harryrcb

I have not done a Tiptronic yet but I don't see any problems with the trans holding up as long as it is in good condition now. You will need to do more than flash the ecu, you will have to add and swap some of the wiring to the ecu. Better check into it more carefully before you jump. you may end up paying someone to do it and its not going to be cheap. It is possible that you may have to change some wiring for the trans ecu as well. really not sure as I said I only have done standard transmissions.

 

diconnected battery on my 02 boxster radio cr220 the serial number is either 29005919 or 25005919 the second digit is not complete. appreciate your help

 

Try 7148

 

THANK you that was it

diconnected battery on my 02 boxster radio cr220 the serial number is either 29005919 or 25005919 the second digit is not complete. appreciate your help

Sorry did not realize that, Has the car been sitting for some time? You can get corrosion build up on your contacts. Its worth a try take you DME plug off and on several times to try to clean the contacts also the alarm under your seat.

Sounds like you need to adapt the throttle as follows-

With the battery connected, and without touching your throttle,. switch the key on for about 1 minute or more, the switch the key off for at least 10 seconds, again dont touch the throttle during this process. then start it let it idle for a couple of minutes then try your throttle again and let us know with the results

What you need to do is take the front crossover pipe the one your throttlebody is connected to off. Pay attention to the vacuum lines attache to it. take a clean rag and shove it in both side and let it soak up all the oil, you may have to do this several times. clean out the tube from the aos getting rid of all oil . check the intake tube from the maf as sometimes the oil even gets into that. Then you need to clear the codes. then let it idle for 15 minutes and you should be able to drive it but it will still smoke for the first 30 miles or so. You will need the durametric software to clear the codes or find someone that can let you use it.

the O ring on the originals went on the end of the return tube which insterted into the block, on the newer style it goes on the tube that into the top of the cylinder head and yes if you don't get that sealed you will have the higher rpm

all I can tell you is that at a DE session with my 3.2 boxster S, after the second session I have trouble with third gear and I believe a cooler would be a great idea. I am going to install it in mine, I'm in the middle of installing a 3.8 engine and will not put it on the track until I have resolved the trans cooling issue. Location is everything and i will have to follow the spec boxsters idea. there really is no good place to put it and you don't want to get too far away from the trans. So if you find something better, let us know.

Step one, clean out garage

step two push car inside

step three - disconnect battery

Good to go - you might want to cover it as well to keep the dust down.

that piece is held on by 2 plastic tabs from the inside, you have to dismantle the mirror (remove glass) to release them or you take a chance on breaking them off.

maybe a little more info would be helpfull, does the sound come from top or botom, front or back? At this point it would be just a wild gues, could be anything from an exhaust leak, to loose plug, to no oil in your powersteering pump or the AOS breahter tube from your cylinder head came off or broke,

It will fit the earlier cars with slight modifcation to the mount bracket

check this thread out at http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/588568-ghost-machine-wooooooo-sound-45mph.html

on my 986 I did see an improvement as logray said quicker throttle response and definately noticable increase in torque. you might not get that much out of a 996 because it allready has more torque. If you shop around with some reasonably priced upgrades such as cold air intake and exhaust you can squeeze up to 30 more hores. BTW I dinod mine before and aft.

there are 2 places you want to check, the outer cable by the gearbox have a retaining clip to hold it in place , the frequently come off, or sometimes the inner cable has a ball/socket setup that may come loose but not likely or as the moderator said you might have a broken cable

I would not procrastinate having that checked. I recently had a customer bring in his car with less oil than that and convinced him to check everything, found the IMS bearing starting to seize. of course it was the cause of the leak.

I've searched around and found bits and pieces of this issue but not exactly what I have. If I have missed something and someone has a link I apologize ahead and please post it here.

I have been driving the car all summer, with no issues at all. Have had it in the garage for a little over a week because the weather was horrendous. Went to take it out the other morning and it will not start. The engine cranks, sounds like the fuel pump is working and i can definitely smell gas if i keep turning it, but it never catches at all. Battery is only a couple of years old and seems to be cranking strongly, but i threw it on the charger just to be sure and still no change. The other odd thing i noticed was that ALL (every single warning light) of the warning lights come on when i turn the key, and they stay on. I tried another key thinking it might be a bad key fob and same thing.

