Sunnyside

96-62 Fault code 60

Central locking limit position - locked not reached

Diagnostic conditions

• Control of central locking system in the direction of "locked"

Possible cause of fault

♦ Switch for central locking faulty

♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the

alarm system control module, switch for central locking or door

locks

♦ Driver’s/passenger’s door lock faulty

♦ Control module faulty

Affected terminals

Plug A, terminals 5, 28, 29, 30, 32

Plug B, terminals 8 and 9

During troubleshooting, the micro switches of the door locks are

tested in Step 4. The test is to be used only for vehicles with "safe

position". USA vehicles do not have a "safe" position; "Driver’s door

secured" and "Passenger’s door secured" are therefore displayed

during the "Input signals" test.

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check switch for central

locking

♦ In the menu item "Input signals",

select "Central locking

system button"

♦ Actuate central locking system

switch and check the statuses

on the screen

⇒ Step 2 ⇒ Step 5

2 Check leads between the

alarm system control

module and the door

locks for short circuit to

ground

♦ Pull plugs A and B off the

alarm system control module

♦ Pull plug off both door locks

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 5 and ground

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 28 and ground

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 30 and ground

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 32 and ground

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 8 and ground

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 9 and ground

∞ Ω

⇒ Step 3

Repair wiring harness

→ End

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

3 Check leads between the

alarm system control

module and the door

locks for open circuit

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 5 and pin 7 on plug

of door lock on driver’s side

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 28 and pin 7 on

plug of door lock on passenger’s

side

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 30 and pin 3 on

plug of door lock on driver’s

side

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system control

module pin 32 and pin 3 on

plug of door lock on passenger’s

side

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 9 and pin 2 on

plug of the driver’s side and

passenger’s side door locks

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 9 and ground

< 5 Ω

⇒ Step 4

Repair wiring harness

→ End

4 Check micro switches of

the two door locks (possible

detection of faulty

driver’s/passenger’s

door lock)

♦ Push plugs A and B back onto

the alarm system control module

♦ Reconnect plugs to both door

locks

♦ Close doors

♦ Vehicle not secured and not

locked

♦ Select "Driver’s side locked",

"Passenger’s side locked"

"Driver’s side secured" and

"Passenger’s side secured" in

menu item "Input signals".

Driver’s side not

locked

Passenger’s side

not locked

Driver’s side not

secured (not applicable

to USA vehicles)

Passenger’s side

not secured (not

applicable to USA

vehicles)

⇒ Step 12

⇒ Step 11

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

5 Check switch for central

locking

♦ Remove switch for central

locking and pull plug off the

switch

♦ Measure resistance between

pins 4 and 1 on the central

locking switch

Central locking

switch actuated in

"close" direction

< 5 Ω

Central locking

switch not actuated

in "close" direction

∞ Ω

⇒ Step 6

Replace switch for

central locking

→ End

6 Check switch for central

locking

♦ Measure resistance between

pins 4 and 2 on the central

locking switch

Central locking

switch actuated in

"open" direction

< 5 Ω

Central locking

switch not actuated

in "open" direction

∞ Ω

⇒ Step 7

Replace switch for

central locking

→ End

7 Check the wire from the

central locking switch to

the control module for

short to ground

♦ Pull plug off switch for central

locking

♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system

control module

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on control module pin

29 and ground

∞ Ω

⇒ Step 8

Repair wiring harness

→ End

8 Check the wire from the

central locking switch to

the control module for

open circuit

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on control module pin

29 and plug on switch for central

locking pin 1

< 5 Ω

⇒ Step 9

Repair wiring harness

→ End

9 Check the wire from the

central locking switch to

the control module for

open circuit

♦ Measure resistance between

pins 1 and 2 of plug for central

locking switch

approx. 180 Ω at

20 °C

⇒ Step 10

Repair wiring harness

→ End

10 Check wire from fuse C 3

to switch for central locking

♦ Switch on ignition

♦ Measure voltage between plug

on the central locking system

pin 4 and ground

> 11 V

⇒ Step 12

Check fuse C 3 or

repair wiring harness

→ End

11 ♦ Depending on the test result of the input signals test in

step 4, replace the driver's/passenger's door lock

→ End

12 ♦ Replace alarm system control module → End

96-60 Fault code 58

No current in tank servomotor despite relay actuation

Diagnostic conditions

• Central locking system actuation in the direction "safe" or

"locked"

