Izzy

Look at the owners manual for the infrared sensor location inside the cabin. If you do not have the manual, you can dowload it from the Quick Menu above

Yes, did it myself. I have step by step instructions in the DIY section. If you got the car with 75K miles, chances are it really needs a fluid/filter change. Not sure how much the dealer charges, but if you have the tools and the inclination, look in:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6203

I changed my ATF and filter at 45K, and it was worth it. Big difference in smoothness. I was under the impression that the 90K mile replacement cycle has the standard manufacturer disclaimer, to do the maintence twice as often if the vehicle is driven under harsh conditions. The harsh conditions typically include "stop and go traffic, low or high temperatures, dusty conditions, etc". Just a suggestion.

The other potential is pressure regulator 4, which controls the auto shifting from 4th-5th. I had to replace one also, the car was shifting late into 5th.

Doesn't sound right to me. At 80K, have you done the ATF and filter change?

AH! yes, go to the dealer with the picture, I have replaced the same part before. It should run about $150. You will need the tox bits and allen keys to do this job, but it is not hard.

Once you get hte part, you will find out that you can replace a smaller piece, but Porsche sells you the whole linkage. I recommend:

1. Remove the existing bracket

2. Take appart the bracket for only the broken piece

3. Remove the same piece for the new assembly

4. put the new piece into the old bracket

5. Reassembled into the car.

Should be about an hour worth of wrenching, will be simple once you get into it. The plastic covers just snaps out. Hope it works

Izzy

has anyone ever heard of any aftermarket applications that can be added to a hand held GPS to use it as a hot lap timer? Would seem that the hardware is there, just a matter of a "simple" program added to the GPS device so every time it hits the same spot it counts as a lap?

Your thoughts appreciated.

Kimike, check this out

http://www.mountguys.com/product_p/sr33-roadmate3000t.htm

it actually fits a cupholder and attaches to the Roadmate. I am ordering now. If I could only figure out how to make the Magellan Roadmate into a lap timing device....... Must be a way for software jockeys out there to do it.

I think it is normal, but I know some would disagree and blah blah blah about the transmission should work perfect always. The colder it gets, the more difficult 2nd gear will be until the powertrain wams up. But I have the same exact behavior on 3 diferent 996s.

Before I change the motor, I would get a second opinion. Maybe the clam shell motor from what you describe and not the hydraulic one. The clam shell is about $400. Low fluid, however, would be the first thing I would do. There is a wonderfully written DIY on that subject by a brilliant member.....

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6967

If you decide to do it yourself, it is fairly simple to do with a pressure bleeder. These guys have a good price on them right now.

http://www.apexperformance.net/cartgenie/p...ist.asp?scat=26

The instructions on how to bleed are on the DIY section. You could get that variable out of the equation and see what else is going on. However, if you are like me, I am always wondering "does the clutch feel lighter today?" "Do the brakes feel looser than last trip" etc, etc. Take it to dealer and everything is fine, so sometimes it is my head as a "car maintenance hypocondriac"

Halon fire extinguishers sources I have found:

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircra...tinguisher.html

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/halon1211.php

and:

http://www.h3r.com/

Another potential one is grounding. Is the system stock? May have been removed at some point and the ground has come loose.

I agree with Dan. I have the same bad habit, trying to shift gears like a GT driver. And I get grinding into 3rd. The synchros do take time to "synchro" when you depress the clutch. A few weeks ago at a VIR DE event, watching an onboard video with some guys, a former owner of a Porsche dealership commented on how fast the driver was shifting, and how much money he used to make with problem transmissions from guys who did that.

I took notice and started shifting a bit slower, it may add a second to my lap time overall, but it does "feel" a bit better to clutch-in, pause, change gear, accelerate and release clutch.

Just my opinion, don't want to offend any racers out there.

These work for me and provide enough space for oil and filter change, muffler change. I am not sure how much oil is left on the pan, but is is probably minimal. Also has a "hard stop" to prevent you from driving off the ramp.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...770&hl=ramp

Scott, I got about 3 of those at home, know what you are talking about. I did not have the same experience with those, then I read somewhere that those metal flat "H" belt locks are rated for child weight and impact. So my "water buffalo" weight exceeded the thing, and I still slid around and the belt lost it over 5-6 laps. Worth a try, but the CG Lock did the trick for me. How's that latin phrase go "buyer beware"?

Where you able to reset your calipers and get the noise out of the brakes? I am curious....

Let it cool down, the little plastic post will stay up for while if you where running up to temp.

Gang

Wanted to share a seat belt locking device that I tried yesterday at VIR :drive: . I have stock seats and seat belt, and was thinking about a racing seat and harness, but I drive my car daily and often have to wear a suit to work. Not an easy decision. At VIR, CDOC runs the track store, they also have online sales at http://www.cdoc.com . I went in the store and found this http://www.cdoc.com/detail.asp?id=42016#, installed it in my car and it was a great difference in driving!

What it does is keep your lap belt tight on your lap, so your rear end does not slide around and gets you great anchoring on the seat for the pedals, my knees are not working to keep me anchored. I was truly amazed, and had a great time on the track.

Wanted to share this as another solution to getting a full race seat and harness if you want to keep your car stock.

Chuck,

I already ordered the Porsche fire extinguisher holder from the dealer, $17 or so. will be installing it this weekend with a new extinguisher. Lesson learned from you.

The catalytic converters have welds that will break also, sounds like loose bolts inside the converter when you tap it with a rubber mallet. I had mine replaced this past spring.

You are very welcome. I will wait until the winter before venturing out to the desert though.... Seriously, let me know if the trick worked on your car. I got from one of the local Porsche guys here.

Wow! Glad you were not hurt Chuck, that is the most important point. Your reaction is excellent, "time of upgrading". I am sure you have the knowledge to investigate the root cause, from your former work.

Anyways, I think The Collection in Miami has some TT on sale....... :rolleyes: just kidding. And great advise about the fire extenguisher, I always thought guys had those on their street cars to impress the ladies only......

You not only need E-gas and the electronic seats, you have to make sure the blinker fluid is toped off. I get mine from here, thanks to Scott "Ranger"

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=...p;products_id=6

Hey Scott, got something for you, may help. Centering the calipers over the new rotors. Here is the process I followed, I replaced rotors this weekend too, and calipers a few weeks ago. Works for me.

1. With wheels off and car secured, loosen the caliper bolts, back them out about 4 turns from hand tight. Test to see if you can jiggle them a bit by hand.

2. Turn iginition on. I like to turn the engine on myself, but may not be necessary.

3. Have someone pump the brakes, make sure they are tights and hold the brake down

4. Get the caliper bolts tight now, 64 ftlbs or whatever it is (I forget the exact number for the purists out there)

5. Engine off, replace wheels and go for a drive.

Anyway, I did this with new calipers, old rotors, old pads and it was fine. Then again with new rotors, old pads and no problems. I reuse the vibration dampeners, no new ones. The adhesive melts on a good track day anyway, so no big deal. I also run the Mintex redbox from ebay for normal street driving, they are more than fine. I use different for track.

Anyway, no squealing.

Hope it works for you. How's that tranny holding up?

Izzy

Here is one:

http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/Porsche...s/valentine.htm

My car has the phone module pigtail on the othe other side of the console. The wires are the same, and you can get power on the V1 with ignition on. I mounted the V1 on the passenger visor, have the readout on the steering column so only I can see it. I did this both on a cabrio and coupe, works great.

I am not sure the '99 had the feature, it is not in the manual. My 99 doesn't do it and has memory seats. The 2003 does it.