fltrplntman

I own a 99 Boxster. This is the first car that I've owned with unidirectional tires so I'm curious about how to care for the tires. Specifically, how do I rotate unidirectional tires? The rears are a different size from the fronts and there's nothing gained by flipping them from one side to the other. Sooo - what to do? Just keep them balanced?

Have them unmounted from the wheels and placed on the opposite wheel. The both rotate the same direction, but the camber wear will now be on the outside and should even up after several thousand miles.

2001 Boxster S with Tiptronic -

Last night as I pulled in the driveway, got an urge to see how well parking brake might stop the car. Admittedly had no reason to do that, just wanted to see what would happen.

Rolling at about 5 MPH with Tip in D and feet off of both brake and gas pedals, I pulled up on the lever while holding the release button down. I applied just enough pressure to generate some resistance at the lever. When I did that there was a bang or clunk from the rear end. I released the lever and drove it around fopr a while to make sure nothing odd was going to happen. There were no abnormal noises and acceleration / braking performance seemed normal.

Any idea what caused the bang?

Just dealt with this. Its the loose park brake shoes. I also had a high pitched squeal at the same time. I took the rotors off and had the drum part roughed up. I then cleaned everything and re-assembled. Adjusted the brake shoes, and found that i didn't need to adjust the hand lever at all.

Squealing went away, and the loud bang was reduced down to a light click.

Interesting.. I wonder what it would look like if it followed the contour of the boot lid edge.

I just changed my serpentine belt on my 98 Boxster. I was surprised that NAPA had the belt in stock. PN NBH-25060832 $33.38

This is the belt for A/C equipped cars.

The non-A/C cars will use PN NBH-25060760 $27.31

Not a hard job. But it does require 3 hands.

Boxster S 3.2, 2001, 37K miles

Some guidance and previous experience would be welcome.

I just paid £600 for a minor service at Porsche East London. As part of their "Visual Health Checks" they have identified approx £5,000 worth work to be done ranging from cosmetic to major. Highlights are:

• slight oil leak from rear of engine (£1230)

• ignition coil cracks (£360)
• slight clicking from front suspension top mounts (£660)
• front brake pad and discs worn (£780)
• rear discs corroded and worn as well as pads (£690)
• catalytic heat shields loose and corroded (£136)
• and so on

The point being - this is all clearly expensive so I would like some feedback on my options.

• what work can I do myself (novice so would need a step by step guide)?
• 2nd opinion from a non-porsche dealer (makes logical sense - but strategy would be helpful)
• go the whole hog and fork out for the major/critical works (porsche have promised a 10% discount - which is pretty poor considering)
• sell the car and buy something cheaper to run (depressing thought but has crossed my mind nevetheless)

Many thanks in advance

S

The only thing you mentioned that concerns me is the leak at the rear of the engine. Might be the Intermediate shaft bearing leaking.

I have only just bought my 1999 2.5 boxster.....Total virgin when it comes to this car.....but when i accelerate hard, when i get to between 4000-5000rpm the engine strugles and holds back......as if a limiter had kicked in yet i have another 2-3000 rpm before it hits the red line......anyone have any ideas before i start replacing parts.......top speed that i have had out of it is only 125mph.....

Regards Mike

I had the same problem with my 98. I just bought it 2 weeks ago, and I felt it nose over at about 4500 rpm. A few days later a CEL came on and the codes were evaporative in nature.

The weather finally broke and it was nice enough to remove the engine cover to take a peek. i pulled out the air filter and it was completely plugged with the foam prefilter. It broke down from age and crumbled into a fine powder. I looked at the date code and it read 98m02. Looking at it.. I think it the factory air filter.

I replaced it, and the car wouldn't run for crap... barely idled. I deduced that the ECU had adjusted itself to compensate. The new fresh air threw it way the hell off. I cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor, disconnected the battery, waited 15 minutes, reconnected the battery, turned the key on and waited 30 seconds, then started the car.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!

The sound out of the suck hole in the left quarter panel is worth the price of admission.

Happy trails!!

As Glyn said lubing it may not be a good medium/long term solution: the solenoid/Bendix will may start sticking again when the grit adheres to it especially if its not started up that frequently.

It depends on the lube used.. Dry graphite that is used in locksets maybe be what you need. Doesn't attract dust, and stays when you rub it in with your fingers.

I have the "howling starter syndrome" also.. Just waiting for a day off to tackle it.