Possible cause of fault

♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the

switching element for the filler flap and the alarm system control

module

♦ Open circuit in wire between ground point 7 and alarm system

control module

♦ Switching element for filler flap faulty

♦ Control module faulty

Affected terminals

Plug B, terminals 1, 5 and 10

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check wire between

ground point 7 and alarm

system control module

for open circuit

♦ Switch off ignition

♦ Pull plug B off the alarm system

control module

♦ Measure the resistance between

plug B pin 1 and ground

< 5 Ω

⇒ Step 2

Repair wiring harness

→ End

2 Check the wiring from the

switching element for the

filler flap to the alarm system

control module for

short circuit to ground

♦ Pull plug off switching element

for filler flap

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 5 and ground

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 10 and ground

∞ Ω

⇒ Step 3

Repair wiring harness

→ End

2 Check the wiring from the

switching element for the

filler flap to the alarm system

control module for

open circuit

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 5 and pin 2 on plug

of switching element for filler

flap

♦ Measure resistance between

plug B on alarm system control

module pin 10 and pin 1 on plug

of switching element for filler

flap

< 5 Ω

⇒ Step 3

Repair wiring harness

→ End

3 Check output signal of the

alarm system control

module

♦ Select "Filler flap" in menu item

"Drive links"

♦ Perform a drive-link test and

simultaneously measure the voltage

on the plug of the switching

element for filler flap, pins 1 and

2

A short voltage

pulse can be measured

with the digital

multimeter

⇒ Step 4

⇒ Step 5

4 ♦ Replace switching element for filler flap → End

5 ♦ Replace control module → End

Dear Renntech,

I had just parked my 996MY99C2 and upon locking the car with the remote, I got a double horn beep back and checked to see if the doors indeed had locked. The doors were unlocked. I tried again with the same result, and then opted for locking with the key. The driver-side door locks but the passenger side remains unlocked with the double horn beep to follow. However, the trunk, engine compartment, and gas lid are locked (and does not disengage lock with key opening).

Once home I inserted my laptop with Durametric cable and read the alarm fault memory.

Fault codes as follows:

34: interior sensor faulty (status present)

58: tank servo motor not energized (status present)

60: central locking limit position (lock not reached)

33: interior sensor faulty (status not present)

46: control locking synchronization (status present)

61: central locking limit position (status not present)

The lights are all inoperable inside the car. The window motors does not operate with controls, but the windows (both sides) lower and close with the doors closing.

The alarm system fuse B8 (15AMP) seems OK.

Overall it seems that the alarm system is out of sync with the doors OR the passenger side lock mechanism is bust.

Any help is good help!

Sincerely,

Hans

Hi , Its faults like this as iMO the alarm system is the achilles heel of our cars.

96-40 Fault code 34

Passenger compartment monitoring sensor, short circuit

to B+ or faulty

Diagnostic conditions

• Alarm system activated

Possible cause of fault

♦ Short circuit to voltage in the wiring between the alarm system

control module and the passenger compartment monitoring sensor

♦ Passenger compartment monitoring sensor faulty

Affected terminals

Plug A, terminals 8 and 24

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check supply voltage of

the sensor

♦ Switch off ignition

♦ Pull off the plug on the passenger

compartment monitoring

sensor

♦ Measure voltage between the

plug on the passenger compartment

monitoring sensor pin 1

and pin 4

> 11 V

⇒ Step 2

Check or repair wiring

harness

→ End

2 Check the wiring from

passenger compartment

monitoring sensor to

alarm system control

module for short circuit to

B+

♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system

control module

♦ Switch on ignition

♦ Measure voltage between plug A

on alarm system pin 24 and

ground

♦ Measure voltage between plug A

on alarm system pin 8 and

ground

0 V

⇒ Step 3

Repair wiring harness

→ End

3 Check the wiring from

passenger compartment

monitoring sensor to

alarm system control

module for open circuit

♦ Switch off ignition

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system pin 24

and plug on passenger compartment

monitoring sensor pin 3

♦ Measure resistance between

plug A on alarm system pin 8

and plug on passenger compartment

monitoring sensor pin 2

< 5 Ω

⇒ Step 4

Repair wiring harness

→ End

4 ♦ Replace passenger compartment monitoring sensor → End

Your going to have to do some data logging in that case.

