BigBadBen

Hi Loren,

Have you any idea why I would get a totally mushy brake pedal after I drop the tranny on my car, it makes no sense at all as the two systems are totally seperate. This is so odd.

I had an issues with the custom triple **** clutch setup that I have, so had to drop the tranny...no problem. Put everything back together tonight and basically the brake pedal goes pretty much right to the floor, pump it a bit and it gets a bit hard and then goes soft again. We did NOT touch the brake system in anyway. No fluid leaks...nothing.

The only solution I have found is to bleed the system completely, no bubbles come out and all seems good again....I will be bleeding the system on Tuesday but it's just a pain in the bum! BTW I am using Castrol SRF fluid and a Motive Power Bleeder.

I am totally perplexed by this. This also happen when I recenly changed my pads...again I did not brake any of the lines but I had a very soft, mushy pedal again.

Does this sound like a dodgey master cylinder?

Cheers,

Ben

Once I took a good look at the seat, I realized the circuit/wiring harness was removable with the OEM buckle itself, I should have realized that ..doh!....Perfect Loren...the project continues. I don't think the buckle mounting to the Reacaro seat will be an issue, I will find out once the seats arrive on Friday.

Thanks again for your assistance, it is very much appreciated! :beer:

Ben

As I recall the factory seat belt buckle can be taken off the factory seat along with the factory cabling. It then becomes a case of connecting the buckle hardware to the new seat.

100 ohm res eh! I will be using the factory buckle not a harness. I would still need to figure out which wire goes where for the seat belt buckle, hang on, as the OEM seat buckle will not be connected to the factory wiring harness, how dos this work....am I missing something here?...I am not sure what the best way is of doing this..any suggestions Loren...I really appreciate the info so far.

How would you do this?

Ben

The airbag light will not go out on its own - it must be reset with the Durametric software, PST2 or PIWIS tester.

Some racers use a 100 ohm resister across the seat belt buckle to fool the airbag circuit (since they are using a 6-point harness).

So, I removed my passenger and drivers seat, just the regular full electric OEM seats, had to take the car out of the garage to remove the drivers seat..needed the room to get the seat out. Anyway now I have the air bag light on the dash.

Does anybody know how my new Toplines connect to the OEM wiring harness so the car thinks everything is OK and the air bag light goes out? Is there a resistor or some kind of wire loop I can install that fools the the DME into thinking everything is OK.

TIA...Ben

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...indpost&p=31424

Thanks Loren....Tried your TSB but it made no differnce....darn it I assume its toast...funny thing is I never had an issue with this remote prior to me doing the all mods to my car....

I thought I would check that my spare key still worked. Tried opening and closing the car with the remote key fob...nothing. The LED flashes when I press the buttons. Checked the battery all good. Bought a new battery just in case, still no good. This key worked fine last year when I bought the car.

Is there some kind of sequence I need to perform to get this key working again. I did a search but could not find anything on this subject. The user manual says not much either.

TIA.

Ben

Paul, That is a very good point, the engine revs went up for sure which is what confused me too as that would assume the compressor would be running. The only reason for the idle to increase would be the compressor load...now I am scratching my head.... <_<

The engine revs will go up when the AC is switched on but compressor not activating. The AC control unit tells the DME its on and the DME in turn alters the torque of the engine to compensate for the extra load of the compressor. By doing this, you shouldn't notice a difference when the compressor engages. However, in your situation, the AC was trying to switch on the compressor (but couldn't because of the loose connection) and the DME increased torque for a load that wasn't there.

Bloody Hell Basil Brush!!!! Boom Boom...My God its been years since I have seen him.....being an ex pat!...Thanks for the DME lesson, its all clear as crystal now...Cheers,

Ben

Yeah, glad you got it fixed but how do you explain the change in engine revs, which you thought was associated with compressor load? Just curious now, :)

Paul, That is a very good point, the engine revs went up for sure which is what confused me too as that would assume the compressor would be running. The only reason for the idle to increase would be the compressor load...now I am scratching my head.... <_<

My wife's Boxsters exhibited the same symtoms. Everything worked but the air was blowing warm. I had a Porsche Tech friend tell me a simple recharge would correct it. I bought a kit with refrigerant and a gauge and recharged it. It works better than ever and is iced cold. A note: when I hooked up the gauge the pressure was in the lower part of the working range, before adding more refrigerant, but still not blowing cold. Seems these systems loose small amounts with no detectable leaks.

Problem fixed....under futher examination, I noticed connector A1 (green wire) had come loose for the its spade connector. This actuates the A/C compressor, looks like a ground or return wire to me, anyway all is good...had a feeling is was something simple.

Thanks for all your help guy's....as always folks on here are always happy to help other board members.

Cheers all.

