Sunnyside

Thanks Sunnyside for the tip. I use the car as a daily driver, so stop-and-go is common in the city. Spirited drive is thing of a rarily as people here are equipped with in-car recorders and that they are happy to report to the police a Porsche-driver who does crazy moves... The mechanic told me that this is a problem with the Torque Converter and most people have this without fixing it.

I remember reading somewhere that resetting adaptation is turning the key to ON position without starting the engine for 60 sec??

Thanks.

d.

No , I think you might be getting confused with the throttle adaption/calibration.

Get some one with a Durametric to reset them for you. Did you read the second post where I copied from the Porsche Tech Manual. That explains why you get the noise. However it says change the TCU.......But , resetting the values will also fix the problem. Of course, after an extended period of driving slowly again you will eventually get the problem back.

I would ask your OPC if your old TCU should have been changed for the the modded TCU before now FOC.

If you havent got a Durametric , I would strongly advise you to invest in one.

I have a similar issue.

you can view my thread here

http://www.6speedonl...rate-up-3k.html

Is your Car a Tiptronic.......if not stop confusing the issue as Tips dont have light weight flywheels they have Torque Converters. I presume you are H8T WP on 6 speed and take it your car is a manual???

The OP has described a typical tiptronic trait and now has the Porsche remedy for that problem.

yup thats me :) and thanks for the clarification

lol :thumbup:

Top work mate :) very similar set up to mine ! When your next down from scotland let me know we could meet up

Will do! :thumbup:

This is what POSES Tek Info says: however just reset your adaption values.

Technical Information

© Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG 18.11.2002 tu3052e.doc

Printed in Germany Page 1 of 1

911 Turbo

5/02

E 37013

After Sales

Tiptronic noises

Vehicle Type:

911 Turbo (996)

Model Year:

As of ’01 (1)

Equipment: Tiptronic transmission

Concerns:

Tiptronic control unit

Situation:

Driving noises/jerking during acceleration.

Grinding/rattling noise when accelerating from a standstill or when driving at low speed in third

gear (30 - 50 km/h).

Irregular/hard gear changes and jerking during acceleration also occur occasionally.

Information: The reason for this is the adaptation of the torque converter lockup clutch in the Tiptronic control

unit. If the vehicle is driven in a restrained manner or is frequently driven in stop-and-go traffic, the

Tiptronic control module adapts itself to unfavourable values that cause the aforementioned complaints.

This problem arises only if the car is driven in a comfortable/economical manner and not when it is

driven in a sporty manner.

Procedure: Install a new Tiptronic control unit with modified software.

Part Nos.:

996.618.180.04 New Tiptronic control unit

Introduction: 12th November 2002

99 Z3S 68 0865 RoW

99 53S 68 5844 USA

Procedure: 1 Install and code the new Tiptronic control unit, part No. 996.618.180.04, as described in the

Technical Manual, Group 3, Chapter 37 30 19.

2 Carry out a test drive, making sure that all upshift and downshift points are reached. Do not

switch the engine off after the test drive, but instead let it idle for 10 minutes. The adaptation

values will be written into the transmission control unit only after this time has elapsed.

Working Time:

37 30 55 06 Removing and installing control unit 130 TU

Includes: Removing and installing rear side-panel lining

Programming the control unit

References: 911 Turbo (996) Technical Manual, Group 3:

> Repairs: 37 30 19 - Removing and installing the Tiptronic control unit

I have a similar issue.

you can view my thread here

http://www.6speedonl...rate-up-3k.html

Is your Car a Tiptronic.......if not stop confusing the issue as Tips dont have light weight flywheels they have Torque Converters. I presume you are H8T WP on 6 speed and take it your car is a manual???

The OP has described a typical tiptronic trait and now has the Porsche remedy for that problem.

My car is 2002 tt with tiptronic. On the 3rd or 4th gear, when RPM is slightly under 2000, when I hit the gas, I hear a short grinding sound underneath the car that lasts only about a second, otherwise the car goes just fine. When the engine is reving pass 2000RPM, this never happens. Or when the car is in 2nd gear, this doesn't seem to happen either.

Anyone knows what this grinding sound is??

Thanks.

Apparently its a common thing to have and actually says a little bit about your driving style.

The TCU adapts to your driving style and if you have been driving the car in a very relaxed manor for an extended period the TCU adapts to that style. The way to stop having that grinding noise is to either have your adaption values reset ( disconnecting the battery does not do this). Or take the car for a very spirited drive for a lengthy period.