I am really surprised you don't have some codes. So you need to have a look at your: Set boost,IAT's, Ignition angle, Maf data, rpm, O2 pre cat 1 and 2 (to work out AFR).

Do some pulls in 3rd form 2000 to 6000 rpm and see what you get. Your garage that has done all the checking so far should be able to interpret the data. I'm sure better than me on here will also be able to as well.

i recon there are a few more items to data log but I just cant think of the atm. Hopefully some one who regularly data logs will come along.

Frank

My problem is with the oil temp ,,, i am getting the code and also i cant read my oil level because the cluster is giving me a msg that the engine is not wormed up ,,,

i changed the oil sensor and still the same problem ,i am thinking of removing the sensor switch to see if i get a different code other than p0197(LOW Voltg) and that will indicate that the harness is fine ??? what do u think ???

maybe there is way to know which pin refers to oil temp sensor from the DME side so i can check for continuity ?

Been out all day, but had a look at the wiring diagram. Nearly all the signals go to the instrument cluster first not the DME.

Here are the pin numbers required at the instrument cluster:

B18 ground oil level colour Br/Or

B2 Oil level Colour Gn/Bu

B5 Oil Pressure Colour Gn/Rd

A13 Oil pressure switch Colour Gn/Wh

I will look to see if I can find some more .

Frank

Right also found the Motor Oil Temperature goes to the DME pin C5 Colour Gn/Rd.

Apart form oil temp it would appear the DME doe not have anything else to do with the oil pressure or level

:)

Why don't you try doing a continuity test from the oil temp sensor to pin C5 on the DME. Remove the plug so its not connected to the dme, then you cant do any harm. See if there is a break in between C5 and the temp sensor plug.

Or run the engine to normal temp, then measure the resistance of the temp sensor.

60 °C 2.8 - 3.5 kΩ

90°C 1.0 - 1.3 kΩ

120°C 0.4 - 0.6 kΩ

I would think you should be in the range of 90°C 1.0 - 1.3 kΩ.

maybe there is way to know which pin refers to oil temp sensor from the DME side so i can check for continuity ?

Been out all day, but had a look at the wiring diagram. Nearly all the signals go to the instrument cluster first not the DME.

Here are the pin numbers required at the instrument cluster:

B18 ground oil level colour Br/Or

B2 Oil level Colour Gn/Bu

B5 Oil Pressure Colour Gn/Rd

A13 Oil pressure switch Colour Gn/Wh

I will look to see if I can find some more .

Frank

Right also found the Motor Oil Temperature goes to the DME pin C5 Colour Gn/Rd.

Apart form oil temp it would appear the DME doe not have anything else to do with the oil pressure or level

:)

hi all i need ur kind help with the following

1-

p0197 Oil temperature

i changed the sensor and still its not working i cant know the oil level coz am getting engine is not worm massage , durametric is giving me this code again and again , i understand it could be the harness or the DME(hopefully not) , how can i check the wiring ? i want to check if the wiring is ok (grounding maybe ?)

