Sunnyside

What did you set the plug gaps too. ??

Cyl 6 is passenger side farthest from the front bumper correct?

Correct.

I'm confused though :( This diagram shows me something different...

Got it from pelican parts website...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_static_timing/911_static_timing.htm

This is Correct.

Well here is some good news for you then......, there is a guy on 6speed that has sourced all the seals required and bearings as well.

Have a search and I'm sure you will find the post. I will have a look now as well.If i find it i will past it on here.

Frank

I'm sure its all in here: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/216574-whats-your-tippy-tip-tronic.html

And: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/193207-tiptronic-information-thread.html

Join 6speed and ask him his user name is Adam699

Wow! That's a nice job. I especially love the job you did with the leather....Swizol, noted with thanks!

I have to second that about the leather and also the door cards......Swizol double noted :clapping:

Hi Frank,

From your wiring diagram, it has an Alarm Contact BN/BU (brown/blue) wire going to ground. I read on the forum that you are supposed to make sure this is no longer grounded by taping it up. I was thinking this is still grounded on my car; therefore, I am getting fault code 54 radio receiver defective and/or code 33 interior sensor faulty. This is the wire that I can not find on my 2004 996TT. JSBear’s showed me pictures of his 2002 996TT having a tab on the driver side of the plastic frame where the radio is. This is where the alarm wire spade connector connects to. However, I do not have it on my 2004 so wondering if it is some where else that I need to make sure it is not grounded.

C_Fooo

I have PCM, I wonder if that is different. My car is an October 2002 car so its a 2003 model. I definitely didn't do anything with wires when I removed the PCM for repair.??

Apart from that sorry I cant be any more help.

Frank

Hi Frank,

I am not experiencing any issues after I had the radio antenna connected properly but I also haven't tried to turn everything on to check if everything is working or not. A friend offered to use his Durametric tool on my car and that is when I found all those faults. I thought at least the radio sensor fault will be easy to fix if all I needed was to make sure some wire (brown/blue wire that I can not find on my 2004 996TT) is not connected and maybe it will make some of the other faults go to away.

If the faults will not cause the car to deteriorate faster, I guess I can live with the faults.

C_Fooo

I sent my PCM away , as the card reader failed, i drove the car for 3 weeks without the PCM . My 996tt 1s October 2002. I dont remember this wire your talking about. Mind you at the time I didn't have a Durametric so I wouldn't have known there were any faults. In Fact for the 3 weeks, if I didn't look at the hole left by the PCM I wouldn't have known it was missing. :)

The attachment is a snippet from the wiring diagram. Hope it helps a little bit

Frank

Doc2.doc

Sorry for asking, but are you getting problems with the car or did you find the faults by accident after putting the Durametric on the car. For eg does the alarm keep going off,are you getting any external indication that the car has faults.

What made you put the Durametric on in the first place.

Sometimes these cars can make your life a misery trying to get them perfect. Its sometime better just to accept there not perfect.

Sorry for asking, I do mean well and I'm not having a go I assure you :)

Frank

Car is 2004 996 Turbo Cabriolet with Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT radio.

Durametric Diagnostic Tool for Porsche Version 5.1.4.0 (Thanks for JSBear to read the codes with his Durametric tool for me)

Alarm fault codes:

33 Interior sensor faulty

25 W lead

54 Radio receiver defective

Instrument Cluster 9114 PCM control unit fault

I am trying to fix the above problems. I read on the forum that there is suppose to have an alarm sensor that is blue/brown wire but I cant find any blue/brown wire other than one go to the defogger. Am I supposed to have this blue/brown wire for a 2004? If not, what can cause the above faults?

Any suggestions on what the real problem can be or how to fix would be appreciated.

C_Fooo

Did you clear the faults using Durametric and try reading the faults again. Some times these type of faults are temporary. The modules only has to sense a glitch to log a fault. I keep getting the odd alarm fault like yours. Sometimes a micro switch will be a bit slow to operate . The mirror motor on my passenger side shows a fault even though it works ok.Once a fault has been logged it will not clear its self, you will have to do that. Untill you do, you wont know if you really have any faults ata ll to worry about.

So I wouldn't go spending too much time tracing the faults you have listed until you know for sure they are hard faults and not just glitches.

Frank

Get the car on Durametrics if you can.

But importantly change the Plugs. Sounds like they dont like the higher boost. Gap could be well worn, which could explain your problem.

Frank

I have a durametrics cable. Do I plug it in the ODB port and the computer while I drive the car??? Sorry I am pretty new to this.

Hi,

I assume its a genuine Durametrics cable, so you should have the disc and loaded it onto your lap top.

So yes, open up Durametrics, enable logging, shut down Durametrics and then re-open again.

Take the car for a run do pulls from idle in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. You should really take to car to the red line but I know that would mean exceeding the speed limit in 3rd by a long way so do what you are comfortable and ultimately safe doing.