Ben

http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22137&hl=

You should be able to get a self regas kit with gauge by mail order. If your car doesn't maintain pressure, then what I would suggest doing is removing the front bumper and vacuum testing the condensers. This presumes that you don't have a compressor hose leak...

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/R...r/Radiator.html

However, a decent aircon shop should be able to pressure test the car aircon system and do leak detection. My leak on the Boxster was actually in the inlet line running down the underside of the car, although I suspect one of the radiators had started leaking before that.

How old is your car, and I assume it gets wet quite often where you are?

PS If it is the condensor(s) make sure you get the right part no. I ended up with a C4S one that is different from the 986/996 one. I see the 996TT condensor has a different part number too.

Thanks guy's, I think it is a leak of some kind mind you there is no sign of oil anywhere from any of the fittings....I think it is going to be something simple. Stangely enough I live in a semi desert area of BC, we only get 30 cm of rain a year so its not that wet here. Thanks for all the tips, I will endevour to track this problem down soon as its supposed to be 33 C today...

Cheers,

Ben

The usual cause of no cooling is a refrigerant leak. Any good AC shop should be able to test that.

If there is a leak your average shop may not find it. Still your best bet is a Porsche "aware" AC shop.

Usually the local Porsche club should have a few folks to recommend. Where are you located again?

Kelowna, British Columbia, Canada..closest dealer is 400 KM away....big sigh....I may take it to the local BMW or Mercedes dealership and see what they say...thats the trouble with living in the sticks.

I think its a leak.....thanks for getting back to me so quickly, I will report back my findings..

Ben

Hey Loren, As you know last year I dropped my motor to do the EVOMS GT700 kit, at the time we did not disconnect the A/C lines or remove the refrigerant from the system, we were able to unbolt the compressor motor from the engine and leave it hanging there.

Of course the A/C worked perfectly last summer but I dropped the motor in September so did not use the A/C after that. Today I turn the A/C on for the first time this year and all appears to be working except we get no cooling. The fuses are all OK, the fan motors work, you hear the A/C relay come on when you activate the A/C button, the engine revs also go up to compensate for the compressor load...all looks OK....

Of course I could just have a leak in the system, will have that check on Thursday...just trying to get some ideas. Checked my Porsche shop manual, just gives the usual info. I have no Porsche dealer in town so I am leary to have a regular A/C hack place work on my car...

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Ben

me and a friend of mine took on last weekend. Your forum is a tech forum so it deserves a mention here...hope you don't mind the links....Ben

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=35647

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=35889

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=35835

Bleeding the coolant system was a real pain in the bum without the Porsche tool..we figured it out thought with help from John at EVOMS.

Ben

Statman..Its the same on the TT, while your there clean all the rads, my TT rads were completely choked up with leaves at the back...

Undo the two rads that are screwed together and clean behind to...I put some pics up on 6speed about it....search BigBadBen

Cheers.

Check out the "DIY" section under "996, Adding the third radiator"....it shows you how to remove the bumper, its an easy job...done it myself recently.

My car has 12,500 miles on the clock....

Cheers Loren..I will follow your advice and be prepared.

Loren,

I purchased a CG Ex Loud today and when I look at the (P) shop manual its says that when re-installing the exhaust to the turbo's you should replace the seals with new ones.....is this really required or can I use the old ones if I am careful.

Also do I really need to remove the rear bumper to do this?

Cheers,

Ben

I decided to buy the Workshop and PET CD's from "Porschelibrarian"...see my original post before with regard this topic.

I received them today and they work just fine and provide me with all the info I need to maintain my car. I can print out anything I want and it comes out clear.

Being able to enlarge any image I want using Adobe 7.0, allows me to see in detail any small stuff, particularly the electrical schematics.

I am very happy with my purchase and recommend this to anybody that likes wrenching like I do.

Cheers,

Ben

Loren...these are the real deal.

Thanks Keith!

PS: Had no setup issues and all functions fine on my P4 PC

Top left of the page "DIY", "third rad installation on the NA 996".

Yes, I did that too Loren, she is nice and clean now...cheers

my rads....everybody should check theirs as this is what I found in mine. I only have 19K KM on my car.

Used my air compressor to blow out most of the stuff plus tooth brush, tooth picks to removed all the gravel which was stuck in the coil fins. Finally washed the whole thing out with a hose on high pressure....I think this will help keep her cooler don't ya think.

Many thanks to Loren for for the DIY..cheers Loren.

Haha..got it...trouble is is the closest P dealer/shop to me is 400 KM away.

Cheers Loren....any special tools required?

I am looking into doing the Evolution Motorsports GT700 upgrade and was wondering how big a job it was to drop the motor, I will also be putting in a new clutch assembly too from EVO. I like working on my cars and this is a project I know I can handle.....please can you shed some light on this for me please. I have access to a hoist etc.

TIA Loren.

Ben

Has anybody deal with these guys'

http://www.workshopmanuals.co.uk/