gpt817

How's your 996TT doin now? In your estimate, how may HP and torgue it gave you after installing the softronic. 30, 50, 60%.

I plan to get one soon for my 2002 996TT. :thankyou:

I would say how mine is for you but I only got the cable to do it today! so ill be sending my map off them this week.. I'm sure it'll all be fine judging by the amount of good reviews they have had I'd say it's well worth money and you get 495bhp.. nice!! ill keep you posted as how it goes.

I got some AP BOV's too and can see them being a pain in the arse to fit as my OEM plastic valves are fitted using those pipe clips that need pliers to remove! and i'm not sure ill be able to get to them.. does anyone have any instructions on how to fit these please or at lease how i can get to the clips!.

A

Great! Please keep me posted once you upload the softronic to your ECU. :thankyou:

I plan to reflash the ECU of my 996TT. Has anyone had a softronic tuning for their 996TT? Id like to get some feedback before I order one. Thank you.

I would consider EPL. I have flashed my car with both companies and EPL is far superior IMO. Tony is the best in the business when it comes to tuning. The only problem I had with the flash is I also did an exhaust and the combo made so much TQ and HP that I burnt my clutch out in under 10K miles. I've done a bunch of other mods andc now have a stage 3 clutch and LWFW.

How about GIAC? How does it perform?

can you install the new dv's on the original "f" hose ?!?

Yes, you can use your original F hose for the new after market diverter valves.

Can anyone send me a DIY on how to install diverter valves for my 996 turbo? Thank you and will appreciate your response.

How many HP increase if you swap a K16 for a K24?

Model year please?

And. is this a US/Canada car or RoW?

Its a 2002 Porsche 996 turbo, US/canada car. Car came from northern california.

Thanks

I found a connector with Violet and red/blue wires laying vacant in my 996TT. Looking at the wiring diagram the connector is for the tank venting valve. I used the durametric and the fault says "tank venting valve" (cant recall the number).

Can anybody tell me where the socket of the tank venting valve connector is located?

Thanks.

NGK is concerned with selling plugs. They'll claim a lot. I'd not gamble with them, based solely on the time involved with swapping plugs on these cars...

Bosch FR6 for mine, no question.

Mike

I replaced my bosch plugs with colder BKR7 NGK plugs and they work well with my 996TT. Colder plugs are recommended for hotter turbo engines. The car runs smoother and acceleration response is much better. Bosch plugs are good but I think Japanese NGK plugs are better based on experience. Its cheaper too and doesnt foul right away.

Hello JP,

We finally found the source of the "p0013 camshaft adjustment open circuit" fault code.

It's a simple wrong connector for the wrong socket. The connector going to the solenoid with grey/red and red/blue wires was plugged into the socket of the blow-off valve socket. While the connector for the blow-off valves socket was plugged in to the variocam solenoid.

A couple of weeks ago, I had an independent porsche mechanic fixed the water leak at the oil and water cooler at the back of the throttle body which required aluminum welding of the water plug. He removed a lot of parts to get into the oil/water cooler and apparently plugged in the wrong connectors to the variocam solenoid when he reassembled the car..

We removed the solenoid the other day and installed it back yesteday afternoon and plugged in the right connector- WALAAA- the P0013 fault disappeared using the durametrics and no more CEL. The car zooms faster now than when the fault was still around. Probably the DME retards the timing when there's a fault code.

Thank you very much for your time and concern in helping me out. It was only to find out a wrong connector was plugged in to a wrong socket.

Well, that's a lesson learned and I had fun. Best regards.

Willie

Just found a previous discussion about the same problem. Iceyankee-tsi was able to take the solenoid from the right cylinders and switch it to the left to be able to found out if the solenoid was at fault. It is interesting to see the progression but we don't have the follow up and final fix....

Hello JP,

Yes, I read the thread of Iceyankee-tsi.

We removed the solenoid yesterday. We got a 11 ohms reading using a digital tester. When we put in a 12v to the solenoid, it wouldn't click right away.After a few jolts of 12v it clicked. After jolting it several times, the clicking got louder and louder. It seems it is faulty or maybe it needed a workout of 12v current. I already ordered a solenoid from autoatlanta.com. Hope it gets here in a few days.

