mbodo

The part number is only sold for RoW cars. It has been replaced by 997.642.101.11.FMH.

I do not know if it will work (program) in a US car.

Does anyone else know if this unit number can be programmed for the USA? I'd hate to give up a freebie!

Thanks!

It takes an hour to install the thing and maybe another few minutes to activate it via the PIWIS (or..whatever its called). Save yourself some $ if you are cool with your dealer and install the PCM2.1 unit yourself (it is very easy if you aren't installing the nav antenna) and bring it down to the dealership to get it "activated". Whats the worst thats going to happen, you get charged $45 for finding out a $4000 part doesn't work in your car? :thumbup:

Good luck! I did the same thing you did - had navi installed after the fact, and it works fine.

I've managed to spill oil on the trunk liner in the rear trunk. :censored:

What is the part number for the bottom piece of trunk "carpeting" for the rear trunk?

Thanks in advance,

Matt

You don't get this on other cars because the shift lever goes directly to the transmission.

IIRC, the Taurus SHO 5-speed had an SVO option of having the cables replaced with "rods" .. this was reported to really stiffen up the shifter position on these FWD cars. I don't know the dynamics of the shifting lever and associated cabling routes, so pardon my ignorance when I ask if this is possible/feasible on the 986/987?

Just found out that guests can't see the 987 forums, skips from 996 to 986. Have to be logged in to view the 987 forum.

I'm assuming this was not by design, but an oversight?

... from the ever popular childeren's book "Mr. Potatohead Gets a Colonoscopy and Goes Racing" ...

Anyone heard anything more about Dension/DICE systems for MOST bus?

Thanks,

Lee

There is a group buy going on thru the bumper plugs guy. It is released for beta testing now and should be available soon.

I saw an MSRP above that was grossly inaccurate. The price we are being quoted (as MSRP) is $599 with a "group discount rate of below that".

Units are now installed in current model Porsches here in the US for testing as of Monday. Various hurdles are tossed at the systems to see how they handle them, and so far, it seems to be working alright. As with any electronic product, there may be minor tweaks needed, or software changes, but those should be completed by next week.

We anticipate final word on the tests sometime next week. At that time, pending the shipping date for our units, we will email everyone who expressed interest, and ask that they place a refundable deposit with us prior to the order.

Once we have the units inbound to our warehouse, we will notify everyone of final details, and instruct them to place their order for the balance of the payment, and we will ship immediately. If you decide at that time not to participate, your deposit will be refunded.

The units will be available with either cable connection or a cradle connection. MSRP is $599. Group buy price will be LOWER than MSRP, but we are waiting on final word from the manufacturer for our best deal.

2005 Boxster S: I would like to be able to turn just the fog/driving lights on without also turing on the side marker lights and tail lights. Does anyone else wish they could do this? Any ideas on how to do it? A wiring diagram would help if anyone has one. I did a similar mod on another car and use it all the time.

Thanks!

The usual trick is to make a jumper between the fuse for the 12VDC for the fog lights to a fuse for 12VDC that is available when the key is in the ON position.

Why don't you purchase one of the hand held held items? Consumer Reports just did a review. They are about $800. Just a thought.

.. because fools like me enjoy the OEM look .. :lol:

granted, I'd probably much rather enjoy Mr. T telling me "where to go" on a TomTom, but I don't think there's room enough on top of the dash for the TomTom (or Mr. T)

aren't they the exact same parts when you break down the BOM?

any updates? Would be great to get the complete list of "magic" worked to the internals..

fwiw, my windblocker seems to be coming loose/apart on the right hand side of the car. It is "clicked" into place, but rattles/buffets above 50MPH.

Does the '06 Boxster come with an MP3 player/input? Thanks.

No.

But it should play CDs with MP3's on them if you have PCM2.1

I still think there could be a software problem (I'm a software developer :)... ),

you're no software developer. A real software developer would have come to the conlusion that it is a hardware problem.

:cheers: :lol:

Do the battery disconnect. Make sure you have your radio code (if needed).

Do our radios even have radio codes? Had a "used" PCM2.1 headunit installed w/o a radio code, works fine. Don't recall I got one even for the stock CDR-24.

A member of another Porsche forum reports that he just had the option intalled for $3090.84 including parts, labor, and tax.

That was probably me ... bought everything off of eBay. Unfortunately the first DVD player didn't work, and I'm still waiting for customs to release the second DVD player.

Keep in mind I had to replace the CD-24 headunit with a PCM2.1. YMMV.

This is the best place to go: The SCCA High Performance Driving School at Thunderhill in Willows. A pretty easy drive for you from Roseville. The price is about as good as it gets, and you get a full day of lapping sessions with an instructor riding with you the whole time. Looks like there is a class on June 6 with space open. Having said that, you should check to see if they'll accept the Boxster. They did before, but I see they have new language regarding restrictions on convertibles.

Umm:

"All convertibles must be equipped with a "roll bar" that is above the drivers head. Vehicles with factory hoops, or pop up rollover systems are not allowed."

seems pretty straight forward but can someone elaborate on what their "exceptions" might be? (is this where the broomstick rule comes in?)

I purchased the B&M kit for $243 delivered and installed it myself in about 2 hours. Was it the easiest install ever? No, but not the hardest either. No matter what, I can't see paying $500 more for the Porsche part and the install, which is easier than the B&M kit. (FWIW, I'm not trying to flame anyone who went this route, just trying to add my $.02 to the topic!)

so that's the difference between mechanically inclined and bored, and mechanically inclined and lazy :D

The cheapest and most cost effective way I've found to get any significant power gain out of a 987 is to trade it in for a 997. Base for base, S for S.

The biggest "mod" out there seems to be a 3.8l swap out of the 997S. This will set you back anywhere from $25k to $50k. Well worth the investment in the 997S if you ask me (50k engine swap + 50k cost of car OR ... a car that doesn't need the engine swapped).

;)

hmm, short of the wheels, thats just like my car.

Personally I like the opposing color of the faux-silvery plastic parts on the car, but I like the vertical vents of the cayman.

All in all I think you've done a very nice job.

I remember it cost me more for the labor than the part itself. Thought it was extortion at the time, but I eventually got over it. I didn't pay more than $800 though for both labor and part.

"All work inside" probably means reworked heads, pistons, maybe cylinders, strokers, shaft... Will let you know :D

In other words .. "a few bolt on items, and a lot of magic.."

I honestly haven't seen many shops that offer this type of service wholesale for the 987 3.2 at all, but it is nice to see that some high performance shops are up to the challenge. I know Porsche motors aren't anything like, say, a Chevy 350, where you could get lost in the catalogs of upgraded performance part after another.. but I would imagine that there would be someone offering the usual suspects so far as naturally aspirated upgrades are concerned, i.e. heads, cams, stroker kits, pistons, etc as you've mentioned.

By all means, keep us posted. You're the new lab-rat ;)

..drool..

What is involved in the rebuild? Any specifics on what gets changed out vs. what you keep?

When drying your soft top, have you tried using a wet/dry shop vacuum to remove the water? Not only does the top dry without lint, but by sucking up the residual water, you also remove any dirt that is still in the fabric.

before I go sucking crazy, how powerful is your wet dry shop vac? I've got one of these industrial strength styles that can suck harder than a two bit ... well, lets not go there.

also, are you using the rectangular attachment or just the circular host opening itself?

Regards

cute!!

I knew parents would ship their kids off to the United States for a better opportunity than their homeland could offer them any way they could, but stashing them behind the dash is getting out of control!

:clapping:

short of the hexhead bolt, looks similar to a buffer/recoil spring on any handgun. How odd.