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rogerjohnsen

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Everything posted by rogerjohnsen

  1. It's possible the CPS wasn't the culprit in the first place as I never was able to actually test it and the shop didn't save the old part. I was just elated to hear it fixed the problem so not sure why it worked. (Short lived in any event...) Anyway - I thank you gentlemen for your assistance with this and will keep you posted. Just got the new fuel pump ordered so should have the car back in a few days. Side note question - Assuming the fuel pump pressure was low, could this explain the car not seeming to have the same power as when I first got it? I have a lot of fast vehicles so thought maybe it's just me. I guess I'll find out soon enough but curious in the interim.
  2. I decided to have the car towed back to the shop that did the original repair so they could do a pressure test. I just received a call from them informing me I'm in need of a new fuel pump. Does this sound right?
  3. Should be easy enough - I'll check them tonight and report back. Thanks!!!
  4. Ahsai - In response to your post about the tachometer needle: The tachometer needle went from just below zero (key off) to zero (key on) to 1 notch above zero (cranking). I'm not sure that constitutes bouncing but it definitely moves. Will check the connector next.
  5. I see- Thank you for that explanation. Seems like will be worthwhile purchase the test kit. Is there any other tool that would be able see what's going on from a debugging perspective? I'm a computer science grad so thinking if I could see logs or messages from the computer this would give the most insight- at least in theory. Would a durametric reader accomplish this? As for the tachometer needle question- I will check and post back with the results. I can't imagine the CPS connector would be loose but will check that as well. I'll also check the output of the CPS on the ohm meter. Thanks again for your help. Super frustrating but I can't tell you how much I appreciate the knowledge on this site.
  6. I don't have a fuel pressure test unit. Is it worth buying or better to have it towed back to the shop? What is the bigger picture of what we're trying to accomplish by testing fuel pressure? Once again the car shows no sign of trouble and everything works flawlessly prior to this problem popping up. Side note: At least I have a significant number of tools and a lift now.
  7. It's happened again! I don't believe it but I'm having the exact same problem. I picked up the car and drove it approximately 15 miles and parked it. Just tried to start it this morning and I have the exact same problem. The engine initially started and then died. Subsequent attempts to start and the engine won't start but simply cranks over. Is it possible something upstream is causing this part to fail? This is a brand new CPS so I'm not sure why it would fail after 2 short rides.
  8. Whew - took me longer to get this sorted out than I anticipated... So I wasn't able to confirm the sensor was bad since I couldn't get to it given the limited amount of tools / resources. Ultimately I ended-up having the car towed and found a great little independent shop in the area. They were able to confirm the CPS was indeed the problem, replaced it and we're off & running. JFP in PA is a rockstar and nailed it as to what was causing the problem. I'm still a little shocked this is what it turned out to be but glad it was something minor and only wish I could have fixed it myself. Porsche of Tucson wanted almost $300 for the part alone but I was able to find a place online (RM European) that had it delivered the next day for $87.52 including shipping. It's a standard Bosch part so nothing really fancy there - just searched on the part number. Thanks you so much JFP in PA sir for your help and advice!!!
  9. I'm heading back down to my car today in an effort to check the CPS as recommended. I think I've pieced together enough posts to find the PCS and how to test it with the ohmmeter. Should be fun... Nothing like being broken down in Tucson, AZ. I have no clue about shops in the area although I did find a Porsche dealership here so I'm assuming I can at least get the part if it turns out to be the CPS. Thanks for your help and I'll post an update once I have it.
  10. Okay - I read about the CPS in other posts but remember it said something about error codes being present when this is the case. Can the CPS have gone bad without any error codes? I guess the fact there aren't any error codes is very concerning in general - makes me feel like I'm hunting for a needle in a haystack.
  11. Sorry- make that fuel pump hose issue... typing these from my phone.
  12. I was afraid on the digging part given that won't be too feasible here but hoping there was something obvious I was missing. No codes according to the obd or faults causing check engine. Just seems really weird the car would run perfect, sit for a few hours and then not start. Assuming no quick things to check I'll have it towed to the shop. Sorry about the lack of car details but for some reason thought they showed up automatically from my profile. It's been a while since I've signed on here so my recollection was off. Here's the car info... 2004 996 TT Cabriolet All stock. Approx. 40k miles Fueled at chevron over a week ago and drove a few times on that gas with no issues. Seems like I might smell faint gas smell trying to start for a while. Seems like ignition problem. Read about the fuel pump house issue so inspected the fuel pump and hoses are fine.
  13. The other day I drove my car approx. 20 miles and stopped at my destination. When I went to leave, the car would turn over and initially "almost" catch and then just turn over but not start. I have about a half tank of gas and there's no error codes showing - it just won't start. I searched around a bit and thought it could be the fuel pump hose issue that's somewhat common on these cars but removed the fuel pump and inspected the hoses. Any thoughts or suggestions on what to check? I'm sorry I don't have a lot of information at this point since the car is stranded at my in-laws and I don't have tools readily available. As far as before I parked it - the car was running fine and I had nothing out of the ordinary going on.
