0586slb

Not necessarily, if there is enough carbon then it will absorb gas and make the mixture too rich on warm starts. Bottom line is that if it's dirty clean it - it can only help.

The carbon can't absorb gas, as the injectors squirt directly into the chamber directly behind the inlet valves. However, the 'if its dirty, clean it' is true, as the ring of carbon filth causes problems as follows:

When the engine is idling, the DME controls the idle speed by small movements of the main throttle butterfly. When the butterfly is completely closed, if held to the light you can see there is a small gap between the butterfly and venturi walls. This is enough to still allow some air to pass. So you start the engine and the DME tries to settle at idle. As it closes the butterfly, instead of air passing the small gap as above, the butterfly closes on to the carbon ring and suffocates the engine, causing a rapid drop in revs. The DME notices the engine is about to stall, and rapidly opens the throttle again. And so it oscillates, until the DME realises it needs to hold the throttle further open to idle (fairly) smoothly.

When the throttle body carries out the 'learning' or 'adaptation' procedure, the DME checks it can move the butterfly to predetermined positions and notes the feedback positional values. However, when it moves it to the closed position, there is no way of knowing that it is completely closed off, until the engine is (trying to) idling, as described above.

I think Porsche would be laughed out of the car market for good if this happened...

There's one of the rear wheel speed sensors that provides the vehicle speed for the car. However, the ABS module has to pass on the data to the cluster. I suspect if the ABS warning is not on, the fault lies between the ABS module and the cluster.

The VW group have stopped supplying individual pins. The wires they supply with pins already crimped are repair wires, thats why they are Yellow. All repairs to any part of the wiring harness are supposed to be run in yellow wire and bound with yellow tape, presumably so its easier to spot harness repairs.

I'm disappointed if Porsche are discontinuing the individual pins, as I think it makes a far neater job if they are crimped correctly in the factory colours.

The plug covers the spinlocks (or spinlock holes) that are the attachment points for the Hardtop.

If they're worth their salt, they'll give the IMS and RMS a thorough inspection and advise accordingly. But if its not leaking, its best not to tinker with it.

Don't worry about it. Cat damage occurs when unburned fuel (from a missfire) enters a fully warmed Cat. Burning the fuel in the Cat can result in a core meltdown or cell failure, due to overheating.

However, I doubt the Cats were anywhere near lightoff temperature. In fact, every time you start the engine, unburned fuel is entering the Cats, but when the engine is cool and fuel enriched, the Cats are cool too and the Catalytic Conversion process is not taking place. (I could waffle here about open loop lambda control during warm-up etc)

We have pre and post Cat lambda probes too, the post probes do very little to correct the fuel mxture, rather they verify the performance of the Cats. So if your light stays off, everything looks OK.

Did you disconnect the battery before removing the seat? If not, the Airbag circuits remain powered and may have detected a disturbance. Did you have the key in the ignition lock at all too? (It does not have to be turned, just in)

Water may have 'wicked' by capliliary action to some other part of the wiring harness, causing problems. A few years ago, some Audis had leaky Engine Coolant Temperature sensors, they were leaking and coolant was migrating all throughout the wiring harness, mainly turning up in the ECU but sometimes in lamp clusters!

If your fault lamp was caused just by a removal of the seat (i.e. a sporadic code) it should clear of its own accord within 50 start cycles. If not, you'll somehow have to arrange for the Airbag Control Unit to have its memory checked.

Don't worry that Porsche don't have a pin allocated to slot 15.

A great deal of car manufacturers are using the 'standard' 16 pin J1962 connector for diagnostic connections. It was all born from trying to standardise fault diagnosis mandated by OBDII. It was thought that if a vehicle complied, it would be able to be connected to any generic scan tool for fault reading. However, the J1962 connector became a bit like the SCART socket on the back of our TVs and DVD players, where you have the option of using RGB, composite video or S-Video - all completely different signals on different pins.

Getting back on topic, VW, Audi, Seat, Skoda and Porsche use the ISO9141 hardware layer for their comms. Ford use PWM etc. So for ISO9141, you use pin 16 for Battery +, pin 4 or 5 for Ground and pin 7 for the communication or 'K-Line'. On the very earliest (1994-1996) cars, the control module would have been 'woken up' on the 'L-Line', with comms continuing on the K-Line once established. The L-Line was in pin 15, hence the reference from the site you mentioned.

ISO9141 is the physical hardware of the interface, it differs completely from PWM or VPW - think of it like RS232 and RS422 or RS425. So although VAG and Porsche use the same ISO9141 hardware, the protocol that is used with it is different, like thousands of computer applications use an RS232 interface, they each will have a different protocol.

So, the manufacturers that utilise the ISO9141 hardware layer, support a generic OBD protocol that allows communication with the engine electronics only, they have their own protocols for the other modules in the car. For the VAG group, they use Key Word Protocol 1281 and KWP2000. I'm not yet sure what the KWP is that Porsche use.

With more control modules wanting to interact in the vehicle, manufacturers are increasing the use of Controller Area Networks. The CAN bus offers a much more robust communications network. I believe there is a provision to connect to the CAN bus at the J1962 diagnostic connector, but again you will require a device with the propriety hardware and software to interrogate this connection.