2-

4460 Pressure sensor

when i reach the speed of 50kilo/m i get PSM/ABS

how can i troubleshoot the system ?below 50km the ABS seems to work fine

thanks in advance

1. DME 7.8

1709 P0197 0-37 page 1

DME 7.8

p0197

0

Printed in Germany, 2000

0-37 P0197

125 Oil temperature sensor - below limit

Diagnosis conditions

• Idle speed

• Time elapsed after engine start-up greater than 5 minutes

Possible fault cause

♦ Temperature sensor faulty

♦ Wiring harness

♦ DME control module faulty

Affected terminals

Terminal III/5 and III/17

Resistance values

60 °C 2.8 - 3.5 kΩ

90°C 1.0 - 1.3 kΩ

120°C 0.4 - 0.6 kΩ

0

Printed in Germany, 2000

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check temperature sensor

♦ Connect special tool 9637 to

wiring harness (DME control

module plug)

♦ Measure resistance between Pin

III/17 and Pin III/5

2.8 - 3.5 kΩ

(at 60 °C)

⇒ Step 2

Replace temperature

sensor

→ End

2 Check wiring from DME

control module to temperature

sensor for continuity

♦ Connect special tool 9637 to

wiring harness (DME control

module plug)

♦ Remove plug connection of temperature

sensor

♦ Measure resistance between

special tool 9637 Pin III/17 and

temperature sensor plug Pin 2

♦ Measure resistance between

special tool 9637 Pin III/5 and

temperature sensor plug Pin 1

0 - 5 Ω

⇒ Step 3

Repair wiring harness

→ End

3 Check wiring from DME

control module to temperature

sensor for short to

ground

♦ Connect special tool 9637 to

wiring harness (DME control

module plug)

♦ Remove plug connection of temperature

sensor

♦ Measure resistance between Pin

III/5 and ground

∞ Ω

⇒ Step 4

Repair wiring harness

→ End

4 Replace DME control module ⇒ Step 5

5 Perform adaptation ♦ Switch on the ignition

♦ Wait one minute

♦ Do not press the accelerator

♦ Switch off the ignition for at

least 10 seconds

♦ Read out the fault memory

→ End

2. 45-30 Fault code 4460

Pressure sensor

Diagnostic conditions

• Pressure sensor actual value is evaluated and displays an

implausible value

Possible cause of fault

♦ Short circuit to ground/voltage or open circuit in circuit to control

module terminals 25, 26 and 42

♦ Plug connection on stop light switch faulty

♦ Adjustment of the stop light switch not OK

♦ Wiring/ plug connection faulty

♦ Pressure sensor faulty (replace hydraulic unit)

Affected terminals

Terminals 25, 26 and 42

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Visual inspection ♦ Check the pressure sensor plug

for damage and corrosion

⇒ Step 2 Repair pressure sensor

plug

2 Check supply voltage of

the pressure sensor for

short circuit to ground/

open circuit

♦ Switch off ignition

♦ Pull off pressure sensor plug

♦ Switch on ignition

♦ Measure voltage between pin 3

of pressure sensor plug and

ground

approx. 5 V

⇒ Step 3

♦ Display 0 V:

Short circuit to

ground/open circuit

in circuit between

PSM control module

plug pin 42 and

pressure sensor

plug pin 3

♦ Display > 11 V

Short circuit to voltage

between PSM

control module plug

pin 42 and pin 3 of

the booster pump

pressure sensor

plug, or PSM contol

module faulty

→ End

Nice one JP.

now all you have to do is get it into Alphabetical order and have it put into the DIY section as common faults/problems.

Then when ever some one wants to add to the list with a new defect/problem you could edit it and put the defect and potential repair in the list as well. In time we would have a comprehensive quick guide.

Frank. :thankyou:

Hi guys, fixed the issue over the weekend!. I did verify all fuses, none of them were blown. I had to connect and disconnect the 3 colored connectors several time and finally everything came back OK. All error codes went away. Probably a loose connection.

Thanks all for your help.

:) Great News.

:welcome:

Firstly I would do 2 things.

1. Check all the fuses, you might have blown one.

2. Disconnect the battery and leave for 10 minutes, reconnect and see if the fault has cleared. Just about all the dash instruments and alarms are controlled directly by the DME talking to the dash in computer speak and not the old fashioned analogue signal. perhaps the dME has to find the data link again.

Just a stab in the dark but it cant do any harm. Make sure you have your radio code.

Frank

Richard you are correct... you can not buy just the rod.

