infocusf8

I was having kickdown problems with my '99 Tip until I did the 90K trans service and now it works perfect. I couldn't get it to downshift to first in manual mode even when the rpms were low enough until the service now no problem in manual mode either.

I think what Jeff in PA is trying to say is don't obsess over it as there is no proven data to support IMS failures caused by that particular RPM.

Understood. Thus everything being said, it seems logical that one would be better off while warming up or cruising to maintain RPM under or above the 3000-3250 RPM mark. Would you consider that a fair statement? Thank you for your help!!

Totally up to you. What you need to consider is that your road speed in that range is going to be around 70 MPH (+/- depending upon wheel/tire combo) and that a large number of owners are blissfully unaware of the harmonic zones and cruise for long periods at those speeds everyday without a problem. Track usage cars buzz past this range dozens of times every hour, again without issue.

The reality of the IMS issue is that, yes, they are somewhat prone to catastrophic failures, but currently at an unknown rate. What is known is that more frequent oil changes and usage of heavier weight oils seem to help. However, if the level of concern is high enough to cause you to alter how you use the car, or loss of sleep, there is also a known and proven fix for the problem…………….

If I'm not mistaken you can submit your VIN number to PCA national and they will help you find out where the car was originally sold and perhaps more. You may need to join but it's only $42 a year and well worth it. When I bought my '99 Boxster it was from a non Porsche dealer and I used the Carfax that they gave me to locate the Porsche dealers in the cities the Carfax showed work had been done on the car. I called all the dealers and was able to talk them into giving me the service histories without the owners names. Carfax is pretty worthless other than that as it only indicated something had been done but not what.

I had the LN IMS installed on my '99 Boxster without incident. I would strongly advise you to contact LN with this issue and not rely on anyone else's advice.

The problem with Porsche codes is they are not always an indicator of what is really causing the problem. For instance you replaced 02 sensor because an error code pointed to them but what may be the real culprit is something ahead of them causing the exhaust mixture to exceed the limits the ECM is set for. Your MAF may be pulling a code but it may not be the MAF it may be something behind it that is causing the air/fuel mixture to exceed the limits of the ECM causing the exhaust to exceed the limits of the 02 sensors. It is confusing and even some Porsche mechanics give in to the "shotgun" repair strategy of just replacing a whole system which costs you big bucks. The other side is to guess what may be the problem and start replacing parts that may or may not be bad. That also gets expensive and frustrating. One really needs to know what they are doing to accurately interpret what the codes are telling you that is why Porsche has developed a diagnostic tree to follow when these things come up.

I think the manual that comes with Porsches states that the cars are made to be driven on a daily basis and after three years of ownership I still wake up thinking about where I can go that day just to get the top down and get out on the road. I also live in an area where there are a lot of twisty backroads where I can take advantage of the great handling of my Boxster. I AX a dozen or so times a year and try to track a couple of times a year and still enjoy putting my foot in it whenever I feel it is safe to do so. Porsche engineers designed Boxster's (and all Porsches) for the drivers who appreciate and use the performance characteristics of the cars and they did an outstanding job so don't be afraid to have fun with it. As my DE instructor said to me at Laguna Seca last year when I came around turn eleven and punched it on the straightaway "Can't you just feel her smiling." Yes I could and do every time I take her out for a drive.

Car cover?

Hey all,

I just took my 2003 Boxster with 80K miles in for a routine oil change and got the dreaded call. The shop says they've detected a leak but won't know for sure (IMS or RMS) until they pull down the transmission. The first thing that troubles me is I have a spotless garage and absolutely no signs of oil anywhere - is it normal to have a leak of this nature without oil in my garage anywhere?

Anyways, the quoted price to pull the transmission and detect the leak is $1,200.

To pull the transmission, replace the IMS with the retrofit, and replace the clutch is around $3,000 with parts. No mention was made of the RMS which surprises me, shouldn't I also replace that at the same time?

Also, what do you think of these prices? I definitely want to get this work done if it means I can avoid a catastrophic failure but wonder if there's not another place in town that can do it for less...

The same thing happened to me when I first got my '99 Boxster. A mechanic pointed out a very small drop of oil and told me all the horror stories of IMS and RMS failure. I drove the car for another two years with no oil leaking out of it and decided to replace the IMS with the LN ceramic one. When the Tip trans was pulled neither the IMS or RMS was leaking but I went ahead and did the IMS conversion and had the RMS replaced which you should do if you've got the trans off and I would freshen up the clutch plates and throw out bearing if needed. The whole job, removing Tiptronic trans, LN bearing, RMS and reassembly was $1800 through an independent shop. I would get a second opinion if I were you.

