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jasmus1

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Everything posted by jasmus1

  1. Here's the estimate list my dealer provided for the work. The dealer here in MA clearly likes to jack up their part prices (This is not the first time they have done this. The last time they tried to overcharge me for a new key remote, so I purchased one from Sunset and saved around $70 from what they wanted for the part). I asked Sunset for prices on these items and I would save around $550 purchasing the parts myself through them.
  2. That's good to know. Thanks for the tips. I'm shopping around for better prices. I'm even considering doing it myself. Heck, I even considered turning the car into an electric. Ha! But, I would miss the sound of the old petrol. Maybe one day though... If I did decide to bite the bullet and do the work myself, it would take me a long time, but I figure I would not only save a ton of cash, but also learn how to really work on my car (or discover how to really screw it up). First, I need to figure out what an AOS is... :)
  3. I dropped my car off at the Porsche dealer two days ago and they called me this morning with the news. It turns out that the Camshaft Solenoid Bank 2 needs replacing and that Bank 1 is leaking oil and needs to be addressed as well. They also told me that the RMS needs replacement as does the IMS bearing and that it makes sense to address these issues while the engine is dropped. The quote to fix them all? $6000 Double-ouch. I've never had any major work done to this car, so I really have no basis to go on. Does anyone know if this sounds appropriate? Any thoughts on whether I should have the dealer perform this or get an independent mechanic in the Boston South Shore area to do it? Any recommendations? Thank you in advance for your support and advice. JC
  4. Happy New Year! I tried activating Camshaft bank 2, but I keep getting an error from the Durametric telling me "Cannot send to sensor." So, nothing happens when I try to activate Cam 2. However, when I activate Cam 1 the engine idle changes dramatically. The values for the two banks are approximately -10.1 for cam bank 2 and -5.7 for cam bank 1. I'm not sure what those figures mean, however. The link you sent was pretty scary, to say the least. I cannot imagine doing that sort of work myself. I wish I could! I think I am sunk with no easy diy fixes unless anyone has more suggestions. Otherwise, I will let you all know how much it cost for Porsche to fix it. :( JC
  5. Interesting information... I will definitely look into your suggestions Nor Cal. I'll report back after. Thanks!
  6. I've been searching for this the past couple of weeks, but I am not having any luck finding a solution. My CEL came on and when I ran my Durametric I got the following: P1325 Porsche fault code 178 - camshaft adjustment bank 1 I searched the forums, but could only find help with bank 2. So, what I did was test the two banks with my Durametric. I found it interesting when I tested camshaft adjustment bank 1 by turning the solenoid off, there was a noticeable change in idle, but when I tested bank 2, there was no change in the idle. That makes me think maybe my Durametric is giving the wrong information and it is actually bank 2 that is the issue. Has anyone run across this problem? Any ideas how I might fix it? Thanks!
  7. Can't fix my CEL issue. Ugh.

  8. I wanted to report that I finally got the problem with my remote not working. I ended up having to purchase a new remote fob from Sunset Imports and having my local dealer set it up. The whole thing cost about $300. Worth it to me though. For some reason, the dealer told me the key remote that I had with the car was not supposed to work with my model anyway. Go figure. Thanks for everyone's help.
  9. I did manage to fix my passenger door handle by replacing and installing the tiny (and I mean tiny!) circlip discussed here. However, no matter how I tried, I could not install the clip from the inside of the door. What I did was I unscrewed the two nuts holding the outside door handle assembly and then carefully pulled out the handle from the outside of the door just enough so I could get the little clip attached to its post. Then, I put the whole thing back together and the door now works like a charm! The circlip cost about $2 from the Porsche dealer, but I am sure I saved a bunch of money doing it myself since it took about an hour and a half to disassemble the door, make the fix and put it all back together again. My only regret is that I didn't purchase another extra clip to replace when this happens again! Thanks for the guidance, Maurice. Now, if I could only get my remote key working again. But that's another topic that remains unsolved... JC
  10. I found the bolt inside the door, but I cannot get my hand up far enough to put it in place. Should I unscrew the two nuts holding the handle on from the inside to try and put the bolt on from the exterior? Or is there another technique? Thanks, JC
  11. I have a 1999 996 C4 and the passenger's door wouldn't open from the outside. So, I removed the door trim panel and it looks like there's a clip missing that attaches the locking mechanism to the outer door handle. I've seen this discussed on our forums here, but I cannot find the part I would need to fix this. I attached a photo of the inside of the door looking at the back of exterior door handle and the missing connection is on the right side. Does anyone know what I need to connect this inner locking arm to the exterior door handle? Can I just use a cotter pin? Also, what would be the easiest way to fix this? Many thanks in advance, JC
  12. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to say the name of which one, but one of the North American Porsche-themed magazines that just came out this month has an article about repairing the remote on a Boxter key (June issue #183, page 125). It is an interesting read. I haven't been able to fix mine yet, but thanks for all of the responses and suggestions to my initial post. I'll let everyone know when I solve my remote problem. Collin
  13. If I disconnect the battery will I need to enter my radio code for it to work? Is there anything else to look out for when the battery is disconnected? Thanks for this new suggestion. I'll try anything at this point. Collin
  14. Yes, I tried that and the remote still doesn't work. I'm going to try having the dealer reprogram the remote. I'll post results when I have it done. Thanks!
  15. Can the key be reprogrammed as is or do I need a special code? I ask because when I bought the car the key did not come with a code on a tag (like I have seen with my other car keys). Collin
  16. Thanks again. Is there a way to tell if the key head is defective without buying and programming a new one first?
  17. I thought maybe it was asleep, too and was disappointed when all of my efforts to wake it failed. What is a key "head" and where do I buy one? Is there a way to tell if my head is faulty? I did test my remote at a test station in an auto parts store and the tester said it was communicating fine. Can the head need replacing even when it is tested as sending a signal or does it sound like it needs to be reprogrammed? Thanks! Collin
  18. Thanks for the fast reply. Do you think I should try the dealer reprogramming option first? How much is a reasonable charge for this? I'm really curious why the remote would suddenly stop working like it did. Does anyone know why this would happen? I didn't drop the key and as far as I know it wasn't exposed to any strange energy fields other than what's in my pocket! :)
  19. I'm having trouble with my key remote operating my locks on my 1999, 996 C4. I've searched this topic, but cannot find a solution that works so I am hoping for some helpful ideas. My remote just stopped working one day and it hasn't worked since. I have tried the following: -installed new battery. LED works, but doesn't operate door locks. -reversed battery polarity. Still didn't work -pressed button while unlocking door. Nothing. -unlocked door manually, then pressed remote button. No luck. -turned on ignition, turned off and immediately tried using remote. Nada. I bought a Durametric tester and I get alarm fault codes 33 (faulty compartment monitoring sensor) and 42 (incorrect key or transponder). Every time I test I get these and only these fault codes. Also, the frequency of these codes is always 1. My key works fine to manually lock and unlock my doors. It also starts the car. My alarm also seems to be working fine. I just want to be lazy and operate my door locks with my remote button. I am at my wit's end trying to make my remote key work again. I was thinking about checking the fuse in the alarm system under my seat, but I don't want to go to the trouble of removing my seat if that's not a possible fix. Thank you in advance for your help and suggestions. This is my first post and I really appreciate your help. Collin
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