Trey T

Need to fix mine. It's making clicking and hesitation when it goes up and down.

Your local public library may have access to AllData. If no manual, I would go to the latch and test it. Take the latch out is quite simple.

If you have cooling issue, things to check before the HG:

1. both fans come on. one fan work will result the needle being on the right side of the zero of "180". Fan comes on around 210degF

2. antifreeze at level

3. condensation around the cap area; there should be none. Check cap.

If all of those not passed:

1. check if system can hold pressure. if leak, fix it. Go to HF and get the coolant pressure test kit.

2. if holds pressure and no leak, check the water pump and thermostat. It may need replacement.

1.) radiator cleaned still overheating, changing cylinder gasket this week
...

Thanks

Is there a third version to the AOS?

Good stuff!!

I'm about to find a local non-dealer shop that is familiar with these porsche but I need to get an idea on the required effort.

I'm thinking 6 hours @ $120/hr + parts/fee/tax. Is that reasonable?

If not, what is your suggestion?

Thanks for the tip man. That was very helpful. Do you know if the people install the RMS without the special seal pressing tool? Is there an article somewhere?

I don't think I find the time to do any major work on cars but it's good to understand the process. I will have to find a local shop to do the RMS and the IMS bearing.

If I continue to own and work on my own porsche, I think I'll have to invest in a lift.

I'm not sure I understand but please explain more. How much access space is there b/t the engine and the tranny?

Once you mate the tranny housing and engine together, you can't spin the flexplate and/or TC to the access area or something?

They asked ~50-75bucks for the RMS. The special tool fees wasn't significant, something like 20-30bucks.

These days, I'm trying to find time to attack project. A yr ago, I took mine to a local dealer and was quoted $2700 for RMS replacement that was basically costs:

-17 hours @ $145/hr

-the rest was special tool fee/tax and the RMS.

For me to do this, I would have to find the time and spend a few hundred bucks on the RMS and the installation tool. When I found out that the rear of the crankshaft doesn't have a backing for RMS to sit like other flat engine, I was pretty pissed off!

Here's the question for you all, what is the effort (in hours) for this job? is it really a two day job?

Might want to pay them an hr or two of effort to visual see the engine run and maybe put a stethoscope to get a better idea of the trouble area.

If it's making a weird sound, then there's something wrong!

I have replaced my AOS couple of years ago but it looks like the original. It had about 45K miles before it let oil blew by.

So what's up with the "new version" AOS? does it look different?

Sorry to bring the thread back from the dead but what's the two bolts that's sticking out from the TC?

Are those pins even necessary for intalling/mating? I mean, there's nothing special about these auto tranny compare to others, right?

to me, there's just too much potential of the oil splash upward. I wonder how the Subaru guys does it.

Sounds fishy. You sure your shop changed it out?

An alarm system or security system does more than protect your car, it can control various of things. I was a mobile security/ remote start installer during my years in high school and college. I was doing it professionally and never had a failed vehicle. Ask me anything.

Get an HID kit, OEM is preferred.

-Pair of Matsu****a or Denso D2S Ballasts

-Pair of D2S bulbs

-D2S-to-H7 Adapter

-Wiring harness for higher capacity

Can easily get it for ~$250

You can also get generic HID kit for under 100bucks. These things are everywhere and dime-a-dozen.

What you need is an alarm system.

-lock/unlock via ignition

-window up/down control

That's what I would do because it's cheaper and more reliable w/ any DEI system. Very simple to install.

What it cost me recently to service 01 Boxster

-15w50 Mobile 1 $50

-WIX filter $20

-NGK BKR6EK plugs $40

The tasks are pretty simple. Got parts from Oreilly's Auto

Try PB blaster or any other equivalent penetrating oil and let it sit couple of times over several days then try it again w/ vise grip.

you do not need to drain oil. you can take off your manifold, runners, and throttle body to clean if you want but I didn't have the patience and time. I just let it idle for ~30min and rove around a bit b4 I put it back on the road.

get a generic hose clamp to attach the tube to the engine-side when you replace your AOS. i'm 5'11" and I got scraped and bruise trying to use OEM clamp and was unsuccessful.

For me, it did gave sign but I ignored it thinking the mild smoke was seepage through the cylinders. On that same day, made several stop and go, massive plume of white smoke on freeway and had to pull over and gotten it towed home.

I would check the tube that goes to the intake to see if there are significant amt of oil. I believe, generally, it should be dry w/ minimal-to-none of oil residue but don't quote me on it.

01 based model w/ ~41K miles.

Gotten the NGK installed and couple of the tube seals needed o-ring replacement but I don't have them.

I did not gap the plugs and it is running fine so far. There was plenty of space to change out the plugs.

2001 boxster tip w/ ~42K miles.

So that's what it is bc I thot the speakers are broken.

Here is the NGK BKR6EK spark plugs but I don't think you can gap it properly w/ the standard gapping tool. I suppose to leave it alone and install it?

Thanks. I am gathering information just in case. I am not certain that the cam cover is leaking but the last time it was the porsche dealer, they say to service it along w/ the RMS.

I checked my local auto parts store for spark plugs and they only have the NGK BKR6EK. On their website, it says to gap it to 0.032". Does it need to be gap? I have never use these type of spark plugs w/ two ground tips.