I wouldn't mind having a shop look at it but i can't even get the thing out of my garage so I am at the DIY phase, which is fine, but I have no idea where to even start with this. As my brother loves to constantly remind me "i don't have a computer in my 914, just a distributor, some plugs and a fuel pump"...yeah yeah yeah.

****update****

So after reading my own post and beating my head on a wall repeatedly, I realized I had not locked or unlocked the car in several weeks. On a hunch I went and locked it using the fob, and then unlocked it again, got in the car and it started!! Did I just get lucky or is there an issue with the immobilizer system that would cause this? I know there is a standby mode for it, but I have garaged the car for long periods (on a trickle charger though) without this happening.

I noticed when batteries sit for a week and even a 2 yr old battery can sulfate the plates which acts like a short in the electronics. the same thing happened to me a week or so ago. the battery sulfated and screwed up the electrical system all lights stayed on. New battery problem went away. could also be dampness inside your car will mess with alarm system which is tied in with your immobilizer. Easy to check take out seat unplug the alarm system look for corossion on contacts (does not have to be much) if you have any daubts clean it and put in back, if the carpet around that area is damp then clean out your convertible top drains, dry out your carpet and keep those clean (most people don't know they are there)

Thanks Iogray for the suggestions. I found the bleeding instructions, but I believe mine is different because it's a tiptronic. I'm positive it's anti-freeze. What's with the left front fan not coming on? I'm fairly certain that it is related.

It could be one of three things. leaking hose (daubt it) cracked tank or the radiator caps have a known issue. look at the part number on the cap if it ends with an 04 you are good if not, replace your cap they are only about $ 12

If its not your cap then look for a cracked tank by pulling the carpet out of your trunk and inspection or removing tank and inspecting. BTW when the caps leak there is a drain tube under the plastic cover under you fill cap that exits out in front of the rear wheel. then check you fuses and relays for your other fan.

My car had the same problem turned out to be the center console lock box was not closing tight, there is a microswitch that had to be fixed. Make sure it's closed all the way.

Hi Harry,

Thanks for the info. It's not something you would glean from looking at the manuals etc.

Luckily, the drain that I've pushed in is on the passenger side (it's a UK, RHD car) so thankfully the fuel tank can stay put.

When you refer to the 'right strut tower' and 'left strut tower' is right and left from the driver's persepctive or as you're stood in front of the car facing the battery?

Thanks again,

Martin

Right in your case would be the drivers side left the passenger

Hi,

I have a 1997 boxster (lovingly referred to as 'the money pit' by my wife).

Amongst several other problems, I too have the soaking wet carpet (on the UK passenger side). I have succcessfully removed and repaired the two rear drain/drip trays and no longer have leaks coming from the rear of the car.

However, I attacked the front drains (well the two either side of the battery - the cenre one I can't find) and they don't seem to connect to anything. This my be that one of the 10 previous owners may have pushed the pipe off or something similar. During my attaempt to clean the drains, I've managed to push one of the drains down into the car. My questions are:

1. Can anyone please tell/show/send a picture of where the center front drain is located? I've seen the diagrams and pictures that are on the web and in the Porsche workshop manual, but they're as clear as mud! There's nothing in the diagram that acts as a landmark for the actual location of the center drain.

2. Can anyone describe how to refit the drains that are either side of the battery please? Do I need to take the wheels/entire front of the car off?

Thanks in anticipation.

Hi Sorry to hear of your trouble, there are 4 drains, two on either side of the battery tray 2 near the firewall.2 near the strut towers, the right one is located by the strut tower in front of the diagonal brace the left one is located near the center of the strut tower (next to it) under a wire harness

As far as putting the hose back on I believe and I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, you will need to drop your fuel tank. I dont know of any other way unless you can fish it out after you take the wheel and covers off toward the rear of the front wheel you will see an openinge where the wire harness and some tubes go in. If you can get it that way then you need to feed it back from the top but it will be a b***h to get it in. - goog luck

Could be you answered your own question - loose spark plug?!! I know its a pain but check it out.

Tool is not necessary just line that sucker up -don't tighten the bolts until you get all of them started

the tripronic has a trans oil cooler on top it might be leaking

+1 on what mcmike27 said. you are pretty normal for Florida. BUT clean those rads. not necessarily a fun job but a must do job. also pull you a/c condesors out and clean in between the radiators. DO IT. also the 160 thermostat from LN engineering is a great idea, I did it to my car and really helped