BigBadBen

Thats too funny it blocked out F.........A........G. Bearings LOL

Thats funny! Good luck in your research Ben and if you got any success just pass the info if possible...

Do you think I can find this part, Jebus....I have spent all afternoon surfing for it......... Grrrr ...nothing!

Thats too funny it blocked out F.........A........G. Bearings LOL

No Pcar dealer in Kelowna but we do have a Merc dealer. They are half the price from Mercedes according to Adam who did a DIY on here. I called one of my buddies who works at Carlsen Porsche, he could not find the Merc #...darn it! They are the same so I am told. I would prefer to source them locally like the *** bearings which I have a good line on.

Does anybody have the Mercedes part number for the shaft seal (3) on the front diff.

There is a Merc part # next to the the Porsche number.

Cheers,

Ben

Front Drive Shaft Seal PN.pdf

Thought I would update this for others who run into this problem.

As I said before my ABS sensors were very dirty indeed so I recommend when you have your wheels off, take the sensors out and take a look, you might be surprised. I only have 54KM on my car too.

Even with them cleaned and double checking all the connectors and the brake pedal switch I was getting the failure pretty much all the time.

I next turned my attention to my Hitachi MAF even though there has never been a failure of this MAF. I unclipped the special harness that EVOMS supplies to connect the factory harness to the MAF and to my surprise both ends of the connectors were corroded (Those who have this setup might want to check it out). I cleaned both ends and thought this is it. Nope it made no difference.

As a finally resort I disconnected the battery to reset the DME. Since then I have not had one single failure. Now only time will tell if the problem has been fixed. I have a Durametric scan tool arriving today just in case it comes back.

So double check these things have been talking about, disconnect the battery to purge the ABS/PSM module of hard codes and see what happens.

I have a feeling there is nothing wrong.

Ben

long shot without codes, but steering sensor?

Thanks Statman, I have been reading up on the various faults that can cause this problem. There seem to be quite a few. I am going to order the Durametric Scan tool on Tuesday to see if it helps point me in the right direction. I have a feeling my AE scan tool needs the enhanced version which is why I am not seeing the codes.

I am not going to throw parts at this problem! I am sure it is something simple

Cheers,

Ben

It's an 02'

It could be that the ABS module is failing. Do the ABS/PSM lights flash or on solid?

They are Solid

Only Durametric Software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester will give fault codes for other controllers. Standard code readers only do engine fault codes.

1. Check your brake lights - if they do not work then it is your brake light switch.

2. If your brake lights are okay, it could be your MAF.

Hi Loren,

I hope you are keeping well my friend. First off thanks very much for the reply. I double checked my barke lights and they come on just fine so it's does not appear to be the brake switch.

I have a EVOMS GT800+ now that uses a Hitachi MAF which apparently has never seen a failure in these types of cars.

I have emailed Autoenginuity to see if their software can pick up ABS/PSM codes as they reference an enhancement to their standard product that can do this, just waiting for their reply.

Thanks for your pointers,

Cheers,

Ben

Hi Guy's,

I looked through all the posts about this to see if there was something obvious but so far this has stumped me.

I took out the Hall Effect sensors at each wheel, they were filthy dirty so I thought this might have been the issue but no luck. The dash displays the ABS/PSM failure which is intermittent but there are no codes stored when I fire up my Autoenginity software.

I don't think the senors are bad, the wiring harness seem to be all fine.

I checked my brake lights are working properly as I have have read the switch on the brake peddle can cause this so I am at a loss as to what is causing this.

Any other ideas chaps. The investigation continues

Ben

Loren,

I am going to be dropping my motor this weekend to do some work on her, I want to swap out my 6th gear ratio's back to my .75 OEM gears. Are there any special tricks or pitfalls to doing this. I know I just take the end cap off and pop the gears in...I was just wondering is that all?

Cheers,

Ben

I sent you a reply by PM. The cooling system list is 16 pages and you will need to go through it and subsitute the GT2 parts (they are marked) for TT parts.

Here is the GT2 bumper parts list:

gt2_front_bumper.pdf

Please forgive my ignorance but is it possible to clarify which parts I need from this list as I'm pretty sure I'll do this conversion. I don't see the GT2 Rad hoses on that list either so I'm a little confused.

Any help much appreciated.

You cannot use the GT2 rad hoses they are a three way or Y hose. You have to get another set of turbo hoses (use hose clamps and a couple) and cut the ends off so you can tilt the radiator forward. You will also have to turn the radiator upside down to make it work plus re-locate the horns as they get in the way....its a fiddly job that I am just finishing up... Talk to Mike at Carlsen Pocrche in Cali, mention my name..he will fill you in on the parts you need. I got all my stuff from him.

Ben

Once I took a good look at the seat, I realized the circuit/wiring harness was removable with the OEM buckle itself, I should have realized that ..doh!....Perfect Loren...the project continues. I don't think the buckle mounting to the Reacaro seat will be an issue, I will find out once the seats arrive on Friday.

Thanks again for your assistance, it is very much appreciated! :beer:

Ben

As I recall the factory seat belt buckle can be taken off the factory seat along with the factory cabling. It then becomes a case of connecting the buckle hardware to the new seat.

How did this turn out ? Did it work ?

I am in the process of swapping my std seat on the drivers side for a Sparco seat. I have electric seats with memory, and to avoid having the airbag light coming on I need to re-attach the electrics from the seat, all or is there a separate connector for the buckle ?

Regards,

First and foremost do NOT start your car with the buckle electrical wire disconnected from the connector it attaches to. If you do it will throw an airbag code which the dealer will have to reset for you..cha ching for the "Stealer"!...maybe Remove the buckle and connector from the wiring harness, you will have to disassemble the connector as it has a bunch of other connectors going into it but. ..it's easy to do. You also cannot mess up putting the buckle connector back on as it can only go one way I think. I used a tie wrap to securely hold the connectors together and then some electrical tape. Does that make sense?