Not sure if this is exactly what you are looking for but you might check them out.

http://www.986online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Product+skukey_1137612983+Boxster+AftermarketAccessories-Boxster

I regret changing the water pump, which went out at 84K miles, and not changing the thermostat. If I had known about the 160 deg. LN I would have put it in.

When you put the fuel cap back on did you tighten it at least three clicks? A fuel cap that isn't tightened will cause a CEL.

Wow that's a lot of info to digest and I really want to thank everyone for taking the time to write out such great information. When I start the car I do hear the vacuum cleaner sound. I wish I hadn't as that certainly would have made things easier. This is what I figured I would attempt (in this order) and check each time to see if that addressed the issue.

1. Check for vacuum leaks (somehow beyond a visual inspection)

2. Replace the sensors

3. Check for electrical problems

4. Raid my kids college fund or win the lottery

Thank you everyone. Loren, I'm traveling for the next month or so but when I get back I'll gladly take you up on your offer of assistance, thank you.

All my best,

Gabriel

Please come back and tell us what the problem was.

Will a smoke test reveal leaks on the secondary air injection system? Is there some kind of control valve that isolates the air injection vacuum plumbing from the manifold until the DME signals the air pump to run? I've had a smoke test run on my car without showing any leaks there but nothing special was done to enable the air injection while the test was going on.

The car would most likely have to be left at the shop, that is doing the test, as the secondary air system, to my knowledge, comes on the first time the car is started to pump air into the cats so exhaust gases are minimized for pollution control. A smoke test would then see a vacuum leak in the secondary air system and if it is around the vacuum tank would detect one even after the secondary air system shuts off as the vacuum tank is supposed to keep a vacuum. There might also be a way to bypass the shut off for the secondary air system to keep it running but I can't verify that. The secondary air system also has three or four diaphragms connected by small hoses and the diaphragms can be made to open and close, without the SAS operating, so they can be checked. In my case the mechanic was doing a visual check of the secondary air system and had to remove the intake manifold to get to one of the diaphragms and spotted the disconnected vacuum line.

Let me first state the proverbial rule of "the cheapest Porsche you buy, will be the most expensive to own." Now, that said, there are a few ways of going about this. If you just want a roller, to put a new motor into (as I did when I bought my 03 S with an IMS failed engine to put a 3.8 into), then negotiate the best price you can get and have some fun (however, a 99 body makes a lot of the "better option" motors much more difficult). If you expect to fix this and get it running, that could be something as simple as a fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, chewed up wiring (which could take eons to track down and fix), or any number of "small things." It also could require a new motor, something you really can't diagnose without at least doing a compression and leak down check. You are also assuming that the people selling the car aren't lying to you (and the "can't get a clear answer" part is rather concerning in that regard).

Also, if you're going to "come up with the money for L&N" (which is really LN Engineering or LNE, not like K&N, who makes air filters), you're also going to need to find yourself a host of really strange, difficult to obtain, and expensive tools that are needed when working on these engines, and you better really know your way around a modern, complex engine to do it. Further, starting with a 2.5 is really a horrible idea, as the largest you could make it, even with a crank and bearing carrier change, is a 2.9. If you want to do the LN route, at least start with a 3.2, 3.4 or 3.6 (all of these can wind up with 99mm bores with Nickies, as they are made from the same castings).

If you want a project, and want to do it the easy/ right way, find an 03 or 04 car (S preferably), and swap a 3.6 or 3.8 in there, or build yourself a 3.8 (or now, a 4.0).

For the record, you are correct in that some 98 and 99's did have pressed in sleeves, which do fail, when Porsche tried to keep car production on line when their super duper "Lokasil" casting machine went down. Whether a slipped sleeve or a D-chunk cylinder wall failure, either would be diagnosed via a leakdown check.

More than likely, if I had to venture a guess, I'd say that the engine internals are probably fine, and that the car has just been neglected. Either way, I'd walk on this unless you could pick it up for almost nothing.

Did Porsche keep any engine serial numbers when they went to the process of using sleeves? Does that pertain to motors made in both factories or were the motors installed in the Finland factory made in Germany and shipped there for installation?

