jagman1

Mine came with two plus the dummy for the Keyless entry. When I lost one it was about $350 for a new one, that price included programming.

No they do not. The high alcohol content will damage the fuel system.

PS. You think you get bad gas mileage now! E85 will yield 30-50% worse mileage. It's a lousy alternative fuel source...

I've finally sorted this out. It ended up being the Terminal 15 relay under the drivers seat next to the battery. It turns out this relay is responsible for powering the CAN bus and had an intermittent fault.

Total cost $18. And 15 hours of my life searching for it.

Thanks for all the suggestions along the way.

My '04 has been doing this for years as well. It doesn't always happen, but is worse in cold weather. 102k miles

No mods. I've had the car for 5 years and there have been no equipment changes or other issues in that time. I've checked under the front carpets for signs of water intrusion and found it completely dry. No signs of ever suffering a leak.

I've been having the following issues for about a month, and still don't have a solution. I'm posting here to broaden the knowledge base I'm using to try and figure this out. Here's the problem ('04 CTT):

Start the car (it starts right up), then a series of warnings appear: Air suspension, brake proportioning, AWD failure, PSM failure, and PRND is either blanked out or highlighted (as if all gears are currently selected). During this time I can't move it out of park.

After idling for about 30 seconds, all the warnings clear on their own and the car is 100% perfect. No issues whatsoever.

So far I've replaced the battery (single battery CTT) and it didn't change anything. Durametric is showing errors in all the modules that I've listed, but all the errors are the same, "CAN Bus No signal/no communication." The only other code that is new is in the Vehicle Electrical section of Durametric. It is code 576 for Terminal 15 implausible signal.

When I clear the codes they all clear and do not return. If I restart the car and the failures appear, the same codes get set, and the cycle repeats.

The errors never return during a drive. Every time I start the car, I have a 50% chance of getting the errors. The other 50% of the time, no errors and everything is normal.

When you say you reheated the solder around the chip, how exactly did you do that? I'm curious for future electronic repair endeavors that I may face.

Awesome job!

If by 'line' you mean the center, straight up position. Then that behavior is normal. You'll see it go from straight up to approaching the next tic mark every few minutes. It will do it quite often in traffic.

There is a setting in the display screen between the speedo and tach that controls this. It's for when you're towing things. Deselect "Both" and it should fix your 'problem'.

I've been on Mobil 1 synthetic ATF for 2.5 years now. It used to be approved now it's not. I'm not recommending it specifically, rather saying don't lose sleep over using an unapproved fluid.

I caveat that statement with this: unapproved fluids still must be of the 'correct' type. Aka, don't use the wrong fluid.

Those look more like they're a part of the PCV system to me.

To replace the starter, the intake manifold is removed along with several vacuum lines and sensors. It's likely that they missed something, or damaged something in replacing the starter.

Are ball joints even available separately?

Is the rear blower fan running? Put your ear near the intake which is located on the left side of the cargo area and give a listen.

As a point of reference, I've always been surprised at how little the ride quality changes on my CTT when I switch from my summer 20" wheels to my winter 18" wheels. There is a difference, but it is very slight.

Also, don't forget that the side wall height is a percentage of width. A 275/40/20 tire means that the side wall height is 40% of 275mm. So, doing the math that means you have a 110mm sidewall height.

In your original post you said you were considering 255/45/20's. That equates to a 114.75mm sidewall height. A pretty insignificant difference (~5%).

I have a slight idle dip when slowing to a stop. It happens at about 3-5 mph. RPM's drop to about 400-500 (roughly 100rpm less than idle) for a split second. It feels to me like the transmission is a little slow at deselecting the gear (I'm assuming 2nd). I believe the car stays in gear for a second longer than it should, and that 'lugs' the engine for a second. With all the talk of valve body issues it follows the path of a common failure item. My issue does not sound nearly as obtrusive as yours, as in, nobody but me can notice this. Mine's been doing it since 55K miles and I'm at 93K now.

Just watched your video...

It doesn't look like the same issue.

Replacing the T-stat is a failry involved job. It might not be the best 'first' repair job. That said, you have to start somewhere...

You do not need the special tool to do the job. It's function can be done with your hands.

I think it's PCV. I noticed it broken when I did my coolant pipes and had the intake manifold off. I just took the old broken T out and put a new one in using the same lines.

I've noticed the same T broken on many pictures from coolant pipe replacements DIY's.

Did the front and rear diffs today. I used the Porsche fluid. Easy job. Front fluid was much darker (brownish) than the rear. No significant particulate; it definitely needed changing though. Only hiccup was the five extra minutes I had to spend cutting down the allen wrench to get it into the tight clearance for the front diff.

Did the transfer case last night. Used Mobil 1 Synth ATF. Also easy.

Of note: none of the three units required new o-rings or washer seals. The diffs have orings which were in good shape (they're not rubber), and the transfer case I used some Blue RTV sealer replacing what was there originally. I've learned my lesson when it comes to replacing orings. Not all are created equal, and these were made of something more durable than rubber.

'04 CTT 86K miles.

I did this repair as well. I used 5 minute epoxy to rebuild the melted plastic beneath the contacts. Once back at the original height, all was well.

'04 CTT w/ 83K miles

I had a knocking noise coming from the vicinity of the water pump; it was audible at idle when standing near the hood. Took me about 6 hours, it wasn't hard, but there are some frustrating parts due to the tightness of the space between the radiator fans and the drive belt pulleys.

I also replaced the drive belt while I was there (7 years old/83K miles). Replacing it added about 2 hours to the job and was easily the most frustrating part of the job. There are a bunch of quick release PCV lines and vacuum lines that needed to be disconnected (and they aren't very 'quick' release), and doing that without breaking things is challenging. Especially when you're dealing with 7 year old PCV fittings that have become a bit brittle.

Torques: Water pump to engine block 7.5ft-lbs. Pulley to water pump: 17ft-lbs.

Pump:$175, gasket: $4, and Drive belt: $110. All sourced locally from an import parts place. I could've saved a little more by ordering online. Cheaper than the dealer though.

I used the DIY below from 6speed. Thanks to whomever wrote it.

http://www.6speedonl...tml#post3400288

Can't help with the specifics, but CH11S is dark green in color when new...

Typically modern automotive gas tanks made of thermo-plastic cannot be repaired. That is the official position anyway. I've never heard of a successful repair; that doesn't mean it's possible. Junk yard would be your cheapest route. The good news is all the tanks from a V6/8 or turbo should fit. I bet the newer Cayennes with direct injection have different tanks though.

I feel your pain. It took me 20 hours too. It's a ***** of a job. I spent 10 hours replacing the t-fittings at the back of the motor. I broke a breather line too. I spliced the two broken pieces together with some rubber hose.

Have you checked the refrigerant pressure??? Just do this simple check before you start chasing much more $$ and complicated solutions. The system does weird things with low pressure, including exactly what you're describing.