Try talking to Vince at CR Turbos about a new actuator, they rebuilt my turbos and replaced the actuators, and are doing some hybrid work on mine atm: http://www.crturbos.co.uk/

Tell him Frank gave you the contact address/number and see if he will give you a wee bit of discount. You never know.lol

Frank

And if all that sounds very complicated , it just so happens that if you count the number of threads coming out the back of the good turbo actuator arm adjustment nut ( or measure the length sticking out) its the near enough same measurement for the other as well.

Don't get too hung up on balancing at this stage, its possible to get 95% there without all the special tools. My passenger side waste gate has seized and the rod had corroded through. There was no waste gate control on the passenger side turbo and the drivers side turbo took up all the control. I still had my flash boost of 0.9 bar and thinking about it my waste gate must have been seized for many many months.

If your rod is a mm or so out it will make very little difference to the running of the car. The N75 valve controls the amount of boost. If your slightly out on one turbo it will still keep full control of boost.You only need to worry if there is a significant difference / in balance between actuators. Such as I had with a seized waste gate. The Turbo with the seized waste gate does most of the work, whilst the good waste gate will be open more to compensate, hence does less work.

Remember, the turbos do not only supply their respective sides, both turbo outputs are mixed in the y pipe, so even if the turbo you set up is marginally out it doesn't mean that side of cylinders will be getting more or less boost than the other bank.

By measuring your good arm length and using that figure will have almost no imbalance and hence both turbos will be working at about the same rate.

Then you can get them checked and set up correctly at your leisure.

MORE IMPORTANTLY

If I were you I would check to see that you don't have a seized waste gate as well, its quite common. You can have the turbine housing repaired so don't think you have to get a new turbo.

ps, what I'm trying to say as professionally as i can is you wont do any harm short term running you car with a marginal actuator imbalance.

Subscribed

Try carrying out a throttle valve adaptation. Disconnect the battery, leave for 10 minutes then reconnect. Switch on ignition to position 2 , don't start and touch anything at all for at least 10 seconds. Turn off the ignition remove key. Then start car as normal. That will take the throttle through all its movements. Hopefully if there is dirt or a sticking patch it will clean up.

Its worth a try before doing anything else.

:welcome: to the fold by the way. :thumbup:

Hi,

I just had my 2002 tt replaced one of its pre-cat O2 sensors a few weeks ago, but the same fault occurs (engine stalled on low rpm), so the mechanic thought the newly-installed one was defective and put in another new one. After the replacement, he ran the diagnostic, it showed fine, but after a while, it showed near zero volt (where the other sensor was showing about 0.4~5v). He ruled out pressure valve and MAF as potential problems; he also checked out the signaling wires, which seemed to be fine also. Since the sensor is connected to the DME, which he thought might be the problem... It's a costly replacement that I don't want to go through. Anyone who can give me some ideas is very much appreciated...

I was told you can't just buy a used DME and make it work. Its memory needs to be wiped clean and this can only be done by Porsche... Is this true? If it becomes necessary to replace DME, that are the alternatives than buying a new one from Porsche?

Thanks guys.

D.

firstly, what are ALL the codes that he is reading out. Please list them.

Long long before buying a new DME you should have continuity testing of the O2 connectors/wires to the DME plug.

Really it needs to be put on a PST2 or Durametric.

Lets see the codes first.

hi!

I'm having some problems with my 996 Turbo 2001..

To make a long story short:

One day the alarm went of by it self, couldn't turn it off with my key, so had to unlock the car with my key, and turn the ignition to second position. this turned it of..

after this the car would not start.. so removed the cable from the battery, and tried after 20 minutes.. when the power was back on, all the instruments/lights on the dash turnd it self on, airbag failure ++++ like the key was at position two (except the airbagfailure, I don't get this on stage 2 when normal), but the key was not in the ignition.

After som time , I got the car going, so went for a drive, and no problems.

When I came back, the car would not stop, even if the key was removed from the ignition.. so I pluged the battery off..

Next time the power was reconnected, all the warning lights on the dash turned on, ad the spoiler went up, airbag failure++, I also heard a lot of relay clicking all over the car..