Don't ask my the nitty gritty info as to exactly why it does it but the TEC info says to reset adaption values!!

I have had similar and used my PST2 to reset the values, I do believe last time I checked that Durametrics can do that as well.

Apparently its nothing to get excited about.

:drive:

Happy New Year everyone and safe... :drive:

Fank

any updates on the turbos? how is the car performing now?

any updates on the turbos? how is the car performing now?

Well, since I had the upgrade done its been doing nothing but Snowing, flash rain flooding and ovver 120 mph winds so the car has been on the CTEK charging for the last month and hasnt driven an inch. :cursing:

Come the better weather ( notice I didnt say good weather) again :huh: I hope to have her out and do some more :drive:

:thumbup:

supprised its not been posted before now but.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Merry Christmas to you all from Bonny Scotland. May ye drink a merry dram o the good stuff and be ye merry.

from the great man Robert Burns him self:

Should auld acquaintance be forgot,

And never brought to mind?

Should auld acquaintance be forgot,

And auld lang syne?

For auld lang syne, my dear,

For auld lang syne,

We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet,

For auld lang syne.

And surely ye'll be your pint-stowp,

And surely I'll be mine!

And we'll tak a cup o' kindness yet,

For auld lang syne.

For auld lang syne, my dear,

For auld lang syne,

We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet,

For auld lang syne.

We twa hae run about the braes,

And pu'd the gowans fine;

But we've wandered mony a weary fit

Sin' auld lang syne.

For auld lang syne, my dear,

For auld lang syne,

We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet,

For auld lang syne.

We twa hae paidled i' the burn,

Frae morning sun till dine;

But seas between us braid hae roared

Sin' auld lang syne.

For auld lang syne, my dear,

For auld lang syne,

We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet,

For auld lang syne.

And there's a hand, my trusty fiere,

And gie's a hand o' thine!

And we'll tak a right guid-willie waught

For auld lang syne.

For auld lang syne, my dear,

For auld lang syne,

We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet,

For auld lang syne.

HAPPY NEW YEAR! and AULD LANG SYNE!

Take care and be safe

Frank

__________________

To Finish 1st, First you have to Finish

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Congratulations on your repair/fix. Like Loren, I would have never suspected the MAF, since all the codes were on bank 2. I guess now, whenever I have a miss I will unplug the MAF and see how she runs.

Joel

I too am taken aback by this as the fault was only on bank 2. Very suprising.

Ok... I checked both, so actually I don't receive signals from the wiring, the wiring harness is ok! is it possible that the new passenger compartment monitoring sensor is broken? will try to get another one tomorrow at the dealer...

Have you checked pin 1 & 4 on the sensor plug. 1 iIRC is the 12v supply and 4 is earth. Perhaps you have lost the earth return?? Or the 12 v supply.

have you any other alarm module fault codes??

but.... should I check the pin 24 and 8 on the control unit alarm system or should I check pin 24 and 8 on the plug A by itself?

They way I read it, its asking to check the wiring.

I've the 96-39 Fault code 33...

Replaced passenger compartment monitoring sensor, but nothing happened..

I'm following the instruction for the fault code 32 (it look to be the same as 34) I have a battery voltage displayed instead of 0, now, how I can check and repair the wiring harness??

which pin are you getting voltage on. It says to check A24 to ground and also A8 to ground. If not 0v then replace sensor.

On the cct diagram when you have disconnected plug A from the alarm /cl module and check A8 to ground the alarm siren would appear to still be connected to A8 as well. In other words A8 is connected to A2 on the interior sensor and also pin A2 of the Siren. The siren might be causing the 12 v on line A24. Pull off the plug to the siren and see if the voltage drops to 0v.

A24 only goes to A3 on the sensor so any voltage on that with the interior sensor plug disconnected A24 to A3 can only come from a short in the wiring/wiring fault.

Nice mod :) Have you changed the gear ratios? If not what where your revs at 200mph?

No, standard ratios but I do believe the rev limit has been raised. Ken at 9E will have more info, as the box is an MKB modded box.

What I do know is the car is geared for 219 mph if we had enough road.

I will be fitting 6 pots and bigger brakes and some IC cooling work to see if I can improve on those figures.

:cheers:

Hi and welcome.

You could do with checking your fuel pressure. It comes to bank 1 injectors first then crosses to bank 2.

