Kiko

Thank you, sir!!!

P.S. What about a worshop manual, am I asking too much?

Now the Million Dollar question...

Where can I get a PET?

Cheers

Francisco

Front set: 996.351.949.12

Rear set: 996.352.949.03

Thank you! You're always there when needed.

Model and year?

Steel or PCCB?

Sorry Loren,

Its a 2001 Turbo with steel rotors...

Thanks in advance

Would anyone please provide OEM brake pads part number?

Thanks in advance

hi:

I meant the anti-rattle back plate (which sometimes gets stuck on the caliper pistons..)

Yes. At the track, I install Pagid yellows without the anti-rattle plates (ARPs). Afterward, I reinstall the stock pads and re-glue (with high-temp RTV) the ARPs.

Thanks! Whats an High temperature RTV ?

Loren,

Thanks, I got it from Imagineauto website. I needed it for the gentleman who bought my old GHL motorsport.

Does anyone has fitting instructions for the exhaust?

hi:

I meant the anti-rattle back plate (which sometimes gets stuck on the caliper pistons..)

Quick question... I want to change the OEM pads for Pagid Yellows just for the track day and then back to OEM, can I use the Pagids without backing plate?

Yoko's NEOVA(AD07) is not too bat when you go under 230km/h.

But if you wanna go faster, you'd better not to choice them.

Would you please elaborate on this?

I have PS2's on my TT (N-rated on the rear and Xload on the front) and I've complained about the softwalls albeit great adhesion but apparently thats how they are... the best advise I can give you is buy the new Yoko Advan Neova AD07 instead which were designed with Porsche and Lotus in mind (they're actually OE fitment for Lotus). They in between a street tire and a DOT race tire. Stiff sidewall, ultimate grip and are labeled as Extreme performance tyre instead of the usual Max performance tire by Tire Rack.

Whats the mileage on that clutch? As the clutch dics gets worn the pedal comes up. Maybe you need to change the clutch.

The Porsche parts guy said the CHF-202 replaces the CHF-11S, but you raise a good question. A google search came up with this about Pentosin:

Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 2/6/2006 wrote:

"...Another point worth mentioning is that there has been some confusion about Pentosin products. Some people say "Pentosin" as if that automatically means "hydraulic oil", and then they go and use Pentosin brake fluid where Pentosin's hydraulic oil CHF-11S and CHF-202 are specified for the power steering, or vice versa. This is really really bad, since the two systems are not compatible. Pentosin is a brand name of a company that makes fine products, but we can't be careless when we decide where to pour each into the car.

CHF-11S and CHF-202 are compatible, those are the older and newer versions of the hydraulic oil used for power steering. But neither of those two Pentosin products are compatible with Pentosin's (or anyone else's) brake fluid. "

Regarding '1999Porsche911s' suggestion to add air to the system, that may yield the results I want...but I'm reluctant to do so and would be surprised if this is the only solution (I've been wrong before!). I'll try to bleed it today and post the results.

A hydraulic clutch system without an adjustable piston either at the slave or the pedal will always engage at the top of the pedal if the system is free of air. No matter how high or low you adjust the pedal, the engagement will still be at the top of the pedal release. Only by somehow establishing play in the hydraulic system can you reduce the level at which the clutch will engage. On a cable controlled clutch, this was accomplished by indroducing slack into the line. With hydraulics, the fluid is the cable and without adjustable pistons, the only way you can introduce slack is to intoduce air. This allows the pedal to be pressed down further before the line is compressed enough to begin working. It is a perminant and dependable solution and has been a standard way of adjusting hydraulic clutches since they were first introduced.

Just fitted 235/40 in the front but it messes with ABS/PSM to the point of kicking in mid turn just by touching the brake pedal due to the increased turning radius. I already ordered a set of 225's...

Dear RennTech

I'm new to your forum and new to a used 2003 GT2 purchased 24 hours ago. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to fill the right sided gas tank. ...It will only allow 0.68 gallons before spilling out at the spout evenwith :help: slowest filling rate possible. Any hints???

Theres a solenoide valve on the filling neck to prevent fuel vapours to be relase into the atmosphere. Te valve is stuck close only a trip to a workshop will sort the problem althought sometimes its only a matter of positioning of the hose but for your description its the valve...

