jesiv

Understand the rules and agree! Sounds really cool. Curious about the calibration?

Regards

James

Didn't make it :-( 97k irreparable head crack from water pump impeller failure. Trying to source good drivers side head for 2003-4 Boxster S to get it back on the road. Otherwise economically repair doesn't make sense

I took my car to the dealership to have the suspension inspected. They did it as a courtesy as they do most of the work on my car. I was told that my suspension was in excellent shap and that I had ver little movement in my right rear track arm. They test it by jacking up the car and hold the track arm while hitting the wheel with a heavy rubber hammer to see if there is any movement. It is amazing how this little movement translates into such an annoying sound!!! Seems almost like the funny bone in your arm. Just a little impact has such a dramatic outcome!!

My plan is to replace the arm when I replace the rear tires and have the alignment done. The other question is weather I have both done in anticipation of the driver side failure. I am thinking I will replace both track arms with stock components as they have lasted 94k and no reason do upgrade as I am happy with my stock S ride.

I will keep you posted as to my progress

Regards

James

On mine you just go to the menu and turn ap on or off. No computer required on the Bose option

I have the famous clunking track arm issue and thought it was time to develop a strategy for what I should do to my suspension. Should I remain stock it is a 2003 Boxster S or go with After Market suspension. I want to go in once and be done with it. I don't want to continuously tweke the suspension. I just completely rebuilt my 914 suspension and it drives like new. That's what I want to do with the Boxster.

What would you do?

Regards

James

Gotcha. With that thinking, since only one arm is making noise. It would save me the cost of an alignment by replacing both arms together as opposed to seperately.

I agree with the adjustable arms but with the factory part with no adjustment. Would it still be required?Thank you for your help

Is an alignment required after installation?

Years ago I was changing the oil in my 69 Comet Cyclone. I drained the oil, changed the filter and proceed to add all 5 quarts of oil. Went into the house and when I came back to the garage… I had 5 quarts of oil all over the floor of the garage. The bad side was all the oil to clean up. The upside was that I didn't start driving the car. Knock on wood… I haven't done that again.

FWIW My dealer is recommending http://www.fidelitywarrantyservices.com/ They nothing but good things to say.

Understood. Thus everything being said, it seems logical that one would be better off while warming up or cruising to maintain RPM under or above the 3000-3250 RPM mark. Would you consider that a fair statement? Thank you for your help!!

Totally up to you. What you need to consider is that your road speed in that range is going to be around 70 MPH (+/- depending upon wheel/tire combo) and that a large number of owners are blissfully unaware of the harmonic zones and cruise for long periods at those speeds everyday without a problem. Track usage cars buzz past this range dozens of times every hour, again without issue.

The reality of the IMS issue is that, yes, they are somewhat prone to catastrophic failures, but currently at an unknown rate. What is known is that more frequent oil changes and usage of heavier weight oils seem to help. However, if the level of concern is high enough to cause you to alter how you use the car, or loss of sleep, there is also a known and proven fix for the problem…………….

So should I avoid crusing at 3000 to 3200 RMP? :unsure:

So I have heard all these rumors regarding 3000 RPM with the M96 engine that there is some harmonic imbalance/distortion at 3000 RPM and is related to the IMS bearing failures. Is this an urban legend? It just seems like such a natural rpm during initial drive warm-up. It also fits with legal speeds.

Does anyone know if driving at 3000 RPM is a bad thing related to the engine or more specifically the IMS?

Take it to an autoparts store and they will usually read the DTC codes for free.

I didn't know that. An autopart can read the codes... Excellent :clapping:

I have had the clutch micro-switch replace twice in the last year. Pushing the clutch all the way to the floor seems to cause the switch to fail rather quickly. If you slowly press the clucth in you will hear a click. That is as far was you need to go. Any more and you are just compressing the switch. I have been told you can simply pry the contact back but have not tried this as it was under warranty and they just replaced it no questions asked. Good Luck

I had the same issues. Try turning the alarm on and off.

There is a lot of confusing information here (for me anyway) re OBC and Cruise retrofit! And as the old saying goes... A little information in the wrong hands can be a dangerous thing

After reading the thread it appears that to add cruise and obc to a 997 I need to purchase is the following:

a. 1 x 997 613 261 00 01C - Cruise Control Switch

b. 1 x 997 622 674 00 - Wiring Harness

c. 2 x N 909 068 01 - Torx Screws

d. 1 x N 910 207 01 - Steering Wheel Screw

e. 1 x 997 552 475 03 A03 - Black Lower Steering Column Housing

Do this parts work on my 986? Also it is my understanding that getting the dual stalk with odc and cruise is actually cheaper or atleast has more of a cost benifit.

I am thinking this would be a nice addition :D . I really don't want to do it myself (At my age, I really don't need the drama of the actual install). Has anyone in the SF Area done this or know of a shop or dealer that has successfully performed this retrofit?

I am checking with a local Porsche dealer to see if they will do it (my car is still cpo for another 1.5 years )

Any recommendations, comments, suggestions or conerns are requested. :)

Those are the parts you would need to do a 987/997 cruise retrofit. If your car is 2003, then you have a 986/996.

So does anyone know what parts are i need for a 2003 boxster. I thought the 2003 and 2004 required fewer/different parts that earlier models < 2002 :huh:

There is a lot of information here in this thread! And as the old saying goes... A little information in the wrong hands can be a dangerous thing

After reading the thread it appears that to add cruise and obc on my 2003 I need to purchase is the following:

a. 1 x 997 613 261 00 01C - Cruise Control Switch

b. 1 x 997 622 674 00 - Wiring Harness

c. 2 x N 909 068 01 - Torx Screws

d. 1 x N 910 207 01 - Steering Wheel Screw

e. 1 x 997 552 475 03 A03 - Black Lower Steering Column Housing

It is also my understanding that getting the dual stalk with odc and cruise is actually cheaper or atleast has more of a cost benifit.

I am thinking this would be a nice addition :D . I really don't want to do it myself (At my age, I really don't need the drama of the actual install). Has anyone in the SF Area done this or know of a shop or dealer that has successfully performed this retrofit?

I am checking with a local Porsche dealer to see if they will do it (my car is still cpo for another 1.5 years )

Comments, suggestions or conerns are requested. :)

Well how fast you intend to drive is the point. I have replaced 3 tires since April two due to screws and one because there was too much wear difference between the new tire and other front tire. <_<

From what I learned it is not so much the plug failing as the integrity of the tire has been compromised. For what it is worth driving at highway speed limits plug away... driving in the three digits 100+ mph get a new tire not worth the risk (at least it wasn't for me).