After some time the car started, don't know why..

the process above has been repeated many times the last days witout a fix...

after a quick google, I decided to replace the ignition switch.. so went to my local audi dealer and got one..

replaced it, and everything was back to normal..

after about 5 hours yesterday, I checked my car again.. the car was locked with alarm on, BUT all dash light turned on again, just like the key was on stage two in the ignition... so back at square one

The reason for me trying to fix it myself is that it will take 4 weeks before a Porsche dealer has free time to fix my car..

latest update:

Went to a Porsche dealer to day and bought a new switch with housing (part # 996 347 017 07)...

Moved the key cylinder over from the old one.. but still the car won't work..

when i connect the ground cable after replacing the houseing unit, all the warninglights go on (including airbag failure on screen), when I turn the key to ignition on, airbag fail goes away, fulpump etc make normal noice, but the car won't start.. it's 100% dead when turning the key over to crank the engine..

also tried an extra ground cable form the battery to the chassie, and a different battery.. (the one that's there is a 72 amp, i tried with a 62 amp).

I also did a mesuarment on the ignition cable connector.. I've got ground on the black/yellow cable all the time(on the right in picture), but no ground on the black one (on the left in picture), I get ground on both when ignition is turned on..

Is this correct??? (google pic, so sorry for bad quality..)

Up front: Thanx for all the help I can get, I don't understand what the &%/#")=¤ is going on..

Hope some of you smart guys can help, because I don't have a clue after the doing all of the above...

---

Kenneth

NORWAY

Hi Kenneth,

There is alot going on there.

I am a little confused, how many times have you changed the ignition switch. It would appear reading your post you have done it twice??????

I know you have changed batteries, but are you sure:

1. The cars battery is charged !

2. The 2nd battery you tried was charged !

3. The car is is charging the battery! When the battery goes flat all sorts of problems occur with these cars.

I don't understand why the car would not turn off, but more worrying is you turned it off by disconnecting the battery. Never ever disconnect the battery when the car is running or damage to the cars control units can occur. If you have to stop the car like that again pull the fuel pump fuse out.

When reconnecting the battery, you can get all sorts of dash lights, so long as they all go out once the car runs then its normal.

Firstly, I would check the car is charging the battery, you have changed the ignition so that cant be at fault.

Let us all know what voltage you are getting at the battery when the engine is off and when running.

Frank

Hi,

I'm having a strange brake problem and was wondering if anyone could shed some light. When I first start the car in the morning and reverse out of the garage the brakes are almost nonexistent and I have to push down quite forcefully to keep from moving. After I get going though, the brakes seem to get better and the force required to stop the car becomes less. I have bled the system and checked the vacuum hoses for and leaks. I'm thinking that maybe the brake booster may be the culprit. Has anyone had any similar issues?

Thanks,

Jay

Interestingly, yes I have had to a lesser extent a similar thing . I put it down to the servo building up vacuum.

If I remember correctly it's an exclamation mark that blinks "!" I may be wrong on that.

But there is a light that will blink for either PSM or TC

Yes PSM will effect power delivery. If PSM cant control the rear wheels when accelerating from a rest it will intervene the throttle angle to reduce the power. Like lifting your foot off the accelerator but much quicker. So the car will be dramatically slow. Attempting to do 0-60 in the rain is a bit foolish TBH , that's what the PSM is for, to control wheel spin. It not only corrects for driver error drift, skids. If you turn off the PSM then PSM will not intervene with power delivery and you will spin the rear wheels. PSM is still active in the back ground for extreme situations such as emergency lane changing but it will not control traction loss when accelerating. So if you want to do Donuts and drift the car out of bends, turn off the PSM.lol

Hello,

I just finish road testing the car after the fuel pump hose fix, I took the pump out and effectively how jpflip and all other advice me was the small black hose loop, I cut the metal clamps, found a similar 5/16 fuel hose u-shape almost similar to the defective one,( I have this hose from a 1998 Yamaha Road Start when I made some fuel system modifications and was in my tool box for years, with the clamps), well I put back this yamaha u-shape fuel hose which fit very tight, put the rest back, start the car and bingo, engine working better than before. i just hope that the made in japan hose hold at least for a while until I find right one. Thank you very much to All for the fast and effective advise provide here.

