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xavi.ordonez

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Posts posted by xavi.ordonez

  1. it's the micro switch on the lock mechanism, the bottom of the part that acctually laches and hold the door closed, it wears out and prevents it from pressing the micro switch when the door is open. let me know if you need pictures i can take some if you want i have a lock from a previos swap.

    no need for replacement just take the lock mechanism out, locate the switch at the bottom take it out. make the mounting holes a bit biger towards the top so the switch is closer to the actuating part of the mechanism and add some JB Weld let it set for 24 hrs and you are good to go.

  2. 2001 Boxster 39,478 miles weekend car only.

    Boxster will start right up, no puff of smoke, no idel problems. COMPLETELY NORMAL. Drives fine no rattle missfire. Go to store come out. WON'T START.... Crank it once. (ENGINE TURNS NO START).. Crank it again..(ENGINE TURNS NO START) THIRD TIME ( STRUGGLES A LITTLE BIT, BUT STARTS AND RUNS FINE) ..... Go home and park it.

    Next Sunday ALL OVER AGAIN but this time when I when I get home try to start and it won't start until the 3rd time. Had to go out of town for 2 weeks come back. AGAIN SAME THING.

    NO CHECK ENGINE CODES, THE WEIRD THING IS THAT IT WILL START RIGHT UP WITH OUT ANY ISSUES THE FIRST TIME AFTER SITTING FOR A WEEK.

  3. Let me start by saying that tomorrow morning will be a sad sad day, as I will be parting from my first Porsche that I bought when i was just 17 years old. Never thought this day would come. with that said here is a link to the manual that has help me so much and hope that someone will use and help out. Thank YOU!!! You will be miss......

  4. The crack in the oil filler hose was causing the CEL to show a rich condition, found the whole patch it up with air conditioning insulation tape similar to this http://shop.corvettecentral.com/1963-96-Corvette-Air/C2-1963-1967/HeatingAir-Conditioning/-p7265745.html and then aluminum tape on top of that for heat protection ( make sure to overlap). The insulation tape worked great since it is stiky and flexible you can really work it between the ridges on the elbow of the oil filler house. It's not an expensive part but I had all the materials left over from an other project.

    The important thing is that YES an small whole in the oil filler hose can cause a CEL. Don't go replacing oxygen sensors like crazy just yet!!!

  5. According to the ODB II Manual the potential causes for a P1123 are:

    - Fuel pressure too high.

    - Fuel injector leaking.

    - EVAP canister purge valve open.

    Other possible causes (per past experiences) are:

    Water in the air cleaner housing.

    Crack in the oil filler hose.

    HOW WOULD A CRACK IN THE OIL FILLER HOSE CAUSE A P1123 "RUNNING RICH" CONDITION? CUZ I THINK THAT'S WHAT I HAVE!!!

  6. I'm happy to inform you that I was right. The door lock mechanism for 97 boxster and 00 01 Passat are the same. Just finished the installation and I saved $$$$. I was able to pick up a used one for $45 bucks. If you want it new it's 150 from VW. any questions on the Tumbler feel free to ask.

  7. Indeed, you should not need to recalibrate the fuel pump level sender when you replace it with a new unit. I have done this quite a few times with no problems. The new units work flawlessly, as long as you don't get the hoses tangled up on the sending unit as discussed in my article.

    -Wayne

    Yes, but must you remove the fuel and just add 12 liters if you are replacing just the sending unit?

    I'm not sure where that requirement came from - if it's from Porsche, I'm not sure their reasoning behind it.

    When replacing your fuel pump, I recommend that you empty your tank all the way regardless. It's very easy to do, I have instructions on how to safely do this in my fuel pump replacement article: http://www.pelicanpa...L-Fuel_Pump.htm

    Also, I do like to run the pump with some fuel prior to starting the car. It's good practice to fill and prime the lines prior to starting up. You can jumper the pump as described in the above DIY article in order to accomplish this.

    I haven't heard of any Boxster "calibration" issues with new senders - I think the system / circuit is pretty basic, and very similar to how it is on the older air cooled cars.

    Hope this helps,

    -Wayne

    Wayne thank you so much for all your help. Your article really help a lot specially on how to jumper the pump. thank you so much

  8. New Update

    I did not remove the fuel. but I did prime the fuel pump by bipassing the relay by connectiong the No.30 to No.87 connection for the fuel pump relay on the relay panel under the dash for 30 seconds. then I installed the relay back and the car started right up. I'm driving again.

  9. Indeed, you should not need to recalibrate the fuel pump level sender when you replace it with a new unit. I have done this quite a few times with no problems. The new units work flawlessly, as long as you don't get the hoses tangled up on the sending unit as discussed in my article.

    -Wayne

    Yes, but must you remove the fuel and just add 12 liters if you are replacing just the sending unit?

  10. Yes, the fuel pump level should work just after installation. I took the sending unit out yesterday and after careful examination noticed that the connections on the floter where not touching. After installing the new sending unit. Problem solved! The FUEL GAGE WORKS!!!jajajaja Now the pump doesn't work AND THE CAR WON'T START!!!! OMG!!!!

    I didn't remove the fuel or disturbed the actual fuel pump on the bottom of the tank. Just strait foward disconection of the inside fuel lines and connector to sending unit. Actually i wanted to check that the floater was not resting on the inside fuel lines as suggested in Waye R. Dempsey "HOW TO REMPLACE THE FUEL PUMP"

    I have checked the fuse and relay. They are fine.

    MUST YOU DRAIN THE FUEL TANK TO ALLOW PROPER PRIMING OF THE PUMP AFTER IT LOOSES PRESSURE DUE TO DISCONNECTION!!!!!

    Any suggestions!!!!

  11. Please do not double post - you already posted this in another thread. Please re-read the Board Guideline/Rules that you agreed to when you registered here.

    Yes, if you replace the fuel pump or fuel level sensor the gauge/sensor needs to be re-calibrated using a Porsche PST2 or Porsche PIWIS tester.

    Thank You very much sorry for the double post. I won't happen again.

  12. I never add any more fuel once the gas stops on its own. I tightened mine fairly tight using a screw driver and hammer to tighten it. I could have gone tighter but once I felt it was snug enough not to leak I left it alone. I'm still not sure what would have caused this part to fail so soon.

    Scott

    Hi, I just remplaced my fuel pump and the gas gauge doesn't work now. Does anyone know if you have to reset it the fuel pump?

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