  14. Hard to say - the car was sits a lot but I didn't notice any noises before dropping it off to get the kit installed. It is an older kit - I think it's at least 5-6 years old. I guess I'll start by doing a little more research. If nothing comes up I'll get the SSK uninstalled to see if the issues persist and then go from there. The fact nobody else has seen this behavior is what I was really looking for I guess. I've seen rave reviews over the rear installed SSK vs. the console replacement option initially and haven't really seen any problems noted for the rear under mount. JFP - when you say problem plagued design - do you know of any handy references? I guess I'd just like to see what the list of problems are. Of course I tried to call the phone number for B&M listed on the paperwork and it was disconnected - I'm assuming they are still around - just with a new number so will try to call them as well. Regarding the obvious problem being the SSK - I'm not entirely sure. Like I said, I don't drive the car very much as it sits up on a lift I have to move a lot of cars to get it down. I know I've seen a lot of posts over the years about people having aftermarket SSK and don't recall seeing any real problems except for notchy feel. Could just be coincidence so not trying to throw B&M under the bus or anything. Anyway - thanks for the replies.
  15. I recently had a B&M SSK installed on my car. I've had it sitting around for a long while but just recently had it put in. It's the model that bolts on under the car directly to the transmission replacing the plate that anchors two cables coming from the front of the car. Since having it installed, I've noticed a whining noise coming from the front portion of the car. I can't really tell where but somewhere forward of the dash. It's pretty consistent and doesn't change pitch with RPMs - just a steady high-pitched whine. I'm assuming this is being caused by the SSK and searched around but didn't see anyone else having the same problem. Anyone have any ideas? Although I wish I would have had this SSK installed a long time ago, I'm thinking about having it removed if I can't figure out the noise problem. Another thing I noticed is the car's acceleration was "bogging down" when the turbo hit .4 boost. It's almost like the engine was trying to shut down and reminded me of the way a redline rev limiter works. The RPM's were only around 3-4K when this occured though. I think that might be the MAF so perhaps another problem. I don't drive the car that much so maybe that had something to do with it as well.
  16. Seeing how I had a good experience with the 19" Hankook V12's, I decided to have them installed on my stock 18" turbo wheels. I'm now realizing this turned out to be a bad idea. The handling is terrible - Floaty definitely describes it - like you turn and the car has to catch up with the tire direction. Most notable on tight turns and quick lane changes. Down right scary - although I haven't broken traction or engaged the PSM; it just feels weird and scary. I'm hoping more miles will erase the handling problems as others have indicated but my recommendation would be to steer clear of these on 18" wheels.
  17. Thanks - I found that article earlier but was wondering if the pictures just weren't showing on my end. Seems like it's across the board... :( There was another link on the last page of that post (http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/617689-i-need-a-diy-on-differential-seal-removal-and-flush.html) and it showed pictures but was really difficult to follow, from my perspective, as far as a DIY is concerned. Anyway, I'm going to try and get to it this weekend with camera in hand so can hopefully document the process. While the post on 6speed referenced a whining noise due to a faulty bearing - I don't have any noise that I could tell. What strikes me from the posts I've found, however, is none of the owners knew their seals were leaking until they were under the car doing some other work and noticed some fluid. This was the same in my case. No drips on the cement and everything seems fine. It wasn't until I removed the under tray did I even see the seals were leaking. Maybe worth checking on your car as well.
  18. Hello wross996TT. Yes - I saw a previous post where you mentioned you had that done. The part about it being too costly to replace the seal seems a little odd but who knows. I've seen some other posts where people have done the seal replacement and it seemed pretty straightforward - just not documented too well. I'm still hopeful someone knows of a DIY or some link that will help out...
  19. I recently had my '04 996TT cab at the dealership and was told I needed to have the front differential seal replaced due to a small leak. I decided to wait and check it out so put the car on the lift and took a look. I can definitely see some traces of what appears to be dried fluid around the driver's side and on the under tray cover so look's like I've got a looming project to tackle. Since the service advisor told me this is a "common problem" with these cars, I am surprised by how few posts I've found by searching. Nothing in the DIY section and only a few posts on various sites but nothing extremely detailed. Just curious if anyone can help out - maybe I missed a good post or DIY somewhere or perhaps some other help? Many thanks in advance!
  20. Sorry to revive an old thread but was curious: Did this ever get answered?
  21. First of all, I realize this post is almost 2 years old but thought I'd put a response in the event someone else has the same question at some point in the future... So the 5 rectangle clips must also be removed in order to release the underside tray and access the front differential. This can be easily done with two flat blade screw drivers. You'll see the clips are somewhat indented in the middle and rise slightly toward each end. Simply put one of the flat blade screw drivers into the side between the clip and the plastic under tray. Next, use a second flat blade on the edge of the clip - push up firmly and leverage away from the clip to release it. Once one side has been released and gently pulled down the other side will automatically release and you can remove the clip.
  22. Seems like the problem is pretty widespread - after refining my search terms somewhat I've found several posts which reference the same problem I'm experiencing. I just fixed my ignition switch problem and not too long ago the light switch assembly problem. Both of these problems are notoriously widespread as well so I guess I'm not surprised this one is as well. http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/21270-moaning-whistling-sound-gas-filler-compartment.html Many thanks for the advice helping to narrow down the source!
  23. Wow - Thanks! I do believe that is exactly what's going on. I guess the "flute" is a better description - it does kind of sound similar to blowing across the top of a bottle too. LOL Do all Boxsters do this? I've had mine from birth and swear I never heard the noise for the first several years I owned it...
  24. 2003 Boxster S I have this noise (like a howl) coming from the passenger side of the car. I can't tell exactly where but it's around the dash or front fender behind the fuel door. I think it's related to the air/heater fan or blower and seems to appear and disappear based on engine RPMs. I went through the 18 page list of Boxster common problems and did not see it; although I seem to recall seeing a post about it a while back. Searching hasn't turned anything up so I'm hoping someone can help out. It doesn't seem to be a huge problem and I've put up with it for the last 5-6 years but I'm thinking it's time to fix it... Many thanks!
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