Now the radio (original Becker) do not work. Should be because I disconnect the battery ground cable for doing the fuel pump job. Well I can live with that, after all I was planing to replace for a better ipod friendly unit, do you have any preference regarding this topic. Thanks.

Very good job pala996tt ! For your radio you probably need your radio code to get it back to life. You can get help from the amazing Loren : Lost radio code....

:thumbup:

Hello All and Thanks for the responses and advices,

this is what I did so far:

-I have an old a/c R-12 gauges that fit the fuel pressure port in the fuel filter,and installed it there for reading,when I turn the ignition switch on, the fuel pressure reach only 10 psi, them I press the clutch pedal for cranking, the engine start for one or two second and dies, but during this cycle the fuel pressure never raise above 10 psi.

All this behavior indicates a fuel pump failure, but my question is: If before for several days the air bag warning light stays on unattended, will this condition trigger any engine protection mode that may force this low fuel pressure reading.

Thanks for your help gentleman.

will this condition trigger any engine protection mode that may force this low fuel pressure reading.

No, try and get a Durametric code for the air bag fault.

AS to your low fuel pressure JP will have nailed it on the head,ie split fuel line.

Simple question. Seeing as how both DVs begin and terminate with single hoses (the F and Y), why are there two of them? If anyone knows, it would help me stop wondering about a completely useless issue!

Have you ever tried to change your DV's. Reading your other post you have so you will know there isn't much room in there so 2 smaller DV's will fit where a larger one wont.

Lets face it you have 2 Turbos that produce quite a lot of flow that needs to be recirculated when the throttle is released.

Does anyone have a bleed procedure that does not involve vacuum system and works?

Are there non-Porsche branded coolants that are a quality substitute?

Should I replace the upper and lower hoses when replacing the radiator?

How do I "safety wire" the house clips?

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Does anyone have a bleed procedure that does not involve vacuum system and works: Yes, lift the bypass valve lever near the filler cap, leave the cap off , rev the engine to 4k and hold for 30 seconds and release the throttle, the air will come out in a big woosh and water as well so don't have your head over the bottle. Check level and do procedure again then check level. Replace the cap, keep the bypass open and drive the car. Closed the bypass after a few hours driving. Keep checking your levels regularly.

Are there non-Porsche branded coolants that are a quality substitute? Yes, but why take the risk, you will loose about 4 lts of coolant replacing 1 rad. at 50:50 that's only 2 lts of Porsche Liquid Gold anti-freeze.

Should I replace the upper and lower hoses when replacing the radiator?; if you have the cash to spare, nothing is wasted by changing for new, but unless you feel its damaged or going brittle personally I wouldn't. These cars are expensive enought to run!

How do I "safety wire" the house ( presume you mean Hose) clips?: You don't need to, if Porsche thought it necessary they would have done it already.

Hope that helps a little.

May be you got a fuel pump failure. On the fuel pump inside the tank there is a hose in a loop that rupture in many cases.... Look at those four links and especially the one made by Pumalex. Very good info there....

Fuel pump. Fuel pump 2, Fuel pump 3, fuel pump 4

If you got access to a fuel pressure gauge you can do the pressure test at the port besides the fuel filter in the engine compartment. Target 3.3 bar +- .2 ( 43.5 +- 3 psi)

I agree with JP possible fuel pump internal pipe failure.

No, not if its a very light coating. With all the best will in the world , turbos don't seal all the oil and some does get blown bye.If you get chance take an IC off and check how dirty they are inside. Clean out with solvent if needs be. Just makes them a little more efficient.

but to answer your question again, we all get some oil in the inlet pipes on out turbos. If the car starts to smoke then that is a problem. Its always a judgment call TBH. If the oil is pooling deep in the corners and bends of the pipe, perhaps the seals are a little more worn than one would like. But don't worry too much if its light.

Excellent outcome well done. :drive: