ringnalda

Yes I do still have this.  Please email me as I do not check the web responses that often...

I do have a complete set, which is the ECU, the kessy, the ignition lock, the steering lock still attached to the steering column and the key for a 2004 Cayenne S if someone is in need of getting going immediately.  Email me at mrcbx@att.net if you need this, it will be cheaper than the dealer alternative, but please note this is for the V8 non-turbo only.

On 1/8/2018 at 7:18 PM, nvichie said:

Just a follow up: I'd like to thank Ringnalda and Petah for pointing me in the direction of Speedometer Solutions and avoiding the dealership. Tom runs this place and I'll give him 5/5 Stars. If anyone has code 2288 "steering faulty" in red, then I highly recommend reaching out to Tom at Speedometer Solutions. He will save you the headache of going to the dealership and them milking your wallet. I was very fortunate that Tom was local to me here in the suburbs of Chicago, IL and it was brutally cold here. Subzero temperatures and he came out to my garage to help dismantle the Kessy module and the steering column lock module. It was a team effort as we both tackled the job. You will need good tools to maneuver in tight spaces. Torx 20 and 15 are common.  Keep in mind that just clearing the code will not solve the problem. Once the system goes through a full cycle, the steering faulty code will reappear and who knows where your car will be parked? Tom guarantees his work for the lifetime of the product, so that makes it reassuring.  I'd say it took a good 2 hours of removing everything for us. However it was my first time so if you're handy, you'll probably be a lot faster. If anyone has this problem, save yourself the money and avoid the dealership. Happy New Year everyone. My 2004 Cayenne Turbo has 95,000 miles and still going strong. (crossing fingers)

 

You're welcome sorry I did not see your reply.  Did you remove just the lock or did you have to remove the column assembly?  Glad you had Tom as a local to help you!

This is going to become a more and more common problem as the components used in this circuitry get older.  It is basically the same in the Audi A8, the VW Touareg and the Cayenne.

The official Porsche solution is to buy a new steering column, which including removal costs, replacement and recoding will run around $4000.  There are some alternatives.  Tom at Speedometer solutions in Chicago is very capable of fixing the actual problem, but you will need to send him the steering lock module (not too bad to remove but not for the feint of heart) as well as the kessy module and a functional key.  The total cost for this depends on whether the lock was active or not, which decides if you can get the lock off with everything in place, or if you have to remove the steering column to get it removed.   I would say removal costs will be around $250 or so.  Tom charges $399 to repair the module and GUARANTEES his work.

The last alternative is to get all the necessary parts from a junkyard, but you will need the lock from the steering column, the kessy as well as the keys.  You will then use all of the new electronics, and switch the blade from your old key.  I have no idea what you could get such a set for but it will all need to be matching.  Once these things are programmed, there is NO reprogramming.

I have just gone through this, and my car is back on the road after spending less than $500.  Sucks but better than $4k...

The message "Switch selector lever to P" is only displayed when you try to remove the key when the selector is not in the P position.  So I do not believe the error showing up while driving to be associated with the transmission, as all that is in the position it is expecting.  For some reason the ignition switch is detecting a trigger to remove the key, could it simply be an ignition switch fault?  Yes you can hear relays clicking when the error shows up during driving, but again this could be normal for when you try to remove the key or try and turn it off.  Has anybody changed the ignition switch to see if that fixes the problem?  The switch is $200 or so and seems easy enough to replace, does it need to be programmed to the key transponder or to the car?

That is a great solution, mine also didn't have a switched supply so I connected it up and now it all works.  Had to replace a 'redneck repair' I guess PO installed kitchen cupboards...?  So bought the coplete thing from ebay with the homelink stuff and fitted it into the cayenne.  Had to paint the unit but all in all 2 hr's work and I can delete the remotes from the sunvisor.  Thanks for the wiring tip it worked out great!!!

Problem Resolved: See this thread.To fix it, I cut about 2 inches of some rubber hose and slipped it over the cracked plastic hose for a tight sqeeze. If I recall it was 1/2" hose. I then put a hose clamp on it and wrapped it with electrical tape.After I found this cracked hose and applied the fix, my Faulty Brake Booster light still came on. I spent another 30 minutes looking around for more cracks and possible problems before I gave up. THEN I took the car for a drive around the block and the error message went away.Very Important: If you have this problem and fix the cracked tube, take your car for a drive!!! Don't waste your time expecting the error message to go away without driving your car around like I did.

Or reset the code with PIWIS...

Same 'brake booster faulty' warning, was quoted $1500 for new brake booster: "Yes Sir, we checked and even smoke tested the vacuum line..." Went home, found the crack in the line and replaced it for $120 with a new vacuum line from Porsche. Happy Days. Time to find new mechanic...

Jan

Can someone tell me the part number for the clips that hold the covers in place under the hood? P.O. must have lost 3 and I dropped 1 more yesterday... Clips & Fasteners don't seem to carry them...

Thanks, Jan