Izzy

Alan, when you say upgrading ride quality, you are looking for more softer ride (ala Buick) or more firmer/precise ride? Will make a big difference on spring rates and shock dampeners. One quick check is the air pressure on the tires, lower pressure more spongy ride, higher pressure more firm. Just have to watch out for uneven tire wear if you lower too much.

Gus,

what he means is to close the valve more if you see a lot fo bubbles. I used to do the same mistake and would go through 2+ bottles of fluid for every bleed. If you see a lot of bubbles, close the valve then open the with only 1/4 turn. The bubbles should now be the ones in the system only

There are instructions on how to do the same thing without the kit somewhere here in Renntech. All I used was a short 18 gage piece of wire (a jumper) between the two fuse locations (can't remember which ones) and you are done. My car had for a few years and never had any issues with it.

http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/drl/

Depends on how deep you want to go, these I have found to be quite decent. And the price is even better:

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

I spent some time trying to "engineer" (aka jury rig) a simple lap timing system that would be accurate, hands free, and not cost $1000 like Trackmate (since I am not a pro at this).

The following setup works great for me, so sharing the information with all. The components you need are:

"The HOLUX M-1000 Bluetooth GPS Receiver is a total solution GPS receiver with Bluetooth, UART interface and built-in rechargeable battery for high sensitivity to tracking signal. M-1000 is a dual-function GPS receiver." Runs for about $45 in Ebay, with car charger. You can buy a carphone cradle at any automotive store or Walmart for about $10 that will hold it in.

The palm TX is one of the latest gens palm pilots. Big screen, great color, Wifi, bluetooth, all the cools stuff. It connects to the bluetooth Holux receiver. You can find more about in www.palm.com. I got mine at ebay for about $240. I use the device to track all my car maintenance information, and it is a great travel toy with the wifi full internet. I loaded it with the www.autoenginuity.com plam code reader too, so one device serves many purposes. Alos, many tracks offer Wifi, making it a nice toy to bring. You will need a suction cup pda holder, $10 or less at wallymart or ebay.

http://www.gps-laptimer.de/

The lap timing software from Germany, it is very cool, go through their website and look at the screen shots. Very easy to use, intuitive, and klutz friendly. I have used it to drive around a neighborhood loop, works perfectly. Will be on track with it next week. Cost for this is $29.

So if you have a new palm, phone or pda, with bluetooth, all you need is the gps receiver and the software and you have a great and simple system to track your lap times, map a course, see the g-forces around the track, acceleration points, brake points, etc. It cost me more since my old Palm M505 is obsolete.

Enjoy and let me know if you need help setting it up.

I would recommend only getting a CPO or warranty car. Just IMO. I have had a 99 and an 03. They are awesome cars, no doubt, and I enjoy driving it every day as driving them or tracks. But... Without CPO, I would have bought a new transmission (or at least a couple of synchros) last week. CPO will not cover everything, like caliper rebuilding, but will cover the main things that can cost you an arm.

I had a small grinding sound going into third gear, and Porsche suggested the new transmission under warranty, now it shifts perfectly.

I do track the car 30-40 days a year, and realize that when CPO runs out I am getting a newer one or see if they sell extended warranty at dealer.

I have had a couple, one is Autoengenuity for palm, and OBDII Reader for palm. I have had no problems with the palm or pocket pc version, Vette, not sure if the issue was the laptop one. Regardless, sounds like they treated you badly. I have had a few emails unreturned from them, but for the most part no issues.

I like the palm one because it gives me more toys to play with. A palm M505 would do the trick. I now have a new palm TX with the Autoenginuity and a lap timer loaded into it. So I use the PDA for all car stuff, maintenance logs, etc. I take it to the track and the WiFi works as well to stay connected.

I will post the lap timer set up in a different post.

Greg,

going from my memory on my 99 Tiptronic, it is normal. Going from Second to 1st.

I tried just changing the springs on my 99 cabrio. Used Eibach springs all around, for about $300 (DIY project) the car lowered about an inch all corners, ride quality "felt" close to stock. But I did notice driveway scraping of front more noticeable.

