Izzy

You may want to do a search by "muffler" or "air intake", as there are a ton of posts in here with different combinations and opinions.

Phil,

yes, the car has to be up to get to the fill port, and the transmission fluid has to warm and between 30-40 Celsuis I believe. Too cold or hot will create over or under filling. If you have never changed the ATF fluid and filter, it is very likely due.

But also take the car where you can read the codes from the OBDII, a place like Autozone, Pepboys, etc. The transmission will have codes that won't trigger a CEL. If you have codes, come back and post them and we can help you troubleshoot.

It may be the pressure regulators that are not working right, and to replace them is about $220 for parts (I had to do one once). Don't get to the gearbox yet, do the simpler things first, like the speed sensor, etc. But do get the codes if you have any also.

I would first use windex and some paper towels, then water and paper towels to clean them up.

You are correct, the original intake tube has the two connections and the mod by Blueline works for that. I changed to a smooth nylon pipe from a cold air intake upgrade from Schnell. You can get it at

www.vertexauto.com

and they sell on Ebay as well, about $100.

Just got them Chuck, and so far is more of the "new toy syndrome". I will take them off primarily to not attract attention to my daily driver. I rarely cary passengers, and when I do, usually my young boys who absolutely love the "race car sound". You can hear the radio fine, no problem. You can't when you are accelerating hard. Otherwise it is a drone in the background kind of sound. What sold me was the $200, can't beat that for the grins and the ability to set off car alarms on the mid-90s Honda Civics (boy racers) on the parking garage.

Really got them for track days, not sure if there is any gain in HP, but the aceel response feels lighter, quicker. In the end, like taping a baseball card on the bike forks back in 1971, making that old sound boys like.

Have stocke headers. What headers you got and where you get them? Cost? I am cheap

This past weekend I installed muffler bypass pipes on the 2003 C2 coupe. First impression, they are LOUD. But cool loud for me. Awesome sound on the highway, high RPM, high speed.

This is the units I got, $199 at Ebay, and they look truly amazing, shiny.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=230184398298

Installation is quick, I will see about putting some pictures on later. Removed the mufflers and replace them with the pipes. The unit states that you can re-use stock clamps, but you can not. I got $2 clamps at Autozone, and done deal, works perfect. The install took me 45 mins for the first time. So will get it down to 30 mins to add to my track day setup (wheels and brake pads) changeover.

The sound and vibration reminds me of the Fabspeed mufflers at idle and low RPM. But incredible sound above 3500 RPM on 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears. Anyway, cheap thrills and giggles for a few days, looking forward to VIR in 2 weeks.

Glad it worked out. I forgot to say your top may be low on hydraulic fluid, not you. You never know when someone will drink that stuff :beer:

Reach between the seat back and the side bolsters

Should be able to move it a bit and remove the support, or moving it up or down for better confort. Some members have added foam as additional support as well.

The reason I was asking about the mileage was for the O2 sensors. Not out of the ordinary to need replacing past 60K. They run about $120 if cleaning doesn't do the trick.

I would start with cleaning the MAF. Do a search and you will find a good bit of information on cleaning MAF. That doesn't do it, you may need new O2 sensors, which are easy to do if you have to. Close to or over 60K miles?

Look in the DIY, sounds like you are low on hydraulic fluid.

You can try this site in the UK, I have downloaded some

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

First you should try to see if you have some fault codes stored with an OBDII reader (many autostores will lend you one to use in their lot). Hopefully will get you something on fuel delivery (filter, injectors) that you can clean or replace easily.

On your first question, try getting the latest models with the lowest miles you can afford.

The 9K Mile 1999 model may have issues lurking that have not yet occured due to low miles, RMS failure, block porosity comes to mind. There are no free lunches.

On your first question, try getting the latest models with the lowest miles you can afford.

Could be the switch from your description. You can remove it and cross the wires to close the circuit. Switch would be about $35.

Looks like regions differ in what they do and how they operate. Best thing to do is to join ($42 is not much) and see if it is worth it for you and your style. I have been very pleased with the local club, lots of DE and "car days". But agree with Geoff, it is the networking that is perhaps the biggest payoff. Has been for me anyways. I don't attend the social events, but you can still get to know a lot of people and, you never know when that connection will come in handy in a professional situation.

Izzy

ps, "The little black book of networking" is a good book too if you are not an extrovert, by Gitomer.

The 996 is the right board for the 911. I love my 2003, it has been a great car. Had a 1999, was also great, but hte 2003 just feels better, as it has a bit more power and different headlights.

Chuck, gents, look at this one from two weeks ago down here near our local track of Kershaw, SC. My understanding is that the power steering line was pinched, and leaking fluid. Driving home after some tracking the steering was getting worse, pulled over on the dry (no rain in 2 months here) grass shoulder and caught fire. He had an extinguisher, but inside the trunk and could not get it. Owner is not hurt from what I know.

Anyways, I bolted the Porsche FE bracket and a 1 lb halon unit right to the bracket on the passenger seat. Looks out of the way and still easy to get to.

I got the 17mm rear GT3 spacers, and 5mm upfront. Car looks great to me.

I got this 52 mm bolts and they came with the cone washers.

http://www.automotion.com/productpage.aspx...p;vehicle=29803

Gotcha,

It looks similar to the one I did then. I used 1 1/2" pvc threaded nipple and cap. Painted the cap black and it looks like it "belongs", with the ridges almost lining up to the airbox ridges . Also, a 2" rubber gasket on the outside seals it perfectly.

Any concerns with unmettered air flow into the engine?

Thanks, I think relative values are very useful, even though they are not absolute or exact. Again, thank you for doing all of these and sharing with us!