rdragon

I've the same problem too with my 986 Boxster S Tiptronic RHD 2004! Tried most of the tips from this forum but still keys won't work! Central lock works if I depress the button on the dash. Remote LED blinks. Alarm goes off after a while from manually opened door( when key is not quickly inserted into the ignition). When door is unlocked manually, passenger side door is still locked. I need to close driver side door to unlock passenger door. Bought car from non-Porsche used car dealer 3 months ago No IPAS! Getting really frustrated now as this is my 1st ever Porsche & the remotes are not working! Any real success stories other than going to Porsche as they'll not entertain me as car was not bought from them!

Wow!! That is exactly what I have experienced!! I will try to go back and try the various reset / voodoo methods. This seems common among Boxster / 996 owners. Must be the keys...... But how do we rectify this? I recently purchased my car and amazing enough it had the alarm module replaced and reprogramed....and still I am having similar issues to others.

rlt

Sometimes the key button (little metal dome) on the circuit board just plain wears out. You can either buy a new key or an old key and just transfer your transponder pill to the new key (with the working circuit board). Be sure and get a new key with the same number of buttons.

i'm having the exact same problems (2002 S). so, once the key button wears down, that causes the alarm to go off when opening manually (and not inserting key into ignition right away)?

hi,

unfortunately my tire popped and it is time to replace so i'm thinking of getting the potenza re050's. i heard these were not porsche approved yet. if so, is it ok i still get them fitted for my '02 boxster S?

thanks.

my '02 S is a daily driver as well. it's been ok in the winters for me.

i dislike the maintenance costs, but is a blast to drive...

cool, i'll look forward to the mod update.

i agree, sucks having water coming in. are you aware if the passenger side and driver side is connected (below the seats)? if it enters through 1 side, does it stay there?

thanks.

frayadjacent986 - is it just your drivers side? let me know how your ziplock/bowl fix goes...

my passenger side gets quite wet (behind the seat). is this most likely due to the drain holes as well? if so (would it be the ones in back or up front)? if it's just the passenger side getting wet/damp, is there danger of it leaking over to the driver side where the control box for the alarm, central locking and immobilizer resides?

thanks...

i'd like to know if this is common as well.

i randomly have this problem. sometimes it'll close fine, other times it'll do what your first picture shows so i have to reopen 1/2 way, go out, tuck that piece in and close again...

sounds like similar problem to what i ran into recently. did any of the lights on cluster stay lit? mine started as battery problem, got it replaced, died, then found out alternator was dead and got that replaced as well...

it lasts years? should there be no condensation at all? i always seem to have some condensation on the trunk lid (is that normal)? cap is on tight. thanks.

that's what thought at first and asked again and looked at his screen (at both body shops). i can't imagine 1500/side. so that made me question if those xenon's were different than the litronics...

hi,

thanks for the clarifications. yeah, i thought litronics cost ~ $1500ish. why is it that the body shop sells the normal (non xenon) headlights for 800+/side and the xenon ones for $1500/side?

the dealer quoted litronics at around $2200, so i wasn't sure why the shops were charging $3000+ for a pair of xenons.

thanks.

hi,

i have an '02 boxster s that got hit while in the parking lot. bumper needs replacement and so does the right headlight assembly.

since only 1 headlight was damaged i'm contemplating on upgrading to the litronics but am a bit confused by the terminology.

when they refer to xenon lights - are they referring to the litronic ones?

if not, why do the xenon's cost significantly more (~1500/light)? are they different?

thanks.

yeah, that's about what i ended up paying yesterday (parts w/o labor). car is now working again...

boxs2000 - that's unfortunate ours went out so early, (mine at 39k) but in a way our similar situation (non daily driver) makes me feel somewhat more understanding. i was so disappointed at my car/porsche when even the dealer mentioned that they rarely see them go out this early. i hope it was a design flaw for that particular alternator and that this one lasts much longer...

