Izzy

Chanda, should be stamped on the inside of the rim. The link below will show you the geometry, read it carefully as it can be tricky to follow.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101

Did you see the car phone power connector on one of the V1 install sections? To me it was the easiest location, and the V1 turns on/off with ignition.

My experience with warranties4wheels was the opposite. I would never recommend them.

Ditto. Ask them to show you where in the factory recommended services it states alignment due dates or mileage. Better yet, go elsewhere, sounds like they are looking for $$ and not customers.

Maybe, or maybe they noticed uneven wear on the tires and are trying to save you from early tire life. I don't think they go by time or mileage, but it is a good thing to do if your car does not track straight or the the uneven wear I mentioned.

Then again, they may need more $$ for the month closure...... Should run about $100 at the dealer.

Not Ranger tight, more Airforce tight. I would guess 7 ftlbs, with my calibrated finger-wrench. But I have never used a torque wrench on them.

For my daily driving, I run Falken FK-452, and they are a great bang for the buck. I have 2 set of wheels, so keep the track tires separate. In my opinion, why buy expensive Autobahn tires to drive to the office at 45 mph? The FKs are great for wet or dry. I spend more on track tires, where I will spend a lot of time on 3 digit speeds, high heat, etc.

UT, sounds like you are used to dealing with oil changes. If you think it is 10-30 in there now, I would go buy 9 quarts of 0-40 (mobil 1), drain the oil, drain the filter, refill. Will cost you max $6X9, and you have piece of mind.

To change the oil, look at the DIY section for step by step instructions. And do a search for "ramp" if you need to raise the rear of the car to get to the oil plug. Some members don't need to do that, I have to get clearance for my "lower chest".

Hi8ha, I have a size XL G-force hybrid helmet for sale. If interested let me know, it is new, never used. Look in the parts for sale section

I start with 8-10 lbs under factory recommended. It depends on the track and the temp of the track. Long tracks with sweeping turns as opposed to short tracks with many turns (tires will get hotter on the latter). Track temps in the morning can be 50F or 90F. The other factor is how you drive, i.e. first DE so you are cautious and in traffic v.s. Solo group with the the other banshees. Finally the tires and how the tire wall rolls over (stiffness)

So, first time out, do 5 lbs under. When you get off the track, measure the pressure and reduce further if needed. Look at the wear marks for tire roll and see if you are getting the corners. If you are new to DE, your instructor will be a great resource to help you with that too. The more events you do with different instructors, they will all have different perspectives. So learn from all.

For comparison, Here in the Carolinas, I have run 14 lbs under when the track temp is 140F and I run CMP, lots of turns and shorter track. Falken Azenis RT tires.

John, on the wheels, I use old spare wheels for track days. Keep my nice wheels for street only. Just a suggestion so you don't hit a gator on a turn and bend a nice wheel.

Kristian,

look in the DIY section

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7060

Sent you a PM, see if that is what you are looking for?

True, true.

You may want to post this in the 987 Forum, may get more responses.

Not quite, I am in my 40s. But did get to steal a kiss at turn of a mile, my imagination was running wild.

Just like the music. ;)

Driving around in my automible

My baby besides me at wheel.....

Ding - ding goes the bell

the cook in the lunch room is ready to sell....

Remeber that one Chuck? Couldn't help to make the connection between ding-ding, you, and Chuck Berry. Got to stop drinking this Cuban coffee.....

I agree with Loren's blog but would change one thing. Use statistical power tests to determine the number of runs needed to establish "proof". Based it on the differences between runs, instrument linerarity and accuracy, error terms, etc etc. You enginerd geeks like me out there know what I mean?

On the other side, since I painted my track wheels red, I have another 28.37 HP. Krylon states that on the paint can.

NBL, Izzy :drive:

Ooohh, Mike that is good thinking. I got the unit for Christmas last year, and placed it on the lower left side of the windshield, nearest the driver. But I like this better, I don't use the GPS that often and your idea makes for an easy removal. How much does it block the second cup holder? That would the only concern, since I use the GPS on long trips, same trips I would have a water bottle there.

I am going to try it, and look for black PVC or paint it black. You know matching colors make the car can go faster.

Tiptronic or 6 speed for the coolant leak?

I think Cosmo is right, if it is at a specific speed, that "ding" can easily be it. On my 2003 the dash was have a message, but on the 1999 I didn't think it did. Check the OBC setting. The radio issue I had would happen at any speed.

Chuck,

Being a 99, does your radio face come off? It if does, remove it and reset it, maybe clean the contacts on the bottom. I had a similar issue with my 99, ended up being the radio thought the face was "open" and would do a "ding-ding", faint.

Izzy

Wardhog, I have a good friend that had 2 wheels fall off right after leaving the dealership. They forgot to replace the bolts. So it can happen. He walked back to the dealer and they also got him a free brake job.

I have been using a torque wrench to remove and replace my bolts for years, and do that a couple of times a month. It should be fine as long as you don't set the air gun to a high torque. I always have to do 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get to 96 ftlbs.

Nice DIY. I noticed the absence of the temp probe was not on the installed bumper picture. You still have a "male" car, don't you? :clapping:

Paul, the fusebox should be in the footwell, near where your right foot is. There is a black cover, has a hole in it where you can put in your finger and pull. It should come off and it is "hinged" from the bottom. If you use the "Quick Menu" above, select the "Owners Manual" and you can download the 2003 manual with all the information you are looking for, and a lot more.

Price seems kind of high for my taste, for the year. Have you checked with Porsche website used car search? You can also look at your local Porsche dealers used cars. I just did a quick search, for instance a 2003 coupe certified (read: Warranty from Porsche) listed at $49K. Porsche dealers have more overhead to feed so their prices can be higher, but it gives you a comparison for other shops. My last car I bought from a dealer 1500 miles away, sometimes negotiation with dealers can pay off and the warranty is sweet since it is by Porsche. Just my opinion.