sprocket

My garage is having trouble locating fluids for the transmission and the transfer case (2011 Cayenne S). All they see is that it "has to be Porsche fluid" but it gives no specifications on it at all!!! The dealer wants $120/litre!!!! WTF!!! Does anybody have alternatives for these fluids or at least the specifications or part numbers so that my garage can cross-reference? There has to be something else out there.

Thanks in advance.

Hi folks,

So I have a 2011 Cayenne S.  I took it on a road trip in July and did over 6000kms pulling my 19ft travel trailer.  No issues pulling it at all, quite the opposite.  The pig performed like a champ!  Now I'm home and commuting back and forth to work and I start hearing a sporadic whining noise.  Sounds like gear/tranny/transfer case noise.  it comes and goes.  there is no grinding sounds or anything like that just a whining.  I'm wondering if she burned through some fluid during her hauling roadtrip?  Would low fluid levels cause whining?

Thanks in advance!

Roch. 

On 5/31/2018 at 10:14 AM, Tom M said:

I used these and had the local Discount Tire install them for $20. No programming required and they work fine.

 

http://www.tpms.com/Huf_IntelliSens_RDE011_Set_p/uvc0011set.htm

 

Thanks Tom M!!!!  I received  my sensors from tpms.com today.  Had them installed and they were working within a few minutes!!!  Huge thanks for this.

Roch

2 minutes ago, Tom M said:

Sorry. ALLDATAdiy.com. It's a subscription online manual and runs about $20 per year once you locate a discount code.

 

No programming needed in my case as I made sure I purchased the same physical part number. The used one I bought was actually off a Panamera but the actuator itself was the same mfg number. I did need to swap the cables as the Panamera uses different lengths. They may now have knock offs available on eBay, though when I bought mine all they had were replacements for the previous generation.

All great information!  Thanks so much.

Roch

9 hours ago, Tom M said:

I had an actuator that failed on the right rear door. At first it was intermittent and the door would sometime lock and others not. It would always lock with the door not physically closed but with the latch in the closed position. I finally gave up on it and bought a used replacement actuator as the iCarScan also said it was a bad actuator. Problem solved.

 

It's a DIY to do the replacement but I really relied on ALLDATAdiy to get it done as there's lot's of steps to replace the actuator and some are not obvious.

What is this "alldatadiy".  Is it just a step by step manual?  Was there any programming necessary?  Thanks.

Roch

On 5/28/2018 at 6:29 PM, sprocket said:

Interesting turn of events.  I read another thread where the same problem happened.  He unlocked and locked the door a couple of times with the emergency key in the door handle.  I tried the same and problem solved!  It locks fine now,  chirps twice and lights flash twice.  

 

The only thing that confuses me now is that Loren says the double chirp means a fault!  The I'll get the durametric on it and see what's up.

 

R.

Ok....so it happened again.  It stopped chirping.  Then I figured I would try all the doors when it's locked with no chirp.  Turns out that all the doors are locked except the rear passenger door on the drivers side.  When I pull on the handle and the door opens, the alarm sounds.  So I figure that something in the locking mechanism of that door is sticking or something.  I open and close that door a few times,  jiggle the handle, lock and unlock the child safety switch in the door...and voilà!  When I arm it then it chirps twice and all the doors are locked.  So it looks like I have it isolated.  Any ideas what could be faulty here?  Locking mechanism?  Sensor of some sort?

Thanks.

Roch

26 minutes ago, Loren said:

Why not use the ones Tom M recommended above. He already stated, "no programming needed".

Hi Loren,

I have just pulled the trigger on that order.  Let's hope they work otherwise this is an expensive "see if it works" exercise with the shipping, US/CAD exchange rate/ duty, etc.....

R.

1 hour ago, scanner-1 said:

Found this while out searching for something completely different. Not sure when Porsche Gen3 TPM started, but this exactly describes the system on my 2011 and 2013.

 

The 3rd generation TPM system operates on the principle of unidirectional communication between the
wheel electronics and control unit. This means that the wheel electronics can communicate with the
control unit, but the control unit cannot communicate with the wheel electronics.
The wheel electronics units send the currently measured tyre pressure, the direction of rotation, the
temperature of the air in the tyre and the remaining service life (of the battery) as well as a specific ID
from the wheel that is currently turning at specified intervals.
The wheel position is learned automatically from the side and axle specifications. The direction of
rotation of a wheel is detected by acceleration sensors in the wheel electronics (left/right detection). Axle
sensing (front axle/rear axle detection) is performed based on differentiated sound levels between the
front and rear axle, where the central antenna is fitted close to one axle (high level). The levels received
from the other axle are correspondingly low.

 

The wheel electronics units communicate with the control unit in various modes. Depending on the
current mode of a wheel electronics unit, it sends telegrams to the control unit at defined intervals.
Normal mode: Normal mode is active while the vehicle is driving (after Burst mode has ended).
Sleep mode: Sleep mode is activated as soon as the vehicle remains stationary for longer than 5
minutes. The wheel electronics then send no more telegrams. If the ignition is switched on while
the wheel electronics units are in Sleep mode, no tyre pressures are displayed (display in
instrument cluster: "-.-"). Tyre pressures are only displayed again when the vehicle is driving (see
Burst mode).
Burst mode: If the wheel electronics units are in Sleep mode and the vehicle is accelerated to
over 25 km/h (15 mph) from stationary, the wheel electronics units switch to Burst mode. The
wheel electronics units send their telegrams for 60 seconds at fast intervals.

 

If a new set of wheels is used or wheel electronics units were replaced, the TPM system must be taught.
When teaching the TPM system, the control unit stores the wheel IDs of the wheel electronics units and
assigns a position to them.
New wheel electronics units can be taught by selecting a new set of wheels in the instrument cluster.
The system is then in learning mode and re-assigns the wheel IDs that are received.
But the system also detects a wheel change if the stored information does not correspond to the
information received. The control unit then displays a message on the instrument cluster prompting you
to select the newly fitted set of wheels.