1. Open the doors.

2. Move the power window regulator into its upper position and undo the combination nuts M6 of the power window rails.

3. Adjust the power window unit so that the upper edge of the door window is sufficiently pressed against the door seal at the side. Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.)

:unsure: I know this is copied from the factory manual, but if you carry out step 1. the window will drop its 10mm, and if you've carried out step 1. how do you do step 3.? (i.e. you'll have to close the door again...)

Welcome to the board!!

It's a bit academic now that the dealer is looking into it, but I would have just put my multimeter on the starter terminals first, to see for definite if it was the starter. - If I was getting the correct voltages for the start position of the key, the starter would need further inspection, conversely if the solenoid voltage was not getting to the starter, I would then start to trace it back.

At my local dealer in the UK, they reckon about 7 hrs labour. I know they can do the job in 3.5, but the book time is (I'm told) 7hrs.

Does the interior handle still workafter the tink? (but just not spring back?) If not, it will probably be the bowden cable between the handle and lock mechanism. It may be a spring in the handle or the lock mechanism. But it looks like you'll have to strip the door to investigate further.

However, the interior handle is listed as one part and the entire lock mechanism is listed as one part too (i.e. no replacement springs or other things...)

Sorry, quick edit, I've spotted a spring for the interior door handle, 999 522 015 00. May be broken or just need reseating.

I'm presuming you have verified there is the switched live and permanent live getting to the cluster?

The instruments you have mentioned are all supplied from a 10V voltage regulator within the cluster. It's 10V, so that when your lights, fan, Heated rear window etc. are all switched on, the gauges etc. will not under-read.

If you're up on electronics, remove the cluster and you should see the voltage regulator on a copper heatsink. Get the numbers off it and source a new one. If not, you'll need a new cluster.

All this shows you correctly disconnected the battery before carrying out your electrical work. The window down and up thing allows the 'finger pinch protection' to re-learn the end stops for the windows. Sometimes you need to do a full down, full up then click and hold in the up position for another couple of seconds.

If you whine about the seat, they may send you a backrest only version by return! :eek:

There's another difference with the USA and UK version of the alarm, as the interior Infra Red Sensors work when the top is down without a red clip on mine. (2002 986S)

Ad Hoc changing of parts can be expensive. You have to have some form of diagnosis carried out to direct your fault finding. I did not mention in my earlier post that failure of a Catalytic Converter may also exhibit the same symptoms. This is why you should have a robust diagnosis done.

You did not give the year, model and country information for your car, but the thermostat is a 'one part fits all'. Order part number 996 106 125 52.

It is located on the lower right front of the engine, right next to the water pump (its in the housing that the large main hose attaches to on the right of the engine) To change:

Remove rear underside panel.

Drain coolant.

Remove hose from thermostat housing. (the large hose)

Remove four hex head bolts and remove housing with thermostat inside.

When removed, press down (against spring force) and simultaneously turn the thermostat out of housing.

Reassemble with new gasket 996 106 326 50.

I tried painting mine but they weren't the same. I ended up replacing them. In the UK the two levers cost £45 each but have made a big difference to the interior.

That shows the peculiar parts pricing policy. I have the later electrical switches to open the the luggage compartments. The illumination failed in one and it was a very reasonable £16 ($28ish) to purchase a new one.

Longer response - :D

If the PSE was connected with the valves working as designed, it would not change a thing. The valves are opened and closed according to roadspeed - not engine speed. I can't remember the exact speeds, but something like 0-35mph is loud, 35-50mph is quiet and then they open up again. All it does is bypass the muffler chamber, so will not have a bearing on the emmissions (being downstream of the Cats).

Again, de-snorkling is well upstream of the MAF sensor, so other than a change of expected intake air temperature this will not have a bearing either.

Usual suspects are the MAF, Lambda probe or an air leak. To diagnose effectively, you need a diagnostic tester to read any DTCs, and to check values like the Long Term Fuel Trim and such. The diagnostic tester will also show if the DME is popping out of Closed Loop Control of the emmissions.

You didn't mention which value was 0.01 outside limits - HC, CO or NOx?

A few interesting views from the guys here, but I only go for Michelin Pilot Sports on every car I own. Their wet perfomance is very good. In England, Costco always do a good deal - is that the same for SF?

With regard to the A/C, what do you mean by it doesn't seem to work? I'ts been quite cold over the last few weeks, so you wouldn't notice whether the A/C was chilling or not. Where did you get it recharged? Did they just re-gas, or do a full evacuation, nitrogen flush and fill with fresh PAG oil and gas? Too much oil can collect where you don't want it to and too little causes an incorrect flow in the system.

Most HVAC systems are designed to dis-engage the compressor when it goes below an outside temperature of +4°C.

The Porsche HVAC uses a soft start compressor, so you don't feel a clunk when the compressor is engaged, the compressor has control valves so it engages pumping at about 20% flow, then increases proportionately with demand.

Press the lock button twice fairly quickly. The horn should signal that the car is locked.

By doing that you also switch off the interior infra red sensors and disable the deadlocks, that's why it beeps.

That's very nice Gary, but remind us what did the group help you with?