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roger_mck

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Everything posted by roger_mck

  1. Yes - there is the (first) tube that runs from the trunk to near the throttle where it is clamped to another that goes down behind the engine. The first tube, near the clamp, has a uniform coating of oil on the outside of it. It starts near the union of the two, extends back towards the trunk, and tapers off to nothing after about a foot or so. But it almost looks like it 'sweats', there is not an obvious crack or break in the tube. I appreciate your advice. I've been going back and forth trying to figure if it is the tube itself or the union between the two that could be a problem. There is also a tiny amount of oil on the engine, right under the union. Maybe a new filler tube would do... don't think I have any hi-temp duct tape!
  2. Haven't made much time for the Boxster lately but I did get the plugs changed. I found both Beru r6 336 and r6 310 plugs, I'll assume for now they're equivalent. But I never had seen a plug where the gap appears set below the base of the center electrode. Again for now I'll just assume that's the way Beru plugs are configured.
  3. Last year I was getting codes 1123 and 1125, lean threshold on all cylinders. Replacing the MAF solved the problem for about eight months. This is a '99 2.5. 1123 and 1125 recently came back. I added some fuel system cleaner to a tank of gas, reset the codes, and drove about 300 miles w/no CEL. Then the CEL came back except is was codes 1124 and 1126, rich threshold. I reset the CEL and the same codes came back within a few days. I was wondering if anyone had ideas about what might cause this combination of codes? I suspect that having both a too rich and then too lean condition might be a good clue. Also - the oil filler tube - is it 'normal' for it to be coated with a fair amount of oily grime? Not all over the engine, pretty much just on the outside of the plastic section of tubing near the clamp? It didn't seem to me like there was an obvious problem but it also didn't look quite right. It's about time for new plugs and the fuel filter is about 25,000 miles of age. Guess I'll do those at any rate and see if anything changes. Thanks!
  4. hopefully this link will work, I did a search here on 'air vent' and found... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3131
  5. The light on my '99 went on when the coolant was low - only sometimes though - I don't recall any flashing. It appeared when the coolant level went maybe one tablespoon below the full mark.
  6. Well a new MAF and almost 24 hours w/no CEL - we'll see how it goes. Iwould say the car did not run any worse w/out the MAF. And the air intake temp readings are kinda suspicious - 96.8 always - yeah right. Anyone know what might affect o2 readings for just one side of the engine? O2 sensors 1 and 1b read abnormally low sometimes...
  7. Almost 24 hours now w/no CEL! It is a really easy part to change. I had until recently never even looked at the engine - but instructs for access are in the owners manual. Car seems to run good w/the new MAF but I still seem to get odd readings from one set of oxygen sensors and I am expecting the CEL to come back soon. I don't know what might affect only one side of the sensors, maybe a vacuum leak who knows. Bought it from autohausaz - the only real issue was determining if I wanted the one for e-gas or not - there are two MAF sensors out there. Does anyone know if the connectors are different? I hope so - I just replaced mine with the same part that was alredady there (non e-gas). But I bought the car used...
  8. I'll be replacing the MAF sensor on my '99 tonight. Similar problem except I have codes p1123/p1125 (too rich). When I run with the MAF disconnected the only codes I get are the ones that say the MAF is disconnected, no 1123/1125. And the car actually runs significantly better. I am fortunate to have a buddy that loaned me his OBDII scanner to read the engine codes. The MAF is really easy to access. It is on the air intake right next to the air filter. You will need a torx #20 or #30 security driver (the kind with a hole in the center) to remove the two screws that hold it in place. A replacement should run you about $250 if you order yourself (my dealer quoted me $600 to replace :huh: ).
  9. BTY - I had the car out tonight and (with the MAF disconnected) running absolutely great. Better than ever. Tempted to fix the problem with some electricians tape over the cel...
  10. Thanks Loren. What do you think about the following... I 'cleaned' the MAF sensor and got codes p1125 p1123 (o2 lean threshold) p0102 (no MAF). Then I disconnected the MAF sensor and got codes p0102 (no MAF) and p0112 (no air intake temp sensor). Is the air intake temp sensor part of the MAF unit? I thought the car ran great with the MAF disconnected. But I hadn't replaced the carpet/padding over the engine and probably just liked the sound!!! Anyway I'm inclined to order a new MAF sensor. Also the OBD2 box was giving me readings that were all over the map on one bank of o2 sensors. I would get readings of maybe .04, wait a few seconds and get .7, etc. Is it normal for these guys to jump around like that?
  11. Hi Guys Thought I would share my CEL story. This is just the first installment... I have a 99 Boxster that I bought used, it now has 73k miles (I added the last 17k). It came down with a CEL ten days ago which the dealer diagnosed as codes P1123 and P1125. I've seen the codes mentioned here before and so have a good idea what's going on. Anyway the dealer sold me an induction cleaning which they thought might clear it up - it did, but only for about two days. My understanding is that the engine is trying to run leaner, but can't lean itself out enough. I'll mention here that I actually had a bad feeling when I filled it up right before the CEL. I grabbed a pump with a hand written sign on it that said 'No auto shut-off, low pressure'. I used the pump anyway and wonder now if I got some crud from the bottom of their tank into my engine... Anyway when the CEL came back on I refilled the tank, added some Techron, reset the CEL by disconnecting the battery and then took off for some highway driving. 300 miles later, no CEL. But when I got back to city driving the CEL came back on pretty quick. Next step was to take a look at the MAF and try cleaning it. It's a Bosch, so I assume not original. Basically I just dumped some tape head cleaner on it and put it back in. Started the car up the next morning, drove a bit with everything OK, and then after it warmed up it wouldn't hold idle speed. Just kept dropping to zero. Gave it one more crank in the garage after I limped home and of course then it -did- hold idle for a bit, just testing my sense of humor I guess. Anyway the engine has otherwise seemd to run fine this whole time. Maybe not as much pep as I would like, but it's been that way since I've had it. Guess tonight I'll borrow a buddy's tester and see what kind of codes I've got. Then I'll clear those out and try running with the MAF disconnected for a while and see what codes result from that. I'll keep you all posted. One last question - I can display my ignorance a bit - how would a faulty gas cap contribute to P1123 and P1125? I actually don't know what proper operation of the gas cap provides - an air tight seal (I assume) or a certain amount of ventilation into/out of the gas tank? Thanks!
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