) on Friday to track (or "a round of golf", like I tell the boss), will let you all know if the sound did mellow-out afterwards. Thank you all

Izzy

Thank you Bob and Don. I will be checking all the bolts, and re-torquing further to make sure they are tight.

Worse case, it is too loud for a Cabrio, and I will order PSE's and sell the Fabspeeds on E-bay. I will see if I can borrow a decibel meter and post results.

Don,

I torque the bolts to 22 ftlbs and the cat sleeves to 34 ftlbs. Do you recollect if you had to go further than that?

The ears that hold the mounting bracket where a little odd, the short bolt one was very snug to the bracket, the long one was about an inch long. When I torque that one down I could see the ears bend a bit.

Did send an e-mail to Joe yesterday, waiting to hear back from him hopefully today. Thanks for your input.

Izzy

Okay, after a few days of running withe mufflers, they are loud. Not always pleasant loud, but raw. Not sure if they are correct. Also, there is a lot more vibration in the car, vibration you can feel under acceleration.

For those who have put in Fabspeed before, is this normal? How loud should they be?

Loren, I 've found that licking the hub before mounting the tire also adds adhesion. Just leaves a funky after taste.

Kidding aside, the real friction comes from the normal force (pressure) the bolts exert on the hub. That is what keeps the wheel in place, Coulumb friction. There is more to the story with microasperities in the friction equation through Amonton's principle.

But PLEASE, use the bolts and torque to the 94 ftlbs.

They where $895 plus shipping. I reused the tips. With tips would have been $995. If I thought I could have sold my tips for $125 or so on Ebay, I would have gotten them. But didn't look like they where worth that much and they are in pretty decent shape.

I recommend you call around for pricing to Fabspeed dealers. They can give you pricing. For example, direct from Fabspeed without tips are $995. So $100 better.

I may be checking out the Schnell from VertexAuto, and compare quality, etc.

At a glance, the Schnells seem to have a lot of surface carburation on the welds. When welding stainless on a non-oxigen purged environment, you can get the high carbon to come up to the surface, an rust can ensue like any other steel without protection. Fabspeed welds are clean, and seemed like manually cleaned (some cleaning paste still on the welds) with a power tool.

Regardless, the sound is cool. Maybe to loud for long trips, will let you know when I drive to VIR for a track day in November.

Izzy

Just finished installing Fabspeed mufflers in the 1999 C2 Cabrio. Started last night to "prep" around 9 pm, lifting the car, getting wheels off, etc.

Next started to see how difficult it would be.... tinkering with removing the nuts. Before I knew it, had the first muffler off and the the new one on, so figured just did the second one too. All done in less than 2 hours!! Pretty easy to do. Car was ready for my 6:30 am Starbucks run (aka empty highway on a Saturday). Sweet sound.

The sound is fantastic. Now I have the airbox mods done and the muffler with higher output, must have gained about 350 HP, right? But the sound is great, and the torque faster to respond, noticeable. I also noticed the tips stick out further with the Fabspeed, about an inch more.

Followed Lorens instructions for removal and install of the mufflers, easy as pie.

Got the mufflers from PowerTech in NJ, lowest price I can find and a real dealer for Fabspeed (I checked with Fabspeed).

Izzy

I had the same in my 1999 radio. According to the Becker US person I spoke with, the only solution is to get a new face plate. I didn't ask the price, but figure it wouldn't be worth it.

If you go forth, and get a price, let us know. Thanks

If all you are doing is replacing the two rubber knobs, all you got to do is pull them off. A small plastic spatula help get it started for me, but then is an interference fit, pull out the old one, push in the new one.

They are standard 1 1/2 inch PVC fittings. I painted the top black, it blends in with the airbox.

Just sent you a PM with the relay location for the flasher. See if this works.