We checked the wires b+ and the trigger wires and there's continuity. We plan to remove the solenoid of bank2 today and swap it on bank1. The engine compartment is so tight and we have to make a special 32mm socket wrench to remove the solenoid. Will keep you posted tonight or tomorrow morning.

Thanks for your help. Eventhough we are from different countries, We are brothers in Porsche. God bless you. :thumbup:

Hello again, Jpflip.

I drove last sunday my 2002 996 turbo and got a CEL after a few miles driving. When I got back home. I used the durametric and found these codes:

p0013- camshaft adjustment bank1 open circuit

p0300- porsche falut 507 misfire detection

p0301- porsche fault code 508 misfire cylinder 1

p0302- porsche fault code 510 misfire cylinder 2

p0303- porsche fault code 512 misfire cylinder 3

The CEL light was flashing before I plugged in the durametric.

Can you give some clues what these means and what to do? I erased the faults and its back to normal. the CEL comes out after taking a long drive.

Ive already check the trigger wire and the b+ and they had connectivity. I suspect the soleniod is faulty and is causing the p0013 code. I ordered one with the o-ring at autoatlanta as you reccomended.

Thank you.

I have a 01 turbo and I think I have a problem with the sensor that indicates when the driver side door is closed. It started with the window not staying slightly down when the door was open - the result was that the door would not close. Now the window does not make the small move up when the door is closed. Also the door lights stay on as if the door is not closed. And I can't lock the door with the remote and I get the single horn beep as if something is not closed.

I would appreciate any ideas or an indication of where the sensor is that indicates when the door is closed.

I had the same problem today on the driver side door. The source of the problem came from the connector of the door sensor inside the door panels behind the door lock/opener assembly.If it's loose, the windows wont go up and you cant lock the doors with the key and the door light will stay on.

All you got to do is remove the door panel, checked if the door sensor connector is tightly connected and that's it. I taped the connectors so that it wont move anymore. Constant opening and slamming the door over a period of time caused the loosening of the connectors. After that, I could lock and unlock the car with the remote and the windows would go all the way up when Im driving.

There is a site that give you all the Porsche parts catalog it is AutoAtlanta and you will found the parts in question item#23 and #24 AutoAtlanta 2. #23: camshaft actuator 996 105 303 71 and #24: o-ring 999 707 504 40.

For your question about driving it that way, I cannot tell! Having a "real" fault on a variocam system is evident. If you got a Durametric you can reproduce what a fault of this system represent. You have to use "drive link" and select the bank you want to fail. You will see a very strong change in engine RPM and engine sound.... This is the only experience I got with a failed variocam system.

:thankyou: Thanks again. We first checked the connectors, tightened the clips a bit and sprayed contact cleaner. Then, we connected a 12v line to the soleniod and it clicks. However, when I used the "drive links" of the durametric, it couldnt activate the bank1 solenoid. I activated the bank 2 and it clicks. Afterwards, we checked the the b+ line, there's continuity. We still haven't checked the trigger wire going up to the DME. Will do it today.

Nevertheless, I test drove the car yesterday and it was normal. The CEL didn't lit up (it lights up after driving one miles or more) but when I used the durametric, the "P0013 camshaft adjustment bank1 open circuit" was still there. We will continue looking for source of the fault. We havent checked the harness and connectors on bank to leading to the DME.

Is there an easier way to check the trigger wire?

Best regards.

Willie

:renntech:

Thanks Jpflip. :thankyou: Appreciate it. Will work on the car this weekend.

Question- will I damage the engine if I continue driving it? If I can drive it, how hard can I push the car? No one follows the speed limit in our country. That's our valuable freedom here in our country- we can over speed anywhere and the cops wont pull you over. They dont have radar guns too. :)

In case I need to replace the soleniod, do you a part number for that? Thanks again.

P0013 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 Output Stage - Open Circuit

Possible fault cause

- Open circuit in triggering wire

- Open circuit in B+ supply

- Solenoid hydraulic valve faulty

Thank you. Will work on that.

My 2002 996 Turbo CEL suddenly lit up last weekend. Then, I used my durametric and the fault code showed "P0013 Camshaft Adjustment bank1 Open Circuit". I could erase the fault but it comes back after driving a couple of miles. I didnt feel any changes on how the car runs even at .7bar boost. It drove normally.

Can anyone help me fix this problem?

Thank you.