Sloth

You would have done better to install the flywheel and clutch out of the 04 GT3RS street car. Its a single mass flywheel (~20lbs lighter than stock) and a spring centered clutch. I just did this upgrade on my 04GT3. The engagement is similar to stock and the engine revs much quicker. The cars really should have come from the factory that way.

Gert @ Carnewal.com has all you need.

Not sure about the benefits of the shiftlink alone as I installed the B&M SSK at the same time. Combined with the B&M, it has the same precision feel as a bolt action rifle. IMHO, the main benefit of the billet link is the replacement of the plastic connector that has left a few others stranded on the roadside.

Hey guys... there was only one set screw on my shift link. Wish I had a camera when I did my install.

CEL= Cash Evaporation Light :lol:

Thanks for the advice Jeff. Thats probably a good way to do it... especialy considering that the bridge tool will not fit with the B&M. Now to find the bridge tool... is there a part #?

I decided to bite the bullet and do some upgrades. Among those are a B&M shortshifter, Evo Shiftlink, CF shifter, CF handbrake, and CF scuff plates/door sills. I have found a DIY for the B&M and the shiftknob should not be a problem.

Does anybody know of a DIY for the Shiftlink and for swapping out the handbrake and door sills?

TIA

:drive:

Thanks Loren.

Does anybody have any information about a TSB concerning the torque values for the bolts that attach the swaybars to the chassis? Apparantly it is done to prevent a clunking sound from the suspension and seems to occur after track days.

:drive:

TIA

Any updates on this? I heard something about revised torque values for swaybars.

Thanks

What would be involved in swapping from the PCCB rotors to the standard steel rotors on a GT3. I understand that the steel rear rotors are 20mm smaller than the ceramics. Can the same calipers be used or would I have to swap them for the proper steel rotor calipers?

TIA

Gert, thanks for the info. I would have thought them to be a bit lighter.

Does anybody know the weights of the new GT3 wheels?

raffi,

It could be another oil leak. There are TSBs for the early cars that include leaking valve covers, intermediate shaft seal, pulley seal, and oil return tubes on very early (1998 build) cars. A good dealer should be able to fix all of these at the same time and even cover some under warranty TSB work.

You are scaring me Loren... no leaks at all on my 2/98 build... knock on wood! :eek:

Point aside... I like the six point belts at the track, but they would be a real PITA to use for regular driving. I hope that someone has the answer on the legality issue, I too am curious now.

I thought that anything more than an OEM type 3 point belt was illegal for road use. On another note... if you are fully belted in with a 6 point belt, I would think the front airbag is of little use b/c the harness is going to keep you firmly in the seat. I guess that the airbag would then become a debris shield of sorts?

I too was looking for factory carpet for my sub box. I have a Savanna Beige interior and was having a hard time finding anything that matched closely. I contacted Car Audio Innovations in California. They hooked me up with their source for factory carpets, perhaps they will help you too. Good luck.

:lightbulb:

It looks like a simple install, but is there anything I need to know ahead of time. Do I need to purchase mounting hardware or can I use existing hardware. :wrench:

Porsche part # 996 107 981 00

Mystery solved then...

Thanks :thumbup:

The code is actualy shown as L3AZ... is the L significant?

The paint code on my early 99 996 is 3AZ. I have seen it also listed as 3AY. Does anybody know the difference between the two codes?

TIA

3AY/E1

3AZ/E1

I am here too...

Best of luck on the new forum.

:wrench: :notworthy: