Sunnyside

Hmm... seems like there would be a copyright issue with Porsche programs. But that would be there issue.

If you take a module out of the MOST bus then you just do a scan of all the modules to reset the master.

I'm not sure what happens on the CAN bus because those are all required as far as I know. You can't remove ABS without an error because there is no "No ABS" option.

At some point you would need to modify the program(s) to support those sorts of things or go with a Cup Car program, or 3rd party custom program.

Thanks Loren,

I will try and catch up with you again on this subject after Christmas.

I hope you have a great Holiday and all the bestfor the New year.

What are your plans, going anywhere nice or just enjoy the holiday at home?

Frank.

The only three you really need are the Learning Code, the Immobiliser Code, and the DME programming code. With those, you can do all the programming you will ever need. I have the IPAS codes for mine, and have programmer new keys, and updated the DME fuel map without any problem.

I saw the Autologic kit a couple of years ago when it first came out, and was very impressed, but it is very expensive.

Hi both,

Thanks.

Loren, thats why I have posted , I am thinking of getting the above tester. Its a tier 1 diagnostic and will do everything PIWIS or pST2 will do.Thanks for the chart.Where is it from, and what is it. How would I get the data thats on it?

Richard, when you say you only need 3 codes , will they allow you to fit replacement modules, for eg ABS/PSM, Alarm, Dash/instruments,Tip,air con etc...

Thanks

Frank

Yes, I also think the Autologic is a great tester (although as Richard said) expensive.

How does the Autologic change the program in your DME? I would ask them for sure that it can do that.

Hi Loren, it can do more than just code units, you send of the exact details of the car and they will send you a bespoke tune which you can down load into the DME. It will do everything the porsche one will, and apparently a few more things that porsche didn't recon on untill after the PIWIS was developed.

How do you replace CAN/Bus modules in your car? Do you use the codes and what equipment do you use.

Frank

The only three you really need are the Learning Code, the Immobiliser Code, and the DME programming code. With those, you can do all the programming you will ever need. I have the IPAS codes for mine, and have programmer new keys, and updated the DME fuel map without any problem.

I saw the Autologic kit a couple of years ago when it first came out, and was very impressed, but it is very expensive.

Hi both,

Thanks.

Loren, thats why I have posted , I am thinking of getting the above tester. Its a tier 1 diagnostic and will do everything PIWIS or pST2 will do.Thanks for the chart.Where is it from, and what is it. How would I get tha data thats on it?

Richard, when you say you only need 3 codes , will they allow you to fit replacement modules, for eg ABS/PSM, Alarm, Dash/instruments,Tip,air con etc...

Thanks

Frank

Hi all,

I am thinking of buying an Autologic tier 1 diagnostic/test set.I want the ability to code any modules I may replace and keys , instruments etc etc. They are £8k + tax so not cheep. Has anyone any experience with IPAS codes.

I have spoken to Porsche UK and I know how to get hold of my cars IPAScodes but I know very little about them.

How many codes are there or the car, is it a different code for each control module or just one generic code for my car.

hope some ones knows some think about coding new/replacement modules using IPAS codes.

Thanks

Frank

ps

Merry Christmas and a Happy new year to all

Hi there

Due to a gearbox failure I'll have a rebuild next week. I thought based on the POSES information it would be great to improve the gearbox when it's opened anyway. I was thinking about longer gear ratios and an improvement of the synchroniser rings. Porsche in Switzerland says there is no differnce. I checked the PET catalogue and I also see no difference in part numbers for the synchro rings.

Does anybody know if there is wrong information in there?

Hi Fedmax,

Sorry to hear your box broke.

I too have heard there is no difference except an LSD in the GT2!

What was the nature of your failure. What broke etc... What sort of power mods are you running and do you know how much power you were putting through it.

Frank

Hi have a read of this, I hop it helps a little. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=48&t=871178&mid=0

Just noticed my Drivers side has started again, with this cold weather it shows up more. So I will have to do that next...again.

