0586slb

Note: I have something else to add. My battery gauge on my dash shows it at 14 ( the range is 10-16). According to the owner's manual, this is good. Could my problem maybe something other than the battery? like the alternator?? Just thought I would add as much info about what I am faced. thanks!

The gauge is showing the voltage output of the alternator. The reading of 14V will only be whilst the engine is running. When the ignition is on but engine not running, a reading of 12.5V is to be expected. A battery can have a cell intermittantly going high resistance through sulphating of the cells. As previously posted, sulphation is an irreversible aging process of a Lead-Acid battery.

What electrical settings are you worried about? The DME will relearn in a day or so, the windows are reset by a 'double click' when they are at the fully closed position so that leaves the radio. Did you get a code card when you received your vehicle? Being a 2003 model, it may not need the code to be entered.

The car may be out of warrantee, but the RMS and IMS service they just did for you should be warranted.

I don't know about reputable independants, but I was in an almost identical situation with my OPC. They said that they don't warrant warranty work. If I'd paid to have my RMS done, it would have been warranted. However, because Porsche in effect paid for the work, the RMS was not warranted beyond the end of my warranty.

Its advisable to have an alignment done, it won't harm to drive too far to your Porsche centre. If the alignment is out, you may not feel it but it may be scrubbing your tyres.

On RHD models, its still in the same place, i.e. its on the passenger side instead of under the steering wheel.

I'm sorry, this would depend on numerous factors, such as whether the interface use opto-couplers for the level conversion or something newer, whether the software utilised the conventional TD and RD lines, or some software I've seen uses CTS and RTS to transmit and receive data.

I have soaked carburetor parts in acetone for months and even years to see if there is any deterioration.

This just shows the age of the article. Watch how it strips the Platinum from your £1,200 Catalytic Converters too(!)

Again, pin layout is mandated by ISO9141:

Pin 16 - Battery +

Pin 4 - Ground

Pin 7 - K line

What makes you think there is a K2?

On Audis, because there were so many modules in their later cars, before going with CAN, they split the modules over two K lines and put the second one where the L line would have been. (Pin 15) The L line to wake modules has not been used since about 1996 and I don't think Porsche have ever used a second K line.

1. Its usually an either/or on German cars. So if a part is designed to use a gasket, the gasket is installed dry. All gaskets on the cooling system are installed this way. The crankcase halves do not have a gasket, so are assembled with a mastic of sorts.

2. I'm sure the bolt is meant to be 900 378 030 09??? If so, 10Nm

0x33 - as with all ISO9141.

2002 986S UK RHD.

I'm getting an occasional (athough now quite regular) smell of fuel in the cabin. It is more pronounced when I'm going slow or reversing back on to the drive. The only thing I can think of is a hose or breather is starting to weep a little. Any ideas? Is the fuel tank accessable from the front luggage compartment or is it between the front 'tub' and the bulkhead? Anyone else had a petrol smell drawn in though the ventilation system?

Many thanks,

Christopher

Click on the 'Donate to Renntech.org' thats on the banner of every page. Pay with PayPal or Visa. When Loren finds out you have made a donation, he will upgrade your status from 'Member' to 'Contributing Member' - this will then unlock access to the 200+ TSBs for your car.

Sadly, this is becoming more and more common in England. With the immobilizers getting so strong now, they need your keys to take your car, so will go to any lengths to get them. It ranges from a fishing rod through the front door letterbox, burgling and rasacking the house to find them, through to ripping the keys out of your hand at the filling station or knocking at your front door with a baseball bat. Its known as 'aggravated vehicle taking' as the thieves started arguing they did not intend to keep the car...

Tom,

The microswitch Loren refers to is the switch to activate the window lifter. The switches to detect door closed, locked, key turned etc are all in the door lock module. Module being the operative word, all the functions are carrried out in one lump of plastic. Part number 8N1 837 015C. To the eagle eyed, this part number is for the door lock of a LHD Audi TT. Being electrically minded, I would open the module up to see what was what, but if you haven't the confidence, I'd verify the part number with your OPC and see if you can get it cheaper from an Audi centre.

986Jim: The first O2 sensor... is totally ignored by the computer at WOT during Closed Loop. Normally when the cat is fine the second O2 sensor would read way more oxygen in the exhaust as all the excess fuel is burnt in the cat.

I see what you mean, but Closed loop Lambda Control falls into Open Loop at the greater throttle openings. The second O2 sensor would read practically no oxygen at all, as the excess oxygen molecules join with the Carbon Monoxide to form Carbon Dioxide and with the Hydrocarbons to form Carbon Dioxide and water.

Russ, is your car a UK car or US? In the UK, we have never had CAT lights and inherited CEL in 2001. The CAT can be damaged and require replacing for a number of reasons, including: erosion of the platinum cell coating (overheating or leaded fuel) core meltdown (excess fuel entering a hot CAT) core fracture (mechanical or thermal shock) and detached/dislodged core. Any of these can cause the whole thing to block your exhaust.