If your fuel pressure is dropping bank 2 will be the first to show signs..

When did you last have your pump checked, there is a U pipe on the pump that splits. Starts of small reducing pressure on wot but will eventually split fully. This will cause the car to crank over then splutter but not start.

Of course its just an idea but is worth checking your fuel pressure/delivery and pump U pipe.

Are this Marski (911 tuning) K16 billet Turbos? How much is the price for this turbos?

No there not 16g's or even billets. They have been designed for my car to give 24/18g power with K16 spool.

They are only available via Nine Excellence and believe it or not are very competitive on price.

you will need to contact Ken about them as he paid for all the R&D so has the rights to them .

Frank

Impressive Frank!!!! Good work!!!! Congratulation :cheers:

Thanks JP,

I have to thank Ken at Nine Excellence for the hard work. I had a little bit to do with the new Turbos, but Kens package is the tops.

It means then you dont have to change your K16's for K24/18'g to get in the 650/700 bhp range. We dont think there has ever been a k16 car in the uK to make 200.77 mph at Brunters before. He already has orders in for the the kit. My car was used for the R&D.

:thumbup:

Been busy over the last few weeks. ben to Bruntinghorpe with my 6tt testing my new mods.

Soft intake piping fitted,

K1639 Turbos,

Performance 3 1/2" IC's,

Performance boost hoses

Tune for 1.5 bar,

60 lb injectors,

EBC

K&N,

100 Cell Miltek,

DV's,

MKB Box and TCU

PSS10's all round.

Been testing and doing plenty of laps and runs:

All done on Shell V power 99 ron US 93. No race fuels or additives used.

Brunters has a 1.5deg incline so is deemed to be a slow track as well . Looking forward to getting some Pbox times on the level.

0-300kph 26.91 seconds

0-200 mph 34.17 seconds

0-100 6.5 seconds

0-60 3 seconds

60-130 7.00 seconds.

All Pbox GPS verified

The heart of the kit is the K1639 turbos. They are brand new design made specifically for my car in assocoation with 9E who will supply them with there performance kit.

These Turbos flow 39lb air similar to K24 18'g which flow 40 lbs. However they still retain the K16 turbine and have the distinctive no lag feel.

They produce far more power than K16/16g's and billet Turbos.

Ken at Nine Excellence, 9E, http://www.nineexcellence.com/ is very pleased with the results and conservatively puts the power in the region of 650 bhp. With 0-200 in 34.17 that would be about right.

On the day we also had a 996 GT 2 RS ( 620ps) and we beat the 0-300 time for that by quite a bit.

:drive:

Hi Sunnyside,

Thank you for your insightful reply again. Really appreciated. You saved me from losing sleep over the gearbox.

I am going to bring the car to the indy after a week's worth of driving after the aft change. Having driven it hard and soft for a couple of days, I experienced only smooth and slick gear changes. The question is, where to look for the Adaption Values in the TCU? Is it stored under the menu of Tiptronic on a PIWIS 1? I will be posting those values once I get them. Finger crossed until then.

Sorry for the delay in answering, I have been a bit bust with my 6tt.

Had Soft intake piping fitted, K1639 Turbos, Performance 3 1/2" IC's, Tune for 1.5 bar, 60 lb injectors, along with my K&N, 100 Cell Miltek, DV's, MKB Box and TCU & PSS10's all round.

Been testing.

0-300kph 26.91 seconds

0-200 mph 34.17 seconds

0-100 6.5 seconds

0-60 3 seconds

60-130 7.00 seconds.

All Pbox GPS verified

As to your Tip Adaption values , they are found in the G100 Tiptronic module using Durametrics. I have a PST2 which is great, however my Durametric Version 6 has a few problems connecting to the Tip module. It always has for some reason. i have heard of others with the same issue so perhaps its a Durametric problem.

Well gang, the ugly electrical issue rears its head again. And this time, it was only PART of my aggrevation!

I had been driving the car for the last few weeks a day here and there. No problems. Well today I go to take it to get inspected and registered (let both run out stupidly) and the FIRST car behind me after I pull out this morning? Cop car. Figures. Anyhow, he pulls me over in a parking lot and I turn the car off (leaving radio on). Luckily, he was pretty forgiving, since I already told him I was going to get this stuff done today. Anyhow, I go to turn the car back on and .... nothing. It won't turn over. In the 10 minutes it took him, my battery drained enough so it wouldn't turn over!? Luckily I was close enough to just walk home and get my other car. A quick jump restarted the Porsche.