I will have a look for some more links, as I will have to go over it again for my sake as well.lol

Frank

Absolutly the Battery. Very common. Recharge and try again.

Frank

I have had this problem before and I believe it was the door open micro switch faulty. As you pull the handle up a micro switch opens the window and puts the light on. this normally only opens the window a fraction.

If both windows open all the way, it could very=well be the Alarm-Cl unit at fault.

Remove the 2 plugs and antenna wire and check all the little connections for corrosion.

The Alarm-Cl system on these cars is too complicated imo and as soon as my warranty can no longer be renewed ( 10 year old) I am going to do some Ba$tardisation of the system. It worries me that a simple fault in that control unit can effect so ,many other things.

I have worked out how the unit opens the windows, where the wires are in the conections. I know how to manuially open the windows, boot, bonet& fuel cap, without having the alarm-cl module fitted to the Car. Unfortunatly the imobiliser also goes through the same module so I cant run the car with out the module......but I am working on that one too.

Frank

I too have both versions, and version 6 even with the latest update is not that good. I put it down to my Lap Top being to slow. Some drive links actually all the drive links dont work and other functions cause my lap top to keep " Not Responding". The more I read about it the more it seems the latest version is not up to Parr. I have the professional Duramatric.

I found the best way to bleed the brakes is with "Gunsons Easy Bleed". It pressurises the system from the Hydraulic reservoir and all you do is crack open each nipple in turn.

Frank

Hello, Frank! There was a discussion on Renntrack about Durametric. Take a look Durametric . The multiple functions of version 6 are starting to work... But I am exactly like you, cannot run drive links, cannot register more than 2 datas....

Hi JP,

Thanks for the link. To be honest that now leaves me even more concerned. I was going to buy a Duel Core Lap Top to see if it mas my computer,but I think there are others with much better Laptops having the same problem. I have only managed to get 3 to 4 live data loggers running on version 6 before it freezes and other functions cause the programme to " Not Respond".

I have e-mailed Owen many many times and he is very helpful. But he keeps asking me yo send him logs, the problem is that there just is not enough data for him as the problem I have is " Not Responding ", so Durametric isn't logging.

Version 5 seems to work well so OK for now.

Durametric will come into its own id they develop the ability to code in new control module. Foe eg, new ABS unit, air con unit, Alarm-cl unit. At the moment, a dIY'r can replace the units but it has to go to an OPC to be re-coded.

Frank

I too have both versions, and version 6 even with the latest update is not that good. I put it down to my Lap Top being to slow. Some drive links actually all the drive links dont work and other functions cause my lap top to keep " Not Responding". The more I read about it the more it seems the latest version is not up to Parr. I have the professional Duramatric.

I found the best way to bleed the brakes is with "Gunsons Easy Bleed". It pressurises the system from the Hydraulic reservoir and all you do is crack open each nipple in turn.

Frank

Does anybody know if the OP fixed the problem. Why hasn't he given an update. Its like reading a novel to find the last chapter missing from the book :(

This is not the first time this sort of engine problem has occurred , it would be nice to nail a solution to it for future reference

Frank

hi...i got a problem with 911 turbo s 2005 !!when engine is cold it runs fine ..but when it gets hot it make a huge ratteling noise around 2400 rpm !! the noise is coming from the timing chain area (right side) is there any common problem that those engine has... i know that the early model has that problem but i dont know about this one... is there any part that i should be looking at closely.. engine has 30 000 miles.. thank you for your response.

note: i changed the tension er with no success thx!

This post has gone very quiet, so firstly I have bumped it.

Second you say you changed the tensioner, if you do nothing else please post how you did it. I recon it could make a good learning post. :wrench:

Lastly, what is the score with the noise??? :unsure:

Frank

Thats interesting stuff I am going to look into the Vauxhall cd as well. my 6tt is a 2003 model and the sat nav is just about useless.IMO

Hi Richard, haven't spoken for a while. How are you keeping.

Frank

Ok so with the tip you can not go more that 500-550whp first of all, if you want to go higher you must reinforce the gearbox.

