glug

Which parts would be damaged, shafts in front diff?, viscous clutch?, other? How would the damage show?. Would it be obvious when driven?

I need to find a specialist to run the dyno. I'm told that unless the front propshaft is disconnected before the power run the viscous clutch and front diff can be seriously damaged. It seems the only way to get a figure is to run it 2wd. Anyone heard these horror stories?

Kiko,

Please feel free to ask other folks. I guess I should take her for a dyno run before the remap as a comparison.

Am I right in thinking that the engine could detonate if the car was set up too lean?

I've recently fitted the inside SSK. It was worth it for the removal of all the free play from the plastic bushes. The shorter shift is a bonus. I know if I'd just fitted the rear SSK the front end slack would be a real pain.

I'm not too sure of the tech but the garage said they bought from Porsche the capability to reinstall the maps for the cars that they service. This is presumably to remedy faults in customers cars. They said they have applied a GT2 map to a tt tip' and achieved 480 bhp.

This sounds like a great opportunity for a very cheap increase in power when most tuners in England want $1700+. Surely someone has done this before if it's so easy?

I'll post in a couple of weeks with an update when it's done.

I have been offered a cheap upgrade for my standard tt.

A local garage say they have achieved 480bhp by giving a tt the GT2 map. They say they can overcome the potential problems with the differences in the cams.

The cost of this will simply be the time taken, 1 hour at the hourly rate so $75 for 60 bhp.

Can anyone see a danger in this method?

When I bought my Silverstone the shop said some years of manufacture were not compatible with the unit and they had to refund a few. I was lucky, it worked with my 02.

When I have driven a few miles and have changed gear a few times my clutch operation becomes noisy.

As I press the pedal I can feel a little resistance and a creaking sound from the rear, like there is a dry bearing or joint in the mechanism.

I have been under the car and traced the sound to the clutch housing.

It's like opening an old barn door with rusty hinges.

Can you suggest which part is causing the sound?

I fitted a B&M short shift lever last week.

The amount of play in the original bushes was huge so changing gear is now a whole new experience.

It really is like a rifle bolt action. Just the right length of movement.

Thanks B&M you've made my day.

I have settled on 6mm all round with GT bolts and lockers. They look great, flush with the arches now. I tried 9mm and 18 mm before but the 18s stuck out too far and the 9s didn't work because the wheels would not centralise mainly because the spacer took up all of the central hub that the wheel usually locates on. It felt like running on oval wheels.

Thanks for the instructions guys, job done in 10 mins, sounds great

glug