pjslowik - i was not aware you can service/care for it. is there an an actual service that is recommended at X miles prior to it going out?

for those of you who changed the alternator or regulator replacement (which seems like more work) in ~4 hours or less (boxs2000, boxsterSS, etc...), how do you guys do it so fast? the dealer took 4 hrs to fix mine...you would think that they see same problems over and over and repeated exposure would make them faster/familiar. i'm asking this b/c i'd like to try it myself but i have no experience in fixing up cars...

i'll have to keep that in mind the next time i have alternator problems (hopefully i don't). i just gave the dealer the go ahead to start working on it.

what is the average life expectancy and what causes an alternator to go bad? is it purely end of life?

sounds like i have to have them do the work then. what is the average life expectancy and what causes an alternator to go bad?

i'll ask the dealer that. i would prefer not having to spend 1k+ on parts/labor for an alternator. does it typically die that soon? i have an '02 with less than 40k miles...

hi,

how much does an alternator typically cost and is the dealer the best place to buy from?

can we use one bought from the parts store or is this not recommended? looks like ~$600 difference between the 2 (for parts alone). does that sound about right? if so, why such a big difference?

hi,

looking for some input regarding my situation.

i was driving in downtown when all of a sudden my brake (not break wear) and airbag warning light went on. i continued driving for several more blocks and then my abs warning light came on. i drove several more blocks with those 3 lights on and decided to pull over and read the manual to make sure it was ok to continue driving.

i turned off the engine, read the manual and went back to start the car and nothing happened. i just replaced the battery 2 days ago. no noise or clicking.

the windows, all 3 buttons on key didn't respond either.

i called porsche road side assistance and got the car towed to the dealer. since they closed by the time my car arrived, they will be taking a look at it tomorrow, but wanted to run this by to see if anyone has any ideas as to what could have gone wrong.

glad it died after i pulled over and not while i was driving, but still concerned about the car...

thanks.

cool - i'll be looking forward to seeing them. do you just paint the black rubber bumperettes? is there a formal name to this piece?

it's different material for the MY2003+ vs the MY2002 and below right? the 2002 and below are some kind of rubber material right? whereas the 2003 and newer seem to be same material as the bumper?

joe_t - did you do it yourself? does dealer do this? can you post a pic?

hi,

is there a way for the 2002 and older models to get replacements for these blocks to make it look like 2003 and newer models (besides painting)? thanks

thanks for link. read that thread and the post loren references. i think the guy who installed my battery mentioned it was a sealed/maintenance free/non vented (not sure about correct terminology) battery, but is there a way to verify that (some kind of notation on the battery)? i wouldn't want to deal with the acid fumes/liquids that are bad for the car.

i also put in an incorrect group size (i think 41. they and surrounding shops didn't have the 91 in stock) and i didn't want to wait several days for one. they assured me it's ok (even though the fastening screw doesn't reach it to hold it down firmly). is this truly ok?

thanks. i'll use that TP method if i can't locate my radio code this weekend.

so i realized that after replacing my battery, that there was a clear tube (i think central vent hose) that the shop did not push back in to the battery (as it was with old one). is that ok? if not, where do i push it back into?

ok, i'll give your method a try. for those of you having similar problems, it discusses this issue on page 29 (both MY00 and MY03 manual), but it's a bit vague.

thank you. i'll let you know if i can't find it.

hi,

this is related to my coincidental gas/car not starting post in the diy section (i placed it incorrectly the first time around. moderator - feel free to remove that posting). i just got my battery replaced and was wondering if that affects the 1 touch down window operation? it goes down all the way only by holding onto it.

if it is due to battery replacement, is this related to radio code as well?

i'm hoping i have the radio code in my manual but i won't be back home until the end of the week. if there is a number i can try for a 2002 boxster s (cdr 220), i'd greatly appreciate that.

thanks.

if the battery is dead, would the battery warning light come on? are there cases where that light does not come on even though battery is dead?