willcapp

LAPTOP CRASHED ---- Sorry for the non-reply after posting.

Thanks for the info. I do have the "tamper-resistant" trans plug. I'll have to do a search.

Anyone know of a good way to remove the bolts for the spark plug coil-overs? I was able to remove one, but the other 5 I could not get a good tool in there. Thoughts?

how does one determine the version of the MAF and/or determine if it is an early or later one?

NEVER MIND - -- found ToolPants info

It sounds like something has failed in the clutch/pressure plate area. Best get it towed into the dealer or good indie.

You are absolutely right. I have an Independent Porsche mechanic, so I took it to him....

Sure enough, the fork was busted, the clutch plate and flywheel were trashed. I paid $1640 cash for the repair with about $1000.00 in parts.

Great price for the work and now my clutch feels like a feather and it shifts almost magically.

Thanks everyone for your posts and assistance.

Regards,

Will

:clapping:

Thanks Loren for your feedback.

By "testing" the master and slave cylinders you mean pressing the clutch in an out? right? I guess my concern is the travel of the clutch pedal has shortened. It almost appears as something is impeding it's travel.

In either case I guess it's not the master or slave cylinder because there are no leaks present. So I still don't know what the problem is. I really don't know what to look for next.

Anyone have the directions for the step-by-step process of removing and replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders?

if you had diagrams or pictures, that would be great!!!! :jump:

Got a questions about some of the tools needed for repairs and where they are found.

Oil Drain Plug

Transmission Drain Plug

Transmission Fill Plug

Well, either the master or slave could be leaking internally.

The slave is high on the transmission and has a hydraulic hose going to it (also a bleed valve).

I'll check it out now....

So i got the car jacked up and peered underneath. It appears that everything is normal. No leaks.

Is there anything specifically to look for or check for that would tell me (or a mechanic) if it is the slave and/or master? What would be the next step in troubleshooting be to determine root cause?

Just click on the Donate link at the top left of any page and follow the instructions.

thanks again!

Well, either the master or slave could be leaking internally.

The slave is high on the transmission and has a hydraulic hose going to it (also a bleed valve).

I'll check it out now....

Contributing Members have viewing access to all TSBs here - but since they are copyrighted they can not be copied or printed.

I just became a contributing member. do you know how I can access the TSB's?

Regards,

Will

Ok, much different problem.

The clutch is hydraulic so there would likely be little seen movement except back at the slave cylinder - and most of the moving parts are inside the transmission housing.

Any signs of visible leaks at the clutch master cylinder (near the pedals) or the clutch slave cylinder (on the transmission)?

Sounds like either the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder is bad.

Loren, thanks for the reply and staying with me on this issue. :notworthy:

There appears to be no leaks at the brake fluid resivoir or master cylinder. I'm not sure where to look exactly for the slave. I know it's located on or around the transmission, but I don't know what it looks like or where on the transmission it's located.

Pictures are a definite help.

Thanks again for the assistance. :thumbup:

Can someone send me the TSB's or links to the following TSB's?

2/03 3001 Clutch Pedal Sticks (dated 10-24-03)

1/99 3005 Boost Spring for Clutch Pedal (dated 5-28-99)

1/00 3005 Clutch Pedal Noise (dated 9-8-00)

Thanks in advanced :help:

An update that may help some members of the forum (hopefully).

Could not fix problem, the clutch did not respond after my attempt to fix the issues with the pedal and slave cylinder. Dealer diagnosis was "need new clutch" $2500.

Will pick up car tomorow and put it for sale asap.

Do you know why the clutch did not fully extend the distance? and why a "clutch replacement" was required. I thought there were 2 parts....the pedal with the hydrolic components - master/slave and the transmission end with the clutch plate and fork.

Anyway, I have the same issue with the clutch not fully extending.

You say the car cranks which rules out the clutch switch.

So does the car start or not?

I said the car cranked up...meaning it started. Sorry for not being clear. The switch is not the problem.

While the engine is running...

I can not get it into any gear. The clutch feels like it doesn't go the full distance like it use to. :cursing:

How did you rule out the switch?

Connect the two wires and try it...

No. I held the switch down...It cranked up.....what I did find was the the clutch pedal does not travel the entire distance now. It stops a centimeter (or so) short of the metal switch.

As i stated in my original post, it feels like the clutch does not go the entire distance that it used to.

Is there a problem with the clutch assembly or the hydraulic system. I looked under the rear of the car at the linkage at it appears to be normal for the shifter. I don't know what to look for when it comes to troubleshooting a clutch

Thoughts?

:help:

The gray one.

(photo courtesy Tom Morris)

Great!!! That's what I needed to confirm that we are talking about the correct switch. So I can rule out the switch

So why won't the car start?

everything comes on....just no cranking.

I think you have only be one switch if your Boxster does not have cruise control.

I don't have cruise....but my understanding is the switch is engaged when you press the clutch to the floor. I use to hear a switch sound as well (which I don't hear now).

1. Where is the switch exactly that allows the engine to start?

2. If my clutch pedal doesn't travel the same difference it use to what would be the cause.

BTW - I don't see any leaks

:help:

just replied to you over on 986forum

I just read your post. I'm not asking about the ramifications of deactivating the switch. sorry if I wasn't clear. I can not find the switch (maybe I didn't state such in the post). There is 1 switch I found near the clutch arm. That switch is at the front and is depressed while the cluctch is not engaged.

I can not find a switch near the firewall that is only activated (depressed) when the clutch is pressed to the floor. Please advise. I am at wit's end!!!

:notworthy:

This might be unrelated, but yesterday I was having issues trying to get into all gears both to and from my destination. I went to work on car this morning and will not start.

Clutch pedal feels like it doesn't travel as far now too (maybe an inch) and I don't hear that switch sound at the end of travel of the clutch being depressed as before.

I checked brake/clutch fluid resivoir - OK

Shifter feels like it goes into all gears - while engine was off

I looked in the footwell for the switch that allows the engine to start and only saw one that it at the front of the pedal arm. the switch appears to be activated (depressed) when clutch is not engaged. I could not find any other switches.

2000 2.7 110K miles

Regards,

Will

<_<

I will check the spoiler drive motor. Where is it located?

The spoiler bulb still lights and diappears (as designed).

thanks again,

Will

the spoiler was deactivated some time ago due to a permanately mounted spoiler. I had it removed and would like to activate the automatic spoiler.

I checked the fuse and it is good, but the manual switch still does not raise/lower.

Anyone have a schematic/guide so I know where to look and what to look for?

:notworthy:

Thanks,

Will

'00 Boxster owner