mbodo

Steer clear of the pressure washer you will undoubtedly do more harm than good , posibly ruining the inner lining as well as the outer. Have Renovo been able to offer any advice on the best removal process for their product. Surely they must know what dissolves it ?

agreed! very good advice - never use high pressure water on the car for fear of damaging the top. I believe this is also in the manual, and a good dealer will advise you the same.

I may have read it here or perhaps on another forum, but a relatively safe way to clean the top is with a shopvac.

Hose down the top, use the porsche top cleaner (available from the dealer or online), use a soft bristle brush to do a light scrubbing, and then use a wet/dry vacuum to suck up the water/debris.

Obviously you don't want to use an attachment that will result in making a vacuum lock on your top, so use some common sense.

If you haven't tried this yet, perhaps it would be worth a shot. I mean, it can't get much worse right?

Hi Maurice -

Wow .. so it will take less time to get it done at the dealer :D

Agreed, not sure how the two could be related, but as that was the only logical item I could deduce that would have any impact on the top itself, it was my best guess. I'd just rather not think that the air gap could have been caused while the car was sitting in the air for an extended period of time, getting a new transmission.

Regardless, thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

I am planning on taking off my engine cover to paint the intake manifolds but have a few questions.

what was the engine cover designed to do?

It was designed to cover the engine.

:D

Actually based on where its at, my guess is that it not only provides sound insulation, but also acts as a part of the firewall.

Just a guess, but if I were doing some sort of clear engine cover, I'd use something heavy-duty like Lexan.

Hmm,

would be interesting to see how it does this , the OEM mirror relies on a potentiometer to relay info of the mirror's previous position. Without this feedback , I cannot see how the smart top can position back to where it was previously. It can only be a wild guess , based on a random pulse of power driving the mirror back up.

could be something as simple as reversing the polarities on each axis for the exact same period of time, who knows.

I'd have to believe that, all things being equal, if you drove the X motor down for 1 second, and the Y motor left for 1 second, driving the X motor up and the Y motor right would yield similar (yet less accurate) results. Just a wild stab in the dark.

Or, as we used to say "These things work off of FM" ... "FM, really?" .. "Yeah, F%&!king Magic".

Unfortunately here in California it is required that the %^$*!! fastpass be displayed "in plain sight" .. I guess CHiPs can pull you over if they don't see it in the windshield.

You first have to determine the cause of the wind noise. It seems odd that replacing the headliner would have any effect on the seal between the window and its rubber gasket at the top.

Also, what was the problem with the first two headliners (the original and the first replacement)?

Is the noise coming from the top of the window, or the rear vertical surface where it contacts the rubber gasket?

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

You are right, it is very odd (and not really worth the trip back to the dealer at this point). The noise is coming from the top of the window about 2/3 of the way back. Based off of everything the car was in the shop for, this is the only "logical" thing I could deduce is a culprit.

The headliner was replaced (this time) for "bunching" on the passengers side towards the rear of the cockpit. The first time it was replaced due to stitching failure in the center between the driver/passenger seats.

So I've had my headliner replaced on my 987S twice.

This time, after getting it back from the shop, I have some pretty bad wind noise coming from the driver's window.

It is kind of a PITA to bring the car back to the dealer to get this tweaked. Are there any "self-help" fixes that could be applied?

TIA

I know Porsche came out with an Ipod adapter ($1,100) but I am looking more to something simple like an Aux. port. I do not need an interface controlling the phone.

Outside of the Porsche iPod option (which i didn't know about until now) it seems like your options are:

FM Modulator

NavTV

Dension icelink

I don' tknow if you can use the iPhone as a PHONE when connected to the dension/navtv, but I do know that the dension has a bluetooth module that you can connect a bluetooth phone to (seems rather redundant if you're directly connected to the iPhone but what do you expect..)

The PCM and the navigation drive must be matched , also the PCM's are available in two formats, those with or without BOSE and those for 2wd and those for 4WD cars. Fitting a USED PCM will require your local Porsche agent to obtain a KEYPASS code based on your chassis number to unlock the PCM. Unless you can prove provenance (ie its not stolen) I doubt the main agent will even consider helping. Though the PCM is a direct swap physically for the standard radio, (even the plugs on the rear swap straight over) it needs to be coded to your car with the workshop tool to set it up correctly and get it to start working.

berty987,

the keypass is a thing of the past. it is no longer a requirement for the PCM2.1, which I'm assuming is being discussed.

I seem to have the same problem ... its rather annoying at night when I can't seem to find things in the front trunk.

I've also noticed my front foglight indicator no longer glows green when activated (inside the cockpit on the headlight switch). The rear foglight indicator still glows amber when activated. Strange.

No idea if the compound is in the windshield, but I rarely have problems with my fastrak. even when the transponder doesn't emit the 'beep beep' ... they still snap a photo of your plate and charge your account just the same with no penalty.

one more...

