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ukchris

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Posts posted by ukchris

  1. 14 hours ago, Richard Hamilton said:

    ...I'm intrigued by the vehicle in the background......

     

    Oh that, that would be my 7 🙂

     

    It's good to be back for sure, kind of bemused that my *issues* always seem to be a little too unique! From what I have gathered I have to remove the front rail from the inside of the top to get the top seal off, the other one is more involved, no instructions to be found but it looks like to replace it you have to buy the full three piece assembly. I think the main issue is it being loose so I might just tape it in for now and see how things go.

     

    IMG_3102_Original.jpg

  2. Steps 3 & 4 here look to confirm the removal process for the top piece, seems there is a screw that holds the front of it and the rest is attached with double sided tape 

    WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM

    Yikes! Replacing your convertible top is one of the most difficult tasks around, and is not for the faint of heart. Jared and Wayne teamed up to provide detailed instructions for the Boxster show how to upgrade to the newer style glass window roofs.

     

    Not so sure yet on the other piece, that doesn't seem to be a featured part in the hood replacement process from what I'm reading so far including videos on YouTube.

     

     

  3. 13 hours ago, deilenberger said:

    It appears the seal is held in place by a T shaped section that fits into a groove in the top frame. Can the seal be worked back in place?  I'm sure replacements can be purchased.. it appears that your seals have experienced some significant wear.

     

    My best guess (from before I owned the car) is that it came loose and was never put back, resulting in the wear as the pieces rub against each other. To some degree it does slot into a groove but not tightly enough to stay there, my suspicion is that either the part that slots in is work or there was some adhesive used (tape or glue) to secure it. It looks and feels as if a good tug would pull it out, I'm just hesitant to do so if I can get some opinion first 🙂

  4. Good morning, I have a 2011 Boxster and the esal above the drivers window is work, curious as to whether anyone has any insights on how easy it would be to get and replace these pieces? I feel sure enough people have worked on the roof to know, particularly how much disassembly would be necessary to replace these pieces. Pictures attached to illustrate the issue, it's the rubbery/foamy pieces that meet as the roof comes up.

     

    Any help would be much appreciated.

     

    Chris. 

     

     

    IMG-4083_854x480.jpg

    IMG-4085_854x480.jpg

    IMG-4086_854x480.jpg

  5. Nice work. That is impressive. How long does it take you to mod the mirror?

    It is hard to say, the fastest has been overnight where I received a mirror priority and shipped it out the same day, the longest up to 4-5 weeks. The things that impact it are getting hold of the mirror (whether yours or an alternate, some steps that need to be outsourced and need scheduling and of course my time (I make these in my "spare" time.

    For a fairly common mirror like the Porsche ones I usually recommend buying a mirror to modify, they are only $70-80 new so I can order one, modify it and ship it without you having to be without the one in your car, the cost can also be minimized somewhat as I can take your old mirror in exchange as it will come in for the next person along. If I have to order one (I ordered a 996 mirror yesterday) it typically takes 5-10 days to get here depending on whether the dealer has it in stock or has to order it in.

    So, in short... it varies. Once I know what you want and which mirror I can usually give you a pretty firm estimate. The nice thing about both the V1 and Escort installs is that the system can be installed and fully operational then the mirror added later if necessary.

    I tried a group buy a while ago but it didn't gain any momentum, if we can get a few people together then I can discount things as I save by doing them in lots rather than one offs.

    Chris.

  6. Having the main unit concealed is a great feature, especially if one gets interviewed often by Johnny-Law.

    I use an Escort 8500 in my cars and I've noticed that when the unit is installed in the Cayenne, the sensitivity drops off. In both cars, I mount the detector on the front windshield, just above the dashboard.

    On a side-note, I use a toll transponder for toll roads/bridge tolls. Inspecting the front windshield, I noticed that there is a factory film installed, and it has a gap (no film installed) along the rear view mirror location. If I place the transponder there, it works. The Homelink signal may be broadcasted at this location as well. Additionally, the transponder works in the Cayenne when the unit is placed (momentarily by hand) along the sun-roof glass.

    The point I'm trying to make is that the factory film (tint) reduces (attenuates) the signal of the radar detectors. To have the greatest radar detector range/sensitivity, it is best to have the detector's receiving unit outside of the vehicle's interior.

    My other car has ceramic-based film instead of metal-based film (yes, I installed film on the front windshield). I have no issues with signal attenuation with the ceramic-based film.

    Do you have the Escort 9500ix? I am getting a lot of requests for integration with the 9500ci now which is a very neat (if expensive) unit that installs as you say, radar detector in the front bumper area and laser shifters front and back. With the display in the mirror it makes for a very neat install. I find the combinations interesting, I am currently working a Lamborghini mirror that will have the V1 and Blinder displays in it, an Audi one that will have 9500ci and Laser Park Pro as well as an Escort 9500ci install in a GTR.

    The YouTube clip below provides a preview of the next offering I am working on where the display is 100% invisible when off.

