Sunnyside

Thanks for all the advice. I now am going to change my alternator.

cheers

Frank :thankyou:

Frank, I understand well that everyone has a difference economic situation and that we all can't spend cash the way we would like. However, ignoring an oil or "other" leak could well lead to more expensive issues long term...

This is "my world"...

I do as much as I can myself to offset some of those expensive costs...

Zero leaks is the only acceptable answer, period. Didn't come from the factory with "leaks" so in my book, zero leaks are the only answer...

Mike

Hi Mike, agreed I not saying ignore a leak if it is a dripper but clean up the area and asses how bad it is. An oily stain that might take 10 to 20k to develop is nothing major.If an owner has the ready cash to spend on a car to keep it A1 show room condition all well and good. But if not and the car is safe and the staining has no real detriment to the car there's no harm done. Here in Scotland it is hard to see any oil staining from the salt corrosion. That has a much bigger impact. So I suppose there is no right or wrong just an amount in £££ $$$ that an individual can justify spending.

Frank. :)

Your welcome.

PLease keep us informed how you got on.

Frank :thumbup:

Having looked around I agree that it could be the same issue although mine have never opened as I am driving - or at least not yet! I think that I will ask a friend at my local opc to hook it up asap next week to see if they can see anything - so far it has not dropped the windows when the car is locked and luckily it is kept in the garage when I am not using it but my confidence is starting to drop as they seem to lower themselves randomly so next time it is locked I may come back to find them down!

Also did your interior lights come on when they lowered as mine do?

Thanks, Jon

Hi Jon,

I dont remember, the interior light did come on and stay on but I'm not sure when it did it, so I cant really help there. Pull the codes, I dont think disconnecting the battery is going to help but.... that's just my view. Why not try Lorens advice, if it works champion. If not still check the codes and go from there. I am not too sure if you will loose all the codes for the alarm after you disconnect. I say this because a Durametric will not reset " alarm " codes just read them I know I have one. My alarm had a sensor voltage failure at some point and I cant re set it. I have put a new battery on and it still wont reset but the sensor is now working. So i presume you might not loose all the alarm codes stored so far.

This is another one of those post that should be stored for future "Just in Case" so to speak.

Frank :)

Yes I have had the same problem. Mine would drop when driving, when locking or even just walking away form the car. Started after a long spell of bad weather. Porsche Glasgow diagnosed faulty alarm module, damp in connectors.Replaced unit.

Frank

thanks frank, not sure if this is same or not - they always drop when I start the car now and I cannot control them until they are all the way down.... I have also noticed that when I put the key in the ignition and turn it on the cluster briefly says key not removed from ignition - odd as I do not remember this happening prior to replacing the battery?

It sounds the same. Always when starting but also driving around and also I would find the window or windows (could be both or just one) open in the morning or when I came back for shopping in the car park.

Can you pull the code from the DME . Do you know anybody with a Durametric?? Or take the car to your garage. If your windows open whilst left unattended I dont think your insurance will cover you!! I was more worried about the rain as I live in Loch Lomond Scotland :lol:

Sorry to hear this. :cursing:

Its the centre VC that will have taken the most of a beating. If the fluid has overheated then the VC will be compromised even defective. In that case you will have no torque drive to the front wheels. You might not even notice but the car will not benefit from the front wheel drive advantage. Might even feel a little quicker? Get you dealer to do a torque split check to the front diff through the centre VC. Its not hard to do.

Frank

Couple of things here...

First, no "leaks" are acceptable, ever. Get them addressed.

Second, there are some expansion plugs in the motor... They leak coolant. That coolant mixes with grime and dirt, and looks a lot, like oil... Don't assume it's oil unless it is wet enough to tell the difference.

Previous owner had my car into the shop a number of times over those plugs leaking, and coolant leaks... After I'd bought the car from the dealership I met the previous owner and he'd told me that they advised him to sell the car due to the leaks... Funny thing is, they fixed all of them, and I've not a had a single issue with ANY leaks in 3+ years of hard tracking and driving on the street.

Also, My car has never used any oil between changes... During track season I typically see an oil change every other track weekend, but from the fall until the spring I don't change the oil at all and still don't see any oil consumption. I put on several thousand miles per year on the car, too!

Mike

Hi Mike ,

No disrespect intended but the statement (no "leaks" are acceptable, ever. Get them addressed.) There is a difference in leaks and an recurring oily patch. Good news if you have a Warranty but some people dont. I dont know what Job you have but be assured if my local Porsche Garage wanted to remove the engine to cure a small oil stain patch that took 20,000 miles to develop I know where I would tell them to go.

In an ideal world the statement( no "leaks" are acceptable, ever. Get them addressed.)would be true.

Before atomicveilside forks out loads of dosh getting an almost non existent oil patch repaired all he has to do is follow the advise from most of us on this site and assess it himself a bit more before paying somebody else to. For sure any PG / Indy will want to fix it but they will want you to pay for it.

Get a British 1950's motor cycle, then worry about Oil Leaks. :rolleyes:

However if atomicveilside oil leak is significant then your advice is very good as a true oil leak that is dripping or any other type of coolant leak is not a good thing.

Frank

I have staining like that under my 996tt 2002 also. Is it a real leak or just a very small amount of oil over a very long period of time that you have. When is a leak not really a leak??? Put a tray under the car as soon as you stop and see if there are any spots on it. Clean the area thoroughly and keep an eye on it.

I dont think you have a real leak looking at the pictures and 600 to 1000 miles per ltr Oil is normal for a Turbo Car depending on driving style.

If there is no dripping, no stains on your drive, no hot oil smells from the car then just clean up the areas. Drive the car. Enjoy the car. Check it often and stop worrying.

Let us all know how long it takes for the Oily patch to return after you clean it. It would seem allot of our 996tt have a similar issue( if it is an issue).

Keep posting your findings. If it is going to be problem is would be nice for us all to know whats in store for the future. :)

Frank.

Yes I have had the same problem. Mine would drop when driving, when locking or even just walking away form the car. Started after a long spell of bad weather. Porsche Glasgow diagnosed faulty alarm module, damp in connectors.Replaced unit.

Frank

Hi MZ3PO, I have the same problem as you and have a post out as well so I will be following your with interest. Try reading my post . 996tt Low voltage reading on Gauge .I am at the stage of removing my alternator, but I dont really want to unless I have some more info to work on. It could be something else. I do suspect a diode pack but we will see.

PM me if you wish and we can confer notes. This is really PI$$!NG me off to be honest after all the other problems I have had.

Touch base with me it might help us both.

Frank

anybody else want to share notes feel free.

Engine not running: I have measured from the positive connector post next to the alternator to the engine, chassis and using jumpers to the neg terminal of the battery and compared it to the pos /neg terminal on the battery and only 0.4 volt difference. There is one lead from that post going to the alternator another to the starter and rest of car and a thinner one as yet I have no idea where it leads too. But if there was corrosion on any connector up to the starter , with the current it requires I would have thought I would have starting issues.If there was a connector lead problem from the starter to the post I would have thought the battery voltage would differ from the post voltage. So the only lead/cable not checked is the one to the alternator.

Engine running: Post voltage is 0.4 volts more than voltage measured at the battery. 11.4 and 11.0 . So either the alternator isn't pushing out the full 12v or the connector form the post to the alternator is duff.

From what I can see it doesn't look too bad but viz is not that good. So it will have to be alternator off.

Also using jumpers checked earth continuity to engine/chassis and battery all ok :(

If it is the diode pack alls well and good but who knows.

Thanks for the advice.

This morning I started the car and it was about 13volts by the time I had driven 5 miles it was down to about 11.5 :cursing: :confused:

There must be some juice as when I put everything that can be put on the voltage drops when the iggnition is off but will not go over 11.5 volts no matter what..... :(

Hi all,

Could anybody describe what the symptoms are of alternator failure. I dont have a warning light but the voltage output is down to 11 volts.

Is this the alternator? How many of you out there have had this problem.

Any advise /info greatly appreciated.

Frank