<_< ...

short of the techart kit, I've got the same car (color, wheels, etc). Either the angles of the photo or the camera phone don't seem to do the results any justice.

waiting to see pics - sounds like my car w/ the 19" carerra S wheels. going for predomenantly looks myself, but can't go wrong w/ H&R.

just replaced the rears with the PS2s... maybe I'll swtich over to the Conti's when its time to replace the fronts. I dunno, I like matching shoes.

My set-up is the 19" CS optional wheels, not sure if I mentioned that earlier.

In a way they are correct, but in the same way they are wrong. The only system they sell that supports MP3 is the full PCM kit. Again, only MY05 onwards plays MP3's too.

The caveat is you have to have a PCM unit made after some time in March/April/May of 2005 (forget which one..) the TSBs online here have more information.

Somehow seatbelts are hazard material, so shipping is expensive.

?? What the ... how does this work??

Hi All -

Sorry if this question has been beaten to death in recent times .. I wanted to check the waters as of today to see if opinions may have swayed one way or another.

Its getting to be time for some new tires; I have about 14,000 miles on the set.

On Tirerack I noticed that there were two OEM manufacturer's listed for the 19" tire size (235/35/19 Front, 265/35/19 Rear): Continental and Michelin.

I've used the OEM M3 Conti's on another application a few years ago and have had reasonable results with them on the sedan; but comparing it to the Porsche would be an apples to oranges comparison. Knowing that many of you are probably at LEAST on your second set of tires, which route have you gone?

One interesting point - I've noticed that the Michelin's are about $100 per tire more expensive than the Continentals. Considering they are both listed as "OEM" I would only imagine that this may have been a cost-cutting measure that was done by the factory (can anyone verify if 2006-07s come with Contis as opposed to Michelins?)

Thanks in advance, and don't forget to vote in the poll :thumbup:

PCM2.1 with BOSE.

I'm going to put in an Ipod adaptor this weekend.

Congrats on the new car. Triple-blue must look sweet ..

Where are you getting your iPod adapter? I know there was a group buy floating around on some of the boards (including this one) for a Dension made one but the promise date seems to keep slipping ...

http://www.homelink.com/home/faq.tml

google is your friend.

maybe try the 986 board?

Call Homelink; they can give you model specific directions. The instructions in owner's manuals are often misleading, particularly concerning where the opener must be held during programing

Thanks.

Actually, I can get it programmed, after multiple tries, but it doesn't seem to "stick." In other words, it will work for a few days, then will stop working. Currently it's working, but I don't know for how long. The dealer says he can't help because he has to be in front of the door.

.. invite the dealer over to your house .. this should be a no-brainer for the dealer, your homelink appears to be defective. I don't think it is an issue with power to the unit, as I've had my battery disconnected a few times and I've yet to lose a homelink button (or even a preprogrammed radio station for that matter).

The homelink people are a crap shoot. They are all generalists and reading from a script, and offer the same help as your owners manual does, in other words, they aren't much help in getting it fixed.

One thing it might be is your garage door opener could use rolling codes. Read the section specific to rolling codes and reprogramming your OPENER to accept the new homelink device. I had to do this recently when I moved.

OK, guys, thanks for all of your assistance with the PCM/Navi questions! I'm assembling all of the parts and the next step will be for my dealer to do the install of the PCM/Navi system. Any idea on what kind of labor costs I'm probably looking at?

Also, what is the latest Navi CD I need? Is it included with part number 000-044-900-89?

Thanks!

Rob

Cost me about $1000 in labor to install navigation. This was to install: PCM2.1, GPS Antenna, and DVD-ROM.

Confused about your question regarding Navi CD .. you should be using a Nav DVD. Are you dealing with PCM2 or PCM2.1?

For PCM2.1 you will have to find out what version of software you are running on the PCM itself (no Mod, Mod A "Late Mod A" and Mod B ). This will determine which DVD you need to buy, best I can tell.

One of the things that just came to mind as I was perusing the PCM manual online here - if you get a foreign (non USDM) head unit, the MHz and kHz spacing may be incorrect, not to mention, the beginning and ends of the bands may be incorrect.

You may want to compare the frequency spacing between USDM and European market radios by browsing through Porsche's online manual repository. I don't have the link off hand, but maybe someone will be nice and post it.

IIRC, the PCM2.1 system I have now "had" this problem - it was a USDM unit that was shipped to Germany for installation after the fact, and shipped back to the US when this issue with the frequencies was discovered. I never confirmed it as 1) I don't live in Europe, and 2) I really didn't care because it worked.

Did you have the same model number as I'm looking at?

No, I double checked - mine was different. Mine was actually listed in one of the TSBs as a USDM head unit.

Either the wheels are too big or its lowered too much .. still trying to figure it out.

Not my cup of tea personally, but it sounds like you are very happy with it :-) You definitely stick out of the 987 crowd now! Good job ;-)