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dcboxster

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Everything posted by dcboxster

  1. dcboxster
    Thank you, Jeff. :D :clapping: :jump: Dave
  2. dcboxster
    Toolpants, as ever, you are a star. However, I will probably purchase the Hella twin supertones. They are half the price if I order them from the states and have the shipped (compared to UK)! I take it the existing relay will be up to the job? will I have to beef up the associated fuse (I'm going to purschase the B133 Hella supertone)? Thanks for everyones' help to date. Dave
  3. dcboxster
    Thanks TTD, I had a quick look with a mag lite the other day and didn’t notice one, however I’ll have a closer look this weekend and see what I can see. I could take the bumper off to have a look, but don’t fancy doing the job twice. If the Porsche units are expensive I’ll probably upgrade to some Hella units or similar as they’re probably cheaper (would also consider air horns, as there are some terrible drivers here in the UK!). Does anyone have any suggestions for a horn upgrade? If so, can they be fixed to the existing mounts? Dave Thanks Trauh, I take it the Hella horns are electric, not air horns that require additional compressor and have a delay when you hit the steering wheel? Dave :clapping:
  4. dcboxster
    Thanks TTD, I had a quick look with a mag lite the other day and didn’t notice one, however I’ll have a closer look this weekend and see what I can see. I could take the bumper off to have a look, but don’t fancy doing the job twice. If the Porsche units are expensive I’ll probably upgrade to some Hella units or similar as they’re probably cheaper (would also consider air horns, as there are some terrible drivers here in the UK!). Does anyone have any suggestions for a horn upgrade? If so, can they be fixed to the existing mounts? Dave
  5. dcboxster
    Gents, One of the horns on my '99 C2 CAB has stopped working (not sure if high or low tone) and I would therefore like to replace. As I'm not sure which one is not working I will just replace both. Does anyone know if this is a VW/Audi Group product? If so, does anyone know VW's or Audi's part number? (the reason I'm asking is that a friend of mine works for Audi and will be able to order the units at discounted price). Thank you, in anticipation of any help. :beer: Dave
  6. dcboxster
    Jeff, This one is not for your benefit, as I'm sure you already have a workshop manual for the 986, but thought I'd post this web site address for everyone else's benefit. http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm There are free downloadable workshop manuals in PDF format for most Porsches. I found the 986 Workshop manual invaluable when I owned a Boxster, especially when changing components like the exhaust and all the associated connecting sleeves etc, that may have corroded. Dave
  7. dcboxster
    Jeff, I bought the 996 exhausts with Bypass pipes from this seller in Germany and am absolutely 100% satisfied with the product and the service I received from them. A friend of mine has a 996 with the official PSE (3.4) and our cars sound identical. Definitely the best mod I've done to any car I've owned. :jump: I think that the e-bay listing has a downloadable 986 sound clip fitted with the exhaust you're referring to. Dave
  8. dcboxster
    Gentlemen, I recently became a contributing member (last weekend) but still can't seem to access the online TSB's. Does anyone have any ideas why, or suggestions? Many thanks, David
  9. dcboxster
    Gents, I am in the process of seeling my late '97' Boxster as I have a '99' Carrera 2 CAB on the way. However, I am a little confused with the heated rear screen and would greatly appreciate some help. Every time I open the drivers side window (right hand sie in UK) the heated rear screen switches itself on. This also happens when I open the drivers door (you know, when the window marginally drops). I have not gone to the extent of simply checking fuses, but don't think this would be the problem, as if a fuse was blown the light would not illuminate on the switch...would it? To further complicate matters, I am pretty sure that the heated hear screen is not actually functioning. However, the rear screen does some times clear, without using the heated rear screen (probably from the heat from the engine compartment). I know that this is not a straight forward one, but would appreciate some help from anyone who has, or is experiencing a similar problem, or any of the Guru's (such as Loren and Toopants) who may have some suggestions. Dave (dcboxster)
  10. dcboxster
    Hi Frank, The rear lower suspension arms (and integral balljoints) have now been replaced and all is quiet. My mechanic mate (Audi Master Technician) recreated the problem by putting the car up in the air and jacking the offside rear wheel up into the arch immitating the car under normal load on the road. I then proceeded to strike the rear offside rear whilst he listened for the rattle underneath. Although there was very little play in the ball joints to these arms you could hear and feel the rattle if you held the balljoint whilst the wheel was being struck. My mechanic mate reckons that this is also a common problem on Audi TT's, so Porsche are not alone with their poor development. However, I suppose you half expect this with specialist cars (I had a TVR Griffith 500, which cost me on average about £800-£1000 a month in replacement parts!). Anyway, if you have this checked out by your mechanic the part number is as follows: 986.331.043.07 The part is the same both sides and it is worth doing both at the same time even if one is more worn than the other. It took my mechanic about 45mins to fit both parts. Let me know how you get on. Dave (dcboxster)
  11. dcboxster
    Hello Frank, A mate of mine diagnosed the problem as the ball joints in the rear lower suspension arms that link to the chassis. The ball joints become worn and are itegral to the whole arm. I am having both the left and right arms replaced in the next fortnight and hope this will cure it. The arms are about £180 each inc. VAT and take 1-2 hours to fit. If your rattle dissapears when opening the throttle and is affected by temperature, then I think that you could have the same problem. I'll let you know if this cures the problem on my car, but please see the links below to threads on the Boxa.net forum which you should find self explanatory. This goes into much more detail about the problem with other owners that are also experiencing this/or a similar problem (I'm dctvr in that particular forum). If the link doesn't let you through, then sign up, as it is free and I beleive will help you no end. http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14089 http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15100 Regards, Dave
  12. dcboxster
    Hello Guys! The baffles have rotted in the rear box of my late 97 Boxster. I don't really want to spend a shed load of money on a new exhaust as I am going to upgrade to a Boxster S shortly. Therefore, can I have the exhaust cut open and the baffles just removed (without replacing)? If so, will this make it fail an MOT, but more importantly will it sound any better? :cheers:
  13. dcboxster
    thanks i'll try that next
  14. dcboxster
    Hello Chaps!, I have a late 97 boxster with around 55k on the clock and have a really annoying rattling noise from the rear of the car. This only ocurs when I drive over very bumpy road surfaces such as the slip resistant finish they are applying to areas of risk here in the UK and is especially bad on a concrete road. The noise stops instantly as soon as I open the throttle or ride the brakes. It also seems to be worse once the engine has reached normal operating temperature. I have been in touch with many other boxster owners who say that they have exactly the same problem, but have not been able to work out what the problem is. Furthermore, this problem has completely perplexed 2 official porsche centres in the UK. Something else worth mentioning is that the noise comes sometimes from the left rear side of the car, sometimes from the right rear side of the car and on surfaces such as concrete roads both sides at the rear. I don't think that the problem is drivetrain related as there is ansolutely no driveline shunt, therefore, I am convinced that it is something to do with the suspension make up. Anyway, any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
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