Without taking the car for a runThings that could show up in codes are cylinder misfire, lambda problem codes etc, you wont have to drive it to find them they will already be logged in the computer from your previous drive/problem.

Things you could log driving ( with a passenger as a helper) are boost pressure, revs, lambda for bank 1 & 2, ignition angle, IAT's, engine load.

Post up any codes you have.

Frank.

ps I must say to be fair to the tuner have you talked to them about the problem??

No Cel, code and check engine light what so ever. I just thought that if the plugs were bad, there would be some kind of code pop up.

I did talk to the tuner, the person that's familar with the matter was not available(late Friday afternoon) This thread is not about to bring any negative impact to their reputation. I just simply hope to fix the porblem ASAP. Also, hope that future customers would know what to do when these kind of problems arise.

From what I have learned so far about these cars, if the plugs are worn, there is very rarely cel codes unless the misfire is bad enough for the ecu to register it. I still think plugs could be the problem. But know doubt you will post the outcome when you find out.

Frank

Frank

Get the car on Durametrics if you can.

But importantly change the Plugs. Sounds like they dont like the higher boost. Gap could be well worn, which could explain your problem.

Frank

I have a durametrics cable. Do I plug it in the ODB port and the computer while I drive the car??? Sorry I am pretty new to this.

Hi,

I assume its a genuine Durametrics cable, so you should have the disc and loaded it onto your lap top.

So yes, open up Durametrics, enable logging, shut down Durametrics and then re-open again.

Take the car for a run do pulls from idle in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. You should really take to car to the red line but I know that would mean exceeding the speed limit in 3rd by a long way so do what you are comfortable and ultimately safe doing.

Without taking the car for a runThings that could show up in codes are cylinder misfire, lambda problem codes etc, you wont have to drive it to find them they will already be logged in the computer from your previous drive/problem.

Things you could log driving ( with a passenger as a helper) are boost pressure, revs, lambda for bank 1 & 2, ignition angle, IAT's, engine load.

Post up any codes you have.

Frank.

ps I must say to be fair to the tuner have you talked to them about the problem??

Get the car on Durametrics if you can.

But importantly change the Plugs. Sounds like they dont like the higher boost. Gap could be well worn, which could explain your problem.

Frank

So, are you guys saying that when the alternator diode pack or regulator fails, the dash mounted charge light does NOT illuminate indicating a faulty charging circuit ??

Usually this warning light illuminates when the charge voltage is less than the battery voltage.....which is exactly whats happening.

Or am I missing something?

Exactly, thats why its a pain in the ar*e fault when you first get it. In-fact , because the regulator will work for a while whilst the engine and alternator are cold it makes diagnosis very hard. But rest assured,when the diode pack fails you dont get the red charge light on the dash.

Frank

I tell you now , it will more than likely be the diode pack on the alternator( Rectifier). Very common fault. Reads good voltage when starting the engine from cold, but slowly as you drive, normally 30 minutes< the voltage drops.

Check the voltage when the engine is warm. Cold might be 13.5 but as it warms could drop as low as 10 V. Thats when the world falls apart and all the alarms come on.

Frank

First, thanks to everyone who helped me figure out the belt tensioner.

I still have the airbox off and was wondering if it is really worth installing a K&N air filter? K&N claims all kinds of good things as a result of fitting one of their filters. Does anyone have any practical experience? Does it really make any difference in performance?

Depends on what your running and power levels.

Standard 996tt has a good OEM filter. Once you start to tune then it is always recommended to put a more "free flowing " filter on. I have been using K&N filters since 1983. Firstly on my Hillman Hunter Holbay and every car since!!

They do make a difference, but IMO only if the car has been tuned to make use of the extra air flow.

Frank

Do I understand it correctly,when you say engine went out you mean it stopped on its own. So your boss did not switch it off??

If you have no further problems I would suggest all that happened is that the car stalled ( the engine stopped) This would bring up all the dash lights and alarms.

The usual failure is the oil pressure sender to the gauge. When this fails the car brings up an alarm telling you its failed and to take it to the workshop.

If your boss has only stalled the car then there is no problems at all.

If your boss got a message saying there is a problem with the sender/gauge, then this is not such a big thing at all.

Just get it changed.

The main thing is if the car is running with good oil pressure at the moment then there is nothing to panic about.

Good luck.

Tell us all how you get on.

Frank

Hi, Could you please explain again: started with an apparent drop in oil pressure (I was not driving, engine went out, oil pressure warning on.

What is an apparent drop in Oil pressure. Did the oil pressure drop off when you were driving the car? Or was it at Idle?? What do you mean "Engine went out"??

How much pressure did the car loose, at what revs, does it start, does the oil light still stay on all the time???

Have you checked your oil level in the car, have you checked the oil pressure sender has not failed???

As to the little bit of oil on your finger, I wish mine was so clean. Its an engine, they leak a little bit. A leak becomes a problem when it drips, what you are showing from the picture is merely a weep. IMO dont worry.

If the head gaskit had blown normally, the oil would be in your coolant or would be getting into the cylinders so it would smoke!!

Frank :unsure:

I have a 01 996TT with about 35K miles and I noticed a rattle sound from the muffler area. I traced this to the shields that are attached to the muffler. Three of the attachment points that appear (not sure) to be welded to the muffler have detached. The result is that one of the shields rattles when starting to move from a standstill.

Has anyone had this happen to their cars and found a suitable fix to the problem? I would also appreciate any comments regarding how the shields are actually attached to the muffler – I could not get a good view of the attachment as I didn't want to try to remove the shield since the hex head bolts are very rusty.

Hi,

They are held on with set screws and captive nuts. The captive nuts are held in place with clips. The shields are not welded on.

If you want to replace the screws you will have to remove the whole exhaust. They are very prone to corrosion even thought they are stainless!! Typical Porsche $hit fixings. As you will have found out already even the nuts on the Turbo holding the full exhaust /silencer will be very badly corroded.

Its a pain job to do , so it depends on how bad the rattle is.

If you go to the trouble of removing the exhaust why not think about fitting a sports exhaust??

Frank

Hi Keith,

Firstly, get the car running and go for a long drive 40 mins to an hour. Give it a good run.

Check the voltage on the dash to start and keep an eye on it. I suspect your alternator voltage rectifier is playing up. Very common fault and if the alternator isn't hot it will look absolutely fine...........until it gets hot. Then the voltage will very slowly start to drop on the dash. May get as low as 10.5V. This is a sure sign the V reg is on its way out. Putting it on a tester machine will not show this defect until the alternator has got hot.

Give it a try.

As to 0.9 amps thats not bad at all, do you have a tracker. After 5 or so days the car will shut down most electrical systems it can automatically. Its a Hibernation mode. So .9 amps doesn't sound too bad considering its not In Hibernation.

Frank

Whistling was coming from the steering pump due to low level. Transfer of fluid from steering reservoir to clutch reservoir is due to a faulty slave. But I don't see why the spoiler can be part of your problem. I think it is a complete different story...

Hi JP

Yes your right, Spoiler is completely different system. Whats the problem with it??

Frank

BUMP

As I wouldn't mind finding out a bit more about checking variocam solenoids. I have a Durametric, but what should you see with Durametric for faulty variocam solenoids as opposed to good ones.

Frank

Hello Frank! If you use "drive link" you can select any of these solenoids (4 total) and in idle you should see the engine rumbling when one of the solenoid is selected. If there is no change in RPM either while selecting the valve opening solenoids or the cam advance solenoids, then you know one of the solenoid is not working.... This is the Durametric version 5 but I also saw it in version 6...

Hi JP

So its just a case of select the desired valve and if its working the engine should change rpm's/rumble. I was going to have a play last week but decided not to experiment with any of the drive links I'm not sure about.

Thats great, thanks mate.

Frank

BUMP

As I wouldn't mind finding out a bit more about checking variocam solenoids. I have a Durametric, but what should you see with Durametric for faulty variocam solenoids as opposed to good ones.

Frank

You wont get any codes, it will save you quite a lot of weight and the car will be quicker. You could also fit the larger GT2 Fuel Tank .However I think you will miss the added safety of the 4x4 and you definitely will notice it missing especially in the wet. Should you have an accident attributable to loss of traction your insurance company will laugh at you if you try to make a claim.

You dont even have to fit stub axles as you can remove the drive shafts and leave the CV casing as they are. They make great Stub axles.

But think carefully about removing the diff and shafts and centre VC, its a lot of work just to find you loved the 4x4 set up.

Frank

I replaced the alternator and now everything is fine. Now I have a non working alternator in my garage that I wouldn't mind bringing back to life.. How do you determine if the diode pack has failed?

As JP says, just change it and you will have a good alternator again. Always good for a spare. I didn't keep mine as there was a surcharge on the new one which I got back when I returned the old one.

Frank

To piggyback on this thread, I had a suddenly dead battery last week. I bought a new replacement, installed it and noticed the voltage needle was dropping slowly immediately upon starting the car. Put a volt meter on it and confirmed it was losing juice, down below 12V before I shut it down. After some discussion on another forum I decided it was probably the alternator. I ordered one online and took the old one out this weekend. I took it to an auto parts store to have it tested and it passed. There was another thread that suggested it might be the clutch pulley, which might initially work but fail when the unit heats up, but my battery is losing juice when just started.

What should I check into next?

Hi mate,

Trust me on this, I am an Electrician and it took me ages to work it out. I had the AA out who put a tester on and it was found to be ok. The alternator will work fine on start up but when it heats up it will start to slowly fail. Taking it off and putting it on a test bench will show nothing as the alternator has to get hot as the engine warms.

It is most likely the diode pack . Thats the classic symptom .

Frank

How do they get around using main items like DME & control units. They all have to be coded into another car. you need the codes from the IPAS system. I thought it was to make things hard to sell on??

Frank