I have the M030, the US version, and the ride quality is much stiffer, and great for track days.

Congratulations Will! Hope mama and baby are healthy. When you getting out to CMP for a run?

Izzy

This is what the tubes and tube with ring look like:

It does make it easier to remove the rear wheels, bumper, heat shield, mufflers. To my banana fingers it makes the job enjoyable, and only adds about 1hr time to a DIY like me.

To get the tubes out, you can use a tool like the one below. All you do is insert the custom designed red part into the tube (without the spark plug in), and pull the special metal protrusion away from the engine. It is part number 996-izz-y34-001, for sale from me for $187.34 ;) .

Here is one resource many 911 drivers have used:

Porsche High-Performance Driving Handbook By Vic Elford, ISBN 0760327548.

This one is the 2008 version, and will help you with a lot of these questions people take for granted. I have the previous version of the book and it is excellent. This new one has 996-7 and Cayman/boxter driving.

No question is a joke here, all good and more often than not, questions that others have simply not asked yet. Welcome to the site and to owning a 911. Will make you smile, will make you cry.....

You need the bumperttes. Have you seen a moose up close yet? B)

pj

have you done the clutch hydraulic fluid bleed when doing the brake fluids? That is the first thing that comes to mind to try first.

You can download the owners manual from the "Documents" section above, will answer all your questions on the subject. Also, there is someone in Ebay that sells the switch and a kit for the rear spoiler. Do a search here, you will find plenty of instructions and pictures to go along. Congrats on the new wheels.

Gang,

Just got this via email, looks like they are having a decent sale. I was thinking of the headers or tips. I am just sharing the information I got.

http://www.vertexauto.com/blowout18/010708.html

Here is a link to manuals in the UK. Maybe the ones that used to sell in Ebay for $20, now they are just a download - no fee.

I would want to find out who else has installed them from the Ebay buyers, and contact that person to get an idea of sound, fitment, etc. Most people I have reached out on Ebay are pretty willing to tell you their experience, good or bad.

On the other hand, it would not be my style to have that on the rear of the car. I Know we all have different tastes...

No, no gaskets. I have some of the instructions in the DIY section with pictures showing the process

There is an article this month on Grass Roots Motorsports magazine about plus sizing wheels/tires and their effect. It was done in conjunction with Tire Rack and they did a plus zero (16" rims), plus one (17"), and plus 2 (18") on a BMW 325i. It is only a few pages, perhaps worth it to pick up a copy and read it. Their results was plus one as the best, so if the car stock is 17", that would be 18". The car used was a BMW, not a 911, but it is more information to help you decide.

The only way I know how is to use fresh dampeners with the adhesive intact as Scott suggested. But in my opinion and experience, one good track day or 2 will remove the adhesive anyway as your brakes will get pretty hot. I use Hawk Blues for tracking too, and find them excellent so far. But I do change back to Mintex for street and they don't squeal even with dampers unglued. The hawks will sound like an old school bus around town, not the attention you want to get....

Excellent, that is exactly what I got, thank you again.

RFM, thanks for the clarification. When you mention "coils strait up", you don't mean veritically, right? The coils are still on the side of the engine, horizontally opposed. I will look for the 2 cam sensors. Anything different about the engine that you know about? Thanks again

Izzy

Ahsai, I had the same problme this weekend doing my spark plugs, 03 C2. I ended up bending the rear side of the shield to get it out. It is just sheetmetal, bends back up after re-install. The passenger side did come right out....

I recently did my 30K mile service on my 03 C2 coupe. What I did notice when replacing the spark plugs, the hole where the plug goes in is solid metal. In other words, no platic tubes. I have replaced the tubes in my 99 before, so have a pretty good idea what they look like. So question is, does anyone know if any 3.6L engines have no plastic tubes? The engine is not original, it was replaced by Porsche before I purchased the car from a PCNA dealer. Thanks

Izzy