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shubchs

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Posts posted by shubchs

  1. I have a 2001 Cab, with Tiptronic, with 16K miles USA model, and although I have no noise, no fluids leaking, I am getting concerned about replacing the IMS.  as I have heard many horror stories.  I purchased this car new in Sept 2001 (two days before the horrible event of 911).  I live in the St Paul Minnesota area.

     

    1.   Could you folks please reply with the cost of a competent mechanics cost to replace it.   

    2.   I understand there are different manufacturers of this bearing, with some making improved versions,  and so could you please also give me some thoughts on who makes the best.

    3.  I also understand (from a UK member) that there are install kits available, and so I would love to know if this exists in the USA also.

     

    Any other suggestions/comments/advice would be greatly appreciated.

  2. P1128 bank # 1

    P1130 Bank # 2

    However, this is the second time the check engine light came on, we then cleared the codes, and have gone some hours driving and no check engine light returns. Strange. The last time the engine light came on was directly after an oil & filter change, just prior to mothballing the car for the winter. Cleared the codes in the Spring, and so far no engine light return. Methinks to leave it ALONE!

    What code(s) are you getting?

  3. Anyone have any ideas on this problem.: I had an oil and filter change, (0-49 mobil one,, and porsche filter and washer), immediately after the change the engine light came on. I am returning tomorrow to the service station, and would appreciate some ideas to discuss with the mechanic. No refueling was done, and nothing else (I was standing by) was touched...

    Maybe just a coincidence of course and something else is going on. the car ran fine on the way home, ambient temp (in Oct) was about 60 degrees. I detached both oil filler and gas cap, and re fixed them.

    Thanks in advance for some ideas.

  4. Thanks again Loren, I think I'll check the MAF, I pretty sure there is a DIY for old fogies like me, yes?

    Stevethankyou.gif

    P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

    P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

    Possible fault causes:

    – Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

    – Intake air system leaking

    – Fuel pressure too low

    – Volume supply of fuel pump too low

    – Fuel injectors fouled

    – Exhaust system leaking

    I would start with cleaning the MAF.

  5. Thanks Loren, will the tester you mentioned (PST2 or PIWIS) also turn on the front radiator fans?

    The engine compartment purge fan rarely comes on. Mine has only come on twice -- and I live in 90 plus degree California! Here are the conditions the fan comes on at.

    From the service manual...

    "Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the engine compartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F.

    After-running of engine compartment fan

    If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is > 185 degrees F , the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds."

    You will need a tool like a PST2 or PIWIS tester to manually turn on the fans for testing. Not sure if the latest Durametric can do this or not.

  6. You are talking about the engine compartment purge fan1 -- not the front radiator fans - correct?

    Thanks for the reply Loren, it's been awhile!

    Yes, I was talking about the engine compartment fan, on my car (with the aero kit), a 996 2001 Cab, The fan in question is located on the underside of the engine compartment lid.

    I note you called it fan 1. Is there another fan called purge fan 2 or more?

    And while I'm thinking about it, I have never heard the fans in the front (the radiator fans), is there a way i can turn them on manually also? Because of the factory Aero kit, I have three radiatiors in front, one being in the middle.

    I don't know how you do it Loren, all the questions on these cars, let alone all the other models, how the heck do you do it?clapping.gif

    Best regards,

    Steve

  7. know there have been numerous discussions on this topic, but one not covered, and one I need to check out is:

    1. How to activate the engine fan manually?

    2. The reason is i am wondering if my fan is operative at all. Although the ambient temp is hovering around 88 degrees, the engine temp is on the end of the 180 degree mark on the gauge, but the fan did not come on when driving, nor did it come on when I parked the car. I have taken to opening up the engine compartment to compensate.

    3. Does opening up the engine compartment after driving preclude the fan from kicking in?

    4.What does the code P1128 and P1130 signify on a read out of faults?

    TIA

    Steve Hubbard

    PCA member since 1961

  8. Many thanks for the replies. Thankfully none of my horror thoughts came to fruition. My local wrench was able to put his machine on it this morning, and the fault codes were not serious he stated. They were P1128 &P1130, and he said they were oxygen sensor codes, and he thought due to the old gas from the previous season that (although I used STABIL while in hibernation), was the reason. He cleared the codes, filled up the gas tank, and then I went for a good brisk ride (in 90 degree heat & the AC on max), and no repeat Check light! Boy, was I relived! I have read so many horror stories about oil & water mixing, and the inevitable repairs that are a consequence, I was a bit paranoid I guess!

    I would like to know exactly what those error codes meant to our digest group, so please would someone (perhaps Loren, old friend) tell me what those codes meant? P1128 and P1130 are thothe ones that came up.

    So thanks again for the replies, and I hope this will allay some others of these dreaded fears of ours!

    WHEW!!

  9. My search turns up so many items on this subject, but as I can't get to a shop to get a read out, I have one question that may help me: Today after doing a short run at 88 degrees ambient temp (hot for MN!), and with the engine (12,000 odometer miles) running just fine I decided to turn on the AC, somewhat later, maybe 15 minutes or so I noticed the check engine light came on. The gauge creeped up to about 200 degrees, so i began to worry. pulled over and checked the coolant level, which was fine.(doesn't seem to be any oil mixed in) undid the gas cap, but no change in the check engine light, checked the oil it was fine, and didn't feel any water between my fingers. And nothing leaking onto the floor. turned off the AC, just in case, and proceeded to me destination some 3 miles away. After letting the car cooled, down, checked the fluids again, and all were OK. Started the car, and all idiot lights went off with the exception of the check engine light.

    I know I need to get to a shop on Monday, to have the fault read out, but in the meantime I am posing the question: If I find and correct the fault, whether or not it be something simple like the gas cap thingy, or low on fluids, would the check light turn off automatically after the correction?

    After 9 years of faultless driving, albeit only in the summers, and in the summers at least good long runs monthly, and all services by the "book", this is my first glitch, and I ave fears of oil mixing with water, or vice-versa and all the other major problems that I have been reading about for all these years.....

    Any and all comments will be appreciated.

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