I have to throw a different take on this because I went through a similar problem with many of the codes you are getting. I went to two different independent Porsche certified mechanics and spent over $700 in smoke tests and diagnostics just to finally find out from an alert mechanic it was a 25 cent hose that had come undone from one of the diaphragms on the secondary air system. Along the way I was told I needed new 02 sensors, new cats, new secondary air system and etc. that would have cost upwards of $3K. Here's what I learned as it may apply to your situation. First, when you first start the car up in the morning do you hear a sound like a vacuum cleaner running, on the passenger side of the engine compartment, for about 20-30 seconds, then it goes off? If so then your secondary air pump is working. If not your secondary air pump system has a malfunction and is causing codes to appear further on up "the tree" which will cause your 02 sensors to read faulty emissions and bring up a code because your ECM has decide the car needs more or less fuel depending on what is happening before and after the cats. When the 02 sensor codes come up everyone tells you to replace them and guess what? You continue to get the codes because the secondary air system malfunction is still malfunctioning. So if it is check two places, the first is a small rubber bellows connection at the secondary air system vacuum tank. Being rubber and costing all of $1.80 it wears out and you now have a vacuum leak that causes the entire emissions system to malfunction. Check the vacuum tank as it is plastic and hardens from heat over the years and can crack. If none of those apply then check all the small vacuum lines coming from the secondary air pump especially the one under the intake manifold (this was where my problem was but only one mechanic out of three thought to look there). Typically having a smoke test done will find vacuum leaks and, compared to replacing items at random, is relatively inexpensive way to start.

If your secondary air system is working then you have another issue and Porsche has what they call "a tree" of diagnostic that is followed to hunt down these kinds of issues. I would find a good independent mechanic that is Porsche trained and highly recommended and consult with them. Indys are typically less expensive than dealers, less under pressure to get things done in a hurry, will sometimes do a free diagnostic and are invaluable in the long run.

I hope this helps and saves you some of the frustration, and money, I went through to fix a minor item that caused major problems.

A PPI (pre purchase inspection) from a certified Porsche shop is always a good idea before buying a Porsche and if it won't run to get it there then I'd walk. Don't know where you got the idea '99 had the problem you state with cylinder sleeves.

I just purchased a new Porsche Boxster outdoor car cover for my '99 986 and need some help on a couple of install questions. You might think well duh can't he read or figure it out but the cover I bought turned out to be for a 987 and not a 986 and I think the 987's are a little longer and wider. The lady who was selling it had gotten it with her Boxster and never opened it due to having a garage. She was confused about it's application and couldn't find the part number but for $75+$12 for shipping I couldn't pass this by. The cover seems to fit fine but the install instructions are vague about two things. The first instruction says to attach the suction cup to the windscreen. The only way I can get the cover to come out of the carry case is to attach the suction cup to the bottom of the windscreen in the middle of the wiper arms, otherwise the rear of the cover comes out where the front should be. Is this the correct place to attach the suction cup? The third step of the instructions is to lock the anti theft straps in the front bonnet. Where they are positioned, on the inside of the cover, it looks like they go into the bonnet from the top near the windscreen then the bonnet is closed. I guess the theory is the round cylindrical parts on the end of the straps catch inside the bonnet if someone tries to steal it. My question is is this the right place to put the straps as they really stretch out when the front of the cover is pulled on and are tight enough to bunch up the cover a bit where they are attached to the inside. Also couldn't someone just pull the cover up and cut the straps? Anyway if you have one of these covers and can answer my questions I would be grateful. I'm sure it will turn out to be a duh situation for me but that's happened before.

Windscreen is usually the rear lexan screen that is inserted between the rollbars.

We call it a windshield in the US but the Germans call it a windscreen. A car cover wouldn't attach to the lexan screen as the top would have to be down.

I just purchased a new Porsche Boxster outdoor car cover for my '99 986 and need some help on a couple of install questions. You might think well duh can't he read or figure it out but the cover I bought turned out to be for a 987 and not a 986 and I think the 987's are a little longer and wider. The lady who was selling it had gotten it with her Boxster and never opened it due to having a garage. She was confused about it's application and couldn't find the part number but for $75+$12 for shipping I couldn't pass this by. The cover seems to fit fine but the install instructions are vague about two things. The first instruction says to attach the suction cup to the windscreen. The only way I can get the cover to come out of the carry case is to attach the suction cup to the bottom of the windscreen in the middle of the wiper arms, otherwise the rear of the cover comes out where the front should be. Is this the correct place to attach the suction cup? The third step of the instructions is to lock the anti theft straps in the front bonnet. Where they are positioned, on the inside of the cover, it looks like they go into the bonnet from the top near the windscreen then the bonnet is closed. I guess the theory is the round cylindrical parts on the end of the straps catch inside the bonnet if someone tries to steal it. My question is is this the right place to put the straps as they really stretch out when the front of the cover is pulled on and are tight enough to bunch up the cover a bit where they are attached to the inside. Also couldn't someone just pull the cover up and cut the straps? Anyway if you have one of these covers and can answer my questions I would be grateful. I'm sure it will turn out to be a duh situation for me but that's happened before.