So I'm really frustrated now. What in the world could be doing this? Over and over the car is draining in minutes (which I gather was really just my issue last time, not the actual washing/ getting something wet). I've got to have a short someplace, but I'm surprised anything could drain a battery that fast.

Can anyone offer insight into what common shorts or drains might occur? I really have no choice other than to take it to the thieves...I mean dealership, but I'd like to at least point them in the right direction so I don't get robbed.

I take it your getting over 12 volts on the dash gauge? say about 13.5 when running after a long period.

My diode pack failed and it would charge the car when first started form cold but as it warmed up the voltage would keep falling. Eventually it reached 10v. Car was running on the battery and it would go flat very quickly.

I have also had a battery that went defective like WVICARY says. If your getting about 13/13.5 volts after a long drive I would invest in a new battery, better still just get one anyway.

Hi Sunnyside,

Thanks for posting the pdf!! It is great!!

The indy deleted both the codes in the Tiptronic / TCU, ECU (is this also named as DME?) on his PWIS. I am going to take the car back in a few days to have another scan to see if any problem is still present. Hopefully nothing will be left.

Thank you very much for your help and I wish you enjoy your lovely TT and may it be as healthy as new!

James

Good news James.

If your indy has a PIWIS then he's on the ball, so great job. Yes the DME is the ECU.

Even if you experience no further issues, the TCU will have adaption values stored and will also store any slippage of the clutch packs even though the slippage might not be enought to trigger a fault code. Its a good way to see if the box is starting to fail. James at Nine Excellence over here noticed mine was in fact slipping in every gear even changing down gear as well.

I think you would still be wise to invest in a Durametric, they do loads of things not just read codes. eg you can run all your fans at different speeds, check our alarm, switch off individual coil packs to find a misfire. etc etc x100.lol

Just got the call from JZM. They have sorted it in a morning, amazing service from these guys, seriously impressed.

It was the 3 way valve and electric motor thing for £16! I think is the 'N75' valve I have read about? Also the repaired actuators I had done before and the waste gate calibration was off. Now boosting 0.8 -0.9. They really know their stuff.

So a couple of little bits and 2 hours labour. Looking forward to driving it. I thought it was fast before.

Brilliant result & please for you.

:clapping:

Right you are, Sweeney. I have good news, just got the car back and went for a test drive. The car is back to normal again with up-hill starts and successful full throttle gear changes in any gear. Gear changes are now silky smooth and quick as it was.

The indy said only 3.5 liters of ATF fluid came out of the gearbox during the change and they managed to fill 5.5L back in. Is there anything that I should now watch out for about the gearbox and other parts of the car before it goes wrong?

Have I overlooked something from the fault codes?

Really appreciate for all the help!!!

James

That's good news, as i said last post he box should hold about 9 lts of fluid and you should change out 4.5. so it looks like you were low on ATF. Your indy will tell you its also critical to have the correct level, hence the reason why the Tip box should be filled IIRC between 20-40 deg C

Anyway, good its running well. Did your indy delete the fault codes stored in the TCU, this is different to the fault codes stored in the DME??? Its very important that he did so if you have any re-ocurance of faults you dont get confused with the last faults stored.

Here are the other 2 TCU tip codes. for p701 Sorry there all pasted form a PDF file and I am having a hell of a time getting it right to paste on here.

P0701

15 Excessive speed n2 or n3

A check is carried out to ascertain whether the n2 sensor signal or

the n3 sensor signal exceed a limit value. The aim of the fault detection

is to detect a hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission.

The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module

Diagnosis conditions

•

Ignition on

•

n2 > 7000 rpm or n3 > 7000 rpm

Possible fault cause♦

Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears

♦

Excessive speed sensor n3 or outer disk bracket faulty

Affected terminals.

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings

→ End

................................................................................................

49 Excessive speed engine

The CAN engine speed signal is checked to ascertain whether a

limit value is exceeded. The aim of the fault detection is to detect a

hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission.

The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module

Diagnosis conditions

•

Ignition on

•

Engine speed > maximum switch speed + offset (e.g. max.

switch speed = 6000 rpm, offset = 500 rpm)

Possible fault cause

♦

Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears

Affected terminals

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings

→ End

........................................................................................

TBC

50 Impermissible transmission ratio

The transmission is checked to ascertain whether it shifts down

permissible

The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module!