The wheel electronics units can be taught while the vehicle is driving and while it is stationary. Teaching
while driving is recommended.

The wheel IDs can also be taught without using the System Tester.
The following points must always be observed:
Allow an idle time of at least 5 minutes before teaching the wheel IDs (wheel electronics units are
then in Sleep mode).
Briefly accelerate the vehicle to over 25 km/h (15 mph) in order to teach the wheel IDs (wheel
electronics units are then in Burst mode).
Then continue driving at any speed (even < 25 km/h or 15 mph) for max. 10 minutes.
Teaching was successful if a pressure reading is displayed in the instrument cluster for all wheel
positions.

So is this saying that they don't need to be programmed?   AAAARGGGGG!!!!!  this is so frustrating!!!!  I just want sensors to work without having to be programmed by dealer.   There is NO DEALER on the Island.  I am not spending $2k to get my vehicle to a dealer on the mainland for TPMS sensors.  That's just foolish.  My garage said they called Porsche in Halifax and they said they need to be programmed!!   Why is it so hard to get an answer regarding TPMS???  Sorry for the rant.....just frustrated now.

R

3 minutes ago, Tom M said:

Indeed it was.

 

You can also use the search by vehicle to find what works and if there's any question you can give them a call to confirm.  I've got no affiliation with the site other than being a satisfied customer.

Thanks soooo much  Tom M.  

It's been a challenge finding the right answers from various sources but I'll take your answer as gospel if you have the same vehicle as mine.  Cheers!

R.

Tom M.  was this for a 2011 Cayenne S as well?

Update.... I removed the A pillar and found that the tubes were no longer connected!  I can only assume someone had use compressed air to blow out the clog from the top and instead blew the hoses apart.  I filled the bottom tube with water and noticed it wasn't draining.  So I blew out the bottom hose and it freed up and emptied through the wheel well.  So I believe the clog is gone.  I then rejoined the hoses with a bit of silicon to give it a bit of a seal.  Now she's back in the rain tonight so we'll find out in the morning if it was a succes!

We had torrential rain last night and now my floor is saturated with water.  Does anybody have a DYI instructional thread on how to remove the headliner?  I need to address this ASAP!!

Thanks.

Roch.

My 2011 Cayenne S has possible sunroof drain leaks.  I wanna remove the headliner and address the tubes.  Any instructions on taking down the headliner?  FYI,  I have cleaned out the drains in the wheel arches.  Also drained the water in the frame under the sills.  No more sloshing sound.

Thanks.

Roch

I assume that 2011 Cayenne turbo is the same as 2011 Cayenne S in this regard?

Roch

Interesting turn of events.  I read another thread where the same problem happened.  He unlocked and locked the door a couple of times with the emergency key in the door handle.  I tried the same and problem solved!  It locks fine now,  chirps twice and lights flash twice.  

The only thing that confuses me now is that Loren says the double chirp means a fault!  The I'll get the durametric on it and see what's up.

R.

Will a durametric work for that?

R

Ok, I have a head scratcher for you all.  My 2011 Cayenne S alarm is doing something weird and I think i accidently activated some setting without knowing it.    So here is what's going on:

When I used to lock my CS the lights would flash and it would chirp twice.  Today when I lock it, no lights flashing and no chirping!  then when I unlock it, the lights flash once, I open the door and the alarm goes off!!!  WTH!!!  Is it possible that I activated some feature?  I remember pressing the lock button multiple times on the fob in quick succession this morning when it looked like it wasn't locking (no flashing lights and no chirping).  Could that have done something?  Really annoying getting into a prestige vehicle and alarm is always sounding off.?

Thanks in advance.

Roch.

Scanner-1, did you have to do any reprogramming at all?  or was it just put 'em in and they worked?  The problem I'm faced with is that there is no Porsche dealer on the Island so I need ones that will just go in without having to be programmed by a dealer.

Thanks.

Roch

Hey Gang,  I have a new (to me) 2011 Cayenne S.  The rear wiper is not working.  Clearly the motor has power.  When I turn it on it make this humming or whiny sounds. Almost like small gears are stripping.  If I walk back to the wiper and touch it, it suddenly engages and sweeps once but then comes back and stalls with that sound again.  Any ideas?  Is there a spindle that strips or gears?  Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

Roch

Hey folks,  I just bought a 2011 Cayenne S to replace my 2006.  Wow what a difference!  Anyways, the TPMS has 2 dead sensors.  What replacements works?  I can't seem to get a straight answer... looking for cost effective option.  What have you actually bought and used that actually works?  Model names, numbers etc... are appreciated

Thanks.

Roch

Ok.  So I had the motor replaced with an OEM from Porsche after a used one didn't do the trick.  The also lubricated the linkage and all is good.  

Thanks Loren,  the boys looked at that.  It's all good.  Looks like another failed motor.  Gonna have to buy new....ouch...

Mechanism is completely free of obstructions.

So my wipers started to go slow.  Then the next morning they just died.   My mechanic orders a verified and tested used motor.  Same problem.  Wtf?  The only thing that I can think of is that we put in a new battery the week before .  Could that cause a problem?  I want to eliminate any electrical or computer issues before I pay for a new motor altogether.   Any one else come across this problem ?  She's a 2006 cayenne s model.   Thanks everyone. 

Roch

UPDATE...i had my alternator reconditioned.  The guy confirmed it was overcharging.  Put new regulator in and cleaned it up.  I reinstalled and fired her up.  All the lights are perfect now.  No pulsing.  Problem solved!  Thanks everybody.

Roch