Other than that it's a straight forward process.

Ben

I confirmed with Jeff, he thinks it's the Aero kit harness PN 996 612 070 30.

Good call Loren.

Ben

I wonder if you can use the TT aerokit harness (996 612 070 30)?

Good point Loren....I will see. I e-mailed Jeff but nothing back yet.

No, that is the TT harness PN which I already have....now you have me wondering what harness they use?

ben

:oops: my typo it should be 996.612.070.20

Thanks Loren,

Where did you dig that number up from as my PET does not have it. 20 is the TT one, I could not find the 70 one.

TIA Ben

I think you are looking for 996.612.070.70 wiring harness for rear deck lid.

You might want to double check with JeffClark@sunsetimports.com

I just converted my TT to the OEM GT2 deck lid and need to get hold of the wiring harness PN so that the rear wind error stops coming up on the dash. Does anybody have this harness/loop back PN. I cant find it in my PET.

Cheers,

Ben

Then you don't have to worry as the air is still directed under the car. When you do the compete GT2 conversion the center radiator is moved forward and to the left I think so that the air can be directed vertically through the grill on the to of the bumper. Thats why you need new hoses, brackets etc per the GT2 setup. As you did not move the radiator then everything will be OK. I want to get the benefit of the complete GT2 setup to provide additional cooling for my GT700.

You are good to go. :)

Ben

i only changed the bumper cover, and didn't touch the radiators or hoses or anything. i'll post-up a pic or two once my camera is recharged. hoses coming loose sounds bad, especially when you drive like i do. a simple hose could turn into a funeral real quickly ;)

Hi Loren,

I sent you a PM asking if you had a complete parts list breakdown for the conversion of my 02 TT to the GT2 front bumper, including all brackets and hoses required to move the center radiator. Regular parts not the CF ones.

Do you kindly have this PN list by chance.

TIA

Ben

hmmm...i have an '03 TT and just switched from standard front bumper to an after market GT2 nose, and just changed the skins. i didn't move any hoses or radiators, and it didn't seem necessary, especially since the openings are in roughly the same spots. am i missing something?

curious.

'turbo

The rad hoses will eventually blow off or work themselves loose as you go over big bumps if you moved the the center radiator to the correct position. The stock TT hoses are about 1 "shorter than the GT2 hoses which is why they have different part numbers. The hoses will come loose as the hoses are stretched to make them fit to the new rad position. I would be keep an eye on it so I have been told. I cannot afford the hoses to come off my GT700 at high speed, I also live in the middle of nowhere which is another reason I want to do this right.

Ben

Hi Loren,

I sent you a PM asking if you had a complete parts list breakdown for the conversion of my 02 TT to the GT2 front bumper, including all brackets and hoses required to move the center radiator. Regular parts not the CF ones.

Do you kindly have this PN list by chance.

TIA

Ben

Keep me posted Jonas..cheers,

ben

Ben!

Then you might have had to little fuel one of the times wich caused the error?

I think I need to calibrate the sensor at Porsche but ill try to fill it up one more time and disconnect the battery for 15 minutes or so :)

Jonas

I would be very interested to know if this fixes the problem, I have reset my DME about 15 times in the last year due to MAF issues and my GT700 kit.

TIA

Ben

Hello Loren!

THanks alot for the help, I think I tried to disconnect and connect the battery with full tank afterwards but Im not sure, I try it again and come back with info :)

Loren,

I have the EVOMS GT700 kit on my car. I upgraded the fuel lines etc for this kit with much larger injectors but I have not touched the tank itself or cluster.

Ben

Have you ever had the fuel tank, fuel level sensor or instrument cluster replaced? If so, it sounds like they did not calibrate your fuel level sensor.

If none of those have been replaced then you could have a bad wiring connection (fuel sensor to instrument cluster), a bad fuel sensor, or a bad cluster.

The fuels sensor is with the fuel pump in the tank - so even inspection will be a pain. To calibrate the fuels sensor they need to empty the gas tank, fill it with an exact amount of fuel (28 liters) and then use a PST2 or PIWIS to set the calibration.

Hi Loren,

For the past 3 months when I get to about 1/4 of gas the gauge will drop to empty and the following error is displayed "Level Sensor Failure". What PN do I need to fix this problem please. Is there anything else that could cause this and is this a common DIY.

TIA

Ben

Sorry for the late reply, my internet has been down for the past 48 hours due to Major T-storms. Well I decided to totally flush the brake system and start from scratch. I ended up using Audi DOT 4 fluid that is used in the RS series cars..there is no decent place in my town to pick up good fluid anyway.

I used close to 3 x 12 fl oz bottles and throughly flushed things out. The pedal is like a rock now, its never been like that before. A few months ago I did install Pagid Oranges all round and followed the bed in to the letter per the Pagid site...but still even then the pedal feel was not like it is now.

I have never bled the ABS/PSM system, I assumed it was all one and the same. I am still very perplexed by this, as none of it makes sense to me.

All is perfect now so hopefully I won't have this issue again, I would just like to figure out why..these sort of things bug me til I find out what is wrong.

Thanks for the advice Loren..as always you are a great help. :cheers:

Cheers,

Ben

You are correct that on a TT the clutch and brake system are completely separate and even use different fluids. One should not effect the other.

If bleeding or pumping the brakes does not improve the pedal feel then the problem is likely pad taper or the pads were overheated or the pads were not bedded in properly.

Usually when it is a bad master cylinder you can detect bleed down when holding the brake pedal down.

Has the car been driven since the brake pad and fluid change? and were the two done together at the same time?

Was the ABS/PSM system also bled?