If theres something wrong with the software the dyno will be all over the place...

How does the X73 motor mount differ from the stock TT motor mount?

Its harder giving asportier, louder and tauter feel to the car.

Can the X73 motor mount be purchased separately from the X73 kit? If so, what is the part number?

Yes, check www.carnewall-europe.com they retail for 350€ and Gert is very friendly.

Is there a DIY for changing the motor mounts/how do you do it?

If you don't know how to do it means its dangerous for you to do it, specially since you might not have the tools and the right equipment for the job. IMHO

glug,

I seriously doubt it, do you mind if I post this on another forum? give it a try but PLEASE show us the dyno afterwards to check if the car is running lean, rich, kicking the timing back or whatever...

Loren please step in...

I said future mods which means that for instance a software upgrade for the X50 will provide a lot more power and torque when compared with the normal Turbo which is limited by the K16's to provide reliable boost over 1,1 bar.

Increasing Power always means torque as well in these cars, actually in term of percentage, if I'm not mistaken there's a bigger increase in torque than in Power although power is torque x rpm.

I went for the RoW rear GT2 sway bar which is 1mm smaller but since its adjustable the 3rd hole (out of 4) dialed out some understeer. Go to carnewal, order it from Gert and You'll be pleased with little money and using OEM stuff.

your statement is like saying: Why spend X amount of money on a Porsche for 420 Bhp if I can buy a 'Vette for a lot less?.

The difference between X50 and normal Turbo is not just software. Its about bigger turbos (k24's), bigger intercoolers (same as GT2's), steel syncros reinforced gearbox (some say its not..), Heavy duty clutch and a different exhaust (some say its not but the truth is the part number is different) and different software. This set up will provide a rock solid reliability and a much greater potential for future mods...

Toe can be be either toe in (negative numbers) or toe out (positive numbers). The Porsche spec is for slight toe out. Toe out, generally speaking, makes the car less stable in a straight line. Toe out in the front helps to turn the car. Toe in in the front helps the car track in a straight line. Toe in in the rear helps the car stay in a straight line under acceleration. Excessive toe (in or out) increases tire wear as in general the car spends most of its time going in a straight line.

Your alignment will be a compromise balancing tire wear versus performance.

Its the other way round though... Toe in is positive numbers and toe out is for positive numbers.

I finally set the car up!

After long hours of reseach I ended up with the following set up (very close to GT2 apart from front toe):

Rear GT2 anti-sway bar set at hole #2 (being 1 the softest and 4 the stiffest)

Front Axle:

Toe 3' on each (6' total)

camber -1º05'

Rear Axle

Toe 10' (RoW OEM)

Camber -1º25' (RoW OEM)

Impressions:

On the track where all cars understeer severely, this one when tested both by me and by a Professional International Racing driver the car showed very mild understeer (near apex) with good turn in (from beginning of the turn up until apex) and slight overtsteer when provoqued (from the apex to end of turn)but overall a very "safe" car to drive even with PSM off...

On the road and using 34psi front and 39 in the rear the car's steering felt slightly darty (loose) at highway speeds (very, very slightly) kind of when you run with empty tank vs full tank and this was due to less toe in which increases turn in sharpness but has the side effect. The car now on the road (this is very important since you spend 99% of the time on the road) feels neutral with slight power oversteering. The only thing that still bothers me is the tire pressure as I was used to increase tire pressures (BMW's) and in this car I had to lower them and quite a long way (from 44 to 39 in the rear), I wonder why is this and if tire wear increases noticeably...

I tried many combos and for all round performance, 34/39 seems the best I tried 'till now. This includes High speed highway, and fast twisty roads AND city driving.

I'm thinking on buying a TTP chipped DME (2nd hand deal) has anyone tried them? Its seems to have been progemmed by this German guy called Gunther and they're very conservative by quoting 460 hp (www.t-t-p.de)

What do ya say?

Spirited driving means driving fast around a couple of bends on a twisty road and stopping afterwards on a traffic light for instance meaning that maximum grip on NOT very hot tires is the goal since you don't sustain high speeds or push the car for more than a 2 couple of minutes at a time. I think the the 33/38 set up should be a good start for the track (to eventually reach the 41/46 hot) but marginally low for the road...