jagman1

I am working through a similar issue. No water temp change, but the cabin air temp changes from side to side and runs cold when I want hot. My mechanic hooked it up to the computer and said that he can see the action of each of the servos - cool - and they are all 100%. grrr.. So we are trying to change out the cabin air temp sensor to see if it fixes it.

A year ago, my A/C needed recharge. My symptoms were warm air, and a significant temperature difference between the left and right sides. Recharged solved that. I was very confused initially at the difference in temp between the left and right sides. I thought I had a flapper valve issue. Low and behold the recharge fixed it all.

As for engine temperature it is not uncommon for the temp gauge to venture 2-3 needle widths right of straight up (whatever temp that is, I forget). If that's as hot as it's getting then you're fine.

It only takes 45 minutes to an hour to get the intake manifold off to get at the starter. I'd say leave it be. It by no means is any harder to change than any other starter despite its unusual location.

Hello to all,

I am new to this forum as my wife and I will be receiving our 2005 Cayenne S in a few days. I had read that the plastic coolant lines on the Cayenne have a tendency to crack which can be quite a disaster. Upon the negotiations with the dealer, they agreed to include the new aluminum plumbing kit with the sale of the vehicle. I am very mechanically handy and will be doing a complete Step-By-Step DIY write-up instruction manual filled with high definition color pictures and posting it here in the forum for other members that would like to accomplish this job without paying dealer service fees.

What I am specifically looking for are the torque specs for each of the bolts that I will be removing and re-installing.

I thank you for your time, this looks to be a great forum.

All my best,

-Cameron

I looked at the torque specs when I did the job. I can't remember them specifically, but the intake manifold was 17ft-lbs ish. and the thermostat housing was ~10ft-lbs. Those are the only really critical pieces. For the others just use common sense and you'll be fine.

PS I replaced my thermostat too. I hate how older cars take longer to warm up in the winter.

A few painful hours, a flashlight, a long pair of angled needle nose pliers, a knife, a small flat head, a long flat head and several busted/ scraped up knuckles and I finally got the bottom hose to the T-pipe out. The major problem I had was the hose had melted to the pipe so even with the clamp removed it wouldnt come off. So I had to slice and tear and twist and poke at it for quite a bit of time to loosen it.

As promised, here is a picture of both T's and their respective rubber hoses. My leak occured when the bottom T broke off of the hose to the left. The hose on the bottom right broke as I was removing it.

If you're going to do this yourself, be patient and persistent, and patient and patient.

Its going to be a real B*#ch to get that bottom hose back on securely.

I too just finished the coolant pipe swap this weekend on my '04 CTT. The job was a real pain. Literally. My recommendations to make the job easier is to get a set of cable operated hose clamp pliers. I don't think I could have done it without them. All told it took me about 20 hours to complete the job. 10 hours were spent on the t-fittings at the back of the engine alone. My knuckles are trashed.

In any case, I bought the kit from Sunset, it came with the two T fittings too.

I had no leaks, and did the job preemptively. The parts I removed were not particularly brittle either, and looked like they had many more miles left in them (72K on the CTT now).

That broken white plastic piece is some sort of vent or vaccuum line possibly related to the PCV system. It is NOT related to the cooling system. It was broken on mine too. I just put a new 90 degree t-fitting in to replace the old one. Thread a wood screw into the broken piece of the barb that is stuck inside the rubber hose, that should help you pull out the old pieces.

I could tell that mine had been broken for some itme as there was a lot of dirt around the area. It is now fixed, and honestly I don't notice a difference with how the car runs.

Thanks Jagman1.

I actually left the car in Porsche dealer workshop and they did the job. When I got my invoice I saw that I am charged for 6 liter of ATF fluid, I asked myself why this is not for 8 liter? Maybe they didn't fill it properly (fully)! On the other hand I tried to convince myself that they should know these stuff by heart and this should not be their first time.

Maybe I should get back to them and check if they really followed the procedure! So, could you finally fill it up with the 8 liter?

Yes I was able to get ~9 quarts in when I followed the above procedure correctly. It ended up taking around 9.5, but that was after I spilled about 1 qt on the floor. It was a messy job.

I recently did my ATF fluid and filter and had a similar experience. I could only get 6-7 quarts in. I then read the instructions more carefully and saw that the procedure to refill should be done with the transmission in neutral and the engine running.

To sum it up fill until it over flows with the engine off(you've already done this), then install the fill plug and shift through D, reverse and 2 repeadedly. Then shift into neutral open the fill plug and top it off from there. All the while the transmission temp needs to be >40 degrees C. I had durametric to read the temp, if you don't, >40C was achieved after about 10 minutes with the engine running and the transmission in D (remaining stopped in the garage the whole time).

It seems as if being in neutral was the key to success to get the last few quarts/liter into the tranmission.

If that is the source of your leak, it's not a big deal as far as oil leaks go; just an annoyance.

Thank you...

Its about time I become a contributing member.

There's a turbo pressure hose that's known to leak on the drivers side. It runs from the turbo to the intercooler or from the intercooler to the engine. I can't remember which. There's a TSB about it in the TSB section

I'm wondering how common this is. Second I've heard of in a week.

Do you drive on salty roads? Maybe that's a common thread?

I had that 5mph max, in other words flatbed, sorry, good luck

What was your auto-headlight issue? Mine are always on. I'm wondering if it's the same 'issue'.

Oop, just read your other thread... I'm following now.

My Auto lights are always on too. I also have Durametric and it reports no codes or issues. I think that my lights must be set to always on or DRL mode by PWIS. I am going to go to the dealer eventually and have it hooked to pwis. I'm just not looking forward to the price they charge to check that kind of stuff.

I dropped a card in between my driver's seat and the center storage - I moved the seat all the way up to retrieve the card and now the seat won't move! Any idea what this could be?

Thanks!

One of the electrical connectors likely came unplugged when it was all the way out. Sometimes back seat passengers can dislodge the wiring from the attaching points accidentally with their feet. Then you raise the seat and the wire gets tugged on and disconnects. flashlight look from front and back. don't be surprised to see a few empty connectors under the seat too. Trick is to find out which one is the one that came undone.

Do Cayennes really need winter tires?

Summer tires can render even the most capable 4x4 useless in cold temperatures, snow, and ice. I'd rather drive a 2wd honda civic with 4 snow tires than a Cayenne with summer tires. Trust me, I speak from experience. The toughest choice you'll face is if you live in a place where you don't get much snow. Whereas if you live in snow country, the choice is obvious.

I've had an '04 Cayenne S for a little over a year now. About once a week, immediately upon accelerating (from a stop or on the go), the car hesitates and almost loses power completely. After about a second, it kicks in. On three occasions, it has died. I have not been able to figure out any kind of pattern. It happens when it is hot and cold, going up hill and down, even forward and reverse. I've had it into the dealer where I bought it (CPO) several times, but the story is always the same ... "no faults show on the computer, and it drove fine for us." Any suggestions on how I might be able to pinpoint the problem before the CPO warranty expires?

Try this:

In a parking lot, or some other safe place try to accelerate with one foot on the brake (very lightly) and the other pushing on the gas. The engine will cut power as it thinks you're pushing both pedals at the same time.

Does that feel at all similar to what you've been experiencing?

If so, there was a software update that increased the duration that both pedals would need to be depressed before engine power was cut.

Maybe lost in translation, but the 'Mono' feature of the climate control is a great one to know. Push and hold the 'Auto' button(on the front Climate control) in for a few seconds and Mono will appear. This allows the driver's setting to be used throughout all 4 zones.

If you're trying to shut off just the rear, push the button on the front climate control that has the back seat shaded, it will then display what is set in the rear climate system for a few seconds. You can make changes to the rear during the few seconds that the rear only icon is displayed.

Apologies if this is not what you asked about.

What are you stumped about?? You need a battery.

Yeah, you just can't take out a battery from the loop and expect things to work right. With one dead it will screw things up too.

I'm having an issue where when I attempt to do hard braking, the pedal gets extremely firm. I've recently bleed the brakes (it was doing this before and after); and ran nearly 2L through the system.

I think the issue is with the Brake Booster, or possibly the vacuum assist pump (if there is one). Another test I've done is to pump the pedal when I'm stopped. When doing this I'm able to firm up the pedal after one or two presses right near the top of the stroke. Then slowly the "boost" will build back up and 'power assist' will be restored. Lastly, when doing this I can't hear any type of pump running which I've always been able to hear in other cars.

Any suggestions?

Can anyone point me in the direction of the vacuum pump? If I know where it is I can give it a check.

Thanks

'04 CTT

Duplicate post on 6speed and rennlist. Sorry. No hits on first try...

'04 Boosts to .7-.8 bar then decreases to .5-.6 bar as RPM's rise >3500 or so.