I purchased my stock '99 Boxster two years ago at the age of 62. The OEM suspension is different than yours the "S" cars have a suspension much like the ROW M030 Sport suspension, it might actually be the same. After a year of driving I was having serious doubts as to whether I could keep the car as the suspension was transmitting every bump in the road up through the seat and into my back. As a last ditch effort to keep the car I decided to invest in the ROW M030 suspension and have it installed on my car. I can't begin to tell you how much the car improved in all areas one of the primary one's being that the bumps are now absorbed by the suspension and no longer transmitted up through the seats. I realize installing a stiffer suspension sounds contrary to what you would think but my Boxster is now a pleasure to drive even for long distances. I'm not certain that a softer suspension is always the best way to go as there are trade offs there as well. Perhaps you need to have your suspension inspected for wear by someone who specializes in Porsche suspensions to see if new components might not make a difference. Just my thoughts.

Carrera conversion for someone? I know I'd do just about anything to keep my '99 out of the bone yard. Really sorry about your loss.

Same here, went with Sumitomo HTR ZIII's and use them for street, track and AX. I think they are a much better tire for all three than the OEM Pirellis and a lot less money.

You can also purchase black or silver lug bolt caps off eBay for $19. I've put black caps on mine and they look really nice.

Great looking top, I want that color for my Arctic Silver Boxster. Do you know if it's OEM?

Theory and practicality are two different animals. I would want to discuss the results with someone who has done it and can show it works before I altered the existing dynamics of my Boxster. For all the criticism Porsche takes for their design criteria the engineers have really designed a very good car.

Do what you like, mate. Why shouldn't you? Porsche made a good car to be sure, but they didn't get the speedo right.

Todd is correct. Such devices have been available for a while. Speedo signals are generated by turning a magnetic gear mounted on the wheel axle, thus generating a square wave signal with each passing gear, corresponding to the wheel turn - similar to using an AC motor in reverse. These correctors work by changing the square wave input frequency of the speed signal by a certain percentage and spits out the new square wave at the other end.

I don't know whether it'd work on the Boxster though. Has anyone tried it? There are four speed sensors, one at each wheel. The non-PSM/TC ABS system is supposed to compare the signals and throw an error code if the speeds don't match within a certain tolerance. Also, if you have PSM/TC, the wheel speed differential is what triggers biased braking. To do this correction "properly", you will need four such correctors. It may be possible to just use one corrector on the final output of the ABS system, but I don't know if the signal would have been converted to a voltage/current by that stage - certainly doable if it's still a frequency signal. But given the odometer is also in the instrument cluster, this might reduce your true odometer reading if it is true that the odometer displays the correct mileage and it's only the speedo that's off - this may or may not be a problem for some.

Another possible way to correct this that some speedometers have built-in calibration resisters near the needle mechanism. Anyone seen one of these when they opened their instrument cluster?

I will take mine off at some stage soon when I mount the OBD stalk. I will try to spot such a resister, if I remember.

Personally, I always found the visual accommodation required to look at the speedo distracting, especially as I drive 700km a week for work in my Boxster. I have installed HUDs in all my cars for comfort and I calibrate them to radar detector speeds, which seems to be 10% lower than the speedo indicates at all legal driving speeds.

Well they also didn't get the gas gauge right either and after spending almost $900 to correct mine, and it still isn't correct, I am hesitant to spend any more money on gauges until someone can prove what they've done is effective. I'm amazed that we used to get correct fuel gauge readings with a toilet float and armature and the "improved" electronics can't be accurate. If my Boxster is actually going 4-5mph slower than what is indicated on my readout perhaps it could be a good thing in instances where I'm being tagged by radar.

When it came time to replace the OEM Pirelli's on my '99 Boxster I did a couple of months of research (reviews, specs and talking to fellow DE and AXers) and decided on the Sumitomo HTR ZIII. They are quiet and comfortable on the road, excellent grip on the track and in AX, only slightly higher in cost to the Hankooks and are rated as a 30K mi. tire.