Go with a 3" exhaust, check out Markski exhaust (911tuning.com)

And if i where in your place I would go with the K16/16g turbos and check the 997.2 intecoolers ;)

Hi Alex , hows it going. Iv'e not got anything to say on the subject, just thought I'd say hello.

Frank :)

Its a funny old thing, Ive only had my 996tt for 4 years and noticed the other night I only had one rear fog light. I was going to investigate the problem at a later date. Well, thanks.......thats that one sorted. I like that type of defect, there so easy to fix :renntech:

Frank.

Hi,

Mine has stopped turning down altogether when selecting reverse although memory seat and mirrors still work, and reverse lights.

I would also like to know what the possible cause is and how to fix.

Thanks

One check to make first.

Sometimes the gear selector switch pack fails, it stops the reverse parking sensor working ans also any other revers related feature. It took a while for me to associate all the faults to the one single action. Check your reversing light, reverse sensor and mirror dip at the same time.

I had to have a new switch pack, cost about £700 fitted. Ouch.....

Frank

Hi all,

Im in the market for a 964 Supercharger kit. Used or new. Any advice or help please.

Frank

Sorry for the topic change, but what is the spec on your car. Why the cage. Its good to see a car being used, ie dirty and not just a polish collector.

How do you find your TT in the snow, any traction problems. Do you feel the front wheels doing much.

If you would like to make this a PM no problems.

Sorry again for going off topic. :offtopic: :oops: I just had to ask seeing the great photos of your car.

Frank

:thankyou:

Sorry for being OT, I'll make it short... ;)

I first went for a chassis upgrade (H&R/Sportec), bucket seats (GT3), rollbar, 6-pts harnesses, steering wheel, etc. All that because I used to do a loooot of trackdays. Despite of that, the first clutch easily survived 217'000km. Then came the first power upgrade (Sportec 3, 540hp). Amazing! Later, after an engine failure (due to a bad design from Porsche, nothing to do with the upgrade), Sportec rebuilt the engine and found a bit more power (591hp, 823Nm). ohooooo! :)

Despite of that, I still drive the car under any conditions. Because of a broken ABS sensor, I even passed last winter with no ABS/PSM at all. And survived it! ;) Actually, I even went to ski holidays with it... And yes, on snow, you can feel the traction going to the front, no doubt. But since it's max 37-39% of the whole power that's sent there, the car's main character still remains rear-based.

So yeah, the car just passed 362'000km and bucket seats and rollcage are gone: I have another track toy and (most important!) became a dad 2 years ago, so needed some room for the baby seat... ;) But the 591hp are still here and still well in use!

Hi Pierre,

Thanks for the info.

I have just read it .

I restore Classic Split Screens on and off so I have been posting on a few VW site the last few days so took my eye off Renntech for a day or so :oops:

Back now though :renntech:

What Turbos do you have. K16's or bigger. I'm on 16's and chasing power. I think I have reached the limit for small Turbos.

Frank

go to k16/16g :P

Cool, Thanks.

Frank

Sorry for the topic change, but what is the spec on your car. Why the cage. Its good to see a car being used, ie dirty and not just a polish collector.

How do you find your TT in the snow, any traction problems. Do you feel the front wheels doing much.

If you would like to make this a PM no problems.

Sorry again for going off topic. :offtopic: :oops: I just had to ask seeing the great photos of your car.

Frank

:thankyou:

Sorry for being OT, I'll make it short... ;)

I first went for a chassis upgrade (H&R/Sportec), bucket seats (GT3), rollbar, 6-pts harnesses, steering wheel, etc. All that because I used to do a loooot of trackdays. Despite of that, the first clutch easily survived 217'000km. Then came the first power upgrade (Sportec 3, 540hp). Amazing! Later, after an engine failure (due to a bad design from Porsche, nothing to do with the upgrade), Sportec rebuilt the engine and found a bit more power (591hp, 823Nm). ohooooo! :)

Despite of that, I still drive the car under any conditions. Because of a broken ABS sensor, I even passed last winter with no ABS/PSM at all. And survived it! ;) Actually, I even went to ski holidays with it... And yes, on snow, you can feel the traction going to the front, no doubt. But since it's max 37-39% of the whole power that's sent there, the car's main character still remains rear-based.

So yeah, the car just passed 362'000km and bucket seats and rollcage are gone: I have another track toy and (most important!) became a dad 2 years ago, so needed some room for the baby seat... ;) But the 591hp are still here and still well in use!

Hi Pierre,

Thanks for the info.

I have just read it .

I restore Classic Split Screens on and off so I have been posting on a few VW site the last few days so took my eye off Renntech for a day or so :oops:

Back now though :renntech:

What Turbos do you have. K16's or bigger. I'm on 16's and chasing power. I think I have reached the limit for small Turbos.

Frank

Frank did you read the signature of Pierre? :D

He is really using that car in any conditions and everywhere!

With winter tires is ok but the roads in Switzerland are more that ok in the winter time :)

Hi Alex,

Uhmm, no I didn't. It always helps to read the small print :D

Cheers, :cheers:

Frank

I've had a 34cm Techart wheel for quite a while and I'm extremely pleased with with it. You'll find a pics or two here: http://www.swisscarsightings.com/indepth/pages/indepthporsche996turbo.html

Sorry for the topic change, but what is the spec on your car. Why the cage. Its good to see a car being used, ie dirty and not just a polish collector.

How do you find your TT in the snow, any traction problems. Do you feel the front wheels doing much.

If you would like to make this a PM no problems.

Sorry again for going off topic. :offtopic: :oops: I just had to ask seeing the great photos of your car.

Frank

:thankyou:

the biggest problem is the need for more power! :)

Too true Alex, too true. :thumbup:

Once you start modding.................there's no ending it. :drive:

Frank

You're not likely to scare me off, actually. The 996TT looks like it might just be the single best value in a Porsche for year-round use. Reliability that beats the normally-aspirated 996, price point that beats 964 Turbo and 993 Turbo, performance that beats anything but a 997 Turbo, all-wheel-drive and creature comforts that beat all prior cars, maintenance costs that beat all prior Turbos, etc. I think it may just be the car for me.

I am chasing a beautiful one now and have a PPI set up for next week, done by a dealership so I assume they know to look for radiator leaks, broken front splitter, over-rev history, damage near jacking points, and other common issues. If I don't get this one, based on the last guitar I bought (which took a little over 2 years and purchases of another great guitar, two amplifiers, and at least $5,000 in other gear between the time I missed a deal on the model I didn't realize I was after and the time I got the deal I wanted), I will probably be chasing Turbos for the next five years or more. And that's okay - no sense buying a second-rate version of my dream car.

Meanwhile, I am going to help a friend put a stereo in his 944 this evening and will grab his latest Excellence Magazine to read the article wvicary mentioned above. I already reviewed the links pierre posted this morning. Good information all around, and very appreciated. Thank you. I'm excited to join your elite club. Then I just need to get an older 911 as a summer/Sunday driver, right?

IMO a996tt is all the sports car you are going to need.lol

If you have a large family then a family saloon or hatch might be required, but as to an older 911 for Summer/Sunday driver, no, the 996tt will tick all the boxes and is as good in the Summer as it is in the winter.

Frank :D

When looking at a 996tt there are some common areas to look at.

1. Check all the discs for corrosion, especially the inner edges.

2. Check all the nuts to the exhaust and Turbo are there and not corroded away.

3. Check all 3 Rads for leaks and swelling.

4. Check the AC pipes near the drivers side jacking points have not been crushed by a trolley jack, if so check for staining caused by leaks and also check the AC is really cold.

5. Check the Glove box handle is in one piece as they are prone to break.

6. Have the ecu read and make sure the engine has no type 2 over revs.

There are more but I dont want to scare you off, as a 996tt is a good choice of super car. I hope you get one.

Frank

Hi Pierre,

360,000km excellent and great to hear about. How many of thoses miles have yo put on the car?

Frank