Diagnosis conditions

•

Ignition on

Possible fault caus

♦

Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears

Affected terminals

-

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings

→ End

..................................................................................

51 Transmission slips or gear implausible

Checks are carried out to ascertain whether a gear is implausible or

the transmission slips.

The redundancy transistor is switched off. The setpoint values of

the current regulator are set to 0 and all change-over valves are

switched off. The control module is then in emergency operation.

Minimal cycle is additionally activated.

Diagnosis conditions

•

Ignition on

•

No active gearshift

•

No speed n2 fault

•

Engine speed n2 > 150 rpm

•

No selector lever fault

•

No CAN faul

•

No PSM fault

•

At least one plausible rear wheel speed

•

All plausible PSM wheel speeds > 50 rpm

•

Difference between right and left wheel speed < 100 rpm (rear

and front)

•

Output shaft speed > 180 rpm

•

Engine speed > 450 rpm

Possible fault cause

♦

Leak in hydraulic wiring

♦

Leak in mechanical transmission parts

♦

Oil filter missing

Affected terminals

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Note!

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings

→ End

I would like to add that the Indy said the old ATF fluid still looks reasonably well do not smell burnt, acrid or bad in any way and that there were very minimal deposits. So, now new ATF filter n fluid are going in.

Ps the leak only happens at the oil pan gasket. And that only 3-3.5L of old ATF fluid were able to be extracted from the gearbox.

Is the car being fixed the way it should?

James

I would like to add that the Indy said the old ATF fluid still looks reasonably well do not smell burnt, acrid or bad in any way and that there were very minimal deposits. So, now new ATF filter n fluid are going in.

Ps the leak only happens at the oil pan gasket. And that only 3-3.5L of old ATF fluid were able to be extracted from the gearbox.

Is the car being fixed the way it should?

James

Hi James, you should normally get about 4.5 lts of oil out on a change. The box hold about 9 ltrs abut only 4.5 ltr are removed.

I would also check the wiring connector half way down on the left hand side of the Tip box. Its quite short and can be under some strain. Its also open to the elements . I have known of a plug failing due to corrosion and one other had pulled the plug apart.

The Tip P codes form the DME are generated form the TCU and are not comprehensive. You need to have the TCU fault codes read out as well .Here are the TCU fault codes for P701:

0-8

P0701

15 Excessive speed n2 or n3

A check is carried out to ascertain whether the n2 sensor signal or

the n3 sensor signal exceed a limit value. The aim of the fault detection

is to detect a hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission.

The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module

Diagnosis conditions

•

Ignition on

•

n2 > 7000 rpm or n3 > 7000 rpm

Possible fault cause♦

Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears

♦

Excessive speed sensor n3 or outer disk bracket faulty

Affected terminals.

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings

→ End

................................................................................................

49 Excessive speed engine

The CAN engine speed signal is checked to ascertain whether a

limit value is exceeded. The aim of the fault detection is to detect a

hydraulic or mechanical malfunction of the transmission.

The frictional connection is interrupted by the Tiptronic control module

Diagnosis conditions

•

Ignition on

•

Engine speed > maximum switch speed + offset (e.g. max.

switch speed = 6000 rpm, offset = 500 rpm)

Possible fault cause

♦

Mechanical fault in the front planetary gears

Affected terminals

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Disassemble transmission and repair according to findings

→ End

........................................................................................

TBC

Sunnyside, have you actually seen a oil pump with a crank housing on these trannies? Are they common?

Stripping down a Tip box is well out of my paygrade (lol) and expertise so I have never seen inside the box, only schematics. Manual boxes , cant see an issue with stripping down but the thought of stripping down an auto Tip's TBH scares the life out of me. apparently MKB see this quite often.

Its an issue with me , a keen hands on guy that I cant fully maintain my car .With my other cars ,Cosworths for eg , I could strip down any part of the car and rebuild. OK with it being a Ford that was fairly regular.lol. I suppose I would prefer to fix problems more frequently that are within my scope, than have a car that remains fairly reliable but eventually when something mayor does go wrong I cant do anything.

Will be interesting to see what codes are read out.

TBH i would hope that its something simple like an actuator solenoid failing, so long as the clutch packs have not been damaged and the oil not fried, it might not be such a "big fix". I was unlucky, I replaced the filter and fluid, which is not cheep, in the hope that was the problem. Alas, mKB found the defective pump. So I had a full MKB power kit mod done with the TCU upgrade as well.