johonole

Guess not.

Thanks Loren- I haven't seen foam or noticed restricted air flow so it must be a solenoid. Has anyone DIY'ed a solenoid replacement?

Thanks Loren- I searched your recomendations here, r-list, 6sp, & google & could not find anything that pertained to my car. I took it to Brumos, but of course it would not do it for them. I also went through my cd shop manual and didn't find a solution in it.

AC Air dams or doors thump alot at start up & then quiet down. Sound a little like bongo drums in the dash.

Any clues from anyone would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks- John

PS- I did search ac & air conditioner noises and couldn't find anything.

I recently noticed a thump noise at start up in the dash area of my 2003 996. It is always when the ac is on and sounds like it could be air dams switching.

The car didn't make the noise before a couple months ago. Has anyone else had this occur and know if it is a problem that needs fixing or common? AC works fine.

Thanks- John

Thanks to all the advice listed above I was able to fix my visor/mirror cover. Appreciate all the input!

Thanks,

John

Thanks Loren. I feel stupid each time this happens. I searched this 3 different ways before posting,

Thanks- John

Anyone have any tips on how to remove or install the cover to the mirror on the visor? Mine broke and fell in my lap when I opened it recently.

The plastic hinge on one side cracked. I Crazy glued it and tried to reinstall it, but the hinged cracked off again- different spot, so it is not the crazy glues' fault.

Any tips on installing this thing, or does any one sell replacements?

Thanks- John

Thank you very much Loren. I did search 2 other sites and go through the workshop manual before I tried here. I should have known you would know. Did that info come from the workshop manual?

Thanks- John

Does anyone know how to remove the gas flap or door from the car? I need to take it for a color match. I played with it for about an hour today but could not get it off the car.

I went through the workshop man. and could not find anything on it.

Thanks

Waliboy- would you mind telling us where you found the micro switches?

Hi Loren,

where would I find this article? I've googled site:renntech.org +"excellence magazine" but I can't find it and sadly, we don't appear to get Excellence Magazine in the UK.

W

You can order back issues online at: http://www.excellence-mag.com/back-issues

Has anyone tried the Excellence Mag. repair of replacing the micro switches that fixed the remote other than the author?

Was the E-6 fuse- good new year so far!

My 2003 C2 is spitting gas out the fuel fill nozzel when I try to fill it up. Yesterday I tried just trickeling in the gas after getting sprayed with gas at a normal fill up rate. At the trickel rate, it would suddenly gush back at me. It took me 20 minutes to get 2.5 gallons, much of that went on the ground.

When I stopped for gas I had 1/8+ of a tank. After the above mentioned episode it regestered under 1/4 of a tank so I don't think it is a gas guage problem and the fuel burned at the normal rate with the guage operating normally.

Today I went to a different station and the same thing happened. Anyone have a guess where I should start with this problem?

This issue has been linked to a defective Evap Canister, a fuse, and/or dislodged or twisted up fuel lines to and from the fill orifice or inside the fuel tank.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks JFP and Maurice, I have done a search based on what you wrote and see that I am not alone- Thanks.

My 2003 C2 is spitting gas out the fuel fill nozzel when I try to fill it up. Yesterday I tried just trickeling in the gas after getting sprayed with gas at a normal fill up rate. At the trickel rate, it would suddenly gush back at me. It took me 20 minutes to get 2.5 gallons, much of that went on the ground.

When I stopped for gas I had 1/8+ of a tank. After the above mentioned episode it regestered under 1/4 of a tank so I don't think it is a gas guage problem and the fuel burned at the normal rate with the guage operating normally.

Today I went to a different station and the same thing happened. Anyone have a guess where I should start with this problem?

Sanjeev- thanks for the reply. I pulled out the CDR 23 radio and installed a Pioneer double din. Had to move AC and remove CD drawer. I spliced the speaker outputs on the Pioneer to the speaker wires on the original amp in the trunk. It works and sounds good. I left power to the original amp in the trunk, but have no audio input to it. I am now wondering if this will cause a problem with the system in time.

The reason I left the power to the original amp was I used the headlight switched wire from the yellow plug (that pluged into the CDR 23 radio and then ran to the original amp) to feed the new Pioneer headlight switch hook up. Not sure the original amp needs power for this headlight switch wire to work, but not sure it doesn't.

Your original PDF install post said you used the wiring diagram for the Bose/most system that was located on this forum for your install.

I searched this forum, and could not find the diagram.

Can you tell me where to find it? I think it may help me clear up some of questions.

Good info- I am in the process of installing a dbl din in my 2003 most- Bose. I would love to find the wiring diagram you spoke of in your post, but can't find it.

Any clues?

What was squeaking on your car?

Simon- you are just a little too late with that advice. When I readjusted the top again this a.m. I saw the line you are speaking of. I have figured out a way to adjust the top without totaly removing it. I used a foam pool float rolled in a towel to prop up the back edge of the top once I had unlatched the top. Was much easier to just get in the back seat and adjust the fit, latch it, and then test everything with out having to take it off and put it back on. The wife & neighbors are happier about it too.

Yes you where right on that one. I guess it is big gap & windows that stay shut or better looking fit and a driver's window that rolls down half way when you shut the door.

I am now looking for a lift so I can hang the hard top from the garage ceiling. I have a feeling it will live up there most of the time.

Loren- do you mean one beep from the horn? Mine has done that since I got it. Well I guess I will put that on the list, but right now it is low on the list.

I will let you know on the key when I get back to it. Looks like I am back on the hard top for now. When I used the car today the driver's window would open half way after I would shut the door. I guess I adjusted the top too tight but it sure looks good that way.

I adjusted it down in the back 3mm and it looks better and is as snug as I would want it. Being on a roll, I tried the key remote and still dead.

I guess it is time to buy a new key. Not exactly what I wanted to spend several hundred dollars on for the car next but...

I bought a hard top for my 2003 cab and now the remote will not work. Is this a coincidence, or is the top blocking my signal some how? As soon as the top was installed, the remote quit working. I went to a Autozone to get a new battery and they tested my key and battery & said it was fine. I have been reading the TSB on the 996 DIY on remote extended range and wondering if this would fix my problem. Anyone else experience this and have advice?

Thanks- John

Did you buy mounting hardware for your hardtop, and if not, were they already present? My friend recently purchased a hardtop for his '03 C4S cab and the hardware wasn't installed. It's the bits that are installed under the fabric fascia behind the rear seats and used to secure the spinlocks at the rear. Absent those two parts, your hardtop definitely wouldn't seat well.

If your top isn't properly seated it could lead to problems with locking the car, a "beep" for an alarm fault related to the front latch, for example. I don't know if it would make your key stop working entirely though. If you remove the hardtop, does the key work again? If you use the key blade in the door to unlock the car, does the remote work after that? Does the alarm LED at the front of the dashboard pulse fast when you press a key on your fob? Does the test light on your key light up when you press a button?

Mark

The hardware is there. I took the hard top off and the remote still didn't work. I have tried alot of fixes that I read from searches here and Rennlist; push remote button while locking door with blade, flip battery, touch blade to chin?, new battery. The light on the remote works but the remote no longer seems to communicate with the car. The alarm does activate if I lock the car with the blade key.

Thanks for the reply, I will play around with adjusting it. The Passenger rear window does not go up with hard top on unless you push rubber window seal out of the way of the glass so maybe that has something to do with it.

The top also appears to have too much of a gap at the back- looks funny. Maybe I can adjust that down too.