motolz

Last night I replaced the Rear Diff seal for the output flange.  I would say that changing this was a 'moderate' job.  The seal was about 40 dollars. Time about 2hrs.  Key tools were

1) ball head hex wrenches to remove the axle from the diff,

2) 32mm socket to remove the axle bolt (may not be necessary)

3) Air hammer to free the axle shaft after it was separated from the diff (may not have needed this)

4) Impact wrenches (just to speed things up)

5) A seal setting tool

6) New seal W0133-1934070

Unfortunately I did not take pictures so these steps may not be exact but will get you there.

1. Remove the drivers rear wheel.
2. Using the ball head hex wrenches remove the hex bolts holding the axle to the diff (#20 in suspension diagrams)
3. You will now be able to slide the axle away from the diff.  It is a tight space. We found that moving it to the lower left gave the most space
4. Now you can see the assembly behind the axle this is held in place by a single allen bolt
5. Remove the allen bolt.
6. It is likely you will not be able to pull the plate because the axle is in the way.
7. Here we had to remove the 2 upper control arm bolts (#10 in control arm diagams).  This allowed us to lower rear assembly without removing it.
8. Here we used the air hammer to loosen the axle from the rotor assembly but this may not have been necessary it just gave us more play to work with when trying to move the axle out of the way.  The expectation is that this should not affect alignment since capser and camber are on the lowery control arms, but we will see.
9. With the axle positioned out of the way, remove the plate from the diff
10. You will see a seal in the diff, you will need to pop this out. It is held in by a tension spring around the inner seal
11. Place the new seal and using a seal tool or other, put it in place and make sure the inner spring has engaged to seat it.  (it may be worth buying 2 seals incase you pop the spring on the first)
12. Once in place reverse steps from above
13. Fill diff fluid
14. Take her for a spin, park your baby, put some cardboard under her belly and check for leaks.

Really the most difficult parts were

1. Since the wheel assembly was not removed,  the axel could not be removed so finding space to offset it to remove the diff plate
2. Seating the seal – Just due to being over cautious.

porsche rear diff plug pic.jpgporsche rear diff plug close up.jpg

 

Here are a few pictures.

Hey guys, I changed the diff fluid in my 99 tip. It was really pretty easy. I purchased a suction tool at Autozone and a quart of Royal Purple 75w90. I put her up and pulled the left rear tire off. I think the hex was a 8mm short. Pulled the drain/check bolt and sucked out as much fluid as I could then I pumped fluid untill it was at the same level as before-even with the drain.

I spent a lot of time letting the fluid settle to make sure it was full. easy job.

I did mine today and it was easy, but while before I had a slow drip, now I have a relatively major leak.  Did  you experience any leaks due to possible overfilling?  I filled mine to .9l when it started coming out of the hole.

I just did mine, was not a problem with the drivers rear wheel removed.  One thing that I did notice is that the attached pdf states to use transmission oil.  All I have read says to use gear oil.  I used

Royal Purple Max Gear 75w90

Joe, this is the same thing that I am experiencing on my 1999  996 tip.

I had some drips so I replaced my transgasket.  Now I notice my diff is leaking.

I drained the oil and got about .5l out.  Then I filled it with .9l  Right at about .8l it started coming out the fill hole. I took it for spin and came home and the leak is bigger than ever.  my questions to the group (and Joe)

1) is it possible I overfilled it and it is the excess that is causing such a big leak now?

2) I pulled the wheel and it looks like there is seapage where the axel meeets the diff as the oil is pooling on the fins below the axel but not on top.

The timing of Joes post couldn't be better as I just came out to post the same question!

Thanks all, and Joe, let me know what you come up with.  I did find one article where the guy said it took no time to replace the seal, but there was no diy.

Tom

I had the same problem. The cause was the neg batter terminal was not fully tight. After tightening it up, she cranks like a champ! Hope this helps someone with the same intermittent starting issue!

I wanted to post an update to my issue

I took my girl to my mechanic who was a bit perplexed since the O2 Sensors on bank 1 were getting juice but bank 2 was not, so he was able to rule out the DME since there is a single wire that splits into 2 from the DME to the O2 sensors...

He had to practically tear out the interior to get into the wiring harness and low and behold...about 6 inches were missing from 4 wires basically behind the back drivers side seat. It seems a mouse or something crawled up there and wanted a German nest!!

Lucky for me, my comprehensive insurance covered the 2100.00 tab less the deductible.

This weekend, I am going shopping for a cat!!

Good driving to all!

After Further research, I came across a Fuel System Relay Part# 141-951-253-B-M5206 (Multi-Function Relay (DME)). Does anyone think that the solution could be as simple as a $6.00 part?? I am ..obviously...willing to give this a shot if there is that possiblity.

Thanks! That confirms everything I read...Time to put my tail between my legs and take her to the ER. I appreciate the feedback!

P1121

P0160

P1117

1999 996

I don't think there is an easy answer to this but I figure I would try before admitting defeat and taking my girl into the doctor. I recently had my CEL come on and it was throwing an MAF code along with a P0160. Since I sprayed out my MAF about a year ago, I decided to replace it, and got the above codes. I replaced my bank 2 post cat sensor, which was on the topside of the exhaust on the drivers side (pipes cross in the back)...let me tell you it was tough to get out, even with an 02 tool. But I got it and replaced it with a a Bosch O2 sensor, same number and all. Cleard the codes and still I get the same. Also, I can nearly watch my fuel gague moving, I burned about 1/3 tank on a 40 mile trip... (I know we can all do that when we try, but this time I wasn't trying, I was driving sensible!!)

From all of the reading I have done, this seems to be an electrical issue. I am not very well versed in ohms, volts and amps I am afraid. Am I at the end of my DIY path on this one? Any suggestions...is it possible the new 02 sensor is bad? It was bought from Pelican.

Thanks in advance for all of the help!

T

Great! thanks for your help!

Thanks. Does this mean that I need to buy 1 post cat O2 sensor? Are there 1 or 2 catlytic converters? Sorry if this is a dumb question! I just havn't been able to find anything about replacment for a 996.

Thanks again for the help!!

My bad, I meant Carrera!! I don't know why I put tt in there, I think I was dreaming!!

The code is P0160

Porsche fault code 20 - O2 sensor behind CAT.conv.

Bank 2

And a p1121

I also had an MAF code and changed out the MAF but the two above came back.

I appreciate your help!!

Is that just one that needs replaced?

I need to replace the O2 sensor on my 1999 996 TT. Two questions

1) Is there one or 2 post cat O2 sensors on the car? (are there two cats?)

2) any info on the replacement? I searched and can't seem to find any details. do I need to put it on a lift or can I get to it with jackstands. Any hints or tricks?

Thanks all. I appreciate the great feedback.

Thanks for the input! This helps.

I need some advice.

I have a 1999 996 with a 2001 engine. I need to replace my MAF, but not sure how to tell if I have and e-gas or not. Does anyone know how to make the distinction?

Thanks in advance!!