    Chris.

  7. Chris, where would you mount the V1 itself - is it possible to conceal it?

    It depends on the car, in a Boxster it can be attached to the rear wind shield, a 996/997 a bracket on the headliner or rear window, just about any car it can be elevated from the back shelf... I made acrylic brackets for a while but couldn't get access to enough cars to make all varieties.

    A good starting point is to reverse the suction cup mount and see how it looks at the very top of the back window.

  8. Unfortunately I have tried taking the iPod apart and now it doesn't work. Plus I would need to get a really long ribbon cable that matched the pin layout. On the mirror you have where do the electronics go? Does it make the mirror thicker?

    I've never taken an iPod apart but I have done so with an iPhone, the inner workings are so small and delicate I don't think I'd ever try it again. As you probably found out that don't containg "cables" but super thin ribbon connecters with hirosh connectors and the like, very difficult to modify without proper tools. I suppose that depending on the mirror a complete iPod nano could be placed inside with the display then in landscape orientation, could it then be controlled from some sort of remote maybe if that is what you're looking for? There are headphones with controls on them and so on, I think it'd be a lot of work though and I'd question if the mirror is the best place for the iPod to be located but that's all personal taste.

  9. Unfortunately I have tried taking the iPod apart and now it doesn't work. Plus I would need to get a really long ribbon cable that matched the pin layout. On the mirror you have where do the electronics go? Does it make the mirror thicker?

    The mirror contains the concealed display, not the whole V1, it does not make it any thicker, the mirror is the same with the addition of a jack plug onthe back to connect to the V1 and the mute/mode button also on the back.

    The guy I made this for hasn't responded to emails for a month so I am considering it available if anyone is interested, if he resurfaces I can always make him another one.

    Chris.

  10. How did you do that? Can other displays be done the same way? iPod?

    The mirror has been etched from behind to allow the display to show through the glass. I suppose that in theory I could do this with an iPod but I doubt it lends itself to being disassembled and reassembled easily. Have you tried taking an iPod apart?

    Obviously the V1 Concealed Display is the main item I have worked with, I'll soon be testing the Escort 9500 display for someone else all being well.

    Chris.

  11. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going with the Porsche bar, I thought of a hack myself first but decided it was not worth the hassle and risking the life of my boy was not worth trying a DIY mod with.

    I got a nearly new deactivation bar off ebay for 1/2 the RRP, but I guess I'll lose that saving now with the 2 minute computer update :(

    Call a few dealers, tell them you bought the bar and you understand that because it is a safety item that installation is supposed to be free. If it is indeed free I would think it's an arrangement with Porsche where they pay the dealer so they should be happy to help, if not ask for a price. If it seems ridiculous then look for an independant mechanic or another member with a PST2.

  12. It should be noted that to use this for air bag deactivation (with a child seat) the feature must be enabled in the car computer using a PST2 dealer computer. Without doing so the switch will generate an error and the air bag light will be illuminated.

    what should one expect to pay for such as service - from OPC or a specialist? thanks

    It really depends on your dealer, although a quick update with the computer usually takes only a couple of minutes many dealers like to charge you for an hour so it can get costly. If you're installing the actual Porsche bar I think therer is a policy (in some places at least) that they will activate it for free but they may insist you buy the hardware from them. At the end of the day you'll have to ask, you might be lucky and find a local member that has access to the appropriate hardware too.

    Are you installing the Porsche bar ir planning on making your own?

    Chris.

  13. Does anyone have instructions on how to hard wire a V-1 radar detector in a 2003 911 Turbo? I want to mount the detector on the upper portion of the winsheild and would like to run the wire along the top (between headliner and windshield). I assume the wire would run down the A pilar, under the dsah to a power source.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Keith

    keith.paris@comcast.net B)

    Keith,

    Come on down and I will do it for you. Hey while your here you can help me with the door handles.... :cheers:

    Gary

    Sorry to resurrect this ancient topic, but I just found myself trying to do the exact same thing - wiring in a V1 to a 2003 996TT. The pics in the original thread (on the other forum) seem to be gone - would anyone happen to have the info?

    Thanks.

    Assuming the 996 is like the Boxster (which is is in so many ways) there are screws under the sun visor behind little flaps and one behind the lens for the alarm sensor in the middle. With these out the upper trim will hand free and allow you to pull the A-pillar trim off too. From there you should be able to thread the wire down behind the dash and go to the fuse box or the phone adaptor cable behind the console.

  14. I'm getting some of the other design ones made up now so it's probably best to wait until I can send you some pictures, no need to rush if your car is coming in the spring. We also need to confirm that the configuration of the 987 is the same as my 986.

    For visibility yes, it is very clear front and back also, with the hood up, you can hardly see it. If you want total stealth I pop my Red Sox cap on top of the V1 when I park!

    I'll try to remewber to post pictures of the others, if you don't see them feel welcome to PM me!

    Chris.

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