Are the 'tickings' just lifter noise or just the crackling of the hot exhaust?

... its says that the O2 sensor ahead of CAT fualty... is this the sensor after the CAT..?

No, ahead of CAT is just that, upstream of the CAT, before the CAT in direction of exhaust travel.

Loren, you said; "A bad cat could ruin the O2 sensor" the converse is definately true.

Russ, please post your trouble codes, as Loren said, if the Coilpacks are cracked like you say, your going to need to change them regardless if they are causing this fault or not, as they are exposed to everything the road can throw at them and the water (if you drive on wet roads) will be getting in.

The acrid electrical burning smell will help you find it. Logically, the gap between the cluster and speaker is the highest point in the dash, so it doesn't mean that the smoke was generated directly below.

If you are going to start to investigate this yourself, please disconnect the battery first. No excuses, just do it. I've just seen an '06 VW Passat with the entire dash removed and an awful mess of burnt wires and yellow repair wires - caused by a poorly fitted taxi radio. (The workshop would not let me photograph it.)

Start removing the easy accessible things, like the radio, panel switches and headlight switch, hopefully that smell will guide you to the problem area because it remains really strong on the perpetrator for a week or so.

<_< :P :D :lol:

Sorry, just laughing at the 'Property of...' towel that was used in the pictures!

If its not getting cold so soon after a re-gas, it was either not done correctly, or something else is at fault. As mentioned elswhere on Renntech, the front condensors are notoriously good at collecting leaves and other debris that end in a cold damp corner that harbours enough moisture to corrode the pipes to the condensor. You have to remove the front bumper to inspect them, but once removed its good to get everything brushed out and breathing again.

If it wasn't a leak, you can pop the engine cover off from behind the seats and watch to see if the AC clutch is engaging. (If not, check fuses etc...)

How reputable are the guys at the AC garage? I've heard of everything from using the R134a 'aerosol' type refill cans to using the high pressure service valve and not checking the PAG fill.

To service the AC effectively, it should have been pressurised to check for leaks, evacuated (with the PAG oil drawn off too) flushed with nitrogen, evacuated again, quantity of fresh PAG calculated and then refilled with the correct quantity of PAG and R134a to the correct system pressure. It just takes the minutest particle of dirt to restrict the restrictor and its a dashboard out job to fix.

I'm struggling a bit here, but is it 964 572 015 01 (left) and 964 572 016 01 (right)? The centrifugal fan and motor are not listed separately in PET.

Easiest way is to just swap things from the working side to the failed side. HID bulbs can burn out, as the electrodes erode and stop liberating enough electrons or the repeated heating/cooling causes the gas to leech from the seals.

Try cycling the locks locked and unlocked via the switch on the dashboard whilst you have the auxiliary power hooked up. If the Central Locking control unit still thinks the doors are locked, it will prevent the hood switch from working. What are you using for your 12V supply? It needs to be something with plenty of oomph to pull the hood solenoid.

Mark,

I've just re-read both of your posts and if the pulley is being stalled, the polyrib belt will not last very long at all.

What puzzles me is that the pulley part of the AC compressor drive is in its own bearing race, so will not free off just because the AC clutch is engaged and giving a slight axial pressure. Please verify the pulley itself is stalling by popping a small spot of paint right on the edge. The clutch plate goes pretty much right to the edge of the pully, so may appear as if the whole pulley has stalled at first glance. Are you viewing the pulley from underneath the vehicle or through the access panel behind the seats?

Best, Christopher

From your picture, its not that the window has pulled away from the stitching, its the original stitching has created perforations (a bit like a tear off section on a card) and the window is tearing along them. Realistically, adhesive is just not going to work, as you can't get between the folds of fabric to clean enough to give the adhesive a sound base. Re-stitching is out of the question, as that area of the window looks to have oxidised and turned brittle.

It looks as though a professional vehicle upholsterer is required to stitch in a new window.

... and it helps if you have a little flashlight to illuminate the spinlock.

:lol: Yep, I had an LED heat torch on when trying to fit mine. Exactly as described by 'AS2003' fit the spinlocks with the hood down, raise the roof and you can get in with a long 5mm Alen key (wrench). Instead of the plastic bag technique, I utilised the piece of string technique. The head of the spinlock bolt is big enough to tie a piece of string round, keep it taught and once the bolt bites you can just pull hard on the string to pull your knot out.

Are you aware of how to do the full adjustment of the hardtop once fitted? With every car being different, it will not just click down perfectly on first install.

You have described the exact functionallity as designed. The AC compressor does have a clutch, this, as you say, engages only when there is an AC demand - i.e. when the AC is switched on. It looks strange when you are viewing the running engine, but the outer pulley of the AC is spinning, but the clutch plate and therefore the input shaft of the AC does not turn until the AC is engaged.

I find that the automatic car washes are great for that 'Brushed Aluminium' look... :lol: