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Small enough to fit through the hole, no twisting (the allen head doesn't engage anything, you're simply using it to pop off the airbag). The airbag is only held in place using spring clips.

Disconnect your battery first! Use an allen wrench or something similar to push through the hole. This will pop off the airbag (it's held on with spring clips). Disconnect the electrical connection for the airbag. Mark the hub and wheel with a marker (to aid in replacing correctly). Remove the bolts you find under the airbag (these should be obvious).

Does a list exist of all PIWIS enable-able options? There's a few things I'd like to get the dealer to turn on/off (turn off seat belt chime, turn on window vent with rear hatch, etc), but I'd like to see what other things I could have them do at the same time.

Thanks! :)

Okay, it sounds like a momentary. That's fine, as we can use it to pulse a relay open and closed.

Thanks ever so much! :D

Wizard: Thanks so much! Any specs on the switch itself? Is it a momentary like the spoiler or PSM button?

White: Appreciate the sentiment, but I'm looking at using the switch to control a prototype exhaust that does something similar to the PSE. :)

I understand that if you buy PSE as Tequipment from the dealer for a car that doesn't have Sport Chrono, there is a switch that goes in the lower trim panel (where the PSM, Sport, PASM, etc buttons are). Does anyone have a picture of this button? Does the PSE kit come with a replacement trim panel with an extra opening, or do you need to buy that separately? Anyone know how this is wired in (I doubt the factory harness has accomidation, so is it a wire run to the solenoid in the engine bay)?

I also understand that the ECU controlled PSE is for MY07+ cars. Does the PSE still work as a simple on/off button for MY06 cars?

Thanks for any help in understanding this option! :)

Easy bolt on. Hang on to the trim piece though, as future owners will likely want it with the car.

There is a light in there. It's there to illuminate the keyhole and headlight switchgear. It's an LED, so it probably won't burn out.

To add a datapoint, I just did a waterpump on my '01S (58k) about a month ago. My VR died yesterday. There's certainly commonality here, perhaps not causality, but still...

Thanks all for your advice. I'm headed down to tackle the job in a few minutes.

I did. Well, my dealer did. ;) It was the switch. At least they couldn't figure it out, so they swapped in a new switch and that seems to have solved it. Haven't had an issue with it since (over a month). [fingers_crossed]

-Paul

I'll look into all of those, thanks! The thing is, they are getting power. They flicker like an old florescent tube, they just don't fire. And the whole problem is very intermittent. Last night, they worked fine every time! Perhaps something in the switch is causing some resistance in that circuit that fires the ballasts? Maybe that relay is aging badly?

This just in -- perhaps it's temperature-related? Last night was unseasonably warm (high 60s) here in Atlanta. I'd have to think about it, but it just seemed to start when the weather got colder. Maybe not, and I'm grasping at straws, but I am grasping at straws! ;)

-Paul

Well, that's a decent potential cause, although the problem is with both, and then both fire. What are the odds of both balasts simulataniously acting up, then firing in tandem? Seems like something more systemic, perhaps voltage related or something.

-Paul

I actually don't suspect the switch, only because it is only the Litronic elements that flicker. The DRLs, corner lamps and tail lights all click on faultlessly. Also, it might be tough to suspect the fender sockets, since both lights seem ganged in their response (problem is tied to both lights -- they either both fire or neither -- never individually). Seems to indicate something systemic, rather than component-level, no? It also seemed to start about a month after my warranty expired (urrrg.). Also, it's not really the motion or type of motion on the switch, rather simply giving the bulbs another startup crack from the ballasts.

I'm stumped.

-Paul

Very recently, the factory-installed Litronics on my '01 986S (just out of warranty, wouldn't ya know it) have been acting a little goofy. Sometimes when you click the switch, they flicker and fail to ignite. They look just like flourescent lightbulbs going bad (which I suppose in a way they are). Click the switch over and back a couple times, and all is forgiven and they ignite.

I don't think it's a matter of bulbs failing, as they both do it exactly the same and both fire together when they fire. That also seems to rule out the ballasts. Maybe a voltage thing? Should I try peaking up my battery (the car is daily driven)? Any other ideas?

I really, really don't want to shell out for a new Litronic system! :huh:

-Paul

Just an update to say I noticed that currently (as of 07 September 2004), Suncoast Porsche has the clear taillight kit for an astounding $161.50! No affiliation, but I get the occasional email asking for advice on where to buy them, and I found this price I thought many would be interested in.

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...ory_Code=POTEBX

-Paul

Aerodynamics play a very small role in the world of Photoshop manipulation. ;)

-Paul

Now, I'm a strong believer in preventive maintenance and my philosophy is, "Don't fix nothing that's not broken!"

Those two phrases are exclusive of each other. Preventive maintenence is defined as fixing things before they break. ;)

-Paul

My Boxster is Egas, and I heel/toe all the time. The throttle blips nicely, so it must be a situational-type programming.

-Paul

Swing by your local BMW dealer and pick up a tube of Gummi Pflege. Rub this magic goo into every rubber gasket around the top and the top area on the car. This should solve the vast majority of your hardtop squeaks.

-Paul

Oh indeed. Aromatic hydrocarbons are quite toxic, but not a helluva lot moreso than gasoline. Still, your advice is well-heeded! Thanks for the reminder.

-Paul

Over the counter octane boosters do very little (ie they claim to raise octane 3 points, but that doesn't mean 91-94 rather it means 91-91.3). Your car will benefit from a higher octane than 91. There are lots of homebrew methods for increasing octane, and the best of which is adding a gallon or two of toluene or xylene to each tank. They will not harm your motor, as they are some of the most common aromatic hydrocarbons used by the refineries to improve octane (ie it's what many oil companies use to raise the octane) and was used as much 94% of the total fuel mix back in the "rocket fuel" turbo era of F1. Best of all, it can be found at many professional paint stores in 1, 5 and even 10 gallon cans. For more information, check out:

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html

-Paul

There is a power adapter that came with your remote display (or V1, I forgot as I got them at the same time). On it there are two RJ11 ports, one for powering your V1 and one for the remote. Further instructions are included in your V1 manual.

-Paul

Yeah, Steve's a cool guy. He does quality period. Someday I'll build my own Garaj Mahal!

-Paul

Very cool idea! :D

-Paul

Do you have the ISBN numbers for the books in the top